Leaky buildings. Thinking of buying a post '95 home? Own one?

[Swoop]

Also. If you are having repair work done DO NOT touch "Linea" weatherboards from James Hardie. This is another product that will be in the news...
If you want weatherboards on your house, use real timber.

Oh dear. Look what is in the news... It also mentions the deals (sorry, "settlements") made out of court.
http://www.nzherald.co.nz/business/n...ectid=11411847

[Laava]

Oh dear. Look what is in the news... It also mentions the deals (sorry, "settlements") made out of court.
http://www.nzherald.co.nz/business/n...ectid=11411847

Intersting that the article never makes mention of what the actual issues are with it. I have lined loads of houses with Linea and have heard of batch lots delaminating but have not seen it myself. It is made exactly the same way as all the other Hardie cement/ fibre products as well.
Be intersting to see if there is a basis for this claim or is it just some architect being extremely pedantic?

[ellipsis]

Intersting that the article never makes mention of what the actual issues are with it. I have lined loads of houses with Linea and have heard of batch lots delaminating but have not seen it myself. It is made exactly the same way as all the other Hardie cement/ fibre products as well.
Be intersting to see if there is a basis for this claim or is it just some architect being extremely pedantic?

...like Swoop, I have had grave misgivings about clients wanting it, but the customer is always right...right!...I have not used any for years now...I refuse...I saw jointing problems appearing within months of putting the stuff up... my bro had to strip his house of it entirely as it had blown in many places as well as the joints, his district council actually stopped it being used until the manufacturers could prove it's product to them and helped him get reimbursed...some areas may be worse than others due to climate...if it is a batch related type of thing, then all the more reason to avoid...

[dangerous]

Intersting that the article never makes mention of what the actual issues are with it. I have lined loads of houses with Linea and have heard of batch lots delaminating but have not seen it myself. It is made exactly the same way as all the other Hardie cement/ fibre products as well.
Be intersting to see if there is a basis for this claim or is it just some architect being extremely pedantic?

IMHO... issues rehydrating, swelling and delamanation, the material just wants to return to its natural form, like the memory of steel. Its man made compresed and cooked, once on a building add paint and then the weather hits wet and heat the shit swells and falls apart... give me farking asbestos anyday

[Laava]

...like Swoop, I have had grave misgivings about clients wanting it, but the customer is always right...right!...I have not used any for years now...I refuse...I saw jointing problems appearing within months of putting the stuff up... my bro had to strip his house of it entirely as it had blown in many places as well as the joints, his district council actually stopped it being used until the manufacturers could prove it's product to them and helped him get reimbursed...some areas may be worse than others due to climate...if it is a batch related type of thing, then all the more reason to avoid...

IMHO... issues rehydrating, swelling and delamanation, the material just wants to return to its natural form, like the memory of steel. Its man made compresed and cooked, once on a building add paint and then the weather hits wet and heat the shit swells and falls apart... give me farking asbestos anyday

I have not seen this happen yet although I have heard of some sort of issue with delamination. Pine weatherboards I have used have been much more problematic, esp where they are fingerjointed.
And lets face it, who can afford cedar these days?

So what would you guys rather use? As far as I know, every product you can buy has it's drawbacks. We just did our place in shadowclad and there are multiple problems that can rear their heads if you are not very careful.

[flyingcrocodile46]

Intersting that the article never makes mention of what the actual issues are with it. I have lined loads of houses with Linea and have heard

The claim against CHH won't have anything to do with Linea (a JH product). IMO (as a professional expert witness in leaky home claims) it most likely relates to direct fixed CHH flat sheet products such as Shadowclad. Most likely the real evidence of failure relates to junctions to windows, other cladding etc. Though there is a chance that CHH fingerjointed weatherboard features in some failures. I imagine the real failures will be generic to the type of cladding system rather than a genuine product specific failure (such as was the case with the old JH Harditex system or earlier products/systems such as Weatherside sheets and weatherboard).

Though I don't like or recommend Hardies products generally (mostly flat sheet systems), aside from some teething and batch problems, I don't think that Linea weatherboard is a worse product that some timber weatherboard cladding (i.e some Finger jointed timber, rusticated profile boards and vertical shiplap). If Linea is installed properly on a well constructed cavity it's probably a better than average bet. Don't think I'd recommend it (or any cladding system) for direct fix though.

[Ocean1]

I have not seen this happen yet although I have heard of some sort of issue with delamination. Pine weatherboards I have used have been much more problematic, esp where they are fingerjointed.
And lets face it, who can afford cedar these days?

So what would you guys rather use? As far as I know, every product you can buy has it's drawbacks. We just did our place in shadowclad and there are multiple problems that can rear their heads if you are not very careful.

A friend is a naval architect. I've seen him fondle a length of genuine Yankee Oregon, actually giggling in delight as he worked out how he was going to use it. I gave him a hand one day, picking up some timber from the local retailer. We had to give up, nothing was good enough for him, every piece we looked at had faults he just wasn't prepared to accept. He was really upset, it was for a project he wanted done for a birthday present.

Now this guy is no prima donna, he really knows his timber, and he wasn't asking for anything unreasonable, just good quality treewood. Some of his issues were with obvious deficiencies in drying, a few with multiple shakes, splits and knots but his biggest bitch was how it'd been cut. Even pine, he said should be cut so that as much as possible is radial cut. He reckoned many of the faults would have been OK if the cutting plan had been better and the stuff had been dried properly. The bit extra that's wasted by radial cutting is for boxing, he reckoned.

He'd spotted some Cedar cladding near where we'd just trashed several ton of neatly stacked framing timber and he was as angry as I've ever seen him. Bloody rubbish, he said, look, it's cupping as we watch. And he was right, I pity whoever bought it because there's simply no way it was ever going to be anything but a heart breaking fuckup.

I've since adopted Bruce's highly qualified opinion on timber quality, as a result of which I've given up even bothering with anything from the local Mitre 10 or Bunnings for anything more than garden boxes. If it's worth doing at all then it's worth the extra cost of finding proper stuff, difficult as that's become.

Oh, my last two houses have been brick. Which has it's potential problems, but they tend to be apocalyptic, as opposed to decay.

[flyingcrocodile46]

IMHO... issues rehydrating, swelling and delamanation, the material just wants to return to its natural form, like the memory of steel. Its man made compresed and cooked, once on a building add paint and then the weather hits wet and heat the shit swells and falls apart... give me farking asbestos anyday

If it remains wet for extended periods the wood fibre (which replaced the asbestos fibres) decays and the product becomes mega brittle, (cracking on corners and around fixings). Similar brittleness (carbonation rather than decay) occurs as a result of long term unprotected (unpainted) exposure to the sun (without getting wet).

FC manufacturers experience batch problems from time to time. A good test of sheet products (Ply and FC) is to wet the outer face (and let it dry) before installing. The expansion/movement differential on the outer face that is caused by the wetting will often reveal poor product lamination (big blisters). Better to find out on the stack rather than the wall. Tough to carry out when the product is pre-sealed though.

[dangerous]

I have not seen this happen yet although I have heard of some sort of issue with delamination. Pine weatherboards I have used have been much more problematic, esp where they are fingerjointed.
And lets face it, who can afford cedar these days?

So what would you guys rather use? As far as I know, every product you can buy has it's drawbacks. We just did our place in shadowclad and there are multiple problems that can rear their heads if you are not very careful.

yes every product does have its draw backs granted, but I believe natural products will and do last longer, hardies products I have seen fail time after time, I will add tho house maintance or the lack of has defnitly not helped ie: lack of paint, plants left to grow onto etc

shadow clad... thats the rough sawn ply aye? if so yeah that shit will out last cement fiber by a long shot... but i will say it is loaded with sianide arsnik etc to the max, working with it is bad news, hate to be around it in a fire.

I've since adopted Bruce's highly qualified opinion on timber quality, as a result of which I've given up even bothering with anything from the local Mitre 10 or Bunnings for anything more than garden boxes. If it's worth doing at all then it's worth the extra cost of finding proper stuff, difficult as that's become.

yeah... grown to fast, good luck in your hunt for the right timber.

If it remains wet for extended periods the wood fibre (which replaced the asbestos fibres) decays and the product becomes mega brittle, (cracking on corners and around fixings). Similar brittleness (carbonation rather than decay) occurs as a result of long term unprotected (unpainted) exposure to the sun (without getting wet).

FC manufacturers experience batch problems from time to time. A good test of sheet products (Ply and FC) is to wet the outer face (and let it dry) before installing. The expansion/movement differential on the outer face that is caused by the wetting will often reveal poor product lamination (big blisters). Better to find out on the stack rather than the wall. Tough to carry out when the product is pre-sealed though.

yes and yes, you talk great sence and no your shit, My last job was building all JH houses, I saw these packs you mention but fuk me if it wasent obvious till after it was installed. I believe stacking incorectly after being made did not help matters... well so the JH reps from NZ and OZ told me.

[flyingcrocodile46]

yes every product does have its draw backs granted, but I believe natural products will and do last longer, hardies products I have seen fail time after time, I will add tho house maintance or the lack of has defnitly not helped ie: lack of paint, plants left to grow onto etc

shadow clad... thats the rough sawn ply aye? if so yeah that shit will out last cement fiber by a long shot... but i will say it is loaded with sianide arsnik etc to the max, working with it is bad news, hate to be around it in a fire.

CCA (Copper Chromate Arsenic.. or some such) isn't used to treat plywood much. Certainly not Shadow clad (as it turns it green and some people don't like that) It comes in bandsawn finish and smooth machined finish with T&G lookalike grooved options.

[ellipsis]

...if houses had a four foot eave this constipation wouldn't be happening...

[dangerous]

CCA (Copper Chromate Arsenic.. or some such) isn't used to treat plywood much. Certainly not Shadow clad (as it turns it green and some people don't like that) It comes in bandsawn finish and smooth machined finish with T&G lookalike grooved options.

ahh yes sorry makes sence... well every time i have worked with shadow clad I come up in a mean as rash its farking horrid this must be your CCA at work, as above it cant be good for you.

[unstuck]

ahh yes sorry makes sence... well every time i have worked with shadow clad I come up in a mean as rash its farking horrid this must be your CCA at work, as above it cant be good for you.

I get the same when working with timber that has been treated with copper naphthenate, drives ya farking mad.
Anybody got any recommendations on where to buy roofing membrane at a reasonable price? Prefer 500mm wide sheets, but have the means to join if I have to. The shit in a tin is bollocks I recon.

[dangerous]

I get the same when working with timber that has been treated with copper naphthenate, drives ya farking mad.
Anybody got any recommendations on where to buy roofing membrane at a reasonable price? Prefer 500mm wide sheets, but have the means to join if I have to. The shit in a tin is bollocks I recon.

roofing membrane? butanol? mate, in Gore Id thought ya just go shoot a shammy or 5 and grandma would sew em together theres ya roofing membrane

[unstuck]

roofing membrane? butanol? mate, in Gore Id thought ya just go shoot a shammy or 5 and grandma would sew em together theres ya roofing membrane

Chamois are up the coast at my brothers place.

More what Im after.