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Thread: 1986 gsxr1100g

  1. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by jasonu View Post
    Relisted. I hope he gets his asking price.
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Suzuki-GSX-R...002655?vxp=mtr
    It would owe aprox $NZ17-18,000 on the road if it were imported here, thats a lot for a US spec one without the factory exhaust,
    Im sure they will come to that, but theyre not there yet.

  2. #92
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    Quote Originally Posted by jasonu View Post
    Relisted. I hope he gets his asking price.
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Suzuki-GSX-R...002655?vxp=mtr
    I've had two in that colour scheme. Tis my least fav.

  3. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by sidecar bob View Post
    It would owe aprox $NZ17-18,000 on the road if it were imported here, thats a lot for a US spec one without the factory exhaust,
    Im sure they will come to that, but theyre not there yet.
    What's the spec. difference between the Yank and NZ bikes? The California models have some emissions control stuff but apart from that I thought they were pretty much the same.

  4. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by jasonu View Post
    What's the spec. difference between the Yank and NZ bikes? The California models have some emissions control stuff but apart from that I thought they were pretty much the same.
    Big blinkers, side reflectors, different tank vent, evaporative emission control on carbs, MPH speedo, no headlamp switch (permanently on)
    Mine is US spec, but been in NZ long enough to have a black number plate.
    I will convert the blinkers to Jap spec & toss all the Evap shit when its turn comes for a tidy up.

  5. #95
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    Quote Originally Posted by sidecar bob View Post
    Big blinkers, side reflectors, different tank vent, evaporative emission control on carbs, MPH speedo, no headlamp switch (permanently on)
    Mine is US spec, but been in NZ long enough to have a black number plate.
    I will convert the blinkers to Jap spec & toss all the Evap shit when its turn comes for a tidy up.
    Totally diff tank shape too. I much prefer the US shape. I want one!

  6. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by Crasherfromwayback View Post
    Totally diff tank shape too. I much prefer the US shape. I want one!
    Really? My US spec G has the same tank as my nz new jap spec chassis number 000003 (third one ever built) had, the H or J is more sloped at the rear. Or am I about to learn something?

  7. #97
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    Quote Originally Posted by sidecar bob View Post
    Really? My US spec G has the same tank as my nz new jap spec chassis number 000003 (third one ever built) had, the H or J is more sloped at the rear. Or am I about to learn something?
    Check the profile at the rear.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    US ones are more curved.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  8. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by Crasherfromwayback View Post
    Check the profile at the rear.


    US ones are more curved.
    W.i.b.f. I just compared photos of my 00003 bike to my current US spec & they are different.
    I couldn't work out why I couldn't ride the US bike with my elbow on the tank, chin in hand like I rode my first bike for hours at a time without my elbow slipping down towards me. I thought it was due to the different material jacket.
    I prefer the jap tank, but it's all about what means the most to me from back in the day.

  9. #99
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    I did a couple of base runs on the dyno and here is the sheet. It has quite a dip in the 5-6k rpm range (running rich? I live at 3500ft above sea level)
    The Suzuki spec says it had 130hp at the crank when new. Allowing for sales bullshit in reality I think it would have had around 120-125 crank hp when new. I guess the drive train eats around 15%+- so my 102hp isn't too bad for an old bike. It did smoke a fair amount from the exhaust while being caned on the dyno and it does eat a small amount of engine oil when being ridden.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  10. #100
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    Quote Originally Posted by jasonu View Post
    What's the spec. difference between the Yank and NZ bikes? .

    US bikes are set up as left hand drive like their cars.

  11. #101
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    That peak is about par for the course. Can't remember if yours has a stock pipe or aftermarket ?
    That dip is characteristic 4:1 pipe with CV carbs. They just can't make up their mind what to do there...the resonances go all to fuck.
    It's often still there witn flatslides but much much less.

    Best dyno I ever saw was an 1100L Modified Mini sprint speedway motor. Dead stock internally except for a good 3 angle valve job and dialled cams.
    Methanol, 39 FCR Keihins and a pipe - 148hp at the wheels at just under 10 grand.

  12. #102
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    Quote Originally Posted by jasonu View Post
    I did a couple of base runs on the dyno and here is the sheet. It has quite a dip in the 5-6k rpm range (running rich? I live at 3500ft above sea level)
    The Suzuki spec says it had 130hp at the crank when new. Allowing for sales bullshit in reality I think it would have had around 120-125 crank hp when new. I guess the drive train eats around 15%+- so my 102hp isn't too bad for an old bike. It did smoke a fair amount from the exhaust while being caned on the dyno and it does eat a small amount of engine oil when being ridden.
    The std exhaust on my slabbie is incredibly heavy and restrictive. I've just fitted a period correct Kerker. Saved around 10kgs and gained lots of torque.

  13. #103
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grumph View Post
    That peak is about par for the course. Can't remember if yours has a stock pipe or aftermarket ?
    That dip is characteristic 4:1 pipe with CV carbs. They just can't make up their mind what to do there...the resonances go all to fuck.
    It's often still there witn flatslides but much much less.

    Best dyno I ever saw was an 1100L Modified Mini sprint speedway motor. Dead stock internally except for a good 3 angle valve job and dialled cams.
    Methanol, 39 FCR Keihins and a pipe - 148hp at the wheels at just under 10 grand.
    Quote Originally Posted by Crasherfromwayback View Post
    The std exhaust on my slabbie is incredibly heavy and restrictive. I've just fitted a period correct Kerker. Saved around 10kgs and gained lots of torque.
    Yes my bike is completely stock except for a K&N air filter in the stock airbox and, good or bad, that is the way I like it. The dyno guy suggested the pipe is a likely cause of the dip along with the slides possibly being a little slow to react. Looks like I am stuck with what I got...
    How about a picture of the kerker?

  14. #104
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    Quote Originally Posted by jasonu View Post
    Yes my bike is completely stock and, good or bad, that is the way I like it. The dyno guy suggested the pipe is a likely cause of the dip along with the slides possibly being a little slow to react. Looks like I am stuck with what I got...
    How about a picture of the kerker?
    My dad had a 750 that was tuned for a full Yoshi system. Thing went great. After a crash the headers got a bit twisted, and a huge hole appeared at about 3500rpm. Perhaps they're just really sensitive to exhaust flow, and yours is a bit blocked up.

    Just a thought.

  15. #105
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drew View Post
    My dad had a 750 that was tuned for a full Yoshi system. Thing went great. After a crash the headers got a bit twisted, and a huge hole appeared at about 3500rpm. Perhaps they're just really sensitive to exhaust flow, and yours is a bit blocked up.

    Just a thought.
    Fair point. The dyno guy suggested the smoke might be build up in the exhaust. Hard for me to give it the thrashing it would take to clear it though. No local race track and lotsa cops.

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