regarding the wheels.
if you go with 14 inch steelies, youll save coin in the long run. TWL on teviot street sell trailer wheels, steel rims with second hand tyres (but with lots of meat) for less than you would get just a retread from a tyre shop.
thats where i used to get them when i built trailers.
If ya go with a stepped axle (easy enough to make) then you free up the wheels and tyres....I'd run 17's with something like a 235/45 or something similar. Good load rating as you're starting to push it at near a ton and only 2 tyres, and still common as muck, every shitty old commodog and falcon uses 'em....or even if ya run 14's you can use commercials, cost a bit more to start with but'll last forever on a trailer...
Drew for Prime Minister!
www.oldskoolperformance.com
www.prospeedmc.com for parts ex U.S.A ( He's a Kiwi! )
oo, some support for 17's haha! i want them just cause they look better and the tow cars have got 17's
but 14's did make sense with tyre choice and cost.. although that doesnt bother me tooo much, what i was more worried about was leaf springs plus low profile tyres will have the thing bouncing around and getting airborne..
Put a pipe socket on the side/ rear and buy (or make) a small crane - run around $200 on trademe and good for 250kg or so. Very handy if you need to lift or load something. Use a windup trailer jack for the weight supporting leg by the crane. With a pipe socket, it is removable, so you don't have to take it - set it up so it folds down and latches to the side of the trailer for transport.
Don't forget a good jockey wheel for the front.
Built in ramps, or at least a carrying facility for them. I have a ramp fixed to the drawbar of my trailer with bolts with wingnuts on the top (no tools needed) and it is so handy.
Get the frame sandblasted and hot dip galvanised. Mine is panted with cold galv paint, which works, but not much cheaper than proper galv, which is a lifetime thing.
Get bearing buddies for the hubs - makes keeping them lubed easy.
Lots of tie down points of course - including some flush in the floor.
We have a a 2kVa inverter in the campervan, runs everything, even the microwave for a short while.
(\_/)
(O.o)
(> <) Peace through superior firepower...
Build your own dyno - PM me for the link of if you want to use it (bring beer)
Me, I'd put a fridge in, somewhere to plug a jug in, a sink to do dishes and one of these:
http://www.multikaicooker.co.nz/
BBQ or a decent cooked meal anytime.
I'd also build it so it was the same frontal dimensions as the towing vehicle and put a pop up roof on it. You can build it long if you need the volume but frontal area has a huge affect on how much gas you use but it's going to weigh pretty much the same either way.
Zen wisdom: No matter what happens, somebody will find a way to take it too seriously. - obviously had KB in mind when he came up with that gem
Artificial intelligence is no match for natural stupidity
as others have said about building trailer as a basic one and get reg sorted, it doesn't even need to have a solid deck. I bought mine as a flat deck type and i built it up from there.
register from new if you can, initial reg cost gets you plate etc and 12 month warrants for 5 years i think. its almost cheaper every 5 years to re-register than pay for WOF's
Yip, lots of tie down points. very good point. haha a crane might be getting keen, we have a winch to winch the sidecar up into the trailer easy enough. will have onboard ramps which slide under trailer.
Not bad ideas, we have gas bbq or coal bbq. both portable/small. A sink you recon.. bucket will probably have to do this time. Yea know about frontal area, not too sure how we going to go about it, width is dictated by the sidecar really, will be 1.9m wide.. will see how wide the audi is. its a fairly substantial sedan but prob not that wide.
This is really a budget trailer above all things, just trying to add some cool touches to what is a budget, cheap as we can trailer haha. we have a lot of stuff lying around/freebees though.
Cheers
yip, tis a smarter Idea - just thinking that the height of the fold down door may restrict the angle of the ramp and cause the sidecar to bottom out.. we think we are going to need some pretty long ramps (up to 3.6m haha!) so we can winch it on and off without bottoming the sidecar out.
Will have to sort that out once deck is finished and rolling on wheels so we can see its height and what angle we need the ramp to be at to avoid bottoming out.
Kickaha linked me up to some drop axle technical websites so will look at making a drop/step axle to lower the trailer.
but then he also pointed out the trailer itself may start bottoming out..
grrr..
any calculations/formulas I can use here to figure out trailer minimum ride height to be able to still get in and out of gas stations/driveways/curbs/speed bumps?
cheers fellas, some good points have been coming up which is what we need![]()
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)
Bookmarks