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Thread: Engine break-in oil

  1. #1
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    Engine break-in oil

    After quite a while of being bikeless(rideable,regoed legal) I have finished a motor rebuild of my old classic 92 blade.So off I go to the shops to get some mineral oil for the first run, only to discover there aint much choice for a mineral 10-40w oil, closest I have to choose is motul 3000, was hoping to get some mobil super 4t 15-40w but mobil NZ has chosen not to sell it here?, anyone seen this in the shops?

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    Give Allied petroleum a call. They are the (im)mobil(e) lube agent.

    I gotta ask why you need a break in oil? The days of these has long gone.
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    Think Joe Gibbs racing oil, main element being high zinc content. Not like you can get this here anyway...

    For road application just use a good quality mineral oil and keep the first drain interval after rebuild short.

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    Supercheap auto Castrol GPS 4T 10w40, its an el cheapo semi that the GSXR drinks these days will do fine.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flip View Post
    Give Allied petroleum a call. They are the (im)mobil(e) lube agent.

    I gotta ask why you need a break in oil? The days of these has long gone.
    That's correct there is no oil called break in oil, but a good mineral oil is essential to allow the rings to bed in, even a semi synthetic can hinder the process.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bsasuper View Post
    That's correct there is no oil called break in oil, but a good mineral oil is essential to allow the rings to bed in, even a semi synthetic can hinder the process.
    Some vehicles come factory with synthetic, it is not essential at all
    "If you can make black marks on a straight from the time you turn out of a corner until the braking point of the next turn, then you have enough power."


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    Even BP would shy away from cleaning up a sidecar oil spill.
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    Available at Penrite stockists. High Zinc Mineral running in oil.

    http://www.penriteoil.co.nz/products...d_products=340
    I mentioned vegetables once, but I think I got away with it...........

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    I always like to run new Japanese road bikes on 10W40 straight mineral for the first 6000 km too...
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    Quote Originally Posted by Woodman View Post
    Available at Penrite stockists. High Zinc Mineral running in oil.

    http://www.penriteoil.co.nz/products...d_products=340
    Mmmm, we'll have confused folks now. High zinc break-in oil is still common in some circles...

    Quote Originally Posted by Pussy View Post
    I always like to run new Japanese road bikes on 10W40 straight mineral for the first 6000 km too...
    Same here, run to second OCI on mineral then onto synthetic. Works well for hard run cars, bikes, trucks and even jet skis...

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    Quote Originally Posted by Woodman View Post
    Available at Penrite stockists. High Zinc Mineral running in oil.

    http://www.penriteoil.co.nz/products...d_products=340
    Vintage vehicles use this kind of run in oil.
    Just another leather clad Tinkerbell.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flip View Post
    Vintage vehicles use this kind of run in oil.
    Copied and pasted from the page the link went t.

    is suitable for use in passenger car, light commercial, competition vehicles and motorcycles. It is suitable for use for running in four stroke motorcycles with wet clutches and can be used with Petrol, LPG, E10, diesel & other conventional fuels.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kickaha View Post
    Some vehicles come factory with synthetic, it is not essential at all

    Those engines will make less power and have a shorter life then.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Woodman View Post
    Copied and pasted from the page the link went t.

    is suitable for use in passenger car, light commercial, competition vehicles and motorcycles. It is suitable for use for running in four stroke motorcycles with wet clutches and can be used with Petrol, LPG, E10, diesel & other conventional fuels.
    So what are you suggesting, would you use a high zinc running in oil as a long life motor oil?

    Penrite have traditionally made classic style motor oils more suitable for vintage vehicles. I have used their 20W60 oil (I got for free) in a side valve BMW motor but it was eye wateringly expensive compared to the bulk mixed fleet lube I use now days. I also did not believe (by very expensive independent testing) that their oils met the requirements of SAE only that they believed it did, but I might be wrong.
    Just another leather clad Tinkerbell.
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    Quote Originally Posted by bsasuper View Post
    Those engines will make less power and have a shorter life then.
    Yes they will,because I am sure the likes of BMW and Mercedes know a lot less about this than you do
    "If you can make black marks on a straight from the time you turn out of a corner until the braking point of the next turn, then you have enough power."


    Quote Originally Posted by scracha View Post
    Even BP would shy away from cleaning up a sidecar oil spill.
    Quote Originally Posted by Warren Zevon
    Send Lawyers, guns and money, the shit has hit the fan

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kickaha View Post
    Yes they will,because I am sure the likes of BMW and Mercedes know a lot less about this than you do
    Dubious....But i'm all in favour of using a straight mineral for break in on a rebuilt/rebored motor. Given the traditional cast iron liners and a chrome top ring - features common to everything up till nicasil bores became common - trying to get rings to bed using straight synthetic has frequently been a frustrating exercise.

    The big manufacturers can get away with straight synthetic in new motors as they also use surface coatings which assist break in - a feature notably lacking on rebored cylinders...

    kick - we both remember a certain ZZR1100 which would never bed rings due to the owner being told by his oil supplier that the top of the line synthetic race oil would be just fine to bed rings in with.......

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