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Thread: Riding overseas: Bali

  1. #1
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    30th July 2006 - 20:48
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    Riding overseas: Bali

    My last thead on 'riding with gangs' got a bit heavy so I thought I'd lighten it all up to see if KB'ers have any oversea's bike experiences.
    I lived in Bali for 4 years, yeah I know, bummer, but hey. I was working the boats back here in NZ and leasing a villa in the ricefields to the north of Kuta. really nice. It was always 2 months work in NZ and 4 months Bali, and coupled with the 15 years I have been going backwards and forwards chasing waves I've seen some mad things on the roads.

    Most people in Indonesia get around on bikes, mostly steppies but more recently fast steppies, 125cc 2 stroke 6 speed steppies that would leave a car for dead. I've been in Denpasar when there are illegal gatherings of these guys racing in the city. A 1km hard out stretch of road, on the picks and then back to the other end, and so on, round and round. They race until the cops turn up but by then there's 500 spectators and as soon as plod appears theres bikes going in every direction. These guys fang in jandals and t-shirts.

    Theres not many big bikes as the largest capacity Wayan is allowed is 200cc. There are some Harleys and the odd sport bike, but mostly for daily hire.....but expensive. Stay clear as the roads are too dodgy for these bigger bikes. Theres even a Balinese HOG club and I've seen some amazing old BMW's around, left over from the war, in pristine nick.

    The road from Kuta to Padang-bai, up the east coast to where the ferries leave to lombok is mad. From Kuta to gillimanuk on the west coast is worse. KBers would freak, its like a complusary defensive driving course every time you step out. I've been forced into the gravel many times as a there's 3 oncomming vehicles lined up all passing each other! The traffic density would rival anywhere in the world and as you head east the human obstacles give way to horse and cart and roaming animals. Go further into never-neverland, say Sumba, and the whole village will come out to meet you as you pass down narrow winding dusty paths.
    'Hello mister' rings in your ears throughout Indo.

    The kids stick their hands out to give you the high 5, make contact at 60kms and hell it hurts your hands, both the kid and you, yooouuch....

    The most people I've seen on a bike was 6. It was something like a C90. Me and a mate were off to surf Sumbawa, boards strapped on the side of the bikes and we came accross this family struggling to ascend this mountain pass somewhere near Bima. The son no1 was standing on the bike in-between dads legs, dad was driving, there was another smaller kid behind dad, then mum with a baby in a sarong draped off the side and then another older grommet on the back guard. Geese we got it lucky here. Hanging over the bike was 3 cages of chickens and all their belongings, it made a sight.

    I once had this pesky grommet from Whangamata want to follow me to scar reef on his bike through some mean tropical forest teaming with butterflys and 'micro' dust tracks. I found him crawling through the undergrowth an hour later after he failed to turn up, compound fracture and balling his eyes out. We were in the middle of absolutley fucking no-where. Another whole other story how I managed to get him out.....he vowd to never come back to Indo....he did have no respect that kid and didnt believe in Karma...silly boy.

    Geeze I've done so many hours on bikes over there I would ramble for ages.

    On the piss in Kuta, as you do, and the boys all head off to another watering hole through Jl padma's twisties, about 6 of us, going too fast. My mate goes down infront of me on the pea-gravel, sparks flying as I watch him straddle the side of his bike, almost surfiing the thing as it fast approaches the kerb. As he hits, the bike stands up and deposits him, feet first on the sidewalk. Not a sctrach. Only in Bali.

    The Bali tattoo? It's when the tourist gets off their bike and burns their inside leg on the hot pipe which leaves a huge blister and a nice scar... seen many.

    Oh the cops are funny. Sport when you live there. They block the roads off to get some 'smoke' money. ie youre not wearing a shirt, or dont have or licence, anything... then they proceed to they to try and reem every last rupih in your wallet, or US$ if youre unlucky. The best way was to have a nice crisp 50,000 Rp note in the licence, no questions asked. I ran many times and got away, sometimes. One time, real slow cruisng past the police block, dodging the officers until the indo girl on the back fell off, fark. The keys got ripped out and we got man-handled, she had no KTP (indo indentity card) and I was the dodgy, fluent Indonesian speaking 'bule', (whitey). They hauled us back to the cop shop in the back of an open pig-wagon as another cop drove my bike. We got there just to witness this 'D' beat up on this whore in the cells, imagine trying to concentrate with that going on. We got away with $20 US, I never paid up so quick.

    Watched a row of bikes on a ferry one day, all tied together, about 30 of them, all hit the deck in heavy seas, the place was a zoo.

    Saw a mad tourist (must have been good mushies) drive his rental off the end of the whalf in Jimbarin one day, straight into the piss. Wish I had the video camera for that one.
    I've got to stop, I have many more mad Indonesian bike adventures to tell but perhaps later.
    I'm sure there are some other interesting adventurous KBrs out there???
    A nice Pit

  2. #2
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    22nd July 2006 - 11:59
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    What a riot of a read, sounds like keystone cop shennanigans and comedy central all rolled into one! Glad to hear you lived through it all!
    "I like to ride anyplace, anywhere, any time, any way!"

  3. #3
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    1st January 2007 - 09:16
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    Went to Bali a few years ago...
    Stayed on Kuta beach...had one of those Suzuki 4WD things.. with no 4WD lever ,,and after driving it a few ks..got out and had a look ,,and there was no front diff in it.
    Anyway ,was in my hotel room one night,, and a friend rings me.
    Come and pick me up and we will go out for a feed.
    I had ,,,had a skinfull by this time....but me being me...iam going to drive.
    Well i got lost..really lost..it was dark ..and Kuta seems to have millions of people everwhere
    Spotted 3 cops ,standing in a hotel carpark....
    So i pull in and ask for directions back to Kuta.
    One of the cops oppens the drivers door..and i fell out.
    Crash on the ground....shit this is it..i thought.
    Anyway.one of the cops.walks out in the middle of the road..whistle in his mouth
    Stops all the traffic..and the other two dirrected me on my merry way.
    Fond memorries

  4. #4
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    30th July 2006 - 20:48
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    Classic

    Mate, you know exactly where I'm coming from. I've just cracked up big time reading this
    A nice Pit

  5. #5
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    1st January 2007 - 09:16
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    Great story salty...tell us a few more....
    Have done a lot of riding in Asia....
    can beleive all that u are saying is true.
    sometimes.just sit on the side of the road and piss ya self.
    4 people 6 chickens and mum and granny on a bike
    will put a few funny ones up too

  6. #6
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    1st December 2007 - 07:19
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    Ah, the memories.....:)

    iv'e just bought a BMW F650, after a 25 year gap, your post reminded me that is not as long as I think - that I rode all over Bali in 1998, so it hasn't really been that long, it just feels like it!

    Your post brought back a lot of memories - the crazy tooting over there - a cacophony of sound, but eventually you kinda 'get' that the toots actually mean something...passing left, right etc.

    I got cleaned out by the cops for, if I remember about $30 USD (yep, I was green!) because I had a Balinese person on the back!

    And all the people on 1 bike - amazing. Dad, 3 or 4 kids & mum balancing contentedly sideways right on the back breast feeding a baby...

    Ah the oil smoke from the trucks, my totally black face - except for the finger lines where I had wiped away the sweat & oil. The potholes! The smells....Expect the unexpected - that guy wandering across the road actually has a 12m really thin (can't see it till you are right on it) bamboo pole over his shoulder, and it is just at the right height to decapitate me!

    As a woman alone on a bike in both Denpasar and the wopwops, I had some amazing experiences with the locals - especially in the wopwops, they really seemed to respect it. I got to stay with families in the jungle, got to see some really sacred ceremonies.....

    Hoping to do Vietnam this year....after I get a handle on riding again, of course

  7. #7
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    wanderbird

    You're way more decsriptive in your writing, it brings back memories for me as well.
    Tha mad thing about is asia is the apparent complete lack of road rules, but through all the madness there is a system
    1/ the biggest vehicle on the road always have right of way

    2/turn first and then look- this one amazes me because it works. As everyone always only looks straight ahead there is not much need to indicate then look back before excuting a turn. Infact NEVER use your indicators as it just confuses everyone.

    3/ Try to stick to your side of the road, although if there is a gap, stack-ups are acceptable.

    4/ If you see a gap, make it yours!

    5/ never trust anyone to do what you think is most abvious.

    Actually reminds me of another time I was in heading back from Dongpu to the surf camp at lakeys. Because I was the only one mad enough to ride all the way from Bali, and hence the only guy not at the mercy of the mad bemo drivers I was nominated to ride the 40mins into town? for the beer run.

    All went off without a hitch, I got the beer, didnt get ripped of by the old chinese lady running the shop, managed a nice feed and even tracked down an ice cream. I headed back just after sunset, insects the size of small birds were the only problem as I peered out from behind my, at the time, ultra cool clear safety glasses into the black that was a dark Sumbanese night.

    15km from home I round this bend leading up to a small bridge.....and there is this old mongrel dog asleep on the road (the roads warm and everything sleeps on it during the night). I watch as it gets its bony arse off the tarmac and starts to move to the left.....the right.... I remember thinking, "wanna dance do you?" and before you know it booomph! I take the dog out, go down on the road, wince as I listen to the bottles smashing and the bike wringing its guts out in the middle of the road. For some reason I had decided to wear jeans, denim jacket and blundstone boots so i wasnt to bad. The right elbow worn down through the denim and long sleve shirt, pissing blood......not too bad....the dog had broken leg (its a full mogrel, no one owned it so I thought) and was yelping in the middle of the road and in my anger, the moment, I went up and put the scrawny thing out of its misery with my boot to the head. naughty but hey. About this time the dull flash of torch light intersected the accident scene as locals woke up to come and see what was going on. Soon I was surrounded by 10 Indo farmers all going off at me for killing their dog and demanding stupid amounts of Rupih. Luckily I speak really good indo and went on the defensive while tryng to lift the bike up while bending back the gear lever and bars saying who was going to pay for my bike! That didnt work and as I tryed to mount the bike I get a rap over the knuckles by the back of a 3 foot long machete. Ok, lets try again. Surveying the mangled crate full of broken Bintang bottles I noticed there was 3/24 still intact and quickly grabbed them out....suddenly the Indos all gazed at what i was holding and in unision all went ohhh arrhh, beer! Needless to say they got the beer, the dog got chucked into the ditch and the crazy tourist limped off into the darkness.

    The boys, although very dissapointed, cracked up when they saw my sorry arse back in the surf camp with no beer, mangled bike and in need of a stitch or 2.
    Funny but true.
    Needless to say I was back into Dongpu the next day, the boys needed beer.
    A nice Pit

  8. #8
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    1st January 2007 - 09:16
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    This isnt Bali.. it was in Thailand.
    A guy i know organised a bit of a ride in Eastern Thailand.
    Well all meet in the morning as we do.walk around checking out the bikes.and chatting
    BTW..i wasnt on this run....
    A Honda 750 turns up .with a couple of thai guys rididing it.
    this thing wasnt in the best of cond.2 pipes out of 4.and had no throttle..where the cable ended was attached a pair of vice grips. next to them was a pickup ,with about a dozen thais on it.
    so of they went...pickup in hot pursuit..the honda had no elect start .so they all pushed it..and away they went. bit of a yank on the vive grips.and it roared into life
    .after a few ks, they stopped. the pillion hops off..jumps on the pick up. the rider moves back,,, and a new rider hops on..this is how it went for the rest of the day.

    well i suppose its a bit of a way for a dozen guys to get a bit of a ride

    must of been funny to watch

  9. #9
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    Jeez you guys are cracking me up, just what I needed after a shitty day today. Keep them coming!
    "I came into this game for the action, the excitement... go anywhere, travel light,... get in, get out,... wherever there's trouble, a man alone... Now they got the whole country sectioned off; you can't make a move without a form."

    Paved roads are just another example of wasted tax payer dollars.

  10. #10
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    one night i had 3 girls with me.....so we are going out to diner
    ask one of the girls to ring a taxi..
    2 motorbikes turn up.hang on ...there are now 6 of us and 2 bikes
    never mind says one of the girls this is thailand.
    so of we go ..6 people and 2 bikes.......


    going down a side street it was black as the inside of a cow
    they had there lights on.. but had a bag in the front bassket
    didnt see them.next thing a bit of a crash. 2 of the girls fucked off.....
    never to been seen of again
    and another bike comes towards us.

  11. #11
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    30th July 2006 - 20:48
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    I have heaps more

    Another reason to love Bali
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    A nice Pit

  12. #12
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    lets hear them

  13. #13
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    Sumartra, Bus this time, more motorbikes to come

    In Sumartra heading to a place called Krui, another surf location in the middle of wop-wop.

    Winding through these impossibly narrow mountain roads in a fully laden bus driven by a 13 year old on betel-nut we hit a small snag. The rear end of the bus cracks and slumps onto the road.

    Arr huh.

    Talk about number 8 wire. Under direction of the driver we spend about an hour unloading the roof and inside of the bus, including 2 bikes and chicken coup full of, yes, more chickens, he asks all the big strapping surfer lads and a couple of Indos, to go down to the back of the bus and lift the subframe up.

    So he jumps up inside the bus and starts lashing the broken/cracked window pillars together with a poxy bit of rope he scrounged of an old woman who didnt want to give it up. Back of bus secured, all us tourists are going "No farkin way!!!" he orders a re-load and were off another 80kms to our destination.
    Only in Indo....
    A nice Pit

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by saltydog View Post
    Another reason to love Bali
    Hrm tempting but under the sheet is probably a penis.

  15. #15
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    lady boys

    Bencong pernounced ben-chong is the name for the Indonesioan lady-boy. There are a few. I was leaving the island of Flores on this mother passenger liner called the Killimutu and there was this bencong along side. We had just cast off, people hanging off everwhere and this bencong decides to do a show for the boat, prancing around in this floral dress? number like the poofter he was, singing... everyone ripped into him and he just kept strutting!
    legend.
    A nice Pit

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