House buying

[HenryDorsetCase]

What would you guys do if you were me?

1. Who cares it's compliant. Just buy it.
2. Nego price down.
3. Ask the vendor to fix it.
4. Walk away.

Is the fire wall construction above mentioned like minor issues on bikes which you can live by? e.g. Awkwardly positioned handlebar mirror which shows your elbow a lot more than behind.

I know there are worse houses in NZ.

Am I thinking too much? Or is it something I should definitely be cautious of?

2 first then 1 then 3. As long as it has insurance who cares.

is the firewall the wall between the house and the garage (which is what it looks like) or is it an intertenancy wall between you and the meth lab in the next door flat? One is not great but not bad, one is very bad indeed.

[EJK]

2 first then 1 then 3. As long as it has insurance who cares.

is the firewall the wall between the house and the garage (which is what it looks like) or is it an intertenancy wall between you and the meth lab in the next door flat? One is not great but not bad, one is very bad indeed.

The house inspector said the area in question is in the roof space at the top of the wall between the two dwellings. So, near roof?

[jim.cox]

Firstly I would not be buying a joined unit - far too many potential problems - look at what has happened with such units in the case of the Chch quake and the leaky buildings fiasco - then think about maintenance issues like roofing and gutters and assume the mongrel mob next door aren't going to do any.

But if you must...

If its really is the firewall between you and the meth lab next door then 1 is not an option - it needs to be sorted properly

Find who signed off the certificate

Then take your evidence and discuss the matter with their boss

[sidecar bob]

What would you guys do if you were me?

1. Who cares it's compliant. Just buy it.
2. Nego price down.
3. Ask the vendor to fix it.
4. Walk away.

Is the fire wall construction above mentioned like minor issues on bikes which you can live by? e.g. Awkwardly positioned handlebar mirror which shows your elbow a lot more than behind.

I know there are worse houses in NZ.

Am I thinking too much? Or is it something I should definitely be cautious of?

There are enough good properties for sale that you don't need to buy a shitter.
I looked at several hundred before I bought my second to last investment one.
The decision to buy it was made within 7 minutes of stepping on to the property because it was the one.
Don't get tunnel vision, there will be others & you will consider yourself fortunate to have walked away from potential cans of worms.

[HenryDorsetCase]

The house inspector said the area in question is in the roof space at the top of the wall between the two dwellings. So, near roof?

Soooo if it is a multi unit dwelling then each unit is a fire cell. Fire cells must by definition contain a fire within them for a stipulated time. If the fire wall is faulty (by not extending up to (or indeed through) the roofline, then you have a real issue. In the context of your sale and purchase that is or may be a deal breaker. How many units joined up are there ? what are the OTHER unit firewalls like? Who was the fire engineer that signed it off? (council property file) How did it get code compliance? Assuming that really is an inter tenancy fire wall.

Potentially this is really imfuckingportant.

[EJK]

Soooo if it is a multi unit dwelling then each unit is a fire cell. Fire cells must by definition contain a fire within them for a stipulated time. If the fire wall is faulty (by not extending up to (or indeed through) the roofline, then you have a real issue. In the context of your sale and purchase that is or may be a deal breaker. How many units joined up are there ? what are the OTHER unit firewalls like? Who was the fire engineer that signed it off? (council property file) How did it get code compliance? Assuming that really is an inter tenancy fire wall.

Potentially this is really imfuckingportant.

Yes you have it right. It's a 2 level 6 units block. The report does not say about joints/ fitting issues. God knows what other unit's firewalls are like. The compliance was ticked off for the whole block (A to E) so I assume the firewall inspector guy from the council swung by during building process and ticked the boxes as he glimpsed. Again, issue identified was "not fully plastered". That alone doesn't really put me off tbh. Everything else including foundation, guttering, drainage, window sills, humidity checks, weatherproofing, roof etc passed with flying colors.

I'll get back to my lawyer and if it can be patched up under builder's warranty and re-nego price if I have to.

Unfortunately within my price range (both affordability and bank's pre-approval) I'm somewhat limited to "good to have" options.

Hey, at least it's better than Akzle's meth soaked caravan, right?

[Laava]

You could buy a bucket of pre mixed plaster, climb up in there with a trowel and slap that shit on the joins, job done, would take fuck all time and money. Climb back down, sit on the sofa, slap the missus on the arse, and she will bring you a beer. Welcome to D.I.Y. The job, not the missus!

[BMWST?]

depending on the actual gib system being used a joint that is "not fully plastered" may not actually compromise the fire wall.Some gib fire systems are two layers of gib.If its in the top layer and the joint is badly plattered rather than mot plastered at all then it may make no difference to the performance.In a roof space no one will see it so if it looks a bit rude .....so what

[Ocean1]

'Scuse me for stomping on your thread R650R......

And yes the chilly bin thing has been one of the worst things to happen to building initially. Now they have it under control but it is still pretty awful.

What's the received wisdom re this, then?

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/List...?id=1259833989

Blurb describes cladding as "several systems". One of which is confirmed as polystyrene. Presumably all the white stuff to start with.

Hasn't sold after a fair while on the market, which is a pretty good indication that it's overpriced. Apparently doesn't leak, but I'm pickin' it's value is more or less RV minus the cost of replacing all the foam?

[Laava]

'Scuse me for stomping on your thread R650R......



What's the received wisdom re this, then?

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/List...?id=1259833989

Blurb describes cladding as "several systems". One of which is confirmed as polystyrene. Presumably all the white stuff to start with.

Hasn't sold after a fair while on the market, which is a pretty good indication that it's overpriced. Apparently doesn't leak, but I'm pickin' it's value is more or less RV minus the cost of replacing all the foam?

Yep, that comes under the buyer beware label then. Didn't see the same blurb as you tho? Anyway in the room where there is a hideous curved step down, there looks to be a nasty stain on the carpet. Wonder what that is about?

[Ocean1]

Yep, that comes under the buyer beware label then. Didn't see the same blurb as you tho? Anyway in the room where there is a hideous curved step down, there looks to be a nasty stain on the carpet. Wonder what that is about?

Think it's just dirt/wear. It's been rented for at least six months and there's apparently a bit of scary deferred maintenance of some sort that's put prospective buyers off.

And yeah, there's more blurb on other sites.

PS: they're adamant it's never had a leak. I'm not aware if there's an inspection/report supporting that but the existence or otherwise of such would be a good indication...

PPS: what would you replace the foam with? Anything else that thick, (to suite the window/door reveal depth) is going to be heavier than the framing can handle innit? Or do you use 30mm battens and marine ply?

[Laava]

PPS: what would you replace the foam with? Anything else that thick, (to suite the window/door reveal depth) is going to be heavier than the framing can handle innit? Or do you use 30mm battens and marine ply?

I am a big fan of Shadowclad, but you need to buy the unprimed stuff and paint it with a stiff brush so you can really scrub in the undercoat and at first topcoat. Done properly it is very durable and modern looking. And yes, on a cavity. There are a number of composite aluminium cladding systems avail now, none of which I have used...I quite like Hebel for a monolithic finish, but it needs to be planned for rather than used as a reclad in general terms. I would love to get involved with a straw bale or rammed earth wall house but I think there is a good reason they are not mainstream. Mainly cos of how long it takes...

[Ocean1]

I am a big fan of Shadowclad, but you need to buy the unprimed stuff and paint it with a stiff brush so you can really scrub in the undercoat and at first topcoat. Done properly it is very durable and modern looking. And yes, on a cavity. There are a number of composite aluminium cladding systems avail now, none of which I have used...I quite like Hebel for a monolithic finish, but it needs to be planned for rather than used as a reclad in general terms. I would love to get involved with a straw bale or rammed earth wall house but I think there is a good reason they are not mainstream. Mainly cos of how long it takes...

There's one up the road. Short straw cafe: https: //www.facebook.com/ShortStrawCafe/ Toasty warm in winter.

Would worry me the same as styrene, though, if the waterproof skin is punctured you're in trouble, and you won't know about until it's fairly big trouble.

I used some bamboo fibre/recycled plastic decking for a low retaining wall a few years ago, is there a cladding equivalent? Any good?

[Laava]

There's one up the road. Short straw cafe: https: //www.facebook.com/ShortStrawCafe/ Toasty warm in winter.

Would worry me the same as styrene, though, if the waterproof skin is punctured you're in trouble, and you won't know about until it's fairly big trouble.

I used some bamboo fibre/recycled plastic decking for a low retaining wall a few years ago, is there a cladding equivalent? Any good?

Yep, a y monolithic has only the paint as a water barrier, so the substrate needs to be substantial. The only straw bale house I have seen in whangarei has a big wrap around verandah right the way round. It is a beautiful product done properly.
Not aware of any composite plastic wall claddings, plastic is liable to be very thermally sensitive. I had a house with Palliside weatherboards and when the sun hit it you could hear it creaking as it expanded.

[Ocean1]

Yep, a y monolithic has only the paint as a water barrier, so the substrate needs to be substantial. The only straw bale house I have seen in whangarei has a big wrap around verandah right the way round. It is a beautiful product done properly.
Not aware of any composite plastic wall claddings, plastic is liable to be very thermally sensitive. I had a house with Palliside weatherboards and when the sun hit it you could hear it creaking as it expanded.

Aye, you absolutely can't beat having a roof substantially bigger than the house for peace of mind.

I see Thermosash's blurb re ACP panels mentions fire rated versions: http://www.thermosash.co.nz/m_ACM.aspx

Presumably the very stuff that wasn't applied to all them tenements in Blighty.