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Thread: Simple Stuff you can do yourself.

  1. #1
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    Simple Stuff you can do yourself.

    There's some things that get overlooked on most bikes that can make a huge difference to your riding pleasure, and generally stop things from rotting.

    Most of them involve grease, chain lube, and a 10mm sockets and ring spanners. Sometimes a screwdriver.

    1. Lubing hand control pivot bolts. Your brake and clutch levers probably get used more than any other moving part except your throttle. Lubing the pivot bolts mean you can be more delicate with your control inputs, through a greater range of motion. These parts often don't get lubed in the factory. Typically these bolts are a 10mm head, have a sleeve that passes through the lever and pivot and can't be overtightened because the sleeve is what the nut locks against. Be aware that your levers will fall out when you take this bolt out. That's normal. Clean it up because it will be full of crap and give the mating surfaces on the lever and the pivot that is still attached to the handle bar a good clean. Meths will do the trick. Liberally coat the pivot bolt sleeve and mating surfaces with grease and reassemble. Squeeze the levers a few times and wipe off the excess grease that oozes out. They'll feel really good to use now.

    2. Gear linkages. If you have rose joint type gear lever linkages, simply squirt some chain lube under the rubber covers. Try and direct the spray into the joint itself.

    3. Pillion footpegs. These often just sit there doing nothing, and sometimes won't move when you go to use them, even on comparatively new bikes. A lot of the ones I've seen lately have a spring and a ball bearing that locks into a detente on a plate when you fold them up. The ball bearing is pushed partly into the hole by the spring and the ball bearing and spring are generally not corrosion resistant. Again, this is an opportunity to lube the footpeg pivot bolt when you disassemble the footpeg but be careful to catch the wee ball bearing and spring when you slide the footpeg out of the mount. Clean the spring and ball bearing up with CRC or a graphite lube spray and put them carefully to one side. Clean up the mating faces, washers, and plates that make up the footpeg mount, but remember to take note of how it all goes back together and make sure you do one at a time so you can use the other footpeg as a guide for reassembly.

    4. Lube your control cables. Throttle, Choke, and Clutch. ANyone know how to do this? I have one of those cable lubing tools, that I bought in a fit of non-cable-lubing-guilt and would really appreciate it if someone could show me how to use the stupid thing. It's too small to be a useful paperweight.

    Always use what looks like too much grease. You can always wipe the excess off.

    I can't believe how much better the brakes and clutch feel on the Katana, what with Nudemetalz showing me how to bleed them (and doing most of the work - you should have seen the air in there!) and then me lubing all the lever pivots.
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  2. #2
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    Throttle mechanism is also a good one -- not just the cables. Makes a big difference to how much you will enjoy town work.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim2 View Post
    4. Lube your control cables. Throttle, Choke, and Clutch. ANyone know how to do this? I have one of those cable lubing tools, that I bought in a fit of non-cable-lubing-guilt and would really appreciate it if someone could show me how to use the stupid thing. It's too small to be a useful paperweight.
    I have tried these and come to the same conclusion.
    The mechanics I used to work with made a cardboard funnel over the cable and just squirted/poured the lube down that.
    Or otherwise one made out of putty or Playdoh works just as well.
    Only problem is you have to stand there holding it upright until all the lube has drained through.

    Great suggestions too Jim, far too often overlooked but make a huge difference to your riding experience.
    I've gotten a real buzz lately seeing Number One's reactions at the difference even little things like this make to her bike.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by xerxesdaphat View Post
    Throttle mechanism is also a good one -- not just the cables. Makes a big difference to how much you will enjoy town work.
    Ooo yes, good thought. The Katana has a really heavy throttle, but the cables are well lubed and in reasonable nick. I'll try that tonight.
    If a man is alone in the woods and there isn't a woke Hollywood around to call him racist, is he still white?



  5. #5
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    Jim I agree with you 100% in principle BUT Grease anywhere near brake or Hydaulic clutch components to me is a nono.
    I apreciate its only the outer rubber boot on the piston we are talking about but it is still reactive to oil based products ie grease.
    The product to use is rubberlube or O ring lubricant.You can get it from Brake companies or Paykel/blackwoods. its only about $10.00 a tube (looks like a toothpaste tube) and the last lot I bought was in 1990 summat so it lasts ages.
    To see a life newly created.To watch it grow and prosper. Isn't that the greatest gift a human being can be given?

  6. #6
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    If you get grease anywhere that then you're a bit ham fisted, but I appreciate where you are coming from. The Katana brake lever pivot is about 50mm from the piston and it has all been carefully wiped down and cleaned.

    I find that rubberlube turns into little black balls of goop and actively binds the brake lever rather than lubricating, within about two weeks or the first decent run in the rain.
    If a man is alone in the woods and there isn't a woke Hollywood around to call him racist, is he still white?



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    Quote Originally Posted by Sully60 View Post
    I have tried these and come to the same conclusion.
    The mechanics I used to work with made a cardboard funnel over the cable and just squirted/poured the lube down that.
    Or otherwise one made out of putty or Playdoh works just as well.
    Only problem is you have to stand there holding it upright until all the lube has drained through.

    Great suggestions too Jim, far too often overlooked but make a huge difference to your riding experience.
    I've gotten a real buzz lately seeing Number One's reactions at the difference even little things like this make to her bike.
    Condom, with a hole in the end . Rinse it out well first though. And y' can hang it on a convenient nail or hook while it drains

    Best not to use it for its original purpose afterward.
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  8. #8
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    If im planning a long(ish) or even day trip on the bike in the rain - I use a product called Gundry. Spray it on metal surfaces and it actually seeps into the pores of the steel repelling water for about 48 hours. About $20 a can but does the trick!

    I have a little bottle of "handy oil" from mitre 10, pretty light oil. Anything that moves or is metal gets a few drops on it once a week (regardless if the bike even gets used).

    Great write up Jim, very good tips there !
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sully60 View Post
    I've gotten a real buzz lately seeing Number One's reactions at the difference even little things like this make to her bike.
    WOW - what a difference a little bit of cleaning and lubing can do! Thanks handsome - you looking after me and my bike very well.

  10. #10
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    am printing this out ...... thanks, Jim2 - i'm the original 'klutz' when it comes to this sorta stuff
    ... ...

    Grass wedges its way between the closest blocks of marble and it brings them down. This power of feeble life which can creep in anywhere is greater than that of the mighty behind their cannons....... - Honore de Balzac

  11. #11
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    Bear in mind that Frosty raised a good point. I'm trying to think of the name of the O-Ring lube stuff I have on the shelf.
    If a man is alone in the woods and there isn't a woke Hollywood around to call him racist, is he still white?



  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim2 View Post
    Bear in mind that Frosty raised a good point. I'm trying to think of the name of the O-Ring lube stuff I have on the shelf.
    Yea dude -um you're right its opaque (sp) and in a whit tube
    Quite right rubberlube does break down fast--O ring lube doesnt.
    Rubberlube for brake piston reassebily--duuu
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  13. #13
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    Clutch Cable Lube

    Here you go Jim2:



    Also look in the youtube for his other links.

    Heads Up and Enjoy

  14. #14
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    Cheers Guy, best resource I've ever seen for this!
    If a man is alone in the woods and there isn't a woke Hollywood around to call him racist, is he still white?



  15. #15
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    um. . . ok.

    I have the older version (bought maybe 20 years ago) & it only has the 1 thumb screw. But kinda obvious thing the guy has missed is if you have the cable clamped in the right place & you do it up with pliers it mostly seals it. means it shoots the lube through better too.
    I cover it with a rag but not usually a problem.

    I used to use normal CRC but doesn't last long & then tried CRC cable lube. But this is a bit too sticky for small cables. My fav is Viscosomething-or-other made by Wynns & avail at M10 or where ever.

    Good thread though Jim. Many people seem to be afraid to do the simple stuff that makes the diff.

    Adjusting Hand & foot controls is the best. Except when Ghey (read Honda) bike manufacturers effectively lock them in place.
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