Need advice loosening a front sprocket nut - why you should keep the chain tensioned

[FROSTY:Me]

yea wot he said--give the thread a good soaking with CRC to help
Sorry Im tired -It wont bugger the rear sprocket but a pry bar jammed into the front sprockets gonna bugger it if it aint already

[Squiggles]

I have a 1/2" drive impact driver you could use, but knowing your success with tools i doubt its survival chances....

[motorbyclist]

yea wot he said--give the thread a good soaking with CRC to help

did that

I have a 1/2" drive impact driver you could use, but knowing your success with tools i doubt its survival chances....

well if i didn't insist on buying the cheap ones... and actually checked the bike toolkit before welding tools together... and who said i couldn't use my ratchet as a hammer when the real thing it out of my immediate reach?

[FROSTY:Me]

bring the farkin thing over here--Ill get the sprocket off for ya

[motorbyclist]

you're in massey? local enough to take you up on that if i can't manage

[Ixion]

Jam the front sprocket, it's buggered anyway. Power bar on the socket (helps to have another person to push the socket onto the nut with his foot), and a length of water pipe on the power bar. And stand on it. It'll move. They don't tighten in use, but the torque setting can be as high a s 100 ft lb. That's tight.

I have a 3/4 inch drive socket set for these jobs, but a good 1/2 inch will be fine.

I doubt that a normal impact driver will work, they are just too tight.

[Max Preload]

Wasteful bugger... there's plenty more life left in that sprocket.

[Animal]

Fuck me! That's the most shagged sprocket I've ever seen!

Good luck removing the bastard. If all else fails, find a bloody long piece of 50mm x 10mm flatbar, make a hole on it that the socket will fit through and weld it to the sprocket - which is fucked anyway. Park one of the wheels of you car on the end of the flatbar, and have another go with the socket and power bar.

[Squiggles]

Fuck me! That's the most shagged sprocket I've ever seen!

Good luck removing the bastard. If all else fails, find a bloody long piece of 50mm x 10mm flatbar, make a hole on it that the socket will fit through and weld it to the sprocket - which is fucked anyway. Park one of the wheels of you car on the end of the flatbar, and have another go with the socket and power bar.

He'll get carried away and weld it to his car too...

[Max Preload]

BTW it shouldn't be anywhere near that tight. There's a lock washer behind the nut that hasn't been used properly.

[Skunk]

Last resort: Cold chisel the nut with an off centre path; turning the nut anticlockwise (assuming right hand thread).
I don't think the lock washer has been used at all.

[homer]

Last resort: Cold chisel the nut with an off centre path; turning the nut anticlockwise (assuming right hand thread).
I don't think the lock washer has been used at all.

do you think it needed a lock washer

[Max Preload]

Last resort: Cold chisel the nut with an off centre path; turning the nut anticlockwise (assuming right hand thread).

Not a good idea to strike the nut with a hammer & cold chisel as there's a couple of bearings on the final drive shaft that are sensitive to that sort of thing.

[Max Preload]

do you think it needed a lock washer

Do you think if they'd used the lock-washer provided, they'd not have needed to crank 3 colours of shit out of the nut causing the current problem? (Although, admittedly, the sprocket should have been changed long ago when it actually still gripped the chain thus assisting the nut's removal...)

[Ixion]

It'll come off. Just sprag the sprocket, and put a long pipe on the power bar. I keep a six foot length of water pipe just for such nuts.

If it's really obdurate and you have access to a gas torch , heating the nut good and hot will break the loctite . But it's a fine line between getting the nut hot enough and cooking the seal behind the sprocket.