Jump-starting bikes?

**Grahameeboy** · 14th November 2007, 12:42

Originally Posted by Mikkel

Thanks a bunch fellas!

V-Twins are not easy to jump start.....

If you use a car with jump leads, don't have the car engine running like you would have car and car. I was told you can damage the bike battery.

**Paul in NZ** · 14th November 2007, 13:01

ONLY jump / bump start a modern bike if you have to and NEVER make a habit of it... Bike electrical systems are seldom as robust as car ones and it's a GREAT way to wreck your rectifier/regulator/alternator/ignition.

If the bikes having charging or starting issues - resolve the issue, don't keep flogging a dying system or it will fail!

Up to you of course....

**Paul in NZ** · 14th November 2007, 13:07

Originally Posted by Grahameeboy

V-Twins are not easy to jump start.....

If you use a car with jump leads, don't have the car engine running like you would have car and car. I was told you can damage the bike battery.

If it has a staggered firing order (like lump lump pause lump lump pause) put it in gear and push it forward through the two close compressions. Pull it backwards (ign off) to the compression, pull in the clutch (say 2nd gear) turn on ignition and push until you have a lick of speed on and leap onto the seat side saddle - as your arse hits the seat pop the clutch and get ready to catch the engine on the throttle when it fires.... Slip clutch, left foot onto peg, swing right leg over seat and ride away cool as a cucumber to outpatients for hernia treatment - easy...

**Grahameeboy** · 14th November 2007, 13:10

Originally Posted by Paul in NZ

If it has a staggered firing order (like lump lump pause lump lump pause) put it in gear and push it forward through the two close compressions. Pull it backwards (ign off) to the compression, pull in the clutch (say 2nd gear) turn on ignition and push until you have a lick of speed on and leap onto the seat side saddle - as your arse hits the seat pop the clutch and get ready to catch the engine on the throttle when it fires.... Slip clutch, left foot onto peg, swing right leg over seat and ride away cool as a cucumber to outpatients for hernia treatment - easy...

Even fat arse Boomer could'nt do it....trick was to park my bike, got a lift home, got car, jump leads etc. Ride bike home and walk back to car to collect later.......

Too old to be getting my leg over twins to get them into action!!!!!

**skelstar** · 14th November 2007, 13:48

I know flame had a team of young men trying to bump start her bike (RSV1000) downhill, but it would just lock the back wheel up. Had to settle for jump-starting of a GSXR. I'll not even bother with trying to do it myself.

**xwhatsit** · 14th November 2007, 13:59

Bah it's not that hard. Even with yooooj high compression thumpers it can be done. Just learn what happens in the four-stroke/Otto cycle and then you'll know what to do.

It's just a knack to learn, like kickstarting an old Brit; pansy boys with their modern electric starts and power-ranger suits don't seem bothered to learn about what's going on inside their bikes.

Why not get an AA membership in that case.

Christ I sound like my father

**mitchilin** · 14th November 2007, 17:39

Originally Posted by Paul in NZ

If it has a staggered firing order (like lump lump pause lump lump pause) put it in gear and push it forward through the two close compressions. Pull it backwards (ign off) to the compression, pull in the clutch (say 2nd gear) turn on ignition and push until you have a lick of speed on and leap onto the seat side saddle - as your arse hits the seat pop the clutch and get ready to catch the engine on the throttle when it fires.... Slip clutch, left foot onto peg, swing right leg over seat and ride away cool as a cucumber to outpatients for hernia treatment - easy...

That's a great description.I used to see how far I could ride sidesaddle because I was so knackered I couldn't get my leg back over and I thought it looked kinda cool riding around like that.Nowadays I can sit on the Katana and push two or three steps and pop it like a two stroke.The first fifty times are the hardest.After that you just learn exactly what to do.

**mitchilin** · 14th November 2007, 17:43

Originally Posted by xerxesdaphat

Bah it's not that hard. Even with yooooj high compression thumpers it can be done. Just learn what happens in the four-stroke/Otto cycle and then you'll know what to do.

It's just a knack to learn, like kickstarting an old Brit; pansy boys with their modern electric starts and power-ranger suits don't seem bothered to learn about what's going on inside their bikes.

Why not get an AA membership in that case.

Christ I sound like my father

Don't know about that mate.I could never bump my old DR 500.Had enough trouble kicking it.

**Paul in NZ** · 14th November 2007, 19:41

Originally Posted by skelstar

I know flame had a team of young men trying to bump start her bike (RSV1000) downhill, but it would just lock the back wheel up. Had to settle for jump-starting of a GSXR. I'll not even bother with trying to do it myself.

If I can bump start my Moto Guzzi at 3am at the servo at Bulls in the pissing rain when it has a weeks luggage aboard and I've just ridden from Auckland I'd be prepared to try and bump an 'pillia... mind you - the seats a bit taller and I'm not

**smoky** · 14th November 2007, 19:56

Originally Posted by Paul in NZ

If it has a staggered firing order (like lump lump pause lump lump pause) put it in gear and push it forward through the two close compressions. Pull it backwards (ign off) to the compression, pull in the clutch (say 2nd gear) turn on ignition and push until you have a lick of speed on and leap onto the seat side saddle - as your arse hits the seat pop the clutch and get ready to catch the engine on the throttle when it fires.... Slip clutch, left foot onto peg, swing right leg over seat and ride away cool as a cucumber to outpatients for hernia treatment - easy...

just be careful which leg you throw over - or you'll be facing the wrong way

**Max Preload** · 14th November 2007, 20:11

Originally Posted by mdooher

My ST2 (No kick and electronic ignition) has one of those cigarette type connectors. I normally connect my trickle charger to this. I have made up a lead that goes into this thing and has battery clips on the other.

Is that a factory fitment? If it is, I'd be surprised if it's live with the ignition off.

Originally Posted by nodrog

2nd gear is a better option for push starting. and if jump starting a bike with a car i always use computer proof leads and never have the car running, just to avoid any damage due to voltage spikes.

Not necessary if you follow the correct procedure. With the donor vehicle and the dead vehicle swtched completely switched off, connect the positive dead to the positive donor battery, in that order. Then connect the negative donor terminal to a good connection point on the chassis of the dead vehicle (footpeg is good on a bike - you can connect directly to the negative terminal but there's a risk of sparks on disconnection igniting the charging gases).

Start the donor vehicle, hold the revs up to about 1/3 of redline, then start the dead vehicle.

Removal of jumper leads is in the reverse order of connection.

**johnnyflash** · 14th November 2007, 20:19

Much depends on the bike, many of the larger cc bikes have slipper clutches, (to deal to kickback on starter motor)and trying to crash start one of those is difficult, (not impossible but..) much simpler to use a jump lead and another battery or vehicle.. bikes dont draw much current compared to a car or truck so the leands dont need to be heavy at all..

**smoky** · 14th November 2007, 20:27

For some reason my bike won't start with a push - trust me I've started plenty of bikes in the past and couldn't understand why it wouldn't start.
I was talking to another biker a few weeks ago and he was telling me that his bike can't be bumped as you need 12volts to make the ignition circuit 'active' before anything will happen?
others tell me it's all tied up with the same safety circuits that won't let you start the bike with out pulling the clutch in, and kills the ignition system if you put the bike in gear with the stand down.

If you use jumper leads – there’s a couple of safety tips you should observe; have everything switched off (key off) when connecting the jumper leads
Always make the connection to the bike first then connect the live to the positive of the other vehicle, then connect the leads from the negative of the bike to the frame, or an earth bolt/nut, of the other vehicle – not the battery.
That way you avoid making any sparks around a battery. If there is a short or fault in the battery or bike, and there is some acid gas build up around the battery, and you make a spark - it can blow up in your face – not what you want.

Hope that helps

**Max Preload** · 14th November 2007, 20:29

Originally Posted by johnnyflash

Much depends on the bike, many of the larger cc bikes have slipper clutches, (to deal to kickback on starter motor)...

OTT but that's not what a slipper clutch is for - I think you're thinking of a sprag clutch. A slipper clutch is a torque limiting device to stop your rear wheel skipping on downshift while braking - it doesn't freewheel.

**Max Preload** · 14th November 2007, 20:37

Originally Posted by smoky

For some reason my bike won't start with a push - trust me I've started plenty of bikes in the past and couldn't understand why it wouldn't start.
I was talking to another biker a few weeks ago and he was telling me that his bike can't be bumped as you need 12volts to make the ignition circuit 'active' before anything will happen?
others tell me it's all tied up with the same safety circuits that won't let you start the bike with out pulling the clutch in, and kills the ignition system if you put the bike in gear with the stand down.

Some bikes are trickier than others, but I've never seen one that can't be crash started.

Originally Posted by smoky

If you use jumper leads – there’s a couple of safety tips you should observe; have everything switched off (key off) when connecting the jumper leads
Always make the connection to the bike first then connect the live to the positive of the other vehicle, then connect the leads from the negative of the bike to the frame, or an earth bolt/nut, of the other vehicle – not the battery.
That way you avoid making any sparks around a battery. If there is a short or fault in the battery or bike, and there is some acid gas build up around the battery, and you make a spark - it can blow up in your face – not what you want.

Wrong order. The negative to chassis is on the dead vehicle end, and the last connection made, and first removed.