Look what the courier delivered today

**Bonez** · 8th April 2009, 19:03

Originally Posted by renegade master

ok cool, i was going to buy new ones, but sod that! I'll buy 2nd hand ones! I need a specal holder tool and socket thing to undo my clutch tho, damn its tricky.

I'll aslo give george a call and see what he says, he might actually know what hes talking about.

Screwdriver between the clutch drive cog and gear it's driven with, in gear and broom stick through the rear wheel spoke locks it. You can undo the center nut with a brass punch(or if you are gash a screw driver-last resort really) and hammer.

Friction plates can get glaised and just need a bit of a scuff up. Tis worth replacing the springs(length should at least be checked to see if they're within tolerances) or if you're cheap use some washers to give extra tension.

**The Pastor** · 8th April 2009, 19:28

yeah i tired all that, but it wouldnt hold it with the stick through the wheel ... not sure what you mean about the drive cog and gear its driven with...

also tried to drift out the nut - but it was just denting or cutting into the nut rather than turning it.

**Bonez** · 8th April 2009, 19:35

Originally Posted by renegade master

yeah i tired all that, but it wouldnt hold it with the stick through the wheel ... not sure what you mean about the drive cog and gear its driven with...

also tried to drift out the nut - but it was just denting or cutting into the nut rather than turning it.

There's a gear on the back of the clutch right? This engages in another gear in the housing. You should be able to make a tool to remove the centre nut out of a large socket or thick wall steel tube.

**The Pastor** · 8th April 2009, 19:37

I guess so.... I think access to it might be very limited tho the clutch housing bit is very big (where you have to hold it and undo the nut)

**Mom** · 8th April 2009, 19:41

Originally Posted by danchop

man i wouldnt mess with measuring plates the tolerance is too minor,and what a bloody job just to check your plates,if your clutch is slipping or playing up just replace the bloody things and with new ones

yah, I agree, but you know I have to protect my Scottish heritage somehow...LOL. True though, plates are not as expensive as I was expecting. My clutch has no adjustment left, I am lucky to remain stationery with it fully engaged (well the lever pulled hard against the bars, fully adjusted anyway), I need to do some work on it...Yes:

**Bonez** · 8th April 2009, 19:49

Originally Posted by renegade master

I guess so.... I think access to it might be very limited tho the clutch housing bit is very big (where you have to hold it and undo the nut)

If you put something between these two gears to stop them turning (the method I described above including broom stick) you shouldn't need to hold the housing at all.

**Mom** · 8th April 2009, 19:49

Originally Posted by Bonez

Friction plates can get glaised and just need a bit of a scuff up. Tis worth replacing the springs(length should at least be checked to see if they're within tolerances) or if you're cheap use some washers to give extra tension.

See now this is where a girl like me gets confused. I agree with you ,hence my wanting to know the minimum thickness spec for the plates, but I have been told not to worry about the springs. Hmmmmm. Preloading with washers seems a bit ummmmm sneaky. Ever had them fail?

I like your outlook too, my blue lovely is an older kinda of gal, and needs special treatment. She is not the high performance, race tech beast, that some have.

**Bonez** · 8th April 2009, 19:50

Originally Posted by Mom

yah, I agree, but you know I have to protect my Scottish heritage somehow...LOL. True though, plates are not as expensive as I was expecting. My clutch has no adjustment left,

Is that at both ends of the cable Mom?

**Bonez** · 8th April 2009, 19:54

Originally Posted by Mom

See now this is where a girl like me gets confused. I agree with you ,hence my wanting to know the minimum thickness spec for the plates, but I have been told not to worry about the springs. Hmmmmm. Preloading with washers seems a bit ummmmm sneaky. Ever had them fail?

No, but never had to do it myself. I do believe it's an old scotts remedie though. Arch eh de noo

Such canny folk when it comes to spending a few shingles.

**Mom** · 8th April 2009, 19:56

Originally Posted by Bonez

Is that at both ends of the cable Mom?

Off the top I will say yes, but to be honest I have not really, closely fiddled with her cables. Probably what I dont like is I cant adjust the clutch to release where I actually like it to be on the lever, and have had to get used to using it where it works. I dont use clutch on upshifts (much) and have been known to not use it downwards from time to time. Last time it was in the shop the job card warned clutch is about fried.

You need to talk to my people...LOL

**Mom** · 8th April 2009, 20:02

Originally Posted by Bonez

No, but never had to do it myself. I do believe it's an old scotts remedie though. Arch eh de noo

Such canny folk when it comes to spending a few shingles.

LOL..ok but, I dont want this clutch to be any harder to operate that it is now. I have girly hands afterall

and simply dont fancy a work out of ab-king-pro standards for my left hand when I stop and start.

**The Pastor** · 8th April 2009, 20:16

fwiw i replaced my springs when my clutch started to slip with heavy duty ones (same idea as the washers i guess) it cost me $30 for a set.

**Mom** · 8th April 2009, 20:18

Originally Posted by renegade master

fwiw i replaced my springs when my clutch started to slip with heavy duty ones (same idea as the washers i guess) it cost me $30 for a set.

So how much did that impact on the resistance, when you pulled the clutch lever in? Wonder if I should get this moved to the technical forums?

**Subike** · 8th April 2009, 20:41

This is a Yamaha clutch right?
And it is slipping Right?
Are you using friction reducuing engine oil?
Thats your problem ,
if not

there is still visable friction plate fibers, 2.7mm?
You are using the proper oil?
Clutch slips under power?

I had the same problem with my Yamaha XS1100.
Clutch slipped under power, yet there was plenty of friction plate left.

Solution.
Remove the 5 or 6 pressure plate springs, ( depending on model )
Add the washer off of a spark plug under the springs and reassemble.
This will give you a small increase in your pressure plate pressure against the worn clutch plate,
Allowing you to get a good deal more miles out of a seviceable clutch friction plate.
The only difference in operation is a slightly heavier clutch lever.

An alternative, which many bikers have used, is to ad one steel plate to the clutch pack. This will replace the "used" thickness of the friction plates and allow the clutch to grip as per normal and again extend the clutch life.
But requires the purchase of one second hand steel clutch pack disk.

Both of theses solutions I have used with success on my XS11, and the second was still in use after 3 years when I bought and installed a Bartlet performance clutch pack last winter.

Hope this is a little help, and others who have had experiance, please comment