Increasing oil capacity?

[R650R]

Firstly what are your current service intervals and what do you want to stretch them out to??? Is it a cost factor or time spent doing oil change factor?
I find the old chook chasers one of the most easiest bikes ever to oil change on.

Although I can see benefits of extra oil and cooling in some cases like Martys KTM 530 I think in yours it overkill and best dealt to by using full synthetic and changing less often.
Remember the reason why we change oil? It gets contaminated by petrol and breaks down with exposure to excess heat and it holds dirt sucked past the air filter in suspension so its removed on the drain.

Some of the Aussie roadtrains have a system that siphons off a litre of engine oil every xxxxkm's and blends it with diesel to burn in engine and injects a fresh clean one litre from reserve into engine at same time. This extends service interval and improves fuel economy.

I use Belray Thumper Synthetic and it only stays in the engine for 3000-3500km depending on where the bikes been and filter at same time too.

[husaberg]

As an aside there are clutch covers available that would increase the oil capacity try Rekluse.

Rekluse offers clutch covers for many models. Constructed of billet aluminum for increased strength and durability, the clutch cover is deeper than stock to allowing a greater volume of oil in the engine. The cover also allows you to use a stock gasket with the z-Start Pro Clutch instead of the provided thicker gasket.

http://rekluse.mybigcommerce.com/clu...model-fitment/
$159 USD.
if the cover is 150mm dia and is only 5mm deeper that's 40ml if the oil is half way up it.

Thus depending on the set up not sure where the clutch pivot is etc you could make a spacer say 15 mm thicker with Gaskets either side longer bolts.

no worries.

[Tazz]

Yes it worked well on the Xr250
The XR400 has one twice as deep.But only half as cute.
Does the WR share the oil with the gearbox.
Attachment 311350Attachment 311349
The additional cooling remember comes from the external oil lines and the fact the oil is not always in a hot crankcase.
Put you hand on a crankcase after a ride.

Yeah shared oil, also has a clutch that produces more heat than standard.
The lines were in my mind when I asked that, as in 'I wonder if it would work the same with just the lines' haha.
Cool that it's effective despite the size though.

Pretty sure the catch can is not designed to recirculate the oil, just 'catch' the oil that is usually recirculated into the airbox and reburnt.

A mod on some of the old Guzzis was a deeper sump so the engine held more oil.

Not 100% sold on it, saw it here http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/915...cooler-wr450f/ and it just raised more questions than answering anything. As far as I am aware it's still fitted, and the bikes still running too

Not afraid to try something different than the norm, so long as it's not too left field as guinea pigs lead an expensive lifestyle in more ways than one.

Ha, Yeah I thought it was a little weird when you said 1l oil capacity You traded up the raleigh 20 on something else then ?
I had to keep a close eye on the oil in the 350 and it was a bastard to check accurately. Could tell by sound when it needed a wee top up though

You need a couple of minutes spare at the start of the day to do it properly. If it's raining I just check to make sure there is something on there at all and call it good haha

I think anything else is a sidestep from something that simple, but yeah on a trail basis. Bit of a step up in power
Ironically I was quite keen on something better on the highway, but slow, while I'm ending up doing rougher and rougher tracks once I got off it at the same time. How the hell do you solve that one 250R's look pretty ideal but $$$.

if you are going to fit a cooler plumb it in on the oil return side that way there is no problem with start up,
having extra oil capacity will not increase your service interval, oil will get contaminated or break down at the same rate no matter
the quantity, its the quality of the oil that helps with extending the service interval, my new car has a service every 15000 km
and that's to do with the type of oil its runs.......
hope that helps clear things up

Hmm, if I didn't know you I almost wouldn't believe that haha. Just seems to go against logic that increased capacity wouldn't slow down deterioration. I suppose at the end of the day it's still being circulated at the same rate which may be the key?

Do you guys do oil analysis?

I looked into the long life filters mentioned above (cheers Gadget) but can't find any applicable to the WR. I have a metal reusable one for another bike if that's what you mean, but I've been using paper filters instead of it for some reason I can't remember..

[Gadget1]

I looked into the long life filters mentioned above (cheers Gadget) but can't find any applicable to the WR. I have a metal reusable one for another bike if that's what you mean, but I've been using paper filters instead of it for some reason I can't remember..

The metal filters (stainless) provide cooling as well:http://www.motoxparts.co.nz/p/yamaha...teel-moto-flow

[R650R]

The metal filters (stainless) provide cooling as well:http://www.motoxparts.co.nz/p/yamaha...teel-moto-flow

I looked up that filter and I'm curious as to where the heat goes in this alledged cooling process. Heat doesn't flow from one hot place to another hot place.
Add in the factor of there usually being a rubber o-ring at either end of the filter and it being submersed in oil internally inside the crankcase it just doesn't make sense...

[jonbuoy]

I don´t know if its the cost or the hassle of oil changing that's putting you off - but you can get some small hand pumps that would fit in your luggage to suck most of the oil out of the engine - still leaves all the crap at the bottom though. You could suck out the majority of the oil and do a full change every other time.

[unstuck]

Asking advice on KB............

[Night Falcon]

Firstly what are your current service intervals and what do you want to stretch them out to??? Is it a cost factor or time spent doing oil change factor?
I find the old chook chasers one of the most easiest bikes ever to oil change on.

Although I can see benefits of extra oil and cooling in some cases like Martys KTM 530 I think in yours it overkill and best dealt to by using full synthetic and changing less often.
Remember the reason why we change oil? It gets contaminated by petrol and breaks down with exposure to excess heat and it holds dirt sucked past the air filter in suspension so its removed on the drain.

Some of the Aussie roadtrains have a system that siphons off a litre of engine oil every xxxxkm's and blends it with diesel to burn in engine and injects a fresh clean one litre from reserve into engine at same time. This extends service interval and improves fuel economy.

I use Belray Thumper Synthetic and it only stays in the engine for 3000-3500km depending on where the bikes been and filter at same time too.

The only reason I forked out for one on the 530 (and they aint cheap) was its split oil system. The engine side only has 600mls of oil; absolutely fine for an EXC's intended use but I wanted a bit more oil life for longer adventure riding. The HTR oil cooler almost doubles the engine side oil capacity. The gearbox side holds 900mls so isn't a problem.

[ducatijim]

Dang.....
Can you believe the crap some folk want to waste their short lives worrying bout?

[Tazz]

I don´t know if its the cost or the hassle of oil changing that's putting you off - but you can get some small hand pumps that would fit in your luggage to suck most of the oil out of the engine - still leaves all the crap at the bottom though. You could suck out the majority of the oil and do a full change every other time.

The hassle and time of doing it mid trip. Even if you doubled the service interval with double the oil....it would still cost you the same. On that token even with double the oil I'd be happier with 1.5x the interval, which would cost more.

A 1L oil change in itself isn't a pain. I used to do 9L every 5000km in my last vehicle. That was a pain, especially when I spilled it on a 2 day old concrete driveway, but it wasn't on the side of the road potentially every second day while I was fanging around.

Recommended interval is 1000km, some people do it every 5 hours or 500kms and valves at 1000kms. I wouldn't even make it to Dunedin. I don't know how some people manage to commute on these sorts of bikes.

It's an incredibly popular thing to do, I guess mainly overseas, but doing something different with a bike is not anything new.

I bet all of the negative/lazy comments are from people who have changed multiple things from how their bike came factory. Pack racks aren't factory, carrying luggage is not specifically designed for 90% of bikes. Bubble screens, race modifications, heated grips, different seats, changing the suspension. Get over it.

The only reason I forked out for one on the 530 (and they aint cheap) was its split oil system. The engine side only has 600mls of oil; absolutely fine for an EXC's intended use but I wanted a bit more oil life for longer adventure riding. The HTR oil cooler almost doubles the engine side oil capacity. The gearbox side holds 900mls so isn't a problem.

Yep same boat here. I don't feel like it's being pedantic as once it's done it's done and you have piece of mind. The HTR is still easily cheaper than a rebuild!
Split oil is better imo, then you can get two oils that are specifically good at their two different tasks rather than one all rounder.

I have seen some trick ones that are built into bash plates but the HTR is one of the coolest designs I reckon. Obviously the downside is they are very bike specific, and only KaTooMs?

That said I'm going to look into what kiwibul said regarding the quantity not really making a difference. If that is the case then there is no point in touching it, just live with it and tick it up as one of the cons of running engines that are strung a bit tight on the road as well as off.

Asking advice on KB............

I still have faith that it can improve. A lot of old 'tech' threads around that aren't full of people posting to see their own avatar that are still handy. This section is usually pretty good as a rule
I probably don't help by being prickly and coming off as a bit of a long winded know all cunt, but I have enough friends

[Night Falcon]

Dang.....
Can you believe the crap some folk want to waste their short lives worrying bout?

that's the point.....once its sorted you'll find you don't worry about it at all......but if you look, and not very hard, you can always find another worry or two to replace the oil one.......will adjusting the clickers really be enough or should I get heavier fork springs

[Gadget1]

that's the point.....once its sorted you'll find you don't worry about it at all......but if you look, and not very hard, you can always find another worry or two to replace the oil one.......will adjusting the clickers really be enough or should I get heavier fork springs

Playing around with set ups etc is all part of the fun.

[Flip]

Simple.

Just use one of these extended cast alloy finned sumps. They only cost $100 but you do have to fit an extension to the oil pump pick up pipe which is a bit of a pain but easily done with a little easyflow.

The other great thing is they are finned so help to keep the oil colder.

[Grumph]

I went to the seminar when the first 425/450 came out - and was very surprised at the short change intervals recommended.
I raised the point of a customer riding to an event, as i knew of a couple who would do it. It was suggested they change oil at the lunch break....

FWIW my own suggestion is increase the capacity by inserting an additional tank between the existing oil in frame tank and the motor. If the add tank is below the frame one, it'll feed the pump just fine. finding room could be a problem though.

What we were told was that the steering head bearings MUST use high melting point grease - as it is attatched to the oil tank area which gets ferking hot....

[jonbuoy]

Strange with that short of an interval they don´t make it easier with a quick drain valve or something. Shame these don´t come in smaller sizes:


http://www.stahlbus-us.com/oil-drain...l-drain-valve/