Yea not sure how to approach it for now, I dont want to break off whats left and have bit stuck inside. The parts is avail for sale individually, the little outlet pipe.. so leads me to believe it must come out. But its probably well rusted in there on mine.
Will consider putting a thin sleeve inside it, not a bad idea. Would have to keep an eye on temps I guess.
And yea, gotta check the pistons and valves all the time eh, easy enough to get to. Got my valves out and cylinders off at the moment, I think they look ok. Will get some advice from someone that knows more, pistons are shagged so new ones n rings etc going in..
Yes spigot is easy. Grip it in your vice, and then tap the barrel with a soft faced hammer. It'll come out with not much effort. Replacement is easy enough, TTW has them, or your local Suzuki dealer (they're really good to deal with on RGVs IME). When you crush it in the vice, it'll pull most of it away from the wall, so then there's bugger all holding it in, which is why they're pretty easy to get out.
Valves aren't much of a headache, just check the roll pins on the middle blade are tight. They should also be a dual roll pin, the singles fail. Arm screw is a 3mm hex IIRC, just hit it with a torch, it'll come out. All those parts are readily available too and quite cheap.
Top end rebuild kits are cheap, just make sure you use OEM parts and not the pattern rubbish from trademe.
Awesome, cheers man. Will give that a go on the spigot soon. Yea I been surfing on TTW, i might see if there is a suzuki dealer down here in dunners and get some prices but TTW is cheap enough eh.
I have the cylinders off now and looking at the valves while I replace the pistons which are shagged. Pretty sure I have the mentioned cheaper pattern pistons off ebay.. I'll put pic up soon. Should I flag them and get real suzuki bits?
Should I be looking at the powervalves while they are still all in the cylinder and just slide them up and down from full open to closed and look for what?
I already wrecked that 3mm hex so having to drill it out now and replace shaft and little arm.. dunno why it was stuck in there so bad aye. had penetrating oil, little impact driver and good snap on hex bit that wasnt shagged.. but yea it went pear shaped quickly. Easy outs etc wouldnt get it out either
Here's some I prepared earlier.
This is what imdying is warning you about...don't let them get this far.If there is even a hint of play they will quickly be toast (these were just nipping the piston)
Also look for ovalling of the holes in the PV caps,if there is any then best bet will be replacement.
cheers bro! ok so I have both my cylinders out and have both valve assemblies loose and ready to pull out.. again im not exactly sure what sort of play i am looking for.. should I check for play of the entire valve set up (3 blades together)when its in the cylinder, or should I take them out and check for play between the blades..
I noticed while the bike was still together and running that there was a bit of play in the pulley/shaft and cables that opens and closes the valves.
but yea basically gotta confirm if the valves are OK or need of repair and then I can put it all back together and ride!
will pull em out and take some photos too.
the pistons i pulled out where pretty munted, wonder if they were contacting with the valves but the blade tips look pretty clean at a glance while they are still in the cyl with the cyl off the bike/engine
Check the pulleys. The tang that sticks out towards the cylinder, and meets the other tang in the over limit spring, wears. You could build them up with weld, but new pulleys are cheap and easy to get from Suzuki. Of course there's a few other place that cause slop too, but those are worth checking.
If you're keeping it and you don't have twin roll pin valves (93-), either fit billet valves, or toss the centres and fit billet centres to the original valves. Problem solved.
All Aprilia RS250s come with the same VJ22 engine. They're for the most part the same as the Suzuki engine, there's a mostly trivial change to the heads, pipes, minor jetting change, and a different SAPC, which for the most part is a reprofile of the PV curve (start point shifted 500~rpm). The valve type will be obvious after a visual inspection; it's either a 5mm roll pin with a smaller roll pin up the guts, or it's not. Don't disassemble the valve blades stoned, it's like a Chinese finger puzzle the first time.
when installing new pistons, arrow on piston top should be pointing to the exhaust right?
italian manual is tricky to follow at times. but general google said arrow point to exhaust
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