So what's the alternative?
Try the steam clean on the chain and then re-lube?
DL - Thanks for the parts info, good on ya!
So what's the alternative?
Try the steam clean on the chain and then re-lube?
DL - Thanks for the parts info, good on ya!
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Your beliefs don't make you a better person, your behaviour does.
Have a look at the link I included: here it is again: http://www.alpha-sports.com/suzuki_parts.htm
The filter is that long upright piece on part 1. The O ring is part 2. (scroll down to the bottom of the page).
Time to ride
So the fuel cock is the filter. It's of the type that you clean out and put back in, rather than replace with another disposable one?
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Your beliefs don't make you a better person, your behaviour does.
Thanks, am a noob at this stuff other than changing oil and oil filter...![]()
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Your beliefs don't make you a better person, your behaviour does.
If you are taking the tank off, draining it and removing the petcock, [which is prob a good idea] you may as well do the tank re-sealing thing with the POR15 tank resealing gloop. It is a 3 step process and very easy although time consuming in that you have to do it over a couple or 3 days. BUT it will be a new tank internally. Your local paint retailer should have or be able to source for you.
http://youtu.be/fZoz_PDxksc
Only a Rat can win a Rat Race!
Up until 2 years ago I had this exact model (and colour) bike - I loved it.
I also had a rusty petrol tank. Sediment would settle in carby bowls so these may also need cleaning.
I bought some POR-15. It's a 3 part rust treatment and preventative that is sold as a kit.
- Drain the tank, remove the fuel gauge sender (simple, 3 or 4 screws) and tap.
- Block the holes left by the tap etc. I just cut a piece of thin mdf, drilled some holes and used the original screws.
- Put the first POR-15 chemical (cleaner/sludge remover) in the tank and rotate the tank in all directions to spread the liquid over all of the internal surfaces.
I left it in for about an hour but rotated the tank about every 15 minutes.- Drain the cleaner. Rinse the tank with water.
- Put in the Prep/Rust Killer - follow a similar process to above but leave in for 2 hours then drain and flush with warm water.
It must be 100% dry - no moisture. Just to be sure it was dry I poked the Wife's hair dryer in the filler cap for a while.- Put in the final sealer. Rotate the tank slowly (alot) to get full coverage then drain the excess.
- Leave the sealer to cure for 4 days.
It was really simple and worked 100%.
This is where you can buy it in Auckland http://www.permanentpaintedcoatings..../auckland.aspx
I still have several parts for the GSX750ES if your interested. Including a Service Manual, Speedo Drive, Swing Arm and Switch Blocks (on the handle bars - lights etc, left and right) complete with electrical cables.
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i'm always serious. unless i'm using comic sans. even sometimes then i'm serious. i just don't want you not to know it.
burning it will strip the paint and get the moisture out of the metal. ready to re-paint.
steam cleaners.. hm. i know a guy ina factory in south auckland with one. any place that does "quarantine cleaning".. muh. many places, i'm sure. google-iser.
this is bad advice. says i.
if the tank is shitty and rusty, and that rust is flaking into your fuel. and becoming a fine powder that will, at best, block your fuel filter, at worst, transmorgify something inside the cylinder.
better to deal with it i say.
giz it.
kerosene, i believe has been mentioned. old paintbrush. apply liberally.
if it's a clippy chain, just take it off and soak in kero. if it's riveted. and you're really keen, take the side of the bike off, so you can get the whole chain off and soak it in kero. you will also check it's wear at this time.
+1
listen to this guy. he knows his shit.
I was about to piss on other advise about the tank (but in my imitable manner that would make them green bling me for being so understanding) but then the last few posters have it pretty nailed.
Old Suzis rust the tanks. It is a pain in the rectum & will only bring grief & a badly running bike. A fuel filter will not strain the silt, odd as it sounds but will take out the big bit & trust me I've tried & tried.
POR15 & follow the instructions. Actually there is a good article in latest CMM mag.
Make sure you unblock the vent hole just in the filler hole so it doesn't over flow. Heap of articles on doing tanks on net. POR is fav choice so far.
Then you can clean out the carbs & expect them to stay clean. Easy enough job, but frustrating the 3rd time.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
Thanks guys... NZspokes came by and had a look and confirmed that a carb clean is in order, as the old fuel sitting in the tank for the past two years has varnished.
I'll be attempting to take the tank off this weekend and get hold of some POR15.
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Your beliefs don't make you a better person, your behaviour does.
[QUOTE=Tigadee;1130386742]Hi all, so my big bike is here. It's looking rough (to be expected for a 1986 and only 1,550 dollars) so I'm needing advice on some things:
Looks like nice bike love the colour dude well done good score
Excellent point! Thank you!
They fit the bike?
Thanks! I like the colour too, and it's kinda a luminscent pearl-ish blue, rather than just a straight metallic blue. Plus the white stripes also glow when lit, like high-vis...
Pity about the engine though. Well, I always knew at some point in this motorcycling thing that I'd need to become a grease monkey...![]()
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Your beliefs don't make you a better person, your behaviour does.
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