RF900 Value

**MSTRS:Me** · 18th October 2006, 12:04

Originally Posted by Colapop

,,, probably got about 5k left on the rear tyre....

...at least on most of the circumference eh?

**Bend-it** · 18th October 2006, 13:42

Yeah, this one has exhaust done, pack rack, heated grips, new chain and sprockets. The deal on the table is now: Fix tyre, fork seal and brake pad, and I'll buy for $5k. We'll see how it goes... Like someone said before, there are afew around.

**Bussaman** · 18th October 2006, 16:34

Originally Posted by crazybigal

so give the box a good work out before you buy it.

Hehehe. Is that how it goes.

**Crazy Steve** · 18th October 2006, 16:45

Originally Posted by Bend-it

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Mo...n-73598878.htm

I'm looking at this bike, so had the owner take it in to the Suzuki delaership in Dunedin for a check.

This is what they found:

Problem ..................... Cost to fix
-------------------------------------------
Leaking fork seal ........... $300
Loose rubber mount ...... $50
on handlebar
Rear brake pads worn ..... $60
Rear tyre down to 1mm ... $300

Mileage is 34,797miles or 55,000+ kms. He wants $5300 for it.

What do you reckon? I'm inclined to ask him to fix the "faulty" things, i.e. fork seal and handlebar mount, and I'll accept the "worn" bits as part of buying a used bike.

So what do you think about value vs mileage etc?

Sorry but all I can get offered on My GSXR1000K3 done 14kms..Is 10k..

This RF900 is $3500 MAX..Without the fork seal leaks!!!!

Crazy Steve..

**Mental Trousers** · 18th October 2006, 17:56

One interesting thing to note is that it is virtually impossible to get hold of a 2nd hand alternator for an RF900. There's quite a few around at wreckers, but the alternators are all gone. Seems they don't like working when the k's get up a little.

**riffer** · 18th October 2006, 21:03

Bitch of a job to fix too, I've heard.

My RF900 is a late 95 model RS, first registered in 96. At the time of purchase it had 47500 on the clocks (miles), had excellent tyres, and seemed in pretty good allround nick.

It's now sitting on 59500 miles, has had a new DID 530 X-ring chain and sprockets ($300 all up from Maidstone Yamaha), new brake pads front and rear, new Z6 Roadtech front ($230 - WMCC) and Z4 rear ($70 2nd hand off F5 Dave) which still has a good 5,000 miles on it.

Add 3 oil changes in 12000 miles and that's about it.

I've rebuilt the brake calipers, regreased the axles, changed the wheel bearings and regreased the steering head bearings in the last month as well.

In winter I Vaselined the coils and low-tension leads to prevent misfiring in the rain (RF's are hideous for this).

This weekend I'll change out the fork oil and readjust and lube the chain.

My bike cost me $4750 to buy and about $1000 in the last year to maintain.

A bargain for the performance if you ask me.

Oh - and if you're interested here's how to get ridiculous amounts of power out of the RF:

1. 1992 GSX-R 750 cams (don't forget to redo the shims)
2. CDI from above
3. 4 degree advance digital pickup plate.
4. take the jets up a few sizes to give more petrol and replace air filter with free flow filter.

Reputed to give up to 140BHP with these mods according to some on the RF900R mailing list. To put that in perspective, that's wheeliing off the throttle in first and second under acceleration, without backing off the throttle first... something that's not easy on an RF unless you're sitting at the very back of the pillion seat.

**Bend-it** · 19th October 2006, 13:31

This alternator bearing thing... How available is a new one? How much is it? Just planning ahead since it seems to be failing on the RF900s.

**Chaosmage** · 20th October 2006, 10:45

Originally Posted by Bend-it

This alternator bearing thing... How available is a new one? How much is it? Just planning ahead since it seems to be failing on the RF900s.

I can answer this one

I just had it done recently, the part cost $47 or so, no worries. I asked the mechanic where I bought the part what the easiest way to install it was. His reply "don't even fuckin try, just don't" "you need to know what you are doing ra ra, I'll do it for 3hrs labour $260ish". Hmmmm what if I strip it down and bring you the main bit to work on. "na mate don't even try it". Anyways my dad is like I'll be able to do it etc we got it down the last bit and it was looking tricky(need a special tool). Took that bit to a different bike mechanic and he charged $$$20, so it pays to shop around and it sounds like you would be comfortable stripping some of the bike down?
I will send you the pages from manual we used, and or can find a link to the whole service workshop manual.

I purchased my bike couple years back, 97' RF 900R. Guy was asking $5,500 to buy now. After auction closed I got it for $5,200, it had pretty new tires, chain etc. Two bro's exhaust & I got him to throw in the bag with the pack rack. 47,000 Miles on the clockits around 57ish now and going strong.

So which bandit do you own? While we had my bike in the garage my dad luckily lent me his Bandit 1200 97' and I can safely say I missed my rf900 and was glad to have it back on the road.
I certainly wouldn't let the alternator issue put me off rf's, there is the odd post around here which is how I found out what the problem would most likely be.

**Chaosmage** · 25th October 2006, 12:55

Just in case anyone is interested, here's a link to an RF900 service manual.

http://users.pandora.be/botjes_place...e%20Manual.pdf

**biggles74** · 26th October 2006, 17:54

alternator bush went at 85000k at north cape of all places,absolutly bullet-proof motor otherwise , heavy pigs to push ,get the bush replaced soon as

**riffer** · 26th October 2006, 19:00

Even heavier to pick up too if you drop it. Ask Frosty.

**MacD** · 26th October 2006, 19:39

I think you'll find that the 94 "R" and 95 "S" models have a direct drive to the alternator so they don't suffer from the common failed rubber coupling problem. The coupling was added from the 96 "T" model as a precaution against shaft failure. Unfortunately the coupling didn't last much past 50K km. The replacement part is meant to be significantly more robust.

Here's a story of somebodies repair page with photos.

**Mental Trousers** · 26th October 2006, 20:46

Interesting thing #2. You're lucky if it's only the bearing that goes. Just ordered parts for one that fucked one of the pieces right beside the bearing. There is no longer a direct replacement available. To fix it you need to order a new generator drive shaft, bearing, c ring, circlip and collar. Don't ask how much that's going to cost. All of those bits (except the circlip) are currently on back order and will probably be another 2 weeks minimum.

**Mental Trousers** · 26th October 2006, 20:54

Parts 39 & 40 (22736-46E00 & 22740-46E00) from this diagram have been discontinued by Suzuki so the only fix available to the coupling distroying itself is to revert back to the original configuration ..... a case of the fix was worse than the problem.