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Thread: Help KX125 Clutch

  1. #31
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    9th January 2006 - 12:26
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    KX450 Motard/Flat Track KTM150SX H2R
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    after reading this thread i think it is more a actuation issue than a clutch plate issue, if they are all with in spec then they should come apart which seems to be the problem you are having

    jsut my thoughts,

  2. #32
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    27th April 2008 - 17:48
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    01 R6, 99 KX125
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    Thats what I'm thinking. Maybe I will try some different oil, but thought the Bel-Ray gear saver two-stroke transmission oil was really good.

    What sort of oil do you guys use??

  3. #33
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    18th November 2007 - 16:51
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    2008 HUSQVARNA TXC450
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    yeah i was thinking the same scott, the oil shouldnt bother it to start with, well to make it work any-way, i use motoul 5100, the pressure plate move's in and out when freely when the clutch is lever is depressed, also without the clutch cover on does the rest of the clutch cable and mechanisum move freely?
    HUSQVARNA TXC450
    SPECTRUM MC'S
    TAKAPUNA

    www.workshopmx.co.nz

  4. #34
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    9th January 2006 - 12:26
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    oil will not make a difference like this,
    sounds like the clutch is not unlocking, so it is not activating enough

  5. #35
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    15th February 2005 - 15:34
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    Katanasaurus Rex
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    Sorry if you've answered it already, but just double checking - do you have the washer in behind the clutch basket as well as the washer that goes between the clutch basket and clutch hub? In other words, the two needle roller bearings that the basket spins on should have a washer front and rear.

  6. #36
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    27th April 2008 - 17:48
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    01 R6, 99 KX125
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    All parts are here and were together as per the diagrams on the kawasaki website and my manual.

    I was just packing up for the night and put everything back together (negetive the clutch cover) as per. I didn't put any oil on any parts (apart from inside the sleeve and on the needle bearings) and after tigthening everything up I gave the back wheel a spin, put it in gear and it obviously stopped. I then pulled the clutch in and gave the wheel a spin, the clutch plates all came apart and the wheel spun freely, tried a few more times and same effect works perfectly.

    Therefore as it is working with the plates dry I'm thinking the oil is making the plates stick together.... Tomorrow I will try some Motul oil (what my mechanic uses and was going to until lovely salesamn talked me into the bel-ray) and see if it works. Have to take the missus out for dinner as it is her b'day but will try and do it all before I have to go. Will let you all know if it works.

  7. #37
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    9th January 2006 - 12:26
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    i ran belray gear saver oil in kx85s and 125;s for over 10 years,
    2 stroke gearbox oil is not particuly complex,
    beleive me, that is not the problem,
    couple of things to check,
    are the bearings that the clutch actuator arms run on, they are known to fail, this could be why it works when its on its side, the seal would have to replaced as well,

  8. #38
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    27th April 2008 - 17:48
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    Then still unsure. Have to get some more oil anyway as don't have enough to full transmission. Maybe something is a bit different since it's 5th clean and installation. Suppose will find out tomorrow when I get some oil and oil all the parts.

  9. #39
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    27th April 2008 - 17:48
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4stroke View Post
    yeah i was thinking the same scott, the oil shouldnt bother it to start with, well to make it work any-way, i use motoul 5100, the pressure plate move's in and out when freely when the clutch is lever is depressed, also without the clutch cover on does the rest of the clutch cable and mechanisum move freely?
    Clutch cable and mechanism works fine. The pressure plate moves out and leaves plenty of room for the plates to split. The plates themselve didn't even move when it was all oiled up, there was just a big gap between the ends of the plates and the pressure plate.

  10. #40
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    9th January 2006 - 12:26
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    are you doing this test while the engine is running? as the plates will not come apart until the rotaional force pushs them out

  11. #41
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    27th April 2008 - 17:48
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    Quote Originally Posted by scott411 View Post
    i ran belray gear saver oil in kx85s and 125;s for over 10 years,
    2 stroke gearbox oil is not particuly complex,
    beleive me, that is not the problem,
    couple of things to check,
    are the bearings that the clutch actuator arms run on, they are known to fail, this could be why it works when its on its side, the seal would have to replaced as well,

    Bike is standing up-right (not sure if that is what you meant) but the clutch release lever (think thats what you mean) seems to work fine. With no clutch in it rotates freely, and with clutch in the pushrod is working fine.

  12. #42
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    27th April 2008 - 17:48
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    Quote Originally Posted by scott411 View Post
    are you doing this test while the engine is running? as the plates will not come apart until the rotaional force pushs them out
    Originally was doing it with engine running, but tonight haven't done this. Shouldn't the clutch still work without engine running, i.e. if it is in gear and clutch is in I should be able to start the bike without it moving forward and should also be able to walk the bike forward???

  13. #43
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    9th January 2006 - 12:26
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    normlly on older dirtbikes the clutch will stick the first time you put it into gear, meaning it will stall or lurch forward, the degroving of the cltuch basket should have fixed this tho,
    when you kick it over it is harder to start the bike in gear as there is still some drag on the clutch untill the bike is kicked over the the plates forced out buy the spinning basket,
    the only think i can think of is the basket is not right not allowing the paltes to slide freely away form each other, but you have checked this i am unsure what it could be,

  14. #44
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    27th April 2008 - 17:48
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    Quote Originally Posted by scott411 View Post
    normlly on older dirtbikes the clutch will stick the first time you put it into gear, meaning it will stall or lurch forward, the degroving of the cltuch basket should have fixed this tho,
    when you kick it over it is harder to start the bike in gear as there is still some drag on the clutch untill the bike is kicked over the the plates forced out buy the spinning basket,
    the only think i can think of is the basket is not right not allowing the paltes to slide freely away form each other, but you have checked this i am unsure what it could be,
    You cannot kickstart it with it in gear at all. If I start the bike up, leave it to run for a couple of minutes, then put it in gear it goes in like there is no clutch (this is while bike is on stand with back wheel of the ground). Can go through the gears (still no clutch) and then if I pull clutch in and put the back brake on the bike will just stall )or work the engine if brake not fully on)

    The plates can slide freely in the basket and have some room between the plate tangs and the housing fingers.

  15. #45
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    17th April 2007 - 11:05
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    CRF250R
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    I know on the kwakas the "cam" part the one that turns and pushes the rod that runs tthrough the cases not sure on the technical term,but anyways they can cause probs as they wear out like having a "on/of" clutch effect maybe yours has worn enough to not get enough purchase on the rod and drive it forward to release the plates with the centrifugal forces opposing it when the engines running

    Oh if the bearings around this part have gone it will cause this too and they are a real pain to remove trust me i know lol
    Even on the old ones if you dont race serious and you wanna just go do the odd club day and smoke everyone on a big old 5hundy it great and if you get beaten you have a handful of excuses

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