Someones gonna make a killing selling all this new gear, especially all the belly pans,,,,![]()
Someones gonna make a killing selling all this new gear, especially all the belly pans,,,,![]()
"That's rooted!! What's next??"
Yip,
Glen at just fairings,Teed it up with him waaaaay before we even decided on the rule change,Un less its for a Ninja,Then you need to call me or try oversea's,That said I'm sure there are other options and most of the newer generation stuff available for the 6 hundies and Supers already have the enclosed Bellypans....Nice try at stirring shit all the same.But I was well aware that someody would and so I took a step back,Plus its a bastard of a job anyways LMFAO!!!
Fairings aren't an engine cover?22.8.18
All lateral engine cases containing oil or water and which could contact the ground during a crash, must be protected by a second cover made from composite materials, type carbon or Kevlar, or be fitted with heavy duty crash resistant end cases made from solid metal plates and or bars made from alloy or steel all must be resistant to sudden shock
Reason: To reduce the incidence of oil or water left on the track following a crash
Zen wisdom: No matter what happens, somebody will find a way to take it too seriously. - obviously had KB in mind when he came up with that gem
Artificial intelligence is no match for natural stupidity
No it's not - 22.8 refers to the ROAD RACE CHAMPIONSHIPS....so unless and until Classics and Posties have a National Championship it doesn't apply there or at club level.
If the intent was to apply it across all road racing it should have gone in Motorcycles Technical or as a separate rule in Section 22.
Lock wiring caliper bolts is a pain in the arse, for no real safety gain. Forgetting to do them up is not changed, and I've certainly never seen them come loose on their own.
That one's dumb, the rest make sense.
Agreed - if the idea is to keep them tight, you should use either #8 lockwire or studs with castellated nuts and splitpins or lock tabs.
All lockwire tells you is, if it's broken, the bolt's moved, if it hasn't it's still tight.
when I started, a lot of the experienced guys used copper wire - they knew it was just an indicator if the bolt had moved. If it's now compulsory to wire, I'll use copper again.
The last thing we need in NZ is to go like the US - have a look at the AMA and Vintage race rules on lockwiring....anal or what ?
I agree with Drew on this, I have done thousands of oil changes (road going) and have never seen a sump bung come loose........seen a couple left loose. I'm more of a fan of locktite or a torque wrench.......soon bikes will be fully lock wired to keep dumb people safe.
but rules are rules and comply we will.
Its harder to lose weight than gain horsepower.
I believe the PROPOSED rule change say's,Lockwired or pinned in the tightened position,IE If you were to drill through the bolthead and insert an "R" clip through the hole that would prevent the bolthead from turning,That would be acceptable.
Personally,I always take the time to lockwire mine as to me it's a no brainer.
Or as i do with the fairing stay R clips and the front/rear axle R clips.......... wire the clip to each other or the bike at the top. Then you dont lose clip when you remove it and you dont have to keep rewiring each time you undo it. Just simply slide the clip the the loop in wire enough to remove it. More than one occasion over the last two seasons have front calipers become detached on race bikes (it tends to get hushed up- for fear of embarrasment)Thankfully without consequences. agree it should be tight..but at least if its nipped but not tightened but wired it wont undo completely. The knocking sound / spongy lever and grabbing brakes should serve as first warning that all is not well
Hey Billy its taken longer than i thought for the "belly pan" card to be played![]()
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