Chopper project - I need some directions

[Paul in NZ]

Hmmm,the guy from BSpares also said what they called the Commodore was used in presidentual parades an such "so I guess that would mean police or military.

To tell the truth I never really gave it much though outside the fact I'd really wanted a 73 5 speed and I only bought the bike because I'd crashed it during a test ride and felt obligated to buy it after that.

The reason I cashed it was the selector Pawl spring was very weak and as I'd come up on a corner I changed down an the thing dropped straight through 3th and into 2nd gear "then when I tried to kick it back up it went into a false neutral and I then drifted wide into the gravel an decked it at low speed.

The fix was simply to remove the plunger that goes up through the bottem of the box "give the spring a stretch and then put it back in.

Over the next six months I replaced the gear box,all wheel bearing,stearing head bearings,the whole clutch and primary assembly,chains sprockets,all rubbers,both mufflers,the carbs,and a lot of other little bits an pieces so that I ended up with the stock 1973 5 speed Bonnie that I'd wanted in the first place.

People say some of us look back with rose tinted glasses when it comes to British bikes "but during the 4 years I owned that bike it was always very reliable for me.

The reason I sold it is another story "but it involved an SD900 Ducati that was part of a mates divorce settlement and was to good to turn down

Well that makes sense - although I suspect an American president would be awfully sour on a Triumph being used on escort duty in the USA and by then the poms had gone to BMW's I think. Shame you don't still have it as stock it would be a genuine rarity...

Yes - the odd thing is that generally, once put together properly and used sensibly these are very good bikes... Our TR6C has well over a 100,000 miles by us on it with us. 2 major rebuilds, one not long after purchase and one about 12,000 miles ago... A T140 should be better than that again...

As for an offer on an SD900 being too good to turn down - how much money did he give you to take it away? (just kidding - they can be a good bike but it has to be said it wasnt Ducatis finest hour)

[Terror]

Onto the next question, do any of you wise folks have any idea what the frame is? There are some numbers embossed down by the kick start but they didn't show anything up on the internet. I haven't seen any other numbers, they may have been welded over when the handlebar chop was done.

It looks quite a bit like the 1966 Bonniville (http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/moto...-539072325.htm) currently on Trademe????

[Paul in NZ]

Thats likely a casting number. Frame number is on a raised boss top left of the steering head. Might have lost it when it was raked. Usually matches the engine number but in your case it wont.

[Terror]

Thats likely a casting number. Frame number is on a raised boss top left of the steering head. Might have lost it when it was raked. Usually matches the engine number but in your case it wont.

Hmmm, that might not be a good thing. I suppose I can't register if I can't find it?

[Road kill]

If you can find the numbers on the stearing head "this link might help you work it out.
http://www.britishspares.com/41.php

[BIG DOUG]

Do not paint or powder anything until it is completely together this includes wiring etc because there is bound to be something that has to be welded or modified and depending on what tank you are using I would rubber mount it as twins tend to vibe and as for powder not being as black as two pak I would rather powder,the reason I say this is I have friends who are car painters and tight bastards paint there frames and it chips just putting it together.oh yea hers one I just finished still sorting out some minor things

[The Lone Rider]

Do not paint or powder anything until it is completely together this includes wiring etc because there is bound to be something that has to be welded or modified and depending on what tank you are using I would rubber mount it as twins tend to vibe and as for powder not being as black as two pak I would rather powder,the reason I say this is I have friends who are car painters and tight bastards paint there frames and it chips just putting it together.oh yea hers one I just finished still sorting out some minor things

Bang me an email and I'll get that put in the next issue.



Look up Chris Knibbs if you need advice on certifying a custom bike. But will probably cost you, to discuss it.

[scumdog]

Bang me an email and I'll get that put in the next issue.



Look up Chris Knibbs if you need advice on certifying a custom bike. But will probably cost you, to discuss it.

Nice to see you'll consider a Harley bobber, good one!

[Terror]

Alright guys, as promised I've taken some photos for everyone to check out. I managed to get the side cases open this evening and suprisingly everything looks visually quite good internally.

I've been having quite a bit of trouble trying to crack the nuts to inspect the head, they are quite rusted, and firmly on there - also it a b1tch of a location for trying to get any tools in there, really seem to be limited to spanners on these nuts, and I can't even get the ring spanner end over the top.. I'm going to keep pouring the CRC on, hopefully they will free up a little with enough of that on - anyone have any other suggestions, other than an angle grinder

Whats with the metrics on these machines... I grabbed my 10 & 12mm spanners first off, but they largely seem to be 13mm, go figure?

Here's where the frame has been cut and welded for the raked front end:




Here's the top side of the hard tail, where it joins to the main frame:



Here's the under side of the hard tail connection, note the same sized pipes:



Here's the case partially split , everything looks quite clean internally:



Here's the case again, obvoiusly the exterior is in very poor / weathered condition:



Here's the head, and partial shot of the twin carb:



Here's the otherside of the engine with case removed, internally she looks pretty clean, although a bucket load of thick old oil hit the deck then I pulled the case off:



Here's the outside of the case, looking pretty sad indeed. I'm not sure if t's worth trying to re-chrome or just replace it. Needs work anyway:



Here's another shot of the hard tail rear frame join to the main frame:



Hope everyone is having a good weekend!!!

[Subike]

""Whats with the metrics on these machines... I grabbed my 10 & 12mm spanners first off, but they largely seem to be 13mm, go figure""

Its British, you need SAE or Witworth spanner sets, sockets set, Lb sq in torque wrenches, allen wrenches, measuring tools need to be in inches, not millimeters.. Dont use metric spanners on a brit motor,ever!

[Brian d marge]

thats a pretty straight forward build me thinks , ONE small concern

TECHNICALLY ....as in it may sneak past and not cause a concern , but the head stock gusset in in the middle of the tube and is continuously welded

which sets it up for a incorrectly designed load bearing area. should be on the side of the tube and stitch welded

On saying that

FOR ME , Im not a fan of the huge stretches, so I would consider changing that area ( a second hand triumph frame keeping your hard tail and shorten the springers , ( being careful of course to keep a sensible rake and trail )

Stephen

[Road kill]

What Subike said about the bolt sizes,,their Brittish not metric.
Get your self a socket set and a couple of long reach ring spanners in the correct sizes.

The stearing head is not standard Triumph "looks like a hog Farm unit to me "Orb from the hog farm is still alive and well in Bombay somewhere,,,Google is your friend.

So far you've removed a couple of covers "primary/clutch on the left and cam/oil pump on the right.
Don't touch anything else until you have a Haynes workshop manual and a couple of specialist tools that you will read about in the manual.

Stop posting reversed photo's it really mess's with my head.

Paul will be along soon to comment on that clutch.

[Terror]

What Subike said about the bolt sizes,,their Brittish not metric.
Get your self a socket set and a couple of long reach ring spanners in the correct sizes.

The stearing head is not standard Triumph "looks like a hog Farm unit to me "Orb from the hog farm is still alive and well in Bombay somewhere,,,Google is your friend.

So far you've removed a couple of covers "primary/clutch on the left and cam/oil pump on the right.
Don't touch anything else until you have a Haynes workshop manual and a couple of specialist tools that you will read about in the manual.

Stop posting reversed photo's it really mess's with my head.

Paul will be along soon to comment on that clutch.

Sorry about the photos, had to use the webcam on my laptop and it was a major pain the the ass.

I looking into the workshop manuals today, and seeing if I can find some decent engine schematics. Does anyone know if I might find the Wes White DVD here in NZ? I've found it on the lowbros website but the shipping is the same cost as the DVD! So it's about $60 US all in, which is quite a bit for a DVD!!!

[imdying]

Wurth Rost Off does a better job of freeing rusted fasteners than CRC. Just keep dosing it daily, it'll wick in.

[Paul in NZ]

Erm - looking at the general crustiness of everything.... good luck... ;-)

The covers were only plated on one special edition and best just to clean those puppies off. You WILL need the special tools for removing the pinion nuts etc without damage.