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Thread: Chain oil

  1. #31
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    26th April 2007 - 20:50
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    My Scottoiler just does the job, km after km, cool eh! I love it! Clean green oiling machine. Cheers
    When you take thousands of photos of your bike does the light from the flash weaken the plastic?

  2. #32
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    26th February 2005 - 11:00
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    Quote Originally Posted by warewolf View Post
    $40 in 50-odd thousand kays. How much did you spend on beer?

    A few years ago, my fave shop ran out of ScottOil, couldn't get any till the next boat arrived. So they sent their last bottle off to their friend who worked for a large oil company with a request: analyse this, find us a reasonably close substitute. They came up empty-handed, the stuff is quite a cocktail and nothing off the shelf comes close.

    One particular component mentioned aided wicking so that the oil would move from the delivered to the far side of the chain. Forgotten the rest. There were two or three more unusual things (or combinations) noted.
    I know who you are referring to.

    A few years ago Scott started providing 2 viscosity's of oil,one for summer and one for winter.This was to compensate for some oilers that did not have the range of flow control to adjust for the change in viscosity that occurs when the weather cools
    I have been told this may be due to wear in the oiler or in the tooling they use to manufacture the oilers.Either way the oiler will deliver too much oil in the summer if you don't switch to the higher viscosity oil.

    I used the lower viscosity oil in my own oilers,as did another user of one of my oilers and we both found it did not lube as well as the original Scott oil did - chain wore noticeably faster.

    I can use virtually any viscosity of motor or gear oil in my oilers,due to the wide range of flow control available.
    I personally use a 25% / 75% mix of kerosene and 20 w motor oil.
    The kero seem to promote capillary action of the lube into the chain before it evaporates ,leaving the 20w behind.

    I also deliver the oil to the chain via brush


    PS: according to DID the prefered method of lubrication for high speed chain lubrication is by permenantly installed brush, keeps the oil more evenly applied over the roller surface. I did do that once on a trials bike I used mostly for trail riding but managed to rip it off and loose it about the 3rd ride...
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  3. #33
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    1st July 2007 - 17:40
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    Hi Pixie

    So you have a scottoiler (brand) dripping on to a homemade brush feeder.
    That looks excellent.

  4. #34
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    15th August 2004 - 17:52
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pixie View Post
    I personally use a 25% / 75% mix of kerosene and 20 w motor oil.
    The kero seem to promote capillary action of the lube into the chain before it evaporates ,leaving the 20w behind.

    I also deliver the oil to the chain via brush
    Looks like a great setup, can you post some more pics, please? Does the delivery tube just abut the bristles?

    Presently I have the dripper hitting the side of the rear sprocket, so the oil flings off the sprocket onto the chain. Having the dripper in the air in front of the sprocket just seems to fling the oil into the wheel.
    Cheers,
    Colin

    Quote Originally Posted by Steve McQueen
    All racers I know aren't in it for the money. They race because it's something inside of them... They're not courting death. They're courting being alive.

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Coldrider View Post
    Hi Pixie

    So you have a scottoiler (brand) dripping on to a homemade brush feeder.
    That looks excellent.
    No
    A pixie oiler
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  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by warewolf View Post
    Looks like a great setup, can you post some more pics, please? Does the delivery tube just abut the bristles?

    Presently I have the dripper hitting the side of the rear sprocket, so the oil flings off the sprocket onto the chain. Having the dripper in the air in front of the sprocket just seems to fling the oil into the wheel.
    The brush assembly introduces the oil into the center of the bristle cluster via a fine brass tube

  7. #37
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    1st July 2007 - 17:40
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    Oki Doki, to reverse engineer your P'ixie' oiler, you have a oil reservoir, feeding to a one way pnuematic valve (two way one bunged off), activated by 12 volts to the solenoid (to stop the flow when ignition is off ) with a fine manual control, then to the brush arrangement. Relying on gravity to feed down to the chain.
    So simple, and considerably cheaper than a scott oiler.
    You need to collect royalties. I can make one up tonight.

  8. #38
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    26th April 2007 - 16:57
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    Hi

    I had a good run with a scottoiler on the old RG500, saves cash and saves
    the dreaded bike stand ritual.
    I believe it's installation installation installation.
    Then all you do is adjust the oil discharge and it's "o" for awesome!

    Have seen a bike shop do a dodgy install as well as friends do it.
    In the bike shops case the injector got caught in the backwheel
    and now the person hates them - as well as the shop

    Have one scottoiler left, may either fit it to my daily use RG50 or maybe the Bimota but room is a problem on the latter.

    Cheer

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