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Thread: New footpegs for KLR?

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Padmei View Post
    Now how about fucking off & riding them somewhere instead of mumbling into the computor the shortcomings of the KLR.

    Woah, dude, take a chill-pill man ! This place( in fact all of 'biken) is based on taken the piss!

    The 'great' DR has some oarfull shortcummins( some are even shortgoins) and most of the owners are aware, some even admit them.

    But the KLR is rightfully at the bottom of the pile :-) .....get over it!!!!( and just get out there and use it) !!!
    ps....i mean really...RUBBER pegs on a man size Adv'er? Sheesh.
    Last edited by Virago; 8th August 2008 at 18:31. Reason: HTML

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Padmei View Post
    Soundbeltfarm - what is this ballards catalogue of which you speak?

    I think I might have a go at belting a bit of steel around the existing peg & welding it on. Anyone done this with success? What size steel do you think would be best?
    Ballards OffRoad in Oz http://www.ballards.cc/ but they don't do on-line ordering.

    Same thickness steel as the existing pegs should be fine - 3mm or so?

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Padmei View Post
    Just to clarify - I am a KLR owner and bow down before the mighty DR riders. You great men & women are the salt of the earth -well endowed handsome most fantastic riders there have been ever!! The DR650 is the greatest bike ever invented - ever! Everything about them is as close to perfect as fuck is to swearing. They are so great they don't actually touch the ground they levitate!!!

    Now how about fucking off & riding them somewhere instead of mumbling into the computor the shortcomings of the KLR.

    Ahhh dry humor, I like it Delivered with the subtlety of a sledge hammer

  4. #19
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    3rd February 2004 - 08:11
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    I made some serrated pegs for my F9 kawi by getting a strip of 2" x 1/8" (this was in '72 so imperial measurements, ok?) drilling a row of 3/8" holes down the centre, then sawing down the centre. Bent around a 3/4" socket and welded to pieces of 1/2" square thick wall tube. Drilled for the pivot pin and the resultant "possum traps" were good to go. Tended to chew up the bottom of gumboots a bit, though.

    Padmei, don't the the DRibblers get to you, they're just jealous that they have to put a whole load of expensive accessories on their cheap bikes to get it up to the standard of a standard KLR, which tends to raise the price of the cheap DR to someway north of the $9890 odd that the KLR costs off the showroom floor
    it's not a bad thing till you throw a KLR into the mix.
    those cheap ass bitches can do anything with ductape.
    (PostalDave on ADVrider)

  5. #20
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    You may have already tried this, but how about wandering to your nearest bike wreckers and sorting thru the pile of junk for a pair of pegs?

    If your a bit stuck for wreckers, wherever you are, I can always sort something out from the piles of crap littering the bike shops around here. I'm assuming if it will fit the DR (am I allowed to use that word?) it will suit the KLR...

    Let me if I can help.


    Iain.

  6. #21
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    Thanks guys I think I will have a go at being an euginnerr - I can't do too much damage with a welder & grinder can I?

    Guys I don't have a prob with DR bikes or riders - only ones that deliberately spout shit in what started out as a KLR question thread - they are most welcome to argue in the KLR vs DR thread. I don't think I've seen a bad bike since I've been looking at adv bikes.

  7. #22
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    Just remember to disconnect the battery cables to protect the Electronics before you weld anything (arc or mig). You don't want to have a nice big green bike that only goes by flinstone power do you?

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kaituna View Post
    Just remember to disconnect the battery cables to protect the Electronics before you weld anything (arc or mig). You don't want to have a nice big green bike that only goes by flinstone power do you?


    While I'm going down my wish list Bark busters or Acerbis Rallypros? I have read warewolfs post regarding breaking levers with them on. Anyone else got any info preference? At the moment my right hand is naked

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Padmei View Post
    Just to clarify - I am a KLR owner and bow down before the mighty DR riders. You great men & women are the salt of the earth -well endowed handsome most fantastic riders there have been ever!! The DR650 is the greatest bike ever invented - ever! Everything about them is as close to perfect as fuck is to swearing. They are so great they don't actually touch the ground they levitate!!!

    Now how about fucking off & riding them somewhere instead of mumbling into the computor the shortcomings of the KLR.
    Some of those DR650 riders should ride a KTM to see what real performance is about before they slate other 650's too much. With you in spirit brother, I haven't seen anyone else thrash their KLR like you did the other day....and on roadie rubber! Thumbs up!
    That should ignite the fires, lookout.....

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kaituna View Post
    Just remember to disconnect the battery cables to protect the Electronics before you weld anything (arc or mig). You don't want to have a nice big green bike that only goes by flinstone power do you?
    Remove the footpegs from the bike before welding ???? Just and idea

    Quote Originally Posted by Padmei View Post


    While I'm going down my wish list Bark busters or Acerbis Rallypros? I have read warewolfs post regarding breaking levers with them on. Anyone else got any info preference? At the moment my right hand is naked
    Moose racing does hand guards over alloy bars. They work for me. The hand guards are a soft rubbery plastic rather than the more rigid hard plastic of other brands. They tend to bend and flex back rather than creasing when you have a moment.

    Cheers R
    "The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools." - Herbert Spencer, English Philosopher (1820-1903)

  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by cooneyr View Post
    They tend to bend and flex back rather than creasing when you have a moment.
    They have been known to crease brakelines however...

  12. #27
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    More than happy to pop into our local wreckers for you if your welding/grinding doesn't work out

  13. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
    They have been known to crease brakelines however...
    The lack of brain cells that control the large leg that collected the steel bars which said moose hand guards are attached too are the problem. So the crease was steel bars fault

    Cheers R
    "The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools." - Herbert Spencer, English Philosopher (1820-1903)

  14. #29
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    handguards

    N-Zeta are what I have fitted, a bit cheaper than the Bark busters and while not as aesthetically pleasing are well crash proof (believe me, I've tested them).

  15. #30
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    N-Zeta are a real product or ...??
    (For those too young to know better N-Zeta was a NZ assembled C-Z scooter back in the '60's. C-Z was a Czechoslovakian manufacturer AKA Jawa CZ)
    it's not a bad thing till you throw a KLR into the mix.
    those cheap ass bitches can do anything with ductape.
    (PostalDave on ADVrider)

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