New headlight tech

[eldog]

MEMs gyro and accelrometers, combination thereof are call 6dof IMUs https://www.google.co.nz/search?q=sp...CtC8zD0gS9nbZg

You could just use a single axis gyro, but you really need the accelerometers to make it go back to zero.



You'd probably want a soft fill when they turn on, unexpected bright lights may do as much harm as help.

I reckon just put the whole reflector assembly on a bushing within the bucket, and servo drive it.

Multiple reed switches, one for each level
or a pivoting shield covering extra LEDs
some sort of LED shield between lights and outside of lamp to stop light passing through
KISS otherwise later

[nzspokes]

You could wire them into the pass light switch so you are not lighting up the trees on high beam.

[eldog]

You could wire them into the pass light switch so you are not lighting up the trees on high beam.

High beam usually wired to hi/low dimmer switch and pass, would need to separate or add separate switch/relay for extra lights, if you don't want them to operate together.

my hi beam doesn't light up that many trees, and I don't go fast enough to warrant using the pass light.

[Gremlin]

Sounds like a good system, well worth the effort....... BMW or Honda??

Custom... on the BMW

[eldog]

Custom... on the BMW

Custom #2 = me, but not a BMer

its. A mod I planned from the outset, awesome! Can see into the corners much better
just got a few adjustments once it starts getting darker at night.....

Hi beam a relevation

[nzspokes]

High beam usually wired to hi/low dimmer switch and pass, would need to separate or add separate switch/relay for extra lights, if you don't want them to operate together.

my hi beam doesn't light up that many trees, and I don't go fast enough to warrant using the pass light.

Pass switch is easy to breach and connect into. Probably solder onto the switch itself and use LED spots.

[BMWST?]

pass switch is just a momentary switch for high beam

[eldog]

Pass switch is easy to breach and connect into. Probably solder onto the switch itself and use LED spots.

I didn't have too, just added my stuff over the top of the current wiring

minimum fuss and keeps the bike as std as possible.

easy to adjust light levels for each setting: dim, high and MAX

power draw minimal - has delayed startup to help battery start the bike.

can remove and retrofit to another bike anytime, as wouldn't get money/time back selling it with the bike.

IMHO: I think the original post setup has merit

Something most bikes could do with is a decent light setup so you can see the corners.

[Tazz]

You could wire them into the pass light switch so you are not lighting up the trees on high beam.

Does your pass switch dim when you hold, or go full beam when you hold? If it goes full beam when you hold, I don't understand why you would wire any AUX lighting like that?

It is piss easy to wire into the high beams. You don't need to touch the swtich, however you have to be mindful of what the switch is rated to manage as you can burn them out, especially on older bike (from what I have read anyway).

If you are adding a lot of wattage it is not hard but worth the time to wire things in correctly with suitable wiring. For small things you can get away with existing wiring. LEDs are awesome for this, massive output for draw compared to halos or HIDs, whoop whoop!

[bogan]

Does your pass switch dim when you hold, or go full beam when you hold? If it goes full beam when you hold, I don't understand why you would wire any AUX lighting like that?

It is piss easy to wire into the high beams. You don't need to touch the swtich, however you have to be mindful of what the switch is rated to manage as you can burn them out, especially on older bike (from what I have read anyway).

If you are adding a lot of wattage it is not hard but worth the time to wire things in correctly with suitable wiring. For small things you can get away with existing wiring. LEDs are awesome for this, massive output for draw compared to halos or HIDs, whoop whoop!

That's what I was thinking, clearly it's illegal to do it that way anyway, so you may as well just wire spots/fills to your high beam circuit and be done with it. Hook the additional ones up through a relay and fuse. Or just get something suited for the actual job like the thingo in post 1.

[nzspokes]

Does your pass switch dim when you hold, or go full beam when you hold? If it goes full beam when you hold, I don't understand why you would wire any AUX lighting like that?

It is piss easy to wire into the high beams. You don't need to touch the swtich, however you have to be mindful of what the switch is rated to manage as you can burn them out, especially on older bike (from what I have read anyway).

If you are adding a lot of wattage it is not hard but worth the time to wire things in correctly with suitable wiring. For small things you can get away with existing wiring. LEDs are awesome for this, massive output for draw compared to halos or HIDs, whoop whoop!

On my Bandit it lights the highbeam leaving the low still on. Yes would use LEDs.

[Tazz]

That's what I was thinking, clearly it's illegal to do it that way anyway, so you may as well just wire spots/fills to your high beam circuit and be done with it. Hook the additional ones up through a relay and fuse. Or just get something suited for the actual job like the thingo in post 1.

You can have lights wired to a separate switch if you call them work lamps from memory. Have posted about it before.

Wasn't the pictured bike but I had one for a WOF on a separate circuit which was discussed briefly before I got to expand my sticker collection.

[Tazz]

On my Bandit it lights the highbeam leaving the low still on. Yes would use LEDs.

So you would have to hold the switch whenever you wanted to use them. Fark that, I need a free hand to update my twatter and sip my latte (seriously though, you'd be better just to put a proper on off switch on it. Actually thinking about it the last ones I wired I have wired to high and then on a separate switch as well so both high and the switch have to be on to have the extra lights going. Best of both worlds. Did it that way as I was concerned about the drain at the time.)

[bogan]

You can have lights wired to a separate switch if you call them work lamps from memory. Have posted about it before.

Wasn't the pictured bike but I had one for a WOF on a separate circuit which was discussed briefly before I got to expand my sticker collection.

Yeh, I'd be surprised if they counted the high beam as a separate switch that could be disconnected and used for other things is all. It'd want to be a momentary switch too, otherwise you'd have two things to switch off when you notice oncoming traffic...

[nzspokes]

So you would have to hold the switch whenever you wanted to use them. Fark that, I need a free hand to update my twatter and sip my latte (seriously though, you'd be better just to put a proper on off switch on it. Actually thinking about it the last ones I wired I have wired to high and then on a separate switch as well so both high and the switch have to be on to have the extra lights going. Best of both worlds. Did it that way as I was concerned about the drain at the time.)

As they would only be needed from time to time and I dont need to see possums in trees I think it could work.