I think you may need to go back to 12v coil and battery
as it ran ok till it meltid the battery didn't it
make sure you come along on sunday someone may be able to give you some more advice on how to get it going right
I think you may need to go back to 12v coil and battery
as it ran ok till it meltid the battery didn't it
make sure you come along on sunday someone may be able to give you some more advice on how to get it going right
"Instructions are just the manufacturers opinion on how to install it" Tim Taylor of "Tool Time"
“Saying what we think gives us a wider conversational range than saying what we know.” - Cullen Hightower
Nah it ran fine when I put a 6v coil in it with the battery which is why I'm amazed it won't go. If I can find a 12 coil soon I might try it. Can you screw the condenser by putting a 12v in it or are all condensers universal? That might be it. I'm selling my road bike now though so I might just buy this other bucket I've got my eye on untill I fix this one and then sell one of the two. Like I said come this tuesday I won't have a lot of time or money so I just want something that will go as soon as I get it. Might sell the one I'm looking at buying when I get the cb going though. I'm probably going to have to find someone with the know how to try fix it. Can't really see what anyone else is going to say though, same as everyone here and everyone that's had a look at it at my place: Getting gas?-yes-Getting spark?-weak, coils fine, making a circuit, battery's fine, wired up fine, points fine-*generally say learn how it works or poke stick because its a 2 valve single cylinder four stroke*
talking to a mechanic I know who built his own bike so knows quite a bit if running a total loss ignition a 6v coil on 12v circuit is fine becuase at start you will have a mega spark but as you ride you aredraining battery power and you will still have a good spark right down till the battery has 6v's left in it.
Could be an idea if you decide to go total loss
Blindspott are back as Blacklist check them out
www.blacklistmusicnz.co.nz
It's already on total loss and last time I ran a 12v battery on a 6v coil it started spewing coil coolant all over my engine and stopped working all in the course of 10 mins... I think he may have misunderstood your question or something...
If it's firing when you push it, but won't pick up, that would indicate to me carb, not spark.
I know you haven't altered the carb, but you did mention that even before it did not burst into life immediately. So maybe the exra time has caused more gunge or whatever in the carb.
Unually, with spark , once it fires it will keep firing. Maybe missing a bit , but it's unusual for ignitin to fire then die immediately. Afterall, if the spark is enough to fire it at pushing speeds, why won't it be enough to fire it at running speeds.
You also mention that full throttle helps - that's not right, needing full throttle . To me that says over rich. I'd chekc the carb. And spor tit a new sparkplug.
Originally Posted by skidmark
Originally Posted by Phil Vincent
Like I said it's got a new plug in it. When you say clean carb, do you mean clean the float bowl and what? Untill I messed with the idle screw it was fine but I can't tell the right setting unless it's going. Could that be it? I'll clean the carb but do you think the idle screw could have caused it? It's kind of hard to check if it works every 1/4 turn when I have to push it about 3 times just to make sure it's not the way I'm pushing it that's making the difference. I've tryed very roughly turning the screw a couple turns a time and no difference?
Unscrew all the jets and make sure they are have nice clean holes.
Pilot jets are usually the ones that block and blocked pilot jets cause poor running and very hard starting...
Heinz Varieties
Is it possible to mess anything up when taking it apart and putting it back together? Settings? 'Cause I don't want to mess it up even more haha. Never had a carb apart.
Idle screw, wind it full in then two and a quarter turns back, won't be far wrong.
Check the needle is securley clipped in place (and that it HAS a needle)
EDIT: Idle screw, do you mean the little wee screw you need a fine screwdriver to adjust , or the big screw you can turn with your fingers? The latter, won't have any effect, just the bike will idle too fast, or you'll have to keep blipping the throttle. Other one, can make starting hard .
Originally Posted by skidmark
Originally Posted by Phil Vincent
Last edited by wbks; 1st February 2009 at 21:14. Reason: pic au
Don't have an ignition and key for a cb125 you are willing to part with by chance?
That's the throttle stop. Just controls what speed the engine idles at.
I think the pilot bleed screw is the recessed one at far left (the pic's not very good). That's an important one. If you have no idea of setting, try winding it right in, and two turns back. That would be close enough to run.
Originally Posted by skidmark
Originally Posted by Phil Vincent
Sorry, it didn't have any ignition on it when I got it. Ask Buckets4me - If you're lucky he might still have the original off the bike.
lol Hauraki Plains
I'll count how many screws to the stop it takes from the current position to be sure.
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