Didn't think the E-09 needs a more reinforced bead and carcass/sidewall.
They must really work them hard in Europe.
Compared my 7000km old one with the the Deano's yesterday, about 2/3rd worn. Really like them.
His Excellency
Didn't think the E-09 needs a more reinforced bead and carcass/sidewall.
They must really work them hard in Europe.
Compared my 7000km old one with the the Deano's yesterday, about 2/3rd worn. Really like them.
Where's the ride?
That one's been a-round (sicOriginally Posted by NordieBoy
) ever since E-09s were first mooted on here.
I've said before that the E-09 closely resembles the Michelin T-63. There is also a tougher version of the T-63, called the Desert: stronger carcass and harder tread compound.
They are considered 'the schizz' by some in Aussie. Good for long distance high-load high-heat conditions - race or tour.
Cheers,
Colin
His Excellency
A great tyre it is.
They feel a bit more ponderous on initial turn in, but it is very good value (at the moment) compared with TKC's. (probably my favourite hoop, fr n rear on fatty).
Eitherway, I wont fault either, as my riding nerve gives up earlier than the tyre ability in both cases. (wet roads are still an issue though), maybe they could develop a heavy tread pattern , with dispersion grooves. Just a thought.
terra firma rider
Hmmm. This one has me interested since the 17inch deserts seem to be getting hard to find. Comes in a 140 as well. Probably wont come into NZ though - be bugger all demand for them here I'm guessing. Going for an E09 rear next.
Cheers R
"The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools." - Herbert Spencer, English Philosopher (1820-1903)
Highway Biker
I've just put a new set of T-63's on the DR -15% off RRP on Michelins for November at "that" tyre shop, so got the set for a shade over 200 bucks ...
Will report back from time to time how they fare - riding at the moment is prolly about 70% tarseal & 30% metal/gravel, so let's see what the mileage & wear rates look like
Riding Qwerty
Just got some Michelin AC10s for the XR6. They look nice and aggressive and from overseas reports I've read they sound good. Can't find any references on here - anybody used them?
The IRC Trail Winner GP110R's on it at the moment are great on the road/gravel but hopeless in grass. Rode to Auckland on Monday through the Kaukapakapa Rd (lots of twisty seal) and it was huge fun. I assume the AC10's will be fairly poor for that sort of thing, so still looking for a spare set of wheels so i can do a quick change - anybody got some XR600 or XR400 wheels they want to sell?
Thanks
Garmin Geek
Just put a pair of these on the KTM, rode home and it sounded like a four wheel drive I used to have...lol
Good tyres though and it has sure added a few inches to the height of the bike and looks mean as hell and ready for anything!
At the price they were, I guess I can afford to wear them out on the road and have a bit of fun at the same time.
terra firma rider
Did 660kms yesterday. The desert handled the dist pretty well though I did managed to knock a couple of mm of tread of it. I have some serious issues with bike set up at the moment in that I was locking the rear wheel all the time due no feel I suspect I have old school sintered pads and I couldn't drive out of the corners, was spinning, which I suspect is due to too much shock preload. Hopefully both of these issues are easily fixed but the Desert got a pretty hard time yesterday.
The front MX486 is pretty much toast after 2000kms. All of the blocks on the second row from the centre (transversely) are badly worn and of these blocks every third one (circumferentially) is split in half. The third row out is also showing signs (cracking) of significant stress. I highly suspect this is cause they were never designed for a 220km tractor running at close to 100kph for hours on end. Anyway D606 front going on very shortly.
Cheers R
"The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools." - Herbert Spencer, English Philosopher (1820-1903)
Where's the ride?
Does this help?
www.teknikracing.com
Symptoms of too much low speed rebound damping:
Rear end tends to wash out or slide-out on hard packed sweeper turns with small bumps especially off chamber “Washboard” sections does not develop good braking power. Poor rear wheel hook up when accelerating over series of small bumps or ”washboard” sections. In general, rear end seems to be well controlled in the situations it is not oscillating up and down too much but it just doesn’t seem to develop good traction.
Note: All these problems arise because the excess damping keeps the rear wheel from extending fast enough to follow the low spots between the small bumps the result is poor traction.
Symptoms of too little low speed rebound damping:
The symptoms here are similar to the above tendency to slide out on “washboard” turns and poor braking over washboard sections .e.g. the critical difference in this case is that the back of the bike is bouncing up and down too much. Where as with to much kicking up especially noticeable when braking on downhill sections with small bumps or washboard surface.
Rear end does not hook up:
1. Re-check the rear suspension sag. Not enough preload can cause this.
2. Reduce the rear’s rebound dampening, this allows the rear wheel to get back on the ground faster and increase traction.Sounds like similiar damage to the Metzeler MCE 6-Days I'm running; lots of broken side knobs. Definitely not designed for big bikes, shame really. The ED-661 hasn't suffered like this.
Cheers,
Colin
terra firma rider
Hmm not sure. The bike is the best I've had for driving over washboard. It gets good traction and will accelerate really well unless they are very large (couple of very nasty sections on Jacks pass at the moment). My first lock up and off on Sat was coming from gravel to seal. I locked up on the smooth and loose gravel and it remained locked up on the seal. Second serious lock up and crash was on wet wooden bridge. All other lockups were on gravel but I managed to control those ones with only a littlebefore cornering.
The other thing about Tenzing is that the brake pedal is closer to the peg than normal and higher than the peg when adjusted down as far as possible. With stiff boots this makes it hard to feel what is going on. Rear pads aren't far of replacing so going for some organics and I'll cut and well the pedal around bit in the hope of getting a bit more progressive braking.
The preload comment is because there is almost no static sag. I've left it alone so far just to give the shock a chance to settle but it is time to do something now.
Cheers R
"The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools." - Herbert Spencer, English Philosopher (1820-1903)
L-Plate Rider
has anyone used the Mitas EO-8 ?
I'm thinking of using on 650 Vstrom - mainly road in place of (unavailable) Anakee.
Thoughts please.
Forum whore
Yup.
Seems o.k. to me.done just over 2000k and it's hardly worn
I aint bovvered
I think I'll get one after the MT21 wears out (in about a week) Find it ok on gravel & maunga type rocks Jatz?
Forum whore
What size is your rear (tyre), the E-08's sitting in the shed at the moment.I think I'll get one after the MT21 wears out (in about a week
Yer mor 'n welcome to take it for a burn and see what you think.
It's o.k. on gravel and I did the Maunga twice with it with no problems, course it might've been different in the wet
Hardcore Biker
Anyone had any experience with mounting front EO7's "backwards"? I've just fitted a new front with the chevron pattern facing forward (sidewall says it should face to the rear), anyone else mounted them this way?
KiwiSafariTeam
GO BRO GO
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