No brake light and one cold pipe

[Donor]

Hey folks, I'm green as kermits bum, so apologies for any stupid questions.

My RZ250 is hopefully off to get a WOF today, however the brake light functions only from the foot brake, and not the hand brake. I'm sure it used to work from both - any hints?

Also, I have discovered that I am getting exhaust movements from both pipes, but only one of them is getting warm - is this a sign that one cylinder is not firing? It's a pig to start, in as much as 2 stroke kick start beasts can be after sitting neglected for a year or so, but idles and rides fine after a minute warming up.

Any input greatfully received...

[MSTRS:Me]

Bad earth, broken wire or probably corroded contact - front brake not operating the brake light.
1 cold pipe - I assume you mean the muffler? Corrosion blockage? Dunno. If it is a cold header then you have engine bothers....unlikely if idles/runes 'fine'

[Donor]

1 cold pipe - I assume you mean the muffler? Corrosion blockage? Dunno. If it is a cold header then you have engine bothers....unlikely if idles/runes 'fine'

Yeah sorry - the muffler, and right up to the block is stone cold, yet the bike rides up and down the drive just fine.

Bit smokey out the one side that does get warm, but it's a 2 stroke, and has been sitting for 14 months, so I'm not suprised there...

Sitting my learners at 2pm, so was hoping I could slope on up and get a WOF this arvo, and maybe even some rego, then I can PLAY!

**EDIT**

Just took the plug out of the side that was staying cold, gave it a bloody good seeing to with a wire brush, then gave it a nice bath in some petrol, followed by a goold olf fashioned burning, and now it's running on TWO cylinders, and warming both sides of the exhaust all the way to the muffler.

Now I just need to sort this bloody brake light out... any electrically minded people in Papakura fancy a coffee?

[Krayy]

I had the same problem on my VTR. Found it was actually 2 things:

#1 Bulb had blown. Had to get new rear lightbulb. Take it out (usually just take off the seat and you'll have access to the bulb cradle form there), and check to see if the wire is broken.

#2 Front brake microswitch was stuffed. Had to get a new one ($20 bucks from Cyclespot for a 3rd party one as opposed to $60 bucks for Honda original). Only issue is it now makes an audible *click* when the levers pulled. Can only hear it at idle so not a biggie.

Hope you find the problem.

[Krayy]

As an aside, the microswitch on the VTR is constantly on as the brake lever rests on the switch when fully extended. As it's pulled in, it release the microswicth activation the light, then when released, it pushes the switch in again. I'm assuming this is the norm on most bikes, so the switch unit would be located just next to the lever fulcrum on the underside of the control block (so that would be on the oppostie side to the kill switch).

[Ixion]

What year is it? if it's pre 1978 you don't need ANY brake lights, and a foot brake one is a bonus.

If it's post 78 you need both, and a front brake not working is almost certainly a stuffed microswitch in the front brake perch . Not theoretically serviceable BUT if you are canny and careful you can extract the switch barrel, and pull it apart.(Carefully though cos lots of little tabs can break off) . Problem is the little inside corrodes and loses its springy spinginess so the plunger doesn't push back and make contact. A ball point pen sping cut to length works well. Yamaha's tend to be inside the perch rather than under the lever.

[Disco Dan]

What year is it? if it's pre 1978 you don't need ANY brake lights, and a foot brake one is a bonus.

If it's post 78 you need both, and a front brake not working is almost certainly a stuffed microswitch in the front brake perch . Not theoretically serviceable BUT if you are canny and careful you can extract the switch barrel, and pull it apart.(Carefully though cos lots of little tabs can break off) . Problem is the little inside corrodes and loses its springy spinginess so the plunger doesn't push back and make contact. A ball point pen sping cut to length works well. Yamaha's tend to be inside the perch rather than under the lever.

woah, just about to start exact same thread!!

my front brake light switch stopped working yesterday, now off to pull it apart! (may have put it together wrong when i fitted the alarm wire into the starter switch on the handlebar!)

[Donor]

What year is it? if it's pre 1978 you don't need ANY brake lights, and a foot brake one is a bonus.

It's an 85 - but I think I have cracked it - just jiggled the 2 wires coming out of the switch, and it worked intermittently, so wiggled them one at a time, and bingo, I believe I have found a dodgy connection.

So, off up the road shortly to sit my licence test, then off to Repco to get a connector, then hopefully back to the testing station for a WOF!

[xwhatsit]

You lucky, lucky, lucky, lucky son of a bitch.

Who the hell gets an LC for their first bike?

Prick ^_^

Good luck with test/electrical stuff. I know a little about electrical type stuff in general so if you still can't figure it out, feel welcome to send me a PM and I can give you a hand if I still don't have exams.

[T.W.R]

It's an 85 - but I think I have cracked it - just jiggled the 2 wires coming out of the switch, and it worked intermittently, so wiggled them one at a time, and bingo, I believe I have found a dodgy connection.

So, off up the road shortly to sit my licence test, then off to Repco to get a connector, then hopefully back to the testing station for a WOF!

99% of the time it's a crook connection or a contaminated switch that causes those problems.

hope the test goes well but:

maybe should have done your places to visit in another order Repco, WOF, REGO then sit your test

[Donor]

I got my licence - woohoo!

Off to the garage to find my crimping tool, and spank a dodgy wire!

...and then try and find a bloody L plate - KNEW that I would forget something - ARSE!

[xwhatsit]

Get them from the $2 shop. They are the nice bendy-floppy-foldable ones. On an RZ250 I'm sure you won't exactly be following the learner's licence conditions, so do like me (I have to ride home after 10pm and haven't got exemption yet) and with these bendy L plates you just clip them onto your rear mudguard with a couple of bulldog clips, then take it off and stow it somewhere else when you need to un-learner yourself for a bit.

Congrats on the licence.

[Donor]

Well, got bounced on the WOF.

Front tyre worn
Left front indicator faded
Front brakes binding

So all in all, not too bad, and I got to do my first 15km on the bike!

Major bummer was, it dropped to 1 cylinder again after my brilliant arson on the plug. So rode back in second gear at 50kph, wouldn't go any faster and 3rd just killed it.

So, looks like a fun-filled weekend for me, fuggit all, a licence, a bike, and can't go anywhere!

[stanko]

Dont wast your time cleaning the plugs, just buy 2 new ones BR9ES they are cheap , get 4 ,2 for spares
pull your carbs to bits and blow out all the jets wit compressed air and reset the airscrews to the standard setting
While you are lying on the ground take the cover off the power valve mechinisim LH side of LH cylinder gently rotate it say +-15° either way and observe the coupling between the cylinders, quite often its rooted and wont turn the RH power valve spool

[geoffm]

The indicator lens might polish out, otherwise there are pattern ones available.
The front brakes will be a strip and clean job - the '85 Valves had the same brakes as the LC, and they sieze on the pins. Strip them, clean, grease the pins with anti-sieze and bleed the brakes. New seals will also help the performance. I had to get my LC ones from the UK, as no one brings in aftermarket kits any more in NZ.
Next thing to do is get a 350 top end...