The WR250 Thread

[pete-blen]

I've started to notice that snatchiness off idle alot more since I've been commuting with the bike the last couple of weeks, seem to be getting used to it though. Never really noticed it trailriding. Maybe it's just the nature of EFI.

Tank scratches at their worst on my WR... attached

Mine is a little snatchy too, kind of assume it's injector related,

It is.... there is a mod to the twist grip that helps..

what happens is the TPS is senceing the small movement of the throttle you make with out knowing..
every time it sences a movement the ECU richen the fuel mixture thinking you are going to accelerate
when you don't it leans it back out... It's this jumping between the two fuel ratios " open & closed fueling loops" thats what makes the bike surge..
On my XT660R constance throttle fuel ratio is 13.6:1 closed loop , accelearation it's 14.7:1 open loop...

The mod is to change the twist grip to a duel ratio so the first 1/3 of the thottle is at a lower ratio..
so any movements are smaller & the TPS dose not sence them so easly...
Also to much chain slack & worn / lose cush drive rubbers will make the XTR surge...

thats why you don't notice the surging trail rideing... off & on the gas all the time... not at a constant throttle setting..

[oneblackflag]

It is.... there is a mod to the twist grip that helps..

what happens is the TPS is senceing the small movement of the throttle you make with out knowing..
every time it sences a movement the ECU richen the fuel mixture thinking you are going to accelerate
when you don't it leans it back out... It's this jumping between the two fuel ratios " open & closed fueling loops" thats what makes the bike surge..
On my XT660R constance throttle fuel ratio is 13.6:1 closed loop , accelearation it's 14.7:1 open loop...

The mod is to change the twist grip to a duel ratio so the first 1/3 of the thottle is at a lower ratio..
so any movements are smaller & the TPS dose not sence them so easly...
Also to much chain slack & worn / lose cush drive rubbers will make the XTR surge...

thats why you don't notice the surging trail rideing... off & on the gas all the time... not at a constant throttle setting..

So it looks like you cut a little grove into the grip, correct? I'll have to have a look at this tomorrow. Seems like people get good results adjusting the TPS position if its out of spec, same goes for increasing the idle up towards 1650: http://wr250rforum.forumotion.com/t5...osition+SEnsor

Will have a play around tomorrow see if I can get some results....

Yea you could just use the clutch more I know but... Im lazy :

* Well that was easy, just turned up the idle quite a bit, didn't bother going into diagnostics mode to see the tachometer. Feels a whole lot better now, not 100% may adjust the TPS at some stage.

[Dave h]

Got my Safari tank fitted last week, fits well and seems solid as and fark its good not having to gas up every 5minutes

Had a strange electrical prob yesterday though which has me stumped.

Went for a 2 hour trail ride (karapoti from the akas end, pram track etc ) did a couple of shallow river crossings and rode through a lot of puddles, came off once but not in water.
Got back to the parking area and turned bike off with key. One ciggie later turned key back on, made the same noise it always does (fuel pump priming?) but the noise just kept on going and hitting the start button did nothing.

Crash started it and back home 40mins later tried the key and it was fine. Its water related i'm sure but I want to get it sorted because if it happens in a place where I cant crash start it then there will be tears

[dino3310]

i put vaseline or simular on any electrics that may/possibly be prone to shorting, connections like that thing at the top of the spark plug lead

[clint640]

Got back to the parking area and turned bike off with key. One ciggie later turned key back on, made the same noise it always does (fuel pump priming?) but the noise just kept on going and hitting the start button did nothing.

Crash started it and back home 40mins later tried the key and it was fine. Its water related i'm sure but I want to get it sorted because if it happens in a place where I cant crash start it then there will be tears

That sounds suspiciously like a clutch/neutral switch starter interlock fault. Most newer e-start bikes won't switch on the starter motor unless the clutch is pulled in &/or the bike is in neutral so check those switches & their associated wiring 1st.

Cheers
Clint

[Transalper]

That sounds suspiciously like a clutch/neutral switch starter interlock fault. Most newer e-start bikes won't switch on the starter motor unless the clutch is pulled in &/or the bike is in neutral so check those switches & their associated wiring 1st.

Cheers
Clint

Interesting you say that, I had my whole side stand mount including the switch off and sitting kind of upside down/sideways..ish the other day while I drilled a hole in the bottom chain bump rubber under the swing arm to mount my chain oiler through, anyway when I turned it all right way up a heap of water dribbled out of the switch. I'm surprised it was still working so that switch may indeed be a good thing to check.
Don't know why it took an inversion to bring the water to the surface.

[Dave h]

Thanks for the advice guys I'll check the wiring you suggested.

It's been fine since then, I've hosed it down and today been riding in pissing down rain and it's all good. After reading your replies though I went out to the shed and sprayed the sidestand switch with wd40

Going to wire in a usb charger next week so while I'm doing that I'll have a nosey.

[That looks like fun]

Mr Yamaha builds a darn fine bike
Unfortunatly his electrics and switchs appear (in my humble opinion) to be crap Indicators are a piece of turd to try and turn off, you sort of push wiggle and hold the button down I have actually given up using them as it pisses me off when people pull out in front of me because I am rideing down the road with my indicator on Just because I am indicating doesnt mean I am going to turn, they should know that
I have also had issues with the bike failing to wind over, hold the starter for a few seconds and away it goes Oh yes I am so excited about waiting for the day it dont go and I am parked up to my eyelids in papa mud, yessiree indeed
Got the local dealer to look at them (under warrenty), much worse now .

Love the rest of the bike

[pete-blen]

Mr Yamaha builds a darn fine bike
Unfortunatly his electrics and switchs appear (in my humble opinion) to be crap Indicators are a piece of turd to try and turn off, you sort of push wiggle and hold the button down I have actually given up using them as it pisses me off when people pull out in front of me because I am rideing down the road with my indicator on Just because I am indicating doesnt mean I am going to turn, they should know that
I have also had issues with the bike failing to wind over, hold the starter for a few seconds and away it goes Oh yes I am so excited about waiting for the day it dont go and I am parked up to my eyelids in papa mud, yessiree indeed
Got the local dealer to look at them (under warrenty), much worse now .

Love the rest of the bike

Don't know about the WR250R... but the XTR wireing is a issue... wires are so thin & the plastic wares though if the are rubbing on anything... steering head area is real bad...

[Transalper]

Had the blinker switch issue too, dismantled, cleaned, packed full of TF2 Lithium grease, heaps better now, almost works like new.
Stuff a heap of the same grease down the key hole when cleaning the bike too, the ignition key was a bit catchy at times prior to that.
No other issues like those spring to mind.

[JimmyC]

Haven't had any issues with my indicator switch but the ignition does play hard to get from time to time... thanks for the tip.

[That looks like fun]

Blue grease works best

[Transalper]

had another blinker issue after a dunking last weekend, just traced it to a small bit of river grit or a very very small stone if you like, it was stuck in a spot that prevented the switch from actually going all the way to the on position to activate my left blinker.
Stone removed and cleaned the whole thing out again and all is well with the blinkers once more.

Now, what makes a wheel out of round and how much out of round is too much?
At 50kph it feels quite annoying, at 100 it's gone again or just added vibration.
Wonder if they did that on the service it just had by tightening the spokes wrong... or can an out of balance tyre (was my first thought is it simply may be in need of balancing) pull the wheel out of round?
Just spun it by hand up on the jack and can see it's not totally true.

[That looks like fun]

had another blinker issue after a dunking last weekend, just traced it to a small bit of river grit or a very very small stone if you like, it was stuck in a spot that prevented the switch from actually going all the way to the on position to activate my left blinker.
Stone removed and cleaned the whole thing out again and all is well with the blinkers once more.

Now, what makes a wheel out of round and how much out of round is too much?
At 50kph it feels quite annoying, at 100 it's gone again or just added vibration.
Wonder if they did that on the service it just had by tightening the spokes wrong... or can an out of balance tyre (was my first thought is it simply may be in need of balancing) pull the wheel out of round?
Just spun it by hand up on the jack and can see it's not totally true.

Tyre/wheel imbalance will generally alter with speed, most vehicles (bikes included) seem affected worst through the forties (kph). Its not that the imbalance has gone away at higher or lower speeds its merely affecting the vehicle differently.
Poor spoke tuning will definatly pull a rim out of true. However adjusting the spokes to rectify a bent rim is not a ggod option.
Do the sound check on the spokes, not amazingly accurate but all spokes should have an equal tension. Stick the wheel in a vice and hold by the axle so it is horizontal, give it a spin and use a ruler from your bench up to the rim. If it really is deformed I would be going back to the guy who did the service and asking some questions.

[dino3310]

ah just drop the psi a little and ride faster