The DR650 thread

**R650R** · 17th July 2014, 22:20

The eternal mystery of the DR650 throttle position switch on carb... only engages at about 90%
Done some googling and general consensus is that it retards ignition at high revs for noise/emissions testing...
But all the threads tail off with no definitive answer, anyone ever get to the end of it, test???

**R650R** · 17th July 2014, 22:31

Originally Posted by DR650gary

Thanks. PM me when/if you locate it and can bear to part with it.

Now, off to find a battery and a rear tyre.

Got this coming

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Motorcycl...E:L:OC:US:3160

so need to fabricate a little bracket holder and get a new number plate.

The bike has sat for almost 12 months in my son's shed and it started almost first pop with a jumper. Didn't even change the fuel.

Let us know how you get on with that, think the clear lens (even though the light is red when on) is not legal for NZ.
You'll see a lot of cars about with clear outer covers over the tail and indicator/reverse assembly but the bit where brake led/light is still has a red reflector/background...

**NordieBoy** · 18th July 2014, 07:43

Originally Posted by R650R

The eternal mystery of the DR650 throttle position switch on carb... only engages at about 90%
Done some googling and general consensus is that it retards ignition at high revs for noise/emissions testing...
But all the threads tail off with no definitive answer, anyone ever get to the end of it, test???

Procycle tested it on the dyno and it made no difference.

Most of the US bikes don't have it at all.

**R650R** · 18th July 2014, 08:22

Originally Posted by NordieBoy

Procycle tested it on the dyno and it made no difference.

Most of the US bikes don't have it at all.

Yes that info is already available, but still no one has definitely said what it does.
Is it just noise/emmisions control or does it give the plugs an easier time at extended high rpm...
Not a fan of Dyno for conclusive results, still never the same as extended real world conditions.

**NordieBoy** · 18th July 2014, 08:47

But a wide open throttle run on a dyno, with and without the switch should give back numbers that show a difference even if it's unnoticeable in the real world.

**DR650gary** · 18th July 2014, 09:35

Originally Posted by R650R

Let us know how you get on with that, think the clear lens (even though the light is red when on) is not legal for NZ.
You'll see a lot of cars about with clear outer covers over the tail and indicator/reverse assembly but the bit where brake led/light is still has a red reflector/background...

Thought the swivel and the ability to choose which light for which purpose meant I could wire the white light for plate and the coloured for braking. If I point it downish I should be alright, or just stand at the back of the bike at wof time and divert attention.

Will let you know though.

Cheers

**R650R** · 18th July 2014, 19:14

Originally Posted by NordieBoy

But a wide open throttle run on a dyno, with and without the switch should give back numbers that show a difference even if it's unnoticeable in the real world.

So whose gonna be a donor bike for the required HOURS on the Dyno, such a small change would need very long runs to measure meaningfull difference in fuel or plug life.
Had my GSXR1100 on Dyno once, what a racket that was... Dynos are good for measuring things like torque curve/peak power etc but nothing beats real world measurments for some things.

**NordieBoy** · 18th July 2014, 21:24

Real world measurement for something that only happens at full throttle?

What sort of plug life do people normally get?

**badlieutenant** · 18th July 2014, 22:44

And just to confuse things further re the throttle switch I read somewhere that it retards the ignition only for first and second gears.............Ive disabled mine but its hard to say if there is any difference to before.

**NordieBoy** · 19th July 2014, 08:34

Originally Posted by badlieutenant

And just to confuse things further re the throttle switch I read somewhere that it retards the ignition only for first and second gears.............Ive disabled mine but its hard to say if there is any difference to before.

Nope. There's only a neutral sensor, no gear sensor.
Mine doesn't even have the neutral sensor...

**DR650gary** · 19th July 2014, 10:19

New rear tyre and battery and the bike is up and running.

Can't remember my first DR but are the rear brakes really crappy or do I need to look further? I have taken up the adjustment needed to get the wheel in and out but there just seems to be little real bite.

Comments/recommendations?

Cheers

**R650R** · 19th July 2014, 10:27

Originally Posted by DR650gary

New rear tyre and battery and the bike is up and running.

Can't remember my first DR but are the rear brakes really crappy or do I need to look further? I have taken up the adjustment needed to get the wheel in and out but there just seems to be little real bite.

Comments/recommendations?

Cheers

Always found Suzuki OEM brakes front and rear to be pretty decent, might need a bleed or bit more of a pump after being disturbed...

**DR650gary** · 19th July 2014, 13:22

Originally Posted by R650R

Always found Suzuki OEM brakes front and rear to be pretty decent, might need a bleed or bit more of a pump after being disturbed...

Thanks. Really couldn't remember as it was a couple of years ago. Pressure is fine so I'll just get some more pads. My son rode a bit harder than I so they may be a bit crazed. Was just hoping the brakes were crap so could tick off another job.

Cheers

**badlieutenant** · 20th July 2014, 03:00

Originally Posted by NordieBoy

Nope. There's only a neutral sensor, no gear sensor.
Mine doesn't even have the neutral sensor...

isnt that one of the recommendations to do to your dr ? remove a fault before it happens. Yer I did sort of wonder, without a sensor, how it knew what gear the bike was in.
Gary! back on a DR!

If your up Auckland way drop us a line. It was the rims your son took off his DR I bought off you ?