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Thread: Photography - Track and race day hints and tips req.

  1. #1
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    Photography - Track and race day hints and tips req.

    I have just been and dumped a wad of cash on some pretty cool photographic gear and am keen to get snapping of our locals (and visitors!) at Track and Race Days at Manfeild..... (hows THAT for vicariousness)

    I know from various historical threads that there appears to be a fair few experienced and even professional photographers on this site and wondered if there were any local to Manfeild that might be prepared to trot infield with me and provide some hints and tips (and dummy it down for a beginner ) for getting some good shots.

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    Hints

    Here are a few: Good lighting (shadows etc) , framing (there is nothing worse than badly framed pics e.g. lots of sky and bugger all of the bike), shutter speed is probably going to be one of if not the most important issues when photographing. If you are not on the right shutter speed then you will just get crappy blurry pics!!

    I would recommend practice practice and more practice. Take a note pad and write down what shutter speed/ settings you are using for each pic (labourious I know) and then you can compare pics and see what is working best!

    happy snapping!!

    Quote Originally Posted by Her_B4 View Post
    I have just been and dumped a wad of cash on some pretty cool photographic gear and am keen to get snapping of our locals (and visitors!) at Track and Race Days at Manfeild..... (hows THAT for vicariousness)

    I know from various historical threads that there appears to be a fair few experienced and even professional photographers on this site and wondered if there were any local to Manfeild that might be prepared to provide some hints and tips (and dummy it down for a beginner ) for getting some good shots.
    We're just two lost souls swimming in a fish bowl, year after year,
    Running over the same old ground.
    What have you found? The same old fears.
    Wish you were here. QWQ

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    don't take photos on bikes going in a straight line unless they are wheeling or sliding down the track on their arses...bikes straight up and down are boring pic's...

    Learn your camera...and learn to judge the timing of your shots and get right in the middle of it all and close to the track

    the Pro's will surely be along shortly to give u some real advice...
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    Quote Originally Posted by Her_B4 View Post
    I have just been and dumped a wad of cash on some pretty cool photographic gear and am keen to get snapping of our locals (and visitors!) at Track and Race Days at Manfeild..... (hows THAT for vicariousness)

    I know from various historical threads that there appears to be a fair few experienced and even professional photographers on this site and wondered if there were any local to Manfeild that might be prepared to trot infield with me and provide some hints and tips (and dummy it down for a beginner ) for getting some good shots.
    Last time I took photos at Manfeild I used the preview screen on the camera and zoomed right in to get an idea what the picture quality was like, then adjusted settings till I was happy for that position on the track.

    It really is addictive and I almost considered not riding on the track last track day to take photos. Almost.

    What camera did you get?

    Quote Originally Posted by Bikern1mpho View Post
    I would recommend practice practice and more practice. Take a note pad and write down what shutter speed/ settings you are using for each pic (labourious I know) and then you can compare pics and see what is working best!
    You can see the settings when you load the pics on a PC, so no real need to write them down.

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    As Bikern1mpho pointed out shutter speed will probably be your best friend for getting your desired results. A fast shutter speed (say over 1/1000th of a second) will help freeze the action and avoid a blurry mess, but you can also get a great result by using a slower shutter spped (1/60th of a second) and panning as the bike goes past. Once you master the timing of this you can keep the bike sharp and have a nice blurry background which gives a good impression of speed.
    I do a lot of motorsport photography and use the panning technique a lot on tarmac events because there's no gravel getting thrown around, so often a car can look like it's not moving at all. I guess the good thing about bike pics is if they're nicely cranked over it makes the photo much more interesting than one of a car.

    Good luck with it all, call out if there's anymore tips you want

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bikern1mpho View Post
    Take a note pad and write down what shutter speed/ settings you are using for each pic (labourious I know) and then you can compare pics and see what is working best!
    no point to this, since all the file information you need is saved on the photo.

    follow the bike thru the corner before and after you've pressed the shutter, that way you should get more of the bike in focus and the background may have a nice blur to it, but the point is the bike will have more focus.

    For the beginning, I'd leave it in full auto mode (or sport if it has one. This will reset the focus and white balance continuously), snap away, see what works. When you've downloaded the photos, be critical about what you've got. Then the ones you like, look at the photo info, and find out the settings, find out why you like it, and do that again.

    yeah, a lot of it is 'practice', but think of it more as playing. That's why I do, and I think you get better shots if you're not concentrating too much, and you're just having fun playing.
    Go get a polarizer filter too

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bikern1mpho View Post
    ............

    I would recommend practice practice and more practice.
    Absolutely!! Like anything really, but a few pointers to get started is always good....

    Quote Originally Posted by cowpoos View Post
    don't take photos on bikes going in a straight line unless they are wheeling or sliding down the track on their arses...bikes straight up and down are boring pic's...
    Couldn't agree with you more - I have seen enough of those type of pic's, and no doubt I will add to number many many times over, but as time goes on and I learn more and more about what I am doing - I will (hopefully) eventually get it 'right' ....

    Quote Originally Posted by Kendog View Post
    Last time I took photos at Manfeild I used the preview screen on the camera and zoomed right in to get an idea what the picture quality was like, then adjusted settings till I was happy for that position on the track.

    It really is addictive and I almost considered not riding on the track last track day to take photos. Almost.

    What camera did you get?
    I laughed over your comment about almost considering not riding .... thats how you know you are on to something!!

    Well I would love to be riding, and this is my next best option (hence my comment about living vicariously)

    The camera is a Canon 40D with a couple of lenses etc thrown in for good measure...

    Quote Originally Posted by jumma View Post
    As Bikern1mpho pointed out shutter speed will probably be your best friend for getting your desired results. A fast shutter speed (say over 1/1000th of a second) will help freeze the action and avoid a blurry mess, but you can also get a great result by using a slower shutter spped (1/60th of a second) and panning as the bike goes past. Once you master the timing of this you can keep the bike sharp and have a nice blurry background which gives a good impression of speed.
    I do a lot of motorsport photography and use the panning technique a lot on tarmac events because there's no gravel getting thrown around, so often a car can look like it's not moving at all. I guess the good thing about bike pics is if they're nicely cranked over it makes the photo much more interesting than one of a car.

    Good luck with it all, call out if there's anymore tips you want
    OK, now at the moment I am just playing with it (the people going around the local roundabout think I am nuts!!) but the camera is so heavy with the telescopic lens on it that even though it is an IS lens, I have to use the monopod to keep it relatively still. I am having real difficulty panning.. is there a technique that I should be learning here?

    How close will I need to be to the track to get a good shot (say coming out of the hairpin or off the sweeper??)

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    Quote Originally Posted by bugjuice View Post
    no point to this, since all the file information you need is saved on the photo.

    follow the bike thru the corner before and after you've pressed the shutter, that way you should get more of the bike in focus and the background may have a nice blur to it, but the point is the bike will have more focus.

    For the beginning, I'd leave it in full auto mode (or sport if it has one. This will reset the focus and white balance continuously), snap away, see what works. When you've downloaded the photos, be critical about what you've got. Then the ones you like, look at the photo info, and find out the settings, find out why you like it, and do that again.

    yeah, a lot of it is 'practice', but think of it more as playing. That's why I do, and I think you get better shots if you're not concentrating too much, and you're just having fun playing.
    Go get a polarizer filter too
    As I mentioned in the previous thread, I am having difficulty handling the weight but realised after I wrote that, that the ungainly feeling is exacerbated by my inexperience, so will practice following (tracking) vehicles on the roundabout...

    Yes it has full auto function in sports mode (and a couple of filters although I haven't used those yet) and I have been playing between both settings and everythign taken so far with manual settings are crap but at least one of the auto ones is pretty ok. Certainly I can see the difference in the shots after only a couple of days....

    My puppy is sick and tired of having his photo taken and runs away now when he sees the camera come out.... (so I am utilising the experience and practicing following a moving target.....) ha ha ha

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    I take it you brought a digital camera, with at least a 2gig memory card, or even take a spare card, you will also need another battery, Just take heaps of photos, try different settings. don't be afraid to walk around look at things from different angles, watch were the pro's go most cases you can;t get to were they are, unless you have a pass, but you can usually get some good pics from as close as you can to were they are.
    Don't just do track action, take some in the pits, teams setting up, riders standing around bullshitting, fans walking around looking at the bikes.
    and no photo shoot is complete with out pics of Hot chicks.

    just have fun and take heaps of photo's.
    Why would you ride that long and that gnarly stuff if you don't have to, Its what we do, we love it.
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    Quote Originally Posted by oldguy View Post
    I take it you brought a digital camera, with at least a 2gig memory card, or even take a spare card, you will also need another battery, Just take heaps of photos, try different settings. don't be afraid to walk around look at things from different angles, watch were the pro's go most cases you can;t get to were they are, unless you have a pass, but you can usually get some good pics from as close as you can to were they are.
    Don't just do track action, take some in the pits, teams setting up, riders standing around bullshitting, fans walking around looking at the bikes.
    and no photo shoot is complete with out pics of Hot chicks.

    just have fun and take heaps of photo's.

    Yes, it is a Canon 40D - I bought two spare batteries a 4gig memory card and a 2 gig backup (just in case)......

    I will see if Flame and the other chicks will let me take some shots of them, in and or out of leathers but to be honest I was going to follow Lynda Blairs lead and keep an eye on all the hot men in leathers that may need a hand.... ooops I mean that might like their photo taken.....

    EDIT: Ohhh I could do a write up for the 'day' including photos!!! ha ha ha
    Last edited by Her_C4; 13th January 2008 at 11:47. Reason: added a bit

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    Quote Originally Posted by Her_B4 View Post
    Yes, it is a Canon 40D
    Nice,
    Why would you ride that long and that gnarly stuff if you don't have to, Its what we do, we love it.
    Nathan Woods R.I.P.

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    Nice camera.

    Re the panning, make sure you body position allows you to turn freely, feet apart for stability etc. Hold the camera with one hand (right) and the lense as far out as possible with the other, that should help balance the camera.
    I also find it helps not to have you face pressed right up against the camera.

    I haven't progressed to full manual shooting yet, but have done one track day using AV and TV settings with some pretty good results. Have a look here.
    These photos were taken from the infield using around 200mm zoom on the kit lense.

    It was getting home and looking at these on the PC that made me question riding vs taking pics on the open track days.

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    I use full manual for track photography as bike headlights can upset the auto settings. The camera also operates quicker when on manual.

    I will be happy to accompany you on the infield next time I'm at Manfeild.

    The 40D is a great camera and I look forward to seeing your work on the site.

    Another tip is only photograph good looking buggers like me.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kendog View Post
    Nice camera.

    Re the panning, make sure you body position allows you to turn freely, feet apart for stability etc. Hold the camera with one hand (right) and the lense as far out as possible with the other, that should help balance the camera.
    I also find it helps not to have you face pressed right up against the camera.

    I haven't progressed to full manual shooting yet, but have done one track day using AV and TV settings with some pretty good results. Have a look here.
    These photos were taken from the infield using around 200mm zoom on the kit lense.

    It was getting home and looking at these on the PC that made me question riding vs taking pics on the open track days.
    Heeey they are pretty damned good! How did you get that shot of flame from that angle? Pit wall?

    Quote Originally Posted by jimbo600 View Post
    I use full manual for track photography as bike headlights can upset the auto settings. The camera also operates quicker when on manual.

    I will be happy to accompany you on the infield next time I'm at Manfeild.

    The 40D is a great camera and I look forward to seeing your work on the site.

    Another tip is only photograph good looking buggers like me.
    Arrghhh I have been playing with the manual settings all day but to no avail yet. I probably need to learn a lot more about the camera before I will make any progress in that arena. There is heaps to learn and I am really enjoying it (the learning curve).... I have had plenty of moments already as I realise some basic things I am doing wrong...

    I would be most grateful indeed if you gave me some pointers Jimbo, and of course once I get something I can publish on site I will make sure the first one is of you....

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    Along with everything everyone else is saying pertaining to shutter speed, 'tracking' the bike and just practising, I have some stuff to add...

    Do as many different things as possible. Dirt riding piccies are great fun and the colours and details look really gorg!

    Get as close as you can on the inside of corners, people are generally more likely to loose it and go towards the outside of the track. Wear drab clothing and make yourself aware to the riders on the warmup lap or prior to the kickoff...go round the pits like somone else said. That way they'll know you're around and will not notice you when they are in the zone and inspecting track ahead. (know most people are used to seeing camera people and do zone out but less experienced riders could get put off) Just be very aware of not distracting them with movement while maintaining super sharp awareness yourself so you can bolt in the right direction if needed. SAFETY ALWAYS

    If you are using a huge lense you won't need to get as close but then you have to deal with the weight. You can get a pole for your lense that will still allow you to track objects in frame too.

    I peferred to get closer with a lighter lense - photo's just seemed more intimate and exciting a bit more organic and raw I guess (when I got them right that is!)

    At Manfield...take a go at standing on the concrete slab at SPLASH (the infield esses) and shoot the bikes looking down on them (while tracking)...there's an option to lock your focus at the point you want the shot to be taken then track and depress the shutter at the right time to capture it you'll fill the frame and get a great action shot.

    CROUCH and get low. You'll be amazed how much this can improve your track piccies. Just that subtle change of perspective can make things look really cool, also slightly tipping the body (skewing the frame) can make even amatuer riders like me look cool and then we will pay you for your print probably!

    FINALLY Enjoy! It is a great feeling and it's awesome when people want copies you win and they win

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