gs1100g puss bucket

[fridayflash]

my gs1100 is giving me grief..heres the outline, i bought it 6 months ago off a bloke who had parked it up
for three years (altho occasionally started it ) before selling it he registered it, fresh wof, oil, plugs etc
the day i picked it up it had a full tank already and although it was 3 year old petrol the bike started and ran
ok so i used that fuel to ride home on (waikanae to napier) so the bike went ok..but pretty flat on power
i assumed it'd be the dull fuel, at home i found the air filter was heavily clogged so replaced that...next was
carbs out, generally clean condition, but was some gunk in the pilots as i expected due to the flat power
below 3-4000rpm. this marginally improved things, but still runs a bit flat and fluffy (...er?) up to 3000rpm ish
overall power is about 80% of what it should be, other symptoms to note are..if i take it out and give it a
hard caning (redlines) itll start to starve of fuel...fuel cap and breather are all ok, as is fuel line and petcock
ive had to pull over and put the tap onto prime to refill the carbs a few times when this has happened.
secondly when hot it now idles high and erratic...intake boots could be frucked but i cant detect any air leaks
by spraying wd-40 at them (should i try something more suitable?). also the bike has a bit of oil coming outa the
airbox breather..? that could be from blow by..or a buggered petcock overfilling my sump with fuel i know
but petcock seems faultless, and oil level isnt high at all.as for blow by, compression reading were all 125psi.
so i dont know if the oil thing is related to the other issues.

so, any ides comrades? your advice is welcomed

eddie

[Grumph]

You don't say what pipe is on it - those old buggers are surprisingly pipe sensitive.

Do the shims - and be generous with clearances, .004inlet, .006 ex won't be noisy but will run cleaner.
Do a vacuum synch - and check the carb diaphragms are intact and seated properly.
Put a change of straight mineral oil through it - from the sounds of things it may be glazed and you'll never get it to reseat rings on synthetic or semi synth.

plenty of advice on the GSresources site - but they won't like your language...yanks.

[fridayflash]

a mate just looked up set of intake boots for me..$135.00 us
so if im facing a leak in my lot can i bodge them up to gauge the efficacy of buying a new set?
i thought black silicon was ok, although a mate recommends polyurethane based prods are the go...

[Grumph]

a mate just looked up set of intake boots for me..$135.00 us
so if im facing a leak in my lot can i bodge them up to gauge the efficacy of buying a new set?
i thought black silicon was ok, although a mate recommends polyurethane based prods are the go...

i seem to be in a minority here but i've never had a problem with old carb inlet rubbers.
Don't spend until you've proved they're the problem.IMO other things are more likely.

[fridayflash]

thanks, yeah im with you there...and theres a lot of other things going on that dont seem to be related to an air leak
ie; aparant fuel starvation etc

[Madness]

so, any ides comrades? your advice is welcomed

Try to not hit the return button after every 5 or 6 words you type.

[Akzle]

set your floats a mm higher.

[fridayflash]

You don't say what pipe is on it - those old buggers are surprisingly pipe sensitive.

Do the shims - and be generous with clearances, .004inlet, .006 ex won't be noisy but will run cleaner.
Do a vacuum synch - and check the carb diaphragms are intact and seated properly.
Put a change of straight mineral oil through it - from the sounds of things it may be glazed and you'll never get it to reseat rings on synthetic or semi synth.

plenty of advice on the GSresources site - but they won't like your language...yanks.

ah yes, pipe is a 4 into 1 which is definately a bit of a bug bear too...far to restricting so ive opened it up by drilling a heap if 12mm holes, it doesnt sound great but its free'd it up enough for now..when things are closer to sorted ill fit a cycleworks 4in1, the slash end one is my fave pipe for an old zuki four.
i havent looked at the valve clearances yet at all..although top end sounds ok.ill follow your advice on oil thanks, i dont know what the previous owner put in it....oh and carb diaphrams are all good

cheers

eddie

[fridayflash]

set your floats a mm higher.

funny you should say that akzle..after my initial carb cleanup etc i removed them again to do just that..no cigar

[Akzle]

funny you should say that akzle..after my initial carb cleanup etc i removed them again to do just that..no cigar

set them a mm HIGHER!!

[fridayflash]

im pretty sure i went at least two mm higher...i was half expecting to cop a bit of overflow

[Akzle]

ok then. Bigger jets? Clip the needles down?

[fridayflash]

yeah, good point..i kinda left everything as it was in the carbs and just cleaned them etc..if it comes down to tuning ill go through jet sizes and needle posi etc.....im just kinda sure something else is shitting it, like an air leak, a fucked petcock diaphramm and a crook HT lead all once

[Crasherfromwayback]

...intake boots could be frucked but i cant detect any air leaks
by spraying wd-40 at them (should i try something more suitable?).

CRC engine start is a goodin for finding any air leaks mate.

[mossy1200]

If the bowl has a passage from top up though the bowl gasket check that's clear. Had a few sitter bikes run like they had the carb on all the time.