NSR FXR, the new No45

[richban]

Well Its been all sitting around for some time. Today I actually started a proper to do list so I thought a would start a new tread coz that will keep me motivated to finish this bike as quick as I can. End result should be a good looking lightish good handling bike.

TA-DO

1. Get the wheels mounted. Have nice new 15mm axels for the RS wheels just need to make spin up some spacers.
2. Get the engine in. I have been mulling over the best way to mount the thing forever. At the moment I am thinking to copy the FXR position exactly. All measurements taken from the bike setup with know static sage. On the FXR the out put shaft is 100mm from the swing arm pivot. Also if you draw a line from the centre of the rear axle to centre of the swing arm pivot and onto the output shaft the output shaft is about 15mm lower than the centre line. Don't want no weird squat problems. Will soon see.
3. Make some rear sets.
4. Make new sub frame and sort the rider position. I really want to make sure that this is correct.
5. Suspension. Rear I have an NSR SP shock in really good condition and front are some nice MC28 forks. I will put emulators in the front and see what the rear is like when I can sit on it ride it. There is lots of setup info on the British NSR site. I am hoping its not under sprung but it could well be.

Lots of other little things bolts and bits but all easy to sort. Really looking forward to getting it all done and racing.

[mossy1200]

If the stock nsr shock is 285mm and same as the mc14 and mc17 then a 2010 r6 290mm shock with all the adjustments bolts straight in unless you dont have much room at the top.

[richban]

If the stock nsr shock is 285mm and same as the mc14 and mc17 then a 2010 r6 290mm shock with all the adjustments bolts straight in unless you dont have much room at the top.

The SP/SE shocks do ok from all accounts. They have a little rebound and compression adjustment. Also eyelet both ends so different form the MC17/18.

[koba]

The SP/SE shocks do ok from all accounts. They have a little rebound and compression adjustment. Also eyelet both ends so different form the MC17/18.

Other years of R6 have eyelet each end. Will send you some research if you want, just hassle me for it.

[mossy1200]

Other years of R6 have eyelet each end. Will send you some research if you want, just hassle me for it.

pre 09 are eye to eye

[koba]

pre 09 are eye to eye

Plus the latest ones (from memory).
I'll dig out the info I've compiled tomorrow and post the details, if I get around to it.

[richban]

Other years of R6 have eyelet each end. Will send you some research if you want, just hassle me for it.

Cheers Mate Yeah flick it through. People have put GSXR forks on these as well but I am sure they will weigh more. What I really need are some rear sets to copy. I don't got none.

Some inspiration. Just imagine them with no exhaust pipes and a shorter RS seat.




I am going to paint it white with the same sort of stripe as the blue bike but with orange centre stripe and blue outside stripes. Not sure on wheel colour might leave them white.

[richban]

pre 09 are eye to eye

Question is though is a big fat R6 shock going to be better than a MC28 SP shock? My thoughts are maybe after it is re sprung / valved. If the SP shock is pants I will spend some serious cash on a proper shock.

[koba]

Cheers Mate Yeah flick it through. People have put GSXR forks on these as well but I am sure they will weigh more. What I really need are some rear sets to copy. I don't got none.

Some inspiration. Just imagine them with no exhaust pipes and a shorter RS seat.




I am going to paint it white with the same sort of stripe as the blue bike but with orange centre stripe and blue outside stripes. Not sure on wheel colour might leave them white.

I can't help too much on the rear-sets as mine is likely to be quite different (MC18). Still if you think it will help you are welcome to have a gander at mine.

White wheels are cool if you can keep them clean. Good smooth finish (not like my VFR) helps with that.

I'm convinced mine would handle better with the weight further forward. Go at least as far forward as the longest chain available will let you. The FXR engine has a bit more meat in the top than mine so that should help.

[koba]

Question is though is a big fat R6 shock going to be better than a MC28 SP shock? My thoughts are maybe after it is re sprung / valved. If the SP shock is pants I will spend some serious cash on a proper shock.

I'd say wear will play a huge part in it. A rooted shock off anything is crap.

[mossy1200]

Question is though is a big fat R6 shock going to be better than a MC28 SP shock? My thoughts are maybe after it is re sprung / valved. If the SP shock is pants I will spend some serious cash on a proper shock.

Hard to tell. I got lucky and had 15mm static sag on min spring setting and 10mm on 3/4 adjusted. It was just luck on the 3 way arm and dog bones. I was expecting to have at least a spring replacement.

[richban]

I'd say wear will play a huge part in it. A rooted shock off anything is crap.

Yeah true. The guy I got it off reckons it was mint. Looks mint. We will see.

[richban]

Yeah true. The guy I got it off reckons it was mint. Looks mint. We will see.

Just did a spring rate calculation on the race tech site and the good news is both front and rear springs appear to be bang on. If the bike weighed in at its normal 127 odd kg they would have been off. Handy site. R6 shock spring is way heaver.

Anyway need to get the emulators in and front forks all dialed.

[F5 Dave]

Ohh, look at those fantastic 2 stroke engines. Are you sure you want to defile that quality piece of kit with a diesel plodder?

Use plywood & make up some rear sets until you are happy. Then, if you are keen make them out of metal.

Find an adult who can use scissors, actually make that a band saw, & hack close to what you need. I like to use 12mm plate & mill the crap out of it. Maybe not pretty but strong & light.

[richban]

Ohh, look at those fantastic 2 stroke engines. Are you sure you want to defile that quality piece of kit with a diesel plodder?

Use plywood & make up some rear sets until you are happy. Then, if you are keen make them out of metal.

Find an adult who can use scissors, actually make that a band saw, & hack close to what you need. I like to use 12mm plate & mill the crap out of it. Maybe not pretty but strong & light.

Yes it is a shame to put a dirty diesel instead of a 2 banger. But take some heart in the fact that the engine will rev hi, make all its power at the top and generally be harder to ride fast.

Yes Ply. I am just lazy and like starting from Standard settings.