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Thread: ESE's works engine tuner

  1. #10516
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    18th May 2007 - 20:23
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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Ok ... this and a spare MC16 frame from Husa is the start of my new "Less is More" project, "Less weight" and "More power", for a better, smarter, power to weight project.

  2. #10517
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    4th February 2005 - 07:32
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    Get that Cotswald geezer off the beer and pies, easy 10kg there.
    Stock is best

  3. #10518
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    27th January 2011 - 11:30
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    Tim, the Aprilia looked like it went very well today!


  4. #10519
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    26th April 2006 - 12:52
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    Quote Originally Posted by TZ350 View Post
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    Ok ... this and a spare MC16 frame from Husa is the start of my new "Less is More" project, "Less weight" and "More power", a better, smarter, power to weight project.
    Some random thoughts that spring to mind from my experience with my MC18 (Similar).

    Running one front brake disk was a more noticeable improvement than I would have thought.

    The arse will need to be jacked up, a lot.

    It's really hard to get the weight bias as far forward as required, husa and I had independently concluded that chopping it down (shortening) would be a desirable course of action.

    An R6 shock may work (Farmaken has since tried than and it's looking good for him!)

    Dave once showed me all the cutting I could do to lighten the frame without loosing strength/rigidity for my application, there was a lot that could come off.

    XXXX XX X XXXX XXXXXXXXXX XXXX XXXXXXX XXXXX XXX XXXX XXX XXXX XXXX XXX X XXXXXXX XXXXXXX XX XXXXXXXXX XXXXXXXX XXX XXXX XXXXXX XXXX X XXXXX XX XX XXXXXXXXXXXX XXXX XXXXX XX XXXXXXXXX XXX XX XXXXXXX.

    (Sorry about the X's, I want to try that before I open my mouth)

    RS250 forks and other parts of the same vintage are really similar on the outside and would be great but good luck finding some for a good price!

    The top mounting of the rear shock is inconvenient to change compared to say, an RGV250.

    The forks are OK for what they are but are faeces compared to proper cartridge units, I think even the later NSR's may have been damper rods when RGV's and TZR's had USD Cartrige goodness.

    It's really roomy for engine mounting, put it as far forward as you can with the chain still working.

    Do everything else you can to keep weight forward, including riding position.
    Heinz Varieties

  5. #10520
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    18th May 2007 - 20:23
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    Thanks for the tips, I may need to ask questions as I go along.

  6. #10521
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    3rd December 2011 - 23:33
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    Quote Originally Posted by chrisc View Post
    Tim, the Aprilia looked like it went very well today!

    Looks nice. I love the handling on these little RS50's... Great fun!

  7. #10522
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    7th September 2009 - 09:47
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    Quote Originally Posted by TZ350 View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Ok ... this and a spare MC16 frame from Husa is the start of my new "Less is More" project, "Less weight" and "More power", a better, smarter, power to weight project.
    You can save a good 2kg by replaceing the gas tank with a fiberglass top shell with an alloy cell foamed inside. Kel has the one I made, ask him to weigh it and compare it to your NSR tank.

  8. #10523
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    1st March 2011 - 19:15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Henk View Post
    Get that Cotswald geezer off the beer and pies, easy 10kg there.
    I think you will find he is only the interim rider and at 74kg is only 2 more than rick, so leave my pies alone..............

  9. #10524
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    Quote Originally Posted by jasonu View Post
    You can save a good 2kg by replaceing the gas tank with a fiberglass top shell with an alloy cell foamed inside. Kel has the one I made, ask him to weigh it and compare it to your NSR tank.
    I have had a good look at that tank and it is very light, I don't have an NSR tank but I do have a FZR one, I will weigh those when I get back.

  10. #10525
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    20th July 2010 - 07:56
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    Quote Originally Posted by jasonu View Post
    You can save a good 2kg by replaceing the gas tank with a fiberglass top shell with an alloy cell foamed inside. Kel has the one I made, ask him to weigh it and compare it to your NSR tank.
    Um not exactly, although TZ will be able to weigh it.
    TZ seems to be playing coy about the plans for the NSR frame. I've been helping out with supplying/sourcing parts, I shouldn't say too much but its fair to say it will be very light and very trick

  11. #10526
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    18th May 2007 - 20:23
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  12. #10527
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    8th February 2007 - 20:42
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    Been away racing for a few days and it takes a couple of hours to catch up on the thread, dont you guys have anything better to do.
    Saw the comment about so called "trick " spark plugs - calling a BR9EIX a trick plug is like calling a Corolla a trick car compared to a split screen Morris Minor..
    The Iridium plugs are useless in the respect of making more power over a bog standard BR9EGV say at 1/4 the price.
    And be aware that the instant you get deto, the iridium ceramic will split and drop off.
    The R7376 type plug is identical to the special shorty plugs as used on RS125/250 etc except it has a normal body size.
    They have iridium fine wire centre electrode, a laser welded fine wire platinum earth strap, and a heaver duty ceramic.
    These ARE trick plugs, and show a result on a dyno when pushing the outer limits of 2T tuning.
    Unless you are hard out tuning to death - you get jack shit for your money.

    I have posted these tests here before - 4 different plugs back to back - 3 runs each test averaged, now tell me plugs make no difference.
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    Ive got a thing thats unique and new.To prove it I'll have the last laugh on you.Cause instead of one head I got two.And you know two heads are better than one.

  13. #10528
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    18th May 2007 - 20:23
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    Quote Originally Posted by wobbly View Post
    Saw the comment about so called "trick " spark plugs - calling a BR9EIX a trick plug is like calling a Corolla a trick car compared to a split screen Morris Minor.
    I think the "Trick" was the bike shop reliving Tim of $29 ??? ....

    Quote Originally Posted by wobbly View Post
    be aware that the instant you get deto, the (BR9EIX) iridium ceramic will split and drop off.

    The R7376 type plug is identical to the special shorty plugs as used on RS125/250 etc except it has a normal body size.

    They have iridium fine wire centre electrode, a laser welded fine wire platinum earth strap, and a heaver duty ceramic.
    Wob ... will deto cause the same problem with the R7376 too? am I better of using gold pladium and/or std electrode plugs untill I have the over rev deto thing sorted.

  14. #10529
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    25th March 2004 - 17:22
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    I saw a Morris last week morphed into a small scale Monster truck. I didn't have a camera, but it was a laugh.

    From my testing of plugs, you have to test what suits your engine & again if you radically alter it. I've had std plugs work as well as EGVs, but I've also seen 1/2 hp increases on a 50 with EGVs as the com was high enough.

    I've seen a full hp increase on a friend's 50 with an NGK racing plug (maybe a R7376, can't remember), but same plug on my bike nada, despite 19:1 com ratio (that was an accident, but worked at the time). His chamber was super shallow & shrouded the std plug so a welded side strap helped.
    Don't you look at my accountant.
    He's the only one I've got.

  15. #10530
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    1st March 2011 - 19:15
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    bit of a mis fire

    I was trying to get to this weekends fun day in Auckland with my 1/2 finished GP but could not get it running right, I have put a video on youtube as the file is from an Ipad and I also cant make that work for this forum.

    http://youtu.be/eaHpanau3Yw

    It starts, idles and revs with the choke open, when the choke is off it backfires and dies, I am on 125 main and the needle on the top clip, I ran out of jets at 125 but am I right in thinking it's still too lean?

    Kx100 ignition set by the suck it and see method

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