Are you looking for well priced braided brake lines?

[Postie]

have a look here at

www.h-e-l.co.uk and www.helperformance.com.au

[degrom]

Just what I am after... Can you get them made locally for half the price? (OZ$219)

Will a hydraulics fitting place be able to make them for you?

I am thinking of getting them made for the old ZX-10.

[imdying]

Will a hydraulics fitting place be able to make them for you?

No, not ones legal for road use at least. I can make you some low expansion rubber ones (like OEM) for roughly $30+gst+freight each if you'd like. Nice new rubber ones are a world apart from old rooted rubber ones.

[The Stranger:Me]

Just what I am after... Can you get them made locally for half the price? (OZ$219)

Will a hydraulics fitting place be able to make them for you?

I am thinking of getting them made for the old ZX-10.

You can get them (legal ones) here for around $80.00 - $100.00 each.

[degrom]

No, not ones legal for road use at least. I can make you some low expansion rubber ones (like OEM) for roughly $30+gst+freight each if you'd like. Nice new rubber ones are a world apart from old rooted rubber ones.

Yes... I can think that they will feel a lot better!!!!

So why can't you use breaded one's?

Schrodoco sells
EARLS Stainless Steel Braided Hoses and Aluminum Fittings for Oil, Fuel, Brakes and Water on Competition Cars, Oil Coolers and Fittings.

I am sure breaded ones will be a lot better than the original rubber hoses I have that had to be replaced over 10 years ago. (According to the workshop manual... LOL)

[F5 Dave]

Alert in auckers do HEL lines with reqd legal numbers, pretty cheap, well they were 2 yrs ago.

[degrom]

Never Use Aluminium Fittings On Braking Systems

Some people sell aluminium brake line fittings for brake hoses. Not only is this a dangerous practice but you will also notice that they are normally sold with a 'for race use only' label as a possible legal get out clause for the company involved.

HEL and ALERT have never and will never use aluminium fittings or even washers on brake lines - Why ? When two metals with different electromotive force are placed together and are subjected to an electrically conductive fluid, 'electrolytic' corrosion takes place. If you are looking for a lightweight, corrosion resistant high strength alternative to stainless steel then we suggest you ask us about Titanium Fittings for Brake Hoses.

Electrolytic corrosion works on the same principles as a battery. Two metals, an anode and a cathode, are placed in fluid and an electrical reaction takes place which results in the softer metal being eroded due to electrolytic corrosion. Once these conditions are met, a "corrosion cell" is created, an electrical current will flow and metal will be consumed at the anode. The only way to remove this corrosion is by using metals of the same electromotive force (EMF). HEL / ALERT only use stainless steel* or titanium fittings on stainless steel hose for our onroad, race and motorcycle brake lines, which keeps the EMF constant across the system eliminating electrolytic corrosion.

As quoted from the Alert site..

[riffer]

So why can't you use breaded one's?

LTNZ have designated that lines must meet certain criteria to be safe to use in this country.

One of the criteria are the requirement to have a certain standard mark on them.

if they don't have the standard mark, they're not legal.

PITA, but some might say necessary.

However, looking at Schrodoco's site, they say the Earls lines are for brakes.

Give them a ring, and find out if they meet the requirements. Then let us know how much they'll cost.

[F5 Dave]

Never Use Aluminium Fittings On Braking Systems
. .. The only way to remove this corrosion is by using metals of the same electromotive force. . .[/I]

Well you could place a block of lead on them to act as a sacrificial member thus the lead is consumed. They do this with jettys etc if reqd apparently. Kinda offsets the weight saving though.

I'd prefer to buy them ready made, tested & legally numbered.

However I have made them for my race bike before & it was quite easy.

[imdying]

PITA, but some might say necessary.

There has been some dodgy shit done over the years, and some dodgy lines out there as a result. Marked lines cannot be disassembled and reassembled which is a big bonus for safety. The marks merely save every wof tester from having to be an expert on what is and isn't safe for automotive brake lines. This reduces the requirements on their skill set to visual inspection of damage and correct routing, which is far easier than having to know of all the different coupling types, and their suitability for street applications. The tidal wave of people bitching about being failed on lines that were 'fine last WOF' has mostly petered out now, so it hasn't taken long to clean up the industry which is a bit of a bonus.

[imdying]

However, looking at Schrodoco's site, they say the Earls lines are for brakes.

Give them a ring, and find out if they meet the requirements. Then let us know how much they'll cost.

Given that Schrodoc are members of the NZ Brake and Clutch Specialists Association (iirc), they should be able to supply street legal braided lines, or at least outwork to someone who does, given that the equipment to manufacture them is readily available now.

[F5 Dave]

Biggest issue was people undoing them & repositioning the fitting then doing them up again. Most old ones had a sacrificial olive. (Gee there is a lot of Sacrificial in this thread, may upset some of uneasy dispossession) Or making lines that were too short for full extension (wheelies).

I gotta say I was a bit pissed that my lines that were made & tested by a registered hydraulic company & previously type approved by LTSA were now no longer ok. But on the offside they got a new life on the race bikes. Finding olives may be getting hard now though. Was thinking of making up the last one for the YZF clutch when I rekit the slave cylinder which is getting dicky. Bet VTNZ would probably grizzle about that haha

[imdying]

Biggest issue was people undoing them & repositioning the fitting then doing them up again. Most old ones had a sacrificial olive. Or making lines that were too short for full extension (wheelies).

This man speaketh the truth.

That exact issue was the biggest problem with braided lines. The amount of bike calipers I've seen come in for repair with the hose undone there would scare ya.

[The Stranger:Me]

Never Use Aluminium Fittings On Braking Systems

HEL and ALERT have never and will never use aluminium fittings or even washers on brake lines - Why ? When two metals with different electromotive force are placed together and are subjected to an electrically conductive fluid, 'electrolytic' corrosion takes place. If you are looking for a lightweight, corrosion resistant high strength alternative to stainless steel then we suggest you ask us about Titanium Fittings for Brake Hoses.

Funny old world isn't it.

The aluminium joinery industry used to (and I believe still does) make extensive use of SS fasteners. When I was in construction we would use SS fasteners for aluminium all the time and I have never seen either fail due to corrosion. I have seen steel fail frequently in such circumstances.

So anyway, what washers should one use with SS fittings? I have only seen copper and aluminium washers.

Which of course leads one to wonder if ali and SS are bad together how bad must it be to have a SS banjo against an ali caliper.

I smell bullshit somewhere.

Many moons ago we toured the Boeing factory in Seattle. I noted the extensive use of aluminium and enquired why they didn't use titanium. They replied that it corroded easier and earlier and thus had a shorter life.

[Sensei]

Euro Bike here sells NZ LTA standard brake lines . If it does not have the connection crimped into the Braided line then it is not Legal !!!!!!!. All so must have Coded numbers of compilance on them under the Clear Safety cover over the top of the braide as well or not legal either . they sell these in lenghts that increase by 25mm each size . Cost about $180 for a complete fit set up for the front of your bike .