Car tyre rotation?

**FJRider** · 10th July 2011, 18:05

Originally Posted by Wannabiker

A lot of modern tyres are now directional, meaning you cannot rotate them like "in the old days" (diagonally front to rear). Care must be taken by the tyre shop to fit the tyre to the rim in the correct orientation and side, so the tread runs in the right direction. Front to rear is now the best you can do.

Wheel alighnment is easier and cheaper nowdays ... so tyre rotation is not so important ...

**Kickaha** · 10th July 2011, 18:47

Originally Posted by Wannabiker

Cars with Tyre pressure sensors (Peugot) do not like having only one tyre replaced, as the different circumference sets off the low pressure sensors.

That could only happen with the ones that work off the ABS , if it has sensors in the wheel it makes no difference

Originally Posted by FJRider

Wheel alignment is easier and cheaper nowdays ... so tyre rotation is not so important ...

Rotation is still important for even wear, front's tend to wear the shoulders more, rears generally wear flatter

**scumdog** · 10th July 2011, 18:56

Originally Posted by Kickaha

Rotation is still important for even wear, front's tend to wear the shoulders more, rears generally wear flatter

Yep, noticed that sort of wear, often wondered if swapping wheels around would be a 'Good Thing' (tm)

Of course the F100 will look funny with 12" X 15" rims on the front...

**p.dath** · 10th July 2011, 19:46

We have a front wheel drive, and the front tyres wear much faster than the rear tyres. So I like to have the tyres rotated front to back each service.

**DrunkenMistake** · 10th July 2011, 19:57

Originally Posted by Wannabiker

A lot of modern tyres are now directional, meaning you cannot rotate them like "in the old days" .

Uhhhhhh Now I see,

I knew about Directional tyres as I have them and always have had them,
Was kinda like how the fuck to you rotate motorbike tyres lmao

**warewolf** · 10th July 2011, 20:16

Originally Posted by Kickaha

Most tyre manufacturers recommend placing the tyres with the best grip and cornering power - new tyres - at the rear, whether the car is front or rear wheel drive. Fitting new tyres to the front can result in oversteer and loss of control.

As opposed to resulting in understeer and loss of control? I don't reckon I could save a major understeer event, but habitually cope with oversteer. I always thought it was better to have the best grip on your brake and steer axle??

As to rotation, that's what we did with our Isuzu Wizard. I did a bit of research and there was as much evidence for swapping sides as there was warnings against it. Bought 5 new tyres when we got it, figured they'd last ~50-60,000km, so rotated the tyres (including the spare) every 10,000km, that is, before any nasty uneven wear set in or the tread depths varied too much. Figured the best value was to wear them all down evenly, and with the spare included we'd always have a good spare. By the third change the tyres were all still uniform in depth and wear pattern. Virtually every vehicle we checked when shopping for ours, had uneven tyre wear.

The tyres that were on it when we bought it - well, there were 3 different types with wildly different tread depths. Not what you want on a 4x4. They were also a JDM-only size, so they went on trademe to some lucky bidder.

**Kickaha** · 10th July 2011, 20:50

Originally Posted by warewolf

As opposed to resulting in understeer and loss of control? I don't reckon I could save a major understeer event, but habitually cope with oversteer. I always thought it was better to have the best grip on your brake and steer axle??

Theory goes that if the front loses traction most peoples reaction is to lift the throttle which normally lets the vehicle regain grip

Where as most people don't have a clue how to recover from loosing the back

Originally Posted by warewolf

As to rotation, that's what we did with our Isuzu Wizard. I did a bit of research and there was as much evidence for swapping sides as there was warnings against it. Bought 5 new tyres when we got it, figured they'd last ~50-60,000km, so rotated the tyres (including the spare) every 10,000km, that is, before any nasty uneven wear set in or the tread depths varied too much. Figured the best value was to wear them all down evenly, and with the spare included we'd always have a good spare. By the third change the tyres were all still uniform in depth and wear pattern. Virtually every vehicle we checked when shopping for ours, had uneven tyre wear.

Probably more important to do on 4WD than on most cars as 4WD get funny wear patterns if they're left on the front leading to vibration and noise problems although that does happen with FWD cars on the rear as well

**Motu** · 10th July 2011, 22:40

Nearly all modern vehicles (less than 20 years old) are designed around frontal impact - they want it going straight ahead in a loss of traction situation,as the occupants are much more likely to survive. Going into a spin means a side,rear or roll over,all of which lead to more injury. Vehicle manufacturers,tyre manufacturers and law enforcement agencies all want the best tyres to the rear - it's all about the blame game.

From a service point of view I always put the best tyres on the drive axle,it's about the customer getting the best wear out of their tyres.

**driftn** · 11th July 2011, 15:51

Originally Posted by Wannabiker

A lot of modern tyres are now directional, meaning you cannot rotate them like "in the old days" (diagonally front to rear)..

You will find, most tyre manufactures are moving away from directional and to assymetric, as they found its better to put the water into a channel and push it out rather than try pumping it out the side. Which in turn means they can also be rotated correctly.

I have found that the biggest killer of tyres is under inflation. people just dont check them often enough now days.

Should at least have your tyres checked by proffesionals every 5k and align every 10. Lukes rant done

**awa355** · 11th July 2011, 16:09

Originally Posted by driftn

You will find, most tyre manufactures are moving away from directional and to assymetric, as they found its better to put the water into a channel and push it out rather than try pumping it out the side. Which in turn means they can also be rotated correctly.

I have found that the biggest killer of tyres is under inflation. people just dont check them often enough now days.

Should at least have your tyres checked by proffesionals every 5k and align every 10. Lukes rant done

I agree about checking pressures more often.

Have to admitt, useing my 'eyecrometer,, I measure the height of each tyre from the ground to the rim as I walk up to the car. ( look the same, must be the same)

As for 'professionals' checking pressures for me, my steel toe cap does a better job than some of the kids employed in the local tyreshop.

**Crasherfromwayback** · 11th July 2011, 16:26

Originally Posted by DrunkenMistake

Im trying to work out what bike has the same tyre sizes front and back ?

HD's. Certain years FLSTF, FLSTC, FLHR etc etc...

**Wannabiker** · 11th July 2011, 17:16

Perhaps I should have said orientation specific. The tyres recommended for my SV8 had chunkier tread on the inside to counter the wear form the negative camber on the independent rear. These tyres are fitted with an "inside" and "outside" so must be fitted to the rim correct way round, though non directional tread. (meaning they could be swapped from side-to-side)
I managed to keep the tyre wear even by occasionally "tru-ing them up" by turning the traction control off for a while.

Wife has directional tread on her Peugot. Tyres / wheels can only be moved front-to back on the same side.