Oh yeah there's the 4th project is dig the old get out having no really used it.
No8 Wire Extraordinaire
Oh yeah there's the 4th project is dig the old get out having no really used it.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
Forum whore
Yup , makes sense to meOriginally Posted by F5 Dave
My neighbours diary says I have boundary issues
No8 Wire Extraordinaire
Bloody tablet. EGT I meant the EGT.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
Was worth a crack
OK have finished porting the cylinder and setting the timing. Last time out the calcs said 32hp at the crank and it made 27hp at the wheel, this time the calcs are showing almost 42hp which would be 35hp at the wheel.
I guess we'll see if the carb rule chokes it down. It won't be ready for Hampton downs but all going well it will get its pre GP shakedown at Taupo
Bucket Racer/Crasher
41.9 "if" you forget about the vertical angles on the transfers. Bit of scaremongering never hurt anybody though, eh Kel?
Was worth a crack
My secondary transfer have always been set at 0 deg, but you are right about not setting the boost to 55 degOh well that's all the excuse I needed to lift the transfer to the full 132deg.
Theres no reason that those power figures aren't achievable, its more along the lines of how the bloody hell will I keep it cool enough to finish a race
No8 Wire Extraordinaire
Move the go to June Taupo
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
Was worth a crack
Dave, you need to stop drinking so early in the day
No8 Wire Extraordinaire
Friigin Tablet keep auto correcting. I'd already had to re-correct Taupo
Move the GP to June. The GP.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
i'm a wanker
hope you did not give it to much blow up time , oops i mean blow down time lol
Gee Pee aRgh
wobbly - this almost sounds like someones going to get free bloweys for life..... weather you want them or notthis time the calcs are showing almost 42hp which would be 35hp at the wheel
Was worth a crack
Slow progress going on here, but progress none the less.
Crank has been rebuilt (thanks Rob for your time and patience). Unfortunately I ended up having to use the same length rod that was being used previously as the longer genuine Yamaha rod had no slots at the big end, WTF. So the trusty TKRJ 100mm rod has gone back in but with an RGV flat cage big end bearing.
Coated piston is back.
Cost $97 for coating to skirt and ceramic coating to crown. Turns out all that's need for the squish band mask is the heavy type of vinyl that sign writers use, oh well we know for next time.
One of the problems with getting real power out of the KE is the inlet area, i.e. the rotary disc is too small.
Seems we have solved the problem.
Its a custom disc made to the max size for the original disc cover!
The Oring of the disc cover will need to be machined out meaning sealing will just be from sealant around the outer edge of the cover which isn't ideal.
The mod is worth an extra couple of horsepower, or more to the point the inlet time area can now match the rest of the motors timing.
Still some more grinding to do in the cases but Im getting there.
p.s. This is buckets as it should be; epoxy, grinding, bouncing around ideas with your mates, and some back yard engineering. Not a bolt up kit part to be found.
Low personal B.M.E.P.
What are you making the disc from ? Have you got a broach for the splines or wirecut ? Any chance of a couple of discs (well oversize...) to play with ?
Oh, if you really want to go oldschool, a cutoff disc of the right width, used under running water works to cut the lube slots. Light hone in the eye afterwards to clean up. Done it several times in the distant past, never had the case flake.
Was worth a crack
Disc's are made from spring steel, sorry don't have any spares, just enough for the three engines. You can get them from these guys http://www.maranello-engineering.com...44da7085f7856e .
We thought about slotting the rod but figured the DT125 rods are cheap enough just to buy in a couple of the right type.
Anorak
You are right Kel, so in that spirit I will share this with you and I guess everyone else.
This is a 1976 Kawasaki KE175 Disk Valve set up.
They have a longer stroke than your Ke125. and a much bigger disk diameter
The earlier 125's and the 250 twin also have the longer stroke I am pretty sure they might to have a larger valve. (99% sure in the case of the twin 250)
I think the earlier valves are Fibre though.
The specs are 118 Disk 119.2 outer housing OD and 120mm O-Ring
Many euro Guys are successfully using Disk valves made from Skill saw blades.
Mr Paykart recommends .6mm clearance. But you probably knew that already.
This may provide a better sealing solution with a drill and re-tap of the mounting holes.
If you or Rob want to do a measure up of one, before I start hacking it'd be happy to send it up for a look as long as I got it back in a week or so after.
The rest of the pics are off ebay.
Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken
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