Best bike workshop in Auckland? Valve adjustments

**barty5** · 10th April 2008, 23:18

you should be checking valve at TDC every manual i have read has allway said TDC this way you are able to do both exhuast and inlet at the same time with out movinant thing less chance of mistakes not some thing you want to get wrong. Cars are done the same way (trust me long boring job on multi valve large engine vehicle diesel are even worse as they normally have to be hot becomes very messy)

**jimmy 2006** · 11th April 2008, 05:32

Originally Posted by camchain

I've just re-shimmed my valves and found it a very straight forward job. I was worried about getting the cams timed right, but this is easy to do. Happy to give you step by step on how I did it if you like (about 6 steps). I'm glad I did it myself, it's easier to do than it looks at first glance. Fear not your 4 stroke engine.

Was going to take it to a shop but mechanics from 2 local dealers (Mt Eden) were very unhelpful re ballpark figure on hours/cost to do it. I was slow and v careful 1st time. Next time I reckon inside an hour half easy. If you get the shop to do it can you post cost on here? Curious to know.

As far as cam position for checking clearances goes, as long as the lobes are well clear of the top of the buckets (part that cam lobe pushes directly onto), which you can see visually, and they will be off when at TDC compression stroke anyway, you'll get an accurate feeler reading. The valves stay closed a few degrees back or forward off TDC anyway. You only have to be aware if you have a valve lifting auto decompressor on an exhaust valve (If you have one, its the fancy little contraption on the end of your exhaust cam. If it's engaged you'll get a false and very large clearance on one of your exhaust valves. keep rotating engine to observe when it's not engaged. (Also, removing spark plug makes it easier to turn engine over easily and accurately)

BTW and FYI other 4 strokers: Just read some interesting info on modern valves. Standard OEM titanium valves are apparently not as reliable as stainless. The stems are welded to the heads and can fail at the weld (stainless are one piece). Also hardness layer is also very thin, hence need for lots of adjustments once through layer.

yea, it would be really handy to know how to do it, if you can be bothered i know i would like the info.,

cheers,

**Goonrider** · 11th April 2008, 10:41

Hey Jimmy So i didnt want to trade your RMZ youve had crap service and ive got a bad attitude. Sorry if i was trying to make money didnt know that was a crime when owning a bike shop. Thats right you should get top dollar for your trade and i should discount the new bike for you being a factory star rider.

If you read the post its about getting his valve clearances checked which i dont do our mechanic does that. I know if i have problems with suppliers or like wise i just dont use them again and i certainly dont bag them on a public forum. I know i cant keep everyone happy and i apologise for the crappy service but we do and other shops do try our best. Maybe you caught me on a bad hair day when my wife wouldnt let me go for a ride after work.

**jimmy 2006** · 11th April 2008, 13:17

Originally Posted by Goonrider

Hey Jimmy So i didnt want to trade your RMZ youve had crap service and ive got a bad attitude. Sorry if i was trying to make money didnt know that was a crime when owning a bike shop. Thats right you should get top dollar for your trade and i should discount the new bike for you being a factory star rider.

If you read the post its about getting his valve clearances checked which i dont do our mechanic does that. I know if i have problems with suppliers or like wise i just dont use them again and i certainly dont bag them on a public forum. I know i cant keep everyone happy and i apologise for the crappy service but we do and other shops do try our best. Maybe you caught me on a bad hair day when my wife wouldnt let me go for a ride after work.

thanks for that.....

my point was nothing to do with the RMZ, and actually you offered me a good price as a trade. you also offered me a good price on a new 250sx.
maybe i did just catch you on a bad day...... we all have bad days..... that unfortunately is the catch with public forums. it lets everyone have there opinions, and on the service front that was mine in this instance. I also know plenty of people that really like your shop, and had really good service.

it is probably a very busy time of year, but both times i talked to your mechanics they seemed like they actually did not want my business, not wanting me to bring my bike in because of not enough room, and then they thought it might be a 7-10day wait to get it back....... i only say this for feedback for you.

for some people shelling out there hard earned cash on a new bike $12000 bucks is a lot of money, and some of us don't take it that lightly. so when we come into the shop with the intention of walking out with a new bike, we are almost giddy with excitement, then we usually expect some sort of help, (service). i tried twice and left both times deflated and wanting to spend my money elsewhere. the second time was to buy a bike for my missus and upgrade my own. (looking to spend about $15000)

i speak very highly of some shops on here almost everypost. ie Mrmotorcycles

great service. AMPS in newmarket, awesome! recommend them to all.

rant over, sorry i was not intentionally bagging your shop, as it is a damn sight better then a lot i have been to. great range of bikes. and that blue FZ1 that you have there is an absolute steal at that price, and sounds unreal! the pipe looks much better as well.

if only the missus would let me, i would be coming in waving cash above my head, and racing out of the shop aboard that bike.

**tnarg** · 11th April 2008, 15:49

Heres a good vid to watch, its for a kx250f but I think the rmz is much the same.Hope it helps.

**B0000M** · 11th April 2008, 15:50

Originally Posted by Goonrider

Hey Jimmy So i didnt w........................:

sorry to jump in on the thread- at least you dont get the bagging mt eden m/cycles gets in almost every thread......

**jimmy 2006** · 11th April 2008, 17:30

Tnarg, your the bomb.

thanks so much, bling to you

**Goonrider** · 11th April 2008, 17:45

No worries Jimmy no hard feelings. Like i say sorry bout the service. Thanks for the feedback will pass it on to the workshop

**camchain** · 11th April 2008, 19:21

Video likes like would be best info Jimmy (my browser crashed part way through looking at it) but here's what I did anyway, trying not to be overly detailed as is my usual tendency:

1. Remove the two small covers on L/H engine case. top one shows tdc marks, bottom/middle of case cover allows socket access to turn over engine. Take spark plug out = easy and accurate postioning

2. WIth cam cover off, Take photo/make drawing of cam sprocket positions (They have timing marks on them) relative to engine head from side on view. I also marked postions with felt pen as well (even marked chain to sprocket, although chain may slip off bottom sprocket when cams out so may not line up on re-install, but mine did, = equals a touch more peace of mind).

3. Remove/undo cam tensioner/s (Mine has two of them)

4. Remove cam retainer (mine is one piece over both cams, yours might be different) my retainer had numbered tighten sequence cast into it. Note: Watch out for different length screws here! I backed off screws a little at a time to avoid warping retainer just in case.

5. Important: Wire/tie camchain to bike frame above head (to avoid dropping camchain into engine with cams out!)

6. Remove cams - gently/carefully. Dont ding plain bearing edges/surfaces. Your bike will likely have a decent ball bearing on each cam. Mine is plain journals all round. Important: Don't turn the engine over any more!

7. Remove buckets. My shims (they look like little hearing aid batteies) were stuck with oil stickyness to inside of buckets. Don't drop them into engine!

8. I cleaned all the oil off everything to take a good look at it all. Make sure bearing surfaces etc are spotlessly clean, small bit of grit can cause bearing pickup and damage. Note: White metal bearings are soft not hard! Oil up the new shims and place on top of valve stems. They sit in there neat and snug. Careful - Don't drop them into engine! Oil up the buckets all over and put them back in. Oil up cams/bearings. Note cams will have a thrust bearing section (to stop end float ie back and forth movement) and bearings to suit.

Torgue settings will be in your manual. Tighten each screw progressively and gently. With cams in and retainers back on, rotate engine gently to make double sure no valves hitting piston!

Coupla other things: Make sure bike is very clean re frame etc above open engine before removing cam cover. Easy to knock crud into engine. Something I've always done when working on a unfamiliar job is to put down newspaper and lay out all parts in correct sequence as they are removed (and even in right orientation relative to bike). You almost can't go wrong working your way back along your line of parts. Makes it nearly a no-brainer, and no mystery left-over washers/screws etc! If your feelers happen to be imperial, 0.005mm = 2 thou of an inch. Trivia point: The average human hair is 0.005 mm. thick so don't panic if valve clearances are not absolutely perfect and roughly speaking, a little loose is better than too tight. Start bike and enjoy the satisfaction factor - job done!

**Ktmboy** · 11th April 2008, 19:28

Originally Posted by Goonrider

No worries Jimmy no hard feelings. Like i say sorry bout the service. Thanks for the feedback will pass it on to the workshop

Ahhh, beautiful. Kisses all round,

I knew there was a reason for only staying at the "non gay"

off road section.
And I thought this was going to turn into a damn good bitch fight. Come on Jimmy give it back to the Goonrider!!!

**jimmy 2006** · 11th April 2008, 20:18

**camchain** · 16th April 2008, 20:20

FYI Update on valve adjustments.

Bike became hard to start again after 9 and 1/2 hrs riding. Checked and sure enough inlets had closed up again. Unable to get feeler into one of them. Both had tightened up by over 0.10mm

I get the feeling that once you have to start adjusting valves on KLX300s they are on an the way out rather quickly!

Does anyone know why inlet valves are generally the problem? Would have thought exhausts (with all the heat) would wear sooner.

**crazyxr250rider** · 17th April 2008, 17:28

Dirty Air Filter

**camchain** · 17th April 2008, 21:18

Good suggestion. Air filter super well cleaned every ride . Use no toil, rim well greased, but suspicious on how well No Toil works especially compared to ultra tacky and stringy Bel Ray! I leave a fair bit of oil in filter as once alcohol carrier has evaporated, filter can seem a bit on dry side.

Wiped rag over backfire screen and noticed some very fine dust is obviously getting through. Super dusty conditions this summer can't have helped, and skinny TwinAir filters nowhere near as thick as stock (power thief) air filter.

Thinking of running Bel Ray during next summer...

One thing though, would have thought exhaust valves still subject to whatever crap being sucked into combustion chamber - what comes in must come out after all? Thanks for yr input.

**Danger** · 18th April 2008, 06:42

Being old school can't say I've ever managed to work up the faith in No Toil all though others swear by it. But they are usually singing its praises due to the ease of cleaning the filters.
Motorex is an alternative to the super thick and tacky Belray. Motorex is easier to apply. I have some Silkolene in the workshop that I will be trying once my Motorex runs out. I use filter skins too. Although valve wear is not an issue for me.