Will I get my 100 ready in time for Taupo?

[F5 Dave]

Yeah the GP engine looks far easier, I've had a look around Katie's project, simples by comparison.

[speedpro]

I've severely chopped and welded a set of MB cases with a view to fitting them to an RS chassis. The problem remains that the carb mounting rubber perfectly lines up with the shock mount crossmember and is only about 5mm away. The only answer I see is to cut away the cross member and mount the shock somewhere else. A newer model RS chassis would help but the budget says no, sort of like Cyprus. I asked the Germans but they are, well, Germans and not leaping at the opportunity to invest. I even offered to join the EU.

[koba]

I've severely chopped and welded a set of MB cases with a view to fitting them to an RS chassis. The problem remains that the carb mounting rubber perfectly lines up with the shock mount crossmember and is only about 5mm away. The only answer I see is to cut away the cross member and mount the shock somewhere else. A newer model RS chassis would help but the budget says no, sort of like Cyprus. I asked the Germans but they are, well, Germans and not leaping at the opportunity to invest. I even offered to join the EU.

This photo of yours really shows it quite graphically:

http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/at...9&d=1257661670

[koba]

Invert the bastard - and reverse the barrel.

More smarts, but more hurdles; un-even stud spacing!
Again, possibly do-able but not if adhering to KISS.




I really do like the idea of a reverse cylinder.

[husaberg]

This photo of yours really shows it quite graphically:

http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/at...9&d=1257661670

Whats does the Mutt fit like?
Can't recall seeing a pic?
I have my own suspicions my engine while potentially being a better fit (assuming they ever meet)won't allow a decent intake as a mount is very close Maybe to close. The nsr125 and 150 have a Uber long kinked intake standard.

[koba]

Whats does the Mutt fit like?
Can't recall seeing a pic?
I have my own suspicions my engine while potentially being a better fit (assuming they ever meet)won't allow a decent intake as a mount is very close Maybe to close. The nsr125 and 150 have a Uber long kinked intake standard.

Great, except the frame is too long and weight ends up too far back.
If the frame rails were cut and shut with shorter forks it would work really well.

There is enough Room to fit a wanked CBR150 engine in there very well...

[cotswold]

There is enough Room to fit a wanked CBR150 engine in there very well...[/QUOTE]

I think Rick tried that and it didn't fit, he may have an older chassis?

[koba]

There is enough Room to fit a wanked CBR150 engine in there very well...

I think Rick tried that and it didn't fit, he may have an older chassis?[/QUOTE]

Sorry, talking about my 250 in that one.

[F5 Dave]

Well its been a few late nights but the 100 is back together with the engine mounts changed somewhat & hopefully giving the barrel some relief from the potential twisting it may have been getting before.

Now to run it in on the dyno & get some decent base settings that's all there really is time for.

So it will be ready for Taupo. Again. Even if it isn't Taupo this time. Gearing is a bit of a worry, I've run out of time to make up some more sprockets for the rear so will have to suffice with front changes. oh yeah the chain is a bit naff, might have to spring for a new one if the budget allows.

So its been the 50 that has needed some attn.

I usually give it a new ring before the GP each year. But I haven't gone near the bottom end since 2004. Try that on your FXR & spin it to 14.

Clutch gave some grief meeting before last & there wasn't that much oil in there. Hmm. sure it'll be fine with some more oil & new clutch inner. Next race, gee its smoking a bit Dave. Hmm, ok gear box crank seal. Ordered seals ($11) & haven't had the time to pull it down. ok so check & evidence of blow by on seal (& wear on seal, prob due to oil oil level).

Some brass in the bottom. 1st gear bush shagged. Buy some beer, swap for gearbox.

While I'm here I might as well polish the crank so the bearing is a slide fit on both sides. Bearings were a bit of an issue but I've got some C4s plastic cage ones for both sides, but have to machine the groove for the snap ring so its with a toolmaker this morning.

Ported this engine back in the dark ages, maybe I'll give it a look over. Hmm, bottom of transfer to bore pretty sharp, give that a tickle. Piston could have a tickle in same area.


Hmm reedblock on back of barrel could be a bit obstructed by back of barrel, I'll just grind that a bit. Wonder why I never did this before? Hmm piston skirt obstructs this at BDC esp now I've tickled the bore spigot. I'll just shorten the piston skirt a bit, probably about 4mm, there's heaps of skirt for support. Gee I wonder why I never did that before?

Just as finishing grinding. . . . Wirrrr- CLICK. Oh yeah, that's right, its not full reed, there's the piston port inlet to consider. Opps. So either I've made the bike more peaky, or it will suit the rev range its in & be just fine.

Found the new spare piston, so I will run the numbers & fit that if its looking a bit rad on inlet, or just try it on the dyno.

Hope to catch up on sleep thurs night.

[speedpro]

I reckon you will get away with 202-205 degrees duration on the inlet on your 50. Any more could be asking a bit much of the clutch.

[F5 Dave]

Well I measured it & maybe it will be fine.

Remember this is the suzuki RM(RG) like setup 1/2 reed, 1/2 piston port.

The 4mm off has taken it from a rather conservative 162* to a whapping 182.5*. According to the old Bell book for 12,000 195-200* is the go for piston port & minus 15* for an RM reed, which takes it to 180-185*, so smack in the middle of the recommendation & a little to spare as the 50 peaks at 13 not 12.

I think I'll give it a try & see how it goes, may even be better peak, but as we know spread is always better (just not always that possible on a 50).

engine complete & on the bench. Might slide off early & throw it in the frame & take both to the dyno.

[F5 Dave]

Well that was depressing. The 50, well it goes pretty much the same as before but now can fall into the Blarrhs & get loaded up pretty easy. If on song it won't be an issue. So I don't know whether to change the piston back or not. Sounds like a bit of bother, but if it did load up it would be a drag. Before going I found the muffler perf tube was broken so tried to weld it but made a sleeve & reriveted it as it was just blowing apart.

So a bunch of work done & no benefit, although I have the variable of the piston skirt & the fact I could see a bit of light around the new ring when held to the light so perhaps the bore is just a bit oval.

The 100 was worse. Think I got somewhere between 18 & 20hp, but the graph stopped showing after about 9000 & reappears after 12-13000 for a few mm. Clutch obviously slipping. Didn't seem to get any better.

Get home, drain oil. All sorts of questions running through my brain, but its well past 11pm.
Why is it slipping despite an extra plate clutch & MB100 springs with a few mm extra preload so they almost coil-bind?
How much power could it be capable of producing if that was fixed?
Is the tuning about right now for best power, 'cause I just can't tell when you can blatantly control the slip with the throttle.
And where is all that Ally dust in the oil coming from?

Got cover off & it appears the clutch cush drive rivets have come off. Haven't seen that before on a std basket. Rubbing on case. flush ally dust.

Replace basket & scuff up modified steels & find some more plates that are ea 0.06 thicker & std springs that are almost a mm longer.

Have to decide whether to dyno again or just assume 32hp & aim for a good sleep.

[speedpro]

2 things to look at in the clutch.

1 is the washer between the inner and outer hub and basket? Is it the correct washer? If it isn't there every time you pull the clutch in the back plate will rub.
2 This is a possible problem with my modified clutches. Have I machined the bottom of the inner hub enough? I think there is a slight possibility that if I haven't cut it back enough that the first fiber plate you put in can bind up on step on the inner spline. This could be where alloy is getting in the oil. If it's slipping make sure the whole clutch pack is being clamped including the first clutch plate you put on when installing it.

I can throw a some spare bits in the car when I come down.

[richban]

2 things to look at in the clutch.

1 is the washer between the inner and outer hub and basket? Is it the correct washer? If it isn't there every time you pull the clutch in the back plate will rub.
2 This is a possible problem with my modified clutches. Have I machined the bottom of the inner hub enough? I think there is a slight possibility that if I haven't cut it back enough that the first fiber plate you put in can bind up on step on the inner spline. This could be where alloy is getting in the oil. If it's slipping make sure the whole clutch pack is being clamped including the first clutch plate you put on when installing it.

I can throw a some spare bits in the car when I come down.

Also look at the oil you are using. I ran my bike in at manfield once. Motul semi synth in for a while, clutch slipping like crazy. Changed oil to the expensive double ester and it never slipped again.

[F5 Dave]

2 things to look at in the clutch.

1 is the washer between the inner and outer hub and basket? Is it the correct washer? If it isn't there every time you pull the clutch in the back plate will rub.
2 This is a possible problem with my modified clutches. Have I machined the bottom of the inner hub enough? I think there is a slight possibility that if I haven't cut it back enough that the first fiber plate you put in can bind up on step on the inner spline. This could be where alloy is getting in the oil. If it's slipping make sure the whole clutch pack is being clamped including the first clutch plate you put on when installing it.

I can throw a some spare bits in the car when I come down.

1. yes that is std castelled washer
2. Hmm, trouble picturing what you are saying but I think I checked & the steels had clearance. When putting together I pull the inner basket & then put on the springs, but it is fiddly.

The clutch had been un touched for 3 meetings & hadn't seen a problem, well, maybe it ran out of gearing up the hill in 6th that could have actually been clutch slip when I thought about it as most load in tallest gear.

The ally came mostly (all?) from the case by the primary gear where the backing plate of the cush drive had come away when the rivets broke & was turning some grooves. Didn't look particularly safe thing to do at 12,000rpm.

Those clutches wobble quite a bit so I put a precautionary thin shim behind the whole plot so that middle washer hasn't got 3mm of movement, only 1mm slop now.


But yes I could be desperate for a fix if this doesn't work so all spares gladly begged for if you have something that could help Mike.

I grabbed a bottle of Elf gear oil & I think that went in the 100 when I put it together, never used it before. Back to my std Motul transoil for the newer plates.