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Thread: Disc-brake steel?

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by pete376403 View Post
    Two landrover flywheels (cast iron) were cut, turned and ground down to become BMW disks and they worked VERY well, far better than the original stainless ones, even in the wet.
    I did something similar with a BMW R75/7 I owned, but I used Hillman Hunter car discs and had a toolmaker machine them to suit
    "If you can make black marks on a straight from the time you turn out of a corner until the braking point of the next turn, then you have enough power."


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    Even BP would shy away from cleaning up a sidecar oil spill.
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  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ocean1 View Post
    I wasn't suggesting you could make the complete assembly for $25, I was suggesting the OE supplier probably makes the bare disks for about that.

    Hence the reference to the first being a lost-leader, pure R&D overhead.
    Umm... gotcha. Jeez, I can be slow on the uptake sometimes!
    "Safety Cameras" Yeah, right!

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by pete376403 View Post
    ...they had all sorts of large and fancy metalworking machinery. Two landrover flywheels (cast iron) were cut, turned and ground down to become BMW disks and they worked VERY well, far better than the original stainless ones, even in the wet.
    That's bloody clever! I like it!
    "Safety Cameras" Yeah, right!

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by CADanimal View Post
    Umm... gotcha. Jeez, I can be slow on the uptake sometimes!
    Me too. Hadn't noticed the relevance of your avatar.

    Solidworks?
    Go soothingly on the grease mud, as there lurks the skid demon

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ocean1 View Post
    Me too. Hadn't noticed the relevance of your avatar.

    Solidworks?
    Thanks! It's long overdue for a replacement, but I like it.

    It was done in Inventor. I don't have a Solidworks license, but I do a huge amount of onsite CAD work for clients that do use it. I have Inventor on my own computers. I don't have any particular preference between the two products. They both yield the result my clients need. Transfer to dxf is easy in both, and they both integrate well with both Fagor and Fanuc CNC architecture. The only thing that regularly does my head in is switching between the two... exasperatedly hunting for Inventor commands in Solidworks, and vice versa.
    "Safety Cameras" Yeah, right!

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by CADanimal View Post
    Thanks! It's long overdue for a replacement, but I like it.

    It was done in Inventor. I don't have a Solidworks license, but I do a huge amount of onsite CAD work for clients that do use it. I have Inventor on my own computers. I don't have any particular preference between the two products. They both yield the result my clients need. Transfer to dxf is easy in both, and they both integrate well with both Fagor and Fanuc CNC architecture. The only thing that regularly does my head in is switching between the two... exasperatedly hunting for Inventor commands in Solidworks, and vice versa.
    I can sympathise, I switch between Rhino, NS10 and Acad. A lot of the shortcuts I've built into Rhino for editing are used for view changes in NS11, much chaos until the brain re-wires for a new project.
    Go soothingly on the grease mud, as there lurks the skid demon

  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ocean1 View Post
    I can sympathise, I switch between Rhino, NS10 and Acad. A lot of the shortcuts I've built into Rhino for editing are used for view changes in NS11, much chaos until the brain re-wires for a new project.
    I'm keen to explore Rhino and once of my clients has hinted at providing me with a license. How do you find it in terms of CAM interfacing?
    "Safety Cameras" Yeah, right!

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by CADanimal View Post
    I'm keen to explore Rhino and once of my clients has hinted at providing me with a license. How do you find it in terms of CAM interfacing?
    I don't own any CNC gear, I sub it all out so I don't have much experience with the various tweaks required by different gear. Most of the suppliers I use want straight dxf's, one or two like iges143, none of them have any problems with the flavours I send. In fact I get a little bit of translation work, someone gets sent say a Pro-E generated iges file but can't read/open it, so they send it to me and I stitch up all the nasty edges and deal with a few duplicate/bad entities and send it back.

    Rhino has a few shortfalls but I can read most formats and save 'em as almost anything. First thing to get your head around is it's a modified surface modeling app, not a solids based one (although it does that. V4 is just out, bunch of new stuff I could have done with last year (of course). It's better supported via dedicated forums than anything else, and bloody cheap at about $2K. Novel demo version, it's fully functional, but you get 25 "saves" and no more. Have a play: http://download.mcneel.com/eval/?p=25
    Go soothingly on the grease mud, as there lurks the skid demon

  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by imdying View Post
    A single top of the line Brembo HP disc would cost approximately $800 here, complete with mounts and buttons.
    One reason i watch Ebay and buy nearly everything out of the USA.

    I had considered snapping these up to get the rotors and buttons so i could machine some carriers to suit the 2006 GSXR wheel.
    That end price would have been under nz$300 to the door.

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Bremb...QQcmdZViewItem



    Anytime you want to see what part fits a model range,try http://www.ronayers.com/
    There is a ..Where does this part fit.. search feature based off the part number...fwiw

    I read once,excellent material for rotors was fire doors off steam locomotives after a ????? heat cycles.

  10. #40
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    Yeah, those are just regular rotors, not the HP ones. You saw that link on the zone for buttons out of Oz?

  11. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by imdying View Post
    Yeah, those are just regular rotors, not the HP ones. You saw that link on the zone for buttons out of Oz?

    What is a HP rotor,those ones in the Ebay link are the cast iron full floater's,cost here probably $1200/$1400 a pair.

    Unless i missed something.
    I saw the AU link,i would not buy anything off someone who takes a customers alloy frame and sets it down on the carpark tarmac to take pictures.
    Would you buy a brake item off someone who shows that much disrespect ?
    They should stick to show bikes that never see the road.
    I would think a set of floater buttons would be little more than 7000 series alloy,done on a CNC with the usual backing shim and circlip.
    They are nothing more than a tophat with a circlip groove.

  12. #42
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    Naw mate, followed the link, site way ghey (which I hate) so I closed the window. The Brembo HP range is their high end gear, here's a link to their gear on Yoyodyne http://www.yoyodyneti.com/Category.aspx?CategoryID=2989

    On the ground?!?! But yep, floater buttons are little more than you describe, you could definitely knock a set up

    Point is, even some of the best discs around are pretty cheap... you'd have to be in a pretty sticky situation before you'd go to the trouble of making your own.

  13. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by imdying View Post
    The Brembo HP range is their high end gear, here's a link to their gear on Yoyodyne http://www.yoyodyneti.com/Category.aspx?CategoryID=2989
    I think Vandriver posted a link to those on the Zone,is that material an improvement over cast iron.
    It looks like cheap stainless Maybe there was liability and wear issues with the cast iron longterm.
    Brembo has been doing cast iron motorcycle rotors for around 36 years that i can think of. (roadbikes)

  14. #44
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    I would expect them to be stainless. I'm a fan of cast iron myself, it took them (manufacturers) years to figure out how to get better performance out of stainless discs compared to the old cast iron

    http://www.brembo.com/ENG/HighPerfor...atingRotor.htm

  15. #45
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    so the bit that bolts on to the hub and the rotor have semi-circles that mate up and the buttons hold it all together? Just wanting to ask cos I know how it all works but not the nitty gritty. Do the hub bit and rotor press together and the buttons just stop side-to-side forces (not much in a straight setup) or do they take the whole load? Ho hard would it be to have a new hub bit made, get a stock rotor (or aftermarket rotor) and some buttons to get the party goin'? I ask cos I have scintered (sp?) pads and braided (legal) lines and don't want to go to twin disc because of cost and the std ones on my bike are heavy ish and while the faired model come out with twin discs they cost tons ($1000+ $'s) OEM for the parts and increase un-sprung weight. A larger diameter disc would be nice and the caliper locator for my bike is a flat plate so re-locating the caliper would be easy as.
    I'm selling my new riding gear!! Only worn a few times get a deal Kiwibikers!!
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