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Thread: Some advice please - Suzuki GSX750 ES

  1. #16
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    2nd October 2011 - 19:50
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    So what's the alternative?

    Try the steam clean on the chain and then re-lube?

    DL - Thanks for the parts info, good on ya!
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  2. #17
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    2nd October 2011 - 19:50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jantar View Post
    Check the [fuel] filter is not clogged...
    Is a fuel filter basically a one-size fits all type device?
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  3. #18
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    21st August 2004 - 12:00
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tigadee View Post
    Is a fuel filter basically a one-size fits all type device?
    Have a look at the link I included: here it is again: http://www.alpha-sports.com/suzuki_parts.htm
    The filter is that long upright piece on part 1. The O ring is part 2. (scroll down to the bottom of the page).
    Time to ride

  4. #19
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    2nd October 2011 - 19:50
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    So the fuel cock is the filter. It's of the type that you clean out and put back in, rather than replace with another disposable one?
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  5. #20
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    21st August 2004 - 12:00
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tigadee View Post
    So the fuel cock is the filter. It's of the type that you clean out and put back in, rather than replace with another disposable one?
    Correct. ..
    Time to ride

  6. #21
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    2nd October 2011 - 19:50
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    Thanks, am a noob at this stuff other than changing oil and oil filter...
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  7. #22
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    3rd October 2006 - 21:21
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    If you are taking the tank off, draining it and removing the petcock, [which is prob a good idea] you may as well do the tank re-sealing thing with the POR15 tank resealing gloop. It is a 3 step process and very easy although time consuming in that you have to do it over a couple or 3 days. BUT it will be a new tank internally. Your local paint retailer should have or be able to source for you.
    http://youtu.be/fZoz_PDxksc
    Only a Rat can win a Rat Race!

  8. #23
    Join Date
    29th August 2008 - 16:32
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    C50T Boulevard, DR250S
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    Up until 2 years ago I had this exact model (and colour) bike - I loved it.

    I also had a rusty petrol tank. Sediment would settle in carby bowls so these may also need cleaning.


    I bought some POR-15. It's a 3 part rust treatment and preventative that is sold as a kit.

    • Drain the tank, remove the fuel gauge sender (simple, 3 or 4 screws) and tap.
    • Block the holes left by the tap etc. I just cut a piece of thin mdf, drilled some holes and used the original screws.
    • Put the first POR-15 chemical (cleaner/sludge remover) in the tank and rotate the tank in all directions to spread the liquid over all of the internal surfaces.
      I left it in for about an hour but rotated the tank about every 15 minutes.
    • Drain the cleaner. Rinse the tank with water.
    • Put in the Prep/Rust Killer - follow a similar process to above but leave in for 2 hours then drain and flush with warm water.
      It must be 100% dry - no moisture. Just to be sure it was dry I poked the Wife's hair dryer in the filler cap for a while.
    • Put in the final sealer. Rotate the tank slowly (alot) to get full coverage then drain the excess.
    • Leave the sealer to cure for 4 days.


    It was really simple and worked 100%.

    This is where you can buy it in Auckland http://www.permanentpaintedcoatings..../auckland.aspx


    I still have several parts for the GSX750ES if your interested. Including a Service Manual, Speedo Drive, Swing Arm and Switch Blocks (on the handle bars - lights etc, left and right) complete with electrical cables.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  9. #24
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    6th May 2012 - 10:41
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tigadee View Post
    Are you serious?!
    How do I get started with that? What and where do I hire whatever it is that I am to use to steam clean?
    i'm always serious. unless i'm using comic sans. even sometimes then i'm serious. i just don't want you not to know it.

    burning it will strip the paint and get the moisture out of the metal. ready to re-paint.

    steam cleaners.. hm. i know a guy ina factory in south auckland with one. any place that does "quarantine cleaning".. muh. many places, i'm sure. google-iser.


    Quote Originally Posted by Sable View Post
    Don't worry about rust unless the tank's leaking.
    this is bad advice. says i.
    if the tank is shitty and rusty, and that rust is flaking into your fuel. and becoming a fine powder that will, at best, block your fuel filter, at worst, transmorgify something inside the cylinder.
    better to deal with it i say.


    Quote Originally Posted by gsxr View Post
    Great bikes.
    I still have one of these GSX 750ESD although its now stored outside under a BBQ cover ...
    giz it.
    Quote Originally Posted by Tigadee View Post
    Try the steam clean on the chain and then re-lube?
    kerosene, i believe has been mentioned. old paintbrush. apply liberally.
    if it's a clippy chain, just take it off and soak in kero. if it's riveted. and you're really keen, take the side of the bike off, so you can get the whole chain off and soak it in kero. you will also check it's wear at this time.


    Quote Originally Posted by Laava View Post
    If you are taking the tank off, draining it and removing the petcock, [which is prob a good idea] you may as well do the tank re-sealing thing with the POR15 tank resealing gloop. It is a 3 step process and very easy although time consuming in that you have to do it over a couple or 3 days. BUT it will be a new tank internally. Your local paint retailer should have or be able to source for you.
    http://youtu.be/fZoz_PDxksc
    +1
    listen to this guy. he knows his shit.

  10. #25
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    25th March 2004 - 17:22
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    I was about to piss on other advise about the tank (but in my imitable manner that would make them green bling me for being so understanding) but then the last few posters have it pretty nailed.

    Old Suzis rust the tanks. It is a pain in the rectum & will only bring grief & a badly running bike. A fuel filter will not strain the silt, odd as it sounds but will take out the big bit & trust me I've tried & tried.

    POR15 & follow the instructions. Actually there is a good article in latest CMM mag.

    Make sure you unblock the vent hole just in the filler hole so it doesn't over flow. Heap of articles on doing tanks on net. POR is fav choice so far.

    Then you can clean out the carbs & expect them to stay clean. Easy enough job, but frustrating the 3rd time.
    Don't you look at my accountant.
    He's the only one I've got.

  11. #26
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    2nd October 2011 - 19:50
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    Thanks guys... NZspokes came by and had a look and confirmed that a carb clean is in order, as the old fuel sitting in the tank for the past two years has varnished.

    I'll be attempting to take the tank off this weekend and get hold of some POR15.
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  12. #27
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    1st September 2007 - 21:01
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tigadee View Post
    Thanks guys. NZspokes came by and had a look and confirmed that a carb clean is in order, as the old fuel sitting in the tank for the past two years has varnished.

    I'll be attempting to take the tank off this weekend and get hold of some POR15.
    Don't forget to remove the fuel gauge float/sender unit from inside the tank before you try to line the tank. It wont work too well afterwards if you dont.
    When life throws you a curve ... Lean into it ...

  13. #28
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    11th June 2011 - 16:30
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    Smile

    Quote Originally Posted by Tigadee View Post
    Hi all, so my big bike is here. It's looking rough (to be expected for a 1986 and only 1,550 dollars) so I'm needing advice on some things:

    1. Visible rust on the inside of tank. See photos. The rego for the bike ran out in Nov 2010 so assuming it's been sitting around for the past two years and it arrived with only 1/4 tank of petrol, there's no surprise about the rust. Is it serious enough to require action? If so, what steps would you recommend?

    Rust doesint look too bad if its not flaking and fallling off i just keep it fulled up so air cant get to it make it worse, also u can stick fuel filter on the fuel line between tank tap and the carbs , but i just sort the bike first see how you go.

    2. Chain and sprocket. Looks like the chain's not been lubed in a long time, so I'll give it a go on removing it, soaking in petrol and then re-lubing it. That's the best procedure, right? Does the sprocket look OK?

    Dont use petrol mind you if you cant affford to buy some kerosin and just get old rag wipe it down on the bike , then you can mix bit gear oil and grease and brush that on between the links just on the sides you dont need it on the rollers


    3. Rear tyre. Looks OK? Seems so to me...

    Thanks all [those who offered advice on the bike model and for those who will be answering on here].
    I got some spare halgen bulbs if you need them from my mx5 car

  14. #29
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    11th June 2011 - 16:30
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    Thumbs up

    [QUOTE=Tigadee;1130386742]Hi all, so my big bike is here. It's looking rough (to be expected for a 1986 and only 1,550 dollars) so I'm needing advice on some things:

    Looks like nice bike love the colour dude well done good score

  15. #30
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    2nd October 2011 - 19:50
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    Quote Originally Posted by FJRider View Post
    Don't forget to remove the fuel gauge float/sender unit from inside the tank before you try to line the tank. It wont work too well afterwards if you dont.
    Excellent point! Thank you!

    Quote Originally Posted by actungbaby View Post
    I got some spare halgen bulbs if you need them from my mx5 car
    They fit the bike?

    Quote Originally Posted by actungbaby View Post
    Looks like nice bike love the colour dude well done good score
    Thanks! I like the colour too, and it's kinda a luminscent pearl-ish blue, rather than just a straight metallic blue. Plus the white stripes also glow when lit, like high-vis...

    Pity about the engine though. Well, I always knew at some point in this motorcycling thing that I'd need to become a grease monkey...
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