ESE's works engine tuner

[katinas]

Havoc 100 cc cylinder made with attention to EX cooling.

[TZ350]

Cully and Ellie

Red line is where the Team ESE's bog standard 150cc 4S was at when this picture was taken at the Tokoroa GP .....



Blue line is where its at now after playing with the CVT's rollers and springs. Roll on the next meeting at Whangarei.......

[TZ350]

We are looking at resurrecting this old four stroke two stroke hybrid project.

The sidecar with a 28hp two stroke motor and CVT could be real exciting.

[ken seeber]

Look what I saw on a particular KTM 300EXC TPI today.





Is this a special commemorative model ?? Who knows.

Maybe if someone has a buddy at KTM, they could ask them.

Such a mystery..

[DaisyB]

We are looking at resurrecting this old four stroke two stroke hybrid project.

The sidecar with a 28hp two stroke motor and CVT could be real exciting.

This one with 42bhp (Gilera Runner 180) was sure fun! Annoyed quite a few big classic chairs along the way.

[TZ350]

This one with 42bhp (Gilera Runner 180) was sure fun!



Annoyed quite a few big classic chairs along the way.

Great Fun........ I love it.



Now to find some Gilera 125's. Should be able to de stroke them to 110 easily enough. Seems to be plenty of after market tuning parts available.

[mprestwi]

Hello gentlemen, well since there appears to be a slight lull in the action I thought I might take the opportunity to jump in. I have been following this thread with awe for some time now and am totally amazed by the geniuses and brain trust contributing. I am incredibly grateful for the shared knowledge, have learned a lot and want to learn more.

Anyway as I sit in Northern Canada waiting for the snow to recede (more than my hairline). I thought I’d pose a question I have a few others tucked away but figured no sense unloading all at once.

In the interest of keeping things cool are there any other good tips on reducing thermal migration besides what was already mentioned about insulating ceramic coatings? I know F1 have been doing some of this.

I’ve included a pic of a few things I’ve done to my RZ to try and help. Added a red silicone baking sheet to the frame to isolate pipe heat from the crankcase and added RC motor heatsinks to the pipes with thermal paste to keep the first few inches of the pipe cool (learned that great piece of advice on this blog). One thing you can’t notice is the titanium flange nuts holding on the pipes. I used them because the thermal conductivity is less than steel (or stainless). That should (in theory at least) reduce the heat path from the pipe flange, through the nuts, along the studs and into the cylinder. Not much I’m sure but I’m thinking all the little bits help and might add up to something.

Other pic shows my oil filler plug heat pipe dragging oil heat up from the depths to dump it out to ambient. Uses acetone as the working fluid due to it’s low boiling point. Geez I hope I did this right and attached the pics properly. First time posters always have issues.

Anyway any other tips would be great. I apologize if his may have been covered in detail before but I have only been able to sift through about 500 pages of this gem of a discussion so far.

[F5 Dave]

Look what I saw on a particular KTM 300EXC TPI today.





Is this a special commemorative model ?? Who knows.

Maybe if someone has a buddy at KTM, they could ask them.

Such a mystery..

Hahahaha

Nice one, made me laugh and laugh.

[TerraRoot]

This one with 42bhp (Gilera Runner 180) was sure fun! Annoyed quite a few big classic chairs along the way.

42bhp! got 20bhp at the wheel for mine, but with stock ports, just barrel height adjustment. felt the 180 was quite alot like the yamaha 350, large bore squished in transfers.
so did you manage 42bhp with the stock reed valve? haha

[peewee]

Hello gentlemen, well since there appears to be a slight lull in the action I thought I might take the opportunity to jump in. I have been following this thread with awe for some time now and am totally amazed by the geniuses and brain trust contributing. I am incredibly grateful for the shared knowledge, have learned a lot and want to learn more.

Anyway as I sit in Northern Canada waiting for the snow to recede (more than my hairline). I thought I’d pose a question I have a few others tucked away but figured no sense unloading all at once.

In the interest of keeping things cool are there any other good tips on reducing thermal migration besides what was already mentioned about insulating ceramic coatings? I know F1 have been doing some of this.

I’ve included a pic of a few things I’ve done to my RZ to try and help. Added a red silicone baking sheet to the frame to isolate pipe heat from the crankcase and added RC motor heatsinks to the pipes with thermal paste to keep the first few inches of the pipe cool (learned that great piece of advice on this blog). One thing you can’t notice is the titanium flange nuts holding on the pipes. I used them because the thermal conductivity is less than steel (or stainless). That should (in theory at least) reduce the heat path from the pipe flange, through the nuts, along the studs and into the cylinder. Not much I’m sure but I’m thinking all the little bits help and might add up to something.

Other pic shows my oil filler plug heat pipe dragging oil heat up from the depths to dump it out to ambient. Uses acetone as the working fluid due to it’s low boiling point. Geez I hope I did this right and attached the pics properly. First time posters always have issues.

Anyway any other tips would be great. I apologize if his may have been covered in detail before but I have only been able to sift through about 500 pages of this gem of a discussion so far.

you might be able to use heat reflecting tape in some areas. i bought some and eventually will bench test it to see how well it work. my reason for trying it is ive got aluminum fuel tank behind the radiators and above the cyl head. so its soaking up heat from several directions

[Grumph]

you might be able to use heat reflecting tape in some areas. i bought some and eventually will bench test it to see how well it work. my reason for trying it is ive got aluminum fuel tank behind the radiators and above the cyl head. so its soaking up heat from several directions

Yoshimura used to use an insulating mat under their tanks. I believe it's the same stuff used on the floors of NASCAR cars to try and keep the drivers boots from melting. US made - should be available from race suppliers.

[mprestwi]

Thanks for the tips gentlemen. I am also toying with the idea of a method to heat shroud the intake from warm air.

[speedpro]

I had a similar concern with a turbo Z1 engined bike. Very very hot engine with the turbo just behind, all parked beneath 15L of fuel. Went with a white blanket of high temp insulation between layers of foil tape. All up about 10mm thick. The insulation was incredible and could withstand a blow torch according to the brochure. Had a little framework on the bottom of the tank which it slipped into. Had a similar setup on the turbo exhaust outlet but with fibreglass tape over the insulation and held in place with a mesh guard. It took the worst of the heat off my left leg. Road race, not drag race.
I would also think some well polished thin shield with a small airgap would be effective. Something like very thin stainless steel.

[136kg136ps]

My turbo and oil filters were too close to my air intake on my fishing boat due to a very cramped engine room.Turbo heat shields are another option.
This stuff can be really close to exhausts without scorching.


https://www.heatshieldproducts.com/m...eld-insulation

[DaisyB]

42bhp! got 20bhp at the wheel for mine, but with stock ports, just barrel height adjustment. felt the 180 was quite alot like the yamaha 350, large bore squished in transfers.
so did you manage 42bhp with the stock reed valve? haha

Not quite stock! Pm Tuning 172 barrel -transfers welded and re-shaped, stroked to 55, RD350 Vforce4 reed (just a whiff of welding!) Tillotson 34 carb & a Jahspeed blown pipe. (Which really shouldn't have worked but did)