Looking for a 2 stroke expert in Dunedin

[eelracing]

when installing new pistons, arrow on piston top should be pointing to the exhaust right?

That is correct.

[F5 Dave]

um. . .so where are the missing bits?

I'd at a min be flushing the bottom end out which means kero fill it & turn it upside down correct kero strain through a hankie, do again. Fresh kero. repeat, rotate crank, flush repeat. I've just done this with a race bike & must have repeated 20 times & was still getting specs of ally.

[Fast Eddie]

um. . .so where are the missing bits?

Very good question man.. The crankcase is still in the bike frame, I didnt really want to take it out but guess I'll have to to flush it out. unsure where the bits of the piston have gone.. bike was running when I got it and I rode it around a wee bit before deciding to pull it apart haha..

mmmmmm, couldnt see any bits by eye at the moment got the flash light pointing around in there.

I had the idea that some dodgy cunt had the pistons fail on him, pulled the cylinders off, fished the broken bits out and then just put it back together with the rooted pistons.. I thought if those bits of metal were floating around in the crank they would have lunched the whole thing and made a mess but just from looking down from the top its all smooth and shiny doesnt look like any damage. Even the cylinders themselves are OK and wont bother replating them this time around.

[Fast Eddie]

I'd at a min be flushing the bottom end out which means kero fill it & turn it upside down correct kero strain through a hankie, do again. Fresh kero. repeat, rotate crank, flush repeat. I've just done this with a race bike & must have repeated 20 times & was still getting specs of ally.

cheers for the directions, guess the crankcase/engine will have to come out of the frame for this.. damn it.

didnt quite catch this bit "..correct kero strain through a hankie" what did you mean correct kero?

cheer for the help!

[F5 Dave]

Solly I must be channelling my previously unknown inner asian. I meant Collect the kero in a bowl & strain it to remove ally dust & flush again.

Yes I did wonder about the piston being broken, maybe even by inattention while apart & turning the engine over. but I'd be flushing it like crazy. $15 of kero & some effort is worth it. Only laziness would prevent me doing what should be done, which is complete bottom end strip. just a little bit of debris could jam a roller & stop it spinning just for a second & it would get a flat & never roll again with quick consequences thereafter.

[Fast Eddie]

Solly I must be channelling my previously unknown inner asian. I meant Collect the kero in a bowl & strain it to remove ally dust & flush again.

Yes I did wonder about the piston being broken, maybe even by inattention while apart & turning the engine over. but I'd be flushing it like crazy. $15 of kero & some effort is worth it. Only laziness would prevent me doing what should be done, which is complete bottom end strip. just a little bit of debris could jam a roller & stop it spinning just for a second & it would get a flat & never roll again with quick consequences thereafter.

good point.

sigh, more work then before I can ride it haha.. was keen to put it back together and go for a burn. Its my first time stripping a 2 stroke down so its a learning curve and the italian manual with rough english translation sometimes, which is photocopied is hard to follow sometimes but should be alright.

[imdying]

italian manual is tricky to follow at times. but general google said arrow point to exhaust

Don't, follow the RGV one.

[Fast Eddie]

I should use the RGV manual instead?

might see if its avail online, I got given the aprilia one so was just sort of going by it.. not really. I'm looking to pull the crankcase/bottom out of the frame with minimal unhooking of cables and hoses and electrics at the moment. think I see a way

[imdying]

I should use the RGV manual instead?

might see if its avail online, I got given the aprilia one so was just sort of going by it.. not really. I'm looking to pull the crankcase/bottom out of the frame with minimal unhooking of cables and hoses and electrics at the moment. think I see a way

I can send them to you if you require. You'll want the base VJ21, plus the two VJ22 supplementaries. Might as well rip off the kit manual whilst you're there. I would recommend removing all of the cables and hoses, check the hoses for perishing and/or blockages, and check the cables for fraying and/or bends that have kinked the outer cable, and/or kinks where they meet the adjusters. If you have trouble sourcing cables (you should not), I can either repair them for you, or I can recommend somebody in Southland who fixes them (pretty sure I could find someone, or try at least). The RS is typically race bred two stroke; it relies on every aspect of its operation being 'sorted'. You need to double check things like the plastic nuts that screw into the carbs where the choke cable is. If they're broken, the carbs will ingest air there which will run it lean, and that has cost people new top ends. If you've laid tips on all the bits, you'll have peace of mind if nothing else. The electrics should be neither here nor there; I've completely rewired my RGV and there's maybe 50 wires in the whole bike, and most of those go to the SAPC. Assuming the Italians have two brain cells to rub together, there shouldn't be any connectors that you can plug into the wrong place!

Can't go wrong mate, just take your time and enjoy yourself. You can get flywheel pullers and flywheel holders from eBay, so there really isn't anything short of reconditioning the crank you can't achieve at home. If you've a bit of spare coin, Sean has a complete 300 kit for sale at the moment. I kinda have my eyes on it... might buy it for a winter project if nobody snatches it up.

[Fast Eddie]

I can send them to you if you require. You'll want the base VJ21, plus the two VJ22 supplementaries. Might as well rip off the kit manual whilst you're there. I would recommend removing all of the cables and hoses, check the hoses for perishing and/or blockages, and check the cables for fraying and/or bends that have kinked the outer cable, and/or kinks where they meet the adjusters. If you have trouble sourcing cables (you should not), I can either repair them for you, or I can recommend somebody in Southland who fixes them (pretty sure I could find someone, or try at least). The RS is typically race bred two stroke; it relies on every aspect of its operation being 'sorted'. You need to double check things like the plastic nuts that screw into the carbs where the choke cable is. If they're broken, the carbs will ingest air there which will run it lean, and that has cost people new top ends. If you've laid tips on all the bits, you'll have peace of mind if nothing else. The electrics should be neither here nor there; I've completely rewired my RGV and there's maybe 50 wires in the whole bike, and most of those go to the SAPC. Assuming the Italians have two brain cells to rub together, there shouldn't be any connectors that you can plug into the wrong place!

Can't go wrong mate, just take your time and enjoy yourself. You can get flywheel pullers and flywheel holders from eBay, so there really isn't anything short of reconditioning the crank you can't achieve at home. If you've a bit of spare coin, Sean has a complete 300 kit for sale at the moment. I kinda have my eyes on it... might buy it for a winter project if nobody snatches it up.

haha, I have been eyeing up the 300 kits on The Tuning Works.co.uk eh. but I'll get the original engine sorted first!

I have seen there is some choke cable damage on bottom cylinders carb, someones done some sort of tie wire arrangement on it :S

Yea, the stripping will continue, might as well get it well sorted and tidy. Have already bought all new power valve cables ex somewhere in asia, they look ok. havent fitted yet. so that will cover the servo to each powervalve pulley. Throttle cable looks ok and the cables from the multi box look ok. Apparently you cant open that multibox up? so replacing cables would seem tricky. but will look at them closely.

Will do as you suggest she will be getting a full strip and reassembly then. It is fun most of the time, I'v had a few screws now that I have not been able to get undone. Thats the most fustrating bit as I then have to take the part to an engineers shop and hope they can help me out. So far so good.

Cheers again for the advice and guidance, will follow it and carry on stripping down. Low on funds as a uni student but I have some good tools I'v collected over the years.

if you have time to send any manuals or info that would be great, email is kma167@uclive.ac.nz

much appreciated aye.

[Fast Eddie]

Sean has a complete 300 kit for sale at the moment. I kinda have my eyes on it... might buy it for a winter project if nobody snatches it up.

ya wouldnt know what he wants $$ wise for it do you? haha.. Cause one ex UK will set ya back a few pound.

[imdying]

Apparently you cant open that multibox up?

I have not seen one in person, but given that the cross brace it mounts to is eerily similar to the RGV one, I expect the multi box is near the same also (we are talking about the one with the TPS right?) If so, there is a small catch that will be evident if you squeeze the sides together. It's little more than the way they've shapped the plastic, and isn't held by very much force, as it utilised that metal piece that goes across the top of it (secured by the two self tappers) to retain it. Steady as she goes, you should encounter nothing that requires much force.

[Fast Eddie]

I have not seen one in person, but given that the cross brace it mounts to is eerily similar to the RGV one, I expect the multi box is near the same also (we are talking about the one with the TPS right?) If so, there is a small catch that will be evident if you squeeze the sides together. It's little more than the way they've shapped the plastic, and isn't held by very much force, as it utilised that metal piece that goes across the top of it (secured by the two self tappers) to retain it. Steady as she goes, you should encounter nothing that requires much force.

mint, yea id say it is the same unit as suzuki.. the throttle cable goes to that and then the lines to both carbs the oil pump and the p/valve servo goes off from there.

It was more my manual i have saying "dont open box as it is specially calibrated during manufacture"

anyway, one thing at a time, getting the bottom end out of the frame and checkin thru wires/lines etc.. its like tangled string shit everywhere. Good chance to tidy it up a bit maybe

[Fast Eddie]

Got your email with the manuals imdying, much appreciated aye you've been very helpful - will prob be bugging you in the near future and the rebuild progresses.

much appreciated mate, buy that man a beer (someone else, not me im broke)

[Kickaha]

It was more my manual i have saying "dont open box as it is specially calibrated during manufacture"

Prise it open with a screwdriver, what would the manufacturers know about it