Removing cylinder/damaged engine bolt?

[The Pastor]

I wanted to use this, simple solution. Then I read the fine print, doh.

thats there to provide a saftey cover for them if somone uses it on a brake bolt and then the brake fails etc.

if the thread fails, what damage would it do?

[Magua]

Damage to the head from uneven torque?

[Max Preload]

Damage to the head from uneven torque?

At the very least a leaking head gasket.

[Magua]

Nothing I have tried has worked, it's like they used cement cement instead of gasket cement. Soooo, I'd like to keep it on.

I went and bought a new engine bolt today, it screws into the hole that the munted thread bolt came from with ease. I'm that thinking that maybe I will just add some of the thread repairing goop and leave it at that.

[xwhatsit]

How are you going to get the camchain tensioner out?

[mikeey01]

Nothing I have tried has worked, it's like they used cement cement instead of gasket cement. Soooo, I'd like to keep it on.

I went and bought a new engine bolt today, it screws into the hole that the munted thread bolt came from with ease. I'm that thinking that maybe I will just add some of the thread repairing goop and leave it at that.

So barrel still stuck on crank case?

[gatch]

I'm that thinking that maybe I will just add some of the thread repairing goop and leave it at that.

Id run a tap down it first to see if any of whatever is on the bolt, will easily be removed, ie could be more broken threads in there.. If your tap comes back coated in shit, then Id give it the helicoil, definitely, for the sake of a $20 repair kit and 20min of your time, you can save yourself the repair bill from when your head gasket leaks..

my 2c..

[Magua]

How are you going to get the camchain tensioner out?

We've already taken the tensioner out.

So barrel still stuck on crank case?

Yep, bugger wont move an inch.

[mikeey01]

Yep, bugger wont move an inch.

Can you take a pic of the bottom of the barrel / crank case and post up?

Here's something to try....

You'll need some heat, a good heat source!
Get a gas torch (local mitre 10 little blue gas bottle with nozzle tap etc) or at least a hot air gun (ages for the hot air gun) heat evenly around the bottom, once it's all hot enough (you'll know when) place a slight bit on tension under the barrel, it's acting like a lever, not a wedge! Why I say lever is you've got some tension on, a wedge won't budge and you'll break fins
Now with a rubber / nylon mallet whack the barrel all over, (whilst tension is held between the cc & Barrel) on the side etc. The intention here is to shock / crack the seal / bond.
Yes you'll need some force.

There are other ways, such as using steel bars front and rear and passing them through / around the barrel between the lower fins, using the bikes own weight to lift etc or the studs and some steel as a puller, but by the sounds of it your not tooled up enough.

The easy way out for you just might be to take it to your local garage, any good mechanic will be able to get it off! Well rehearsed at this sort of stuff they are

Looking at the stud that came out and the ali left on it, the thread is buggered and I'd be surprised if you'll now be able to get the required torque down on the head. Heli coils are not so hard, if your concerned about doing it then get the local garage mechanic to do this as well, they do em all the time!

If ya lived locally I'd get the barstard off for ya!

[crazyxr250rider]

Somthin' tells me your being a nana with your hammering,remember the bigger the doubt the bigger the clout....Serious.

[xwhatsit]

We've already taken the tensioner out.

No, we took the camchain tensioner tensioner out (the little spring and associated paraphernalia), but we didn't take the tensioner blade out. The tensioner blade is the bit that wears from the chain rubbing against it and that's the bit that will potentially need replacing.

Somthin' tells me your being a nana with your hammering,remember the bigger the doubt the bigger the clout....Serious.

Somewhat concerned about breaking fins off. It's an aluminium barrel with spindly little fins.

[Ixion]

With enormous hesitation and trepidation I second the suggestion that you are maybe being a bit too gentle.

I have known watercooled barrels to corrode n place (GT750 Suzukis sometimeshave to have the barrels smashed off ) but this is a simple air cooled twin. The barrel can't be locked in place (assuming, again, that there is no hidden screw or such (down inside the chain tunnel? - UPWARDS from underneath ? )

The fiche shows several dowels on the barrel joint. My guess is that the barrel has been replaced using a hard setting gasket cement and this has set around the dowels .

What is needed is leverage, not hammering, to break the joint free.

Jap bikes often have a 'ledge' or similar where a lever can be used to prise the joint apart. I'm not talking here about sticking things in between the mating surfaces , but of using a lever between a 'sticky out bit' of the barrel and the crankcase.

Quite moderate leverage will break free a glued joint when even vicious hammering will fail.

[Magua]

Done. Renegade Master came over, we jacked the bike up and tied the barrels to the roof, lowered the jack to increase the tension and gave it a few good whacks.

The barrels look to be in good condition, no scaring, same goes for the mating surfaces. The piston rings look fine to my untrained eye, no breakages. They can be pushed around the piston with ease, I understand this is normal?
Edit: the tensioner looks good too, doesn't look worn.

[hayd3n]

looks like its been a s/s bolt in a alumunum head not a good mixture

[Max Preload]

The piston rings look fine to my untrained eye, no breakages. They can be pushed around the piston with ease, I understand this is normal?

Correct. Measure the end gap when installed in the bore and the clearance on the piston grooves.