Tales from the Emporium

[Crisis management]

There are some shorter front guards available for the DR (I have no idea where from) which I read about on adv rider. Primarily their use was to reduce high speed wobbles generated by the friggin big thing that sticks out the front. I recall seeing these in NZ but it was some time ago.

Anywho....what I mean is that there is an afternmarket guard that you can butcher without spending a fortune.

[cooneyr]

There are some shorter front guards available for the DR (I have no idea where from) which I read about on adv rider. Primarily their use was to reduce high speed wobbles generated by the friggin big thing that sticks out the front. I recall seeing these in NZ but it was some time ago.

Anywho....what I mean is that there is an afternmarket guard that you can butcher without spending a fortune.

When I crashed my DR250 Gerbel way back when I got a Acerbis front guard which was a universal fit as you had to drill holes in it yourself (piece of cake). It was about $60 from Pitlane and was a wider and longer version than the "normal" DR version which was almost exactly the same as the Gerbel's original. Buggered if I can remember what it was called though.

Cheers R

[NordieBoy]

There are some shorter front guards available for the DR (I have no idea where from) which I read about on adv rider. Primarily their use was to reduce high speed wobbles generated by the friggin big thing that sticks out the front. I recall seeing these in NZ but it was some time ago.

All the motard guards (Acerbis, UFO, Polisport) are shorter but the same width and depth so no advantage there and they're only suited to road use.

[warewolf]

Then of course i'd need to strengthen or brace the guard to compensate.

Primarily their use was to reduce high speed wobbles generated by the friggin big thing that sticks out the front.

Fender brace should sort both issues.

[cooneyr]

Back to sprocket ratios. I've been playing with some numbers to get an idea of the effect of various ratios. I though others might be interested in seeing some calcs. I've run the 15/41 ratio and like it for open gravel road bashing i.e. molesworth and seal riding but find it a little high for tight and steep riding. My bike came with a 14 tooth CS sprocket so I've been playing with that for a while now and while it is nice for the tighter stuff I don't like so much it for the on road/molesworth riding.

Given that the two ratios I know about are 15/41 and 14/41 I've put together a spreadsheet (image of attached) that calcs ratios of various options and then the percentage change from stock and also the percentage of the 14/41 effect.

Personally I want to stick with larger sprockets as they wear the chain less and weight difference is not that important to me. Also I want to achieve about 50% of the 15/41 to 14/41 effect I think i.e. I want the last column to be about 50%. The closest two possible options are therefore either 4 or 7 on the attachment. This is 15/43 or 16/45.

Transalper and I had talked about the 15/43 before as Suzuki make a 43 rear for the freewind that bolts straight on (TA has one). I understand that a 16 CS sprocket is available as Far Que has one. Rear sprocket options are limitless thanks to the chain gang in ausi.

So defiantly going to give 15/43 ago when I replace the drive train in November.

Hope all this dribble makes sense

Cheers R

[NordieBoy]

Hmmm, the US one should come with a 42t rear as opposed to the Aus/NZ spec 41t rear.

[cooneyr]

Hmmm, the US one should come with a 42t rear as opposed to the Aus/NZ spec 41t rear.

Pretty sure it is a 41 but I'll check tonight. Your never going to figure out what spec my bike is LOL.

R

[Transalper]

Go too big at the rear and you have to mess with the chain guide, also bigger on the front may see your top chain roller vanish as mine has with a previous owner.
In my case i suspect the roller broke off while bottoming the suspension with the bike in the factory lowered position while only having a 14/43 setup.

I doo like 15/43 for general adventuring and highway use.

[cooneyr]

Go too big at the rear and you have to mess with the chain guide, also bigger on the front may see your top chain roller vanish as mine has with a previous owner.
In my case i suspect the roller broke off while bottoming the suspension with the bike in the factory lowered position while only having a 14/43 setup.

Thats another reason why I like the 15/43 ratio. Same size front at standard and 43 rear works (as you know ). 16 front and greater and 44 rear and greater were just playing to see what the ratios are.

Cheers R

[NordieBoy]

I think 45t rear is the biggest you can go with the stock rear chain guide.

[NordieBoy]

In my case i suspect the roller broke off while bottoming the suspension with the bike in the factory lowered position while only having a 14/43 setup.

If the roller breaks off then it leaves a large hole in the frame.
I've pulled mine before it has a chance to do any damage.

Although I could stand on it in the shed one day and arse over...

[Crisis management]

My bike had a 46 tooth rear when I got it, no way was the chain guide going to fit with that arrangement (lower plate had been removed from the guide). I fitted a 43 tooth and that allows the plate to be refitted, there is about 3mm clearance from the plate with the chain correctly tensioned.
You should be able to go to 44 teeth and still retain the plate but it would be the limit IMO.

[cooneyr]

My bike had a 46 tooth rear when I got it, no way was the chain guide going to fit with that arrangement (lower plate had been removed from the guide). I fitted a 43 tooth and that allows the plate to be refitted, there is about 3mm clearance from the plate with the chain correctly tensioned.
You should be able to go to 44 teeth and still retain the plate but it would be the limit IMO.

I think Far Que is running a 44 with the stock guide and has commented that it is the largest you can go to.

Cheers R

[Transalper]

Jessie sells an after market adjustable guide to suit bigger sprockets... and I know all about the hole left when the roller breaks off, do you want a photo of it?

[warewolf]

Personally I want to stick with larger sprockets as they wear the chain less and weight difference is not that important to me.

Sorry but that one's not an issue. I've seen the numbers; some fella sat down with a 'puter and did the maths on the smaller sprockets, it was minuscule numbers that got lost in the other variables.

Smaller sprockets mean typically less weight¹, less inertia in the drive train, a shorter and therefore lighter chain... and on your bike, going bigger has issues with the chain guide as already mentioned. Note that going too small on the front can cause chain guide issues on the front of the swingarm, too.

[1] 48T KTM steel sprocket is lighter than their 42T.