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Mountie
6th October 2008, 21:29
The TW42 is an excellent rear tyre have had two on the back and even worn hang on like they were new both gravel and hard seal riding. Put an anakee on recently softer copound see how that goes

NordieBoy
7th October 2008, 06:54
I too have just suffered the dissapointment of a new rear , seem to get a bit more control on the gravel with the baldy and you can slide it around more , new ones much better on the grass and clay tho ,also better for getting WOF's

Lucky there's no grass or clay around your place then.

warewolf
11th October 2008, 21:34
I like the TW42 because of the soft compound,and the tread pattern is about as street as I like to go.I put the carcase as a medium flex - it was pretty easy to fit,not like the rock hard T63.Had a look around the Bridgestone site and the only Trail Wing to suit the 640A is the "new" TW301/2, which seems similar to the TW42. It's actually a homologated tyre for the bike; I might have to give them a run next time I want a fairly road-oriented tyre.

I've just changed the T63 that was fitted by the shop, the carcass I'd only rate as about a medium-ish. Probably softer than the MT21, BUT and it is a big but (as opposed to a big butt, sister) I was using a mate's flash KTM tyre levers that make the task utterly effortless. I blagged them so that I would have minimal grief given your warning, so they may have masked the tough carcass. I'll use my normal levers when I swap the T63 back on to see what it is really like.

I'd sell my first-born for a set of those KTM levers, they are just the perfect shape. Really do make light work of it.

Motu
11th October 2008, 22:26
I used a tyre machine to fit my T63,and it was a tough fit.Definatly the stiffest carcase I've ever seen.Maybe it had sat under a roof in summer and hardened up.I was looking at the TW301,and if there was one in my size I might have gone for it.

NordieBoy
12th October 2008, 08:03
I'd sell my first-born for a set of those KTM levers, they are just the perfect shape. Really do make light work of it.

Keeping you up at night is he?

:laugh:

CrazyFrog
20th October 2008, 17:27
Had a look around the Bridgestone site and the only Trail Wing to suit the 640A is the "new" TW301/2, which seems similar to the TW42. It's actually a homologated tyre for the bike; I might have to give them a run next time I want a fairly road-oriented tyre.

I ran the 301/302 combo on my ex XT600E, appeared to be a good knobbly/road compromise, and found them great in the dry and gravel, but hideous on wet seal. :shit: The XT ain't no powerhorse, but I found when I cracked on the gas in the wet, the rear was forever squirming around and getting far too twitchy to feel comfortable. It wore very quickly as well, but they are bloody cheap compared with Pirelli's, and Michelins.
Also rode TW42's, wore well, gripped like poos on a blanket, and was surprisingly good on gravel. I don't think they make them for 18" rears tho.

homer
20th October 2008, 17:34
Have you looked at the Mitas E07, it looks like a good tyre that may suit what you want to do with it?

deffinately a good combination .

warewolf
20th October 2008, 18:05
but hideous on wet seal. :shit: Hence the nickname, "Death Wings" :D

Thanks for the info.

NordieBoy
20th October 2008, 19:29
Hence the nickname, "Death Wings" :D

Thanks for the info.

But the TW42 gets that nickname from hamfisted yanks abusing it offroad.
It's not a knobbly, it's a general purpose tyre. Treat it as such and it'll work fine.

Mrs Jatz has the 302(?) on the back of the Tenere and it looks quite nice.

JATZ
20th October 2008, 19:55
Trail wing 302 front and rear on the Tenere seem to work pretty good although Mrs Jatz rides like a nana. Guy we got the bike off said they were the best he'd found for grip vs. mileage.
Trailwing TW42 front and rear on the F650 she had. Absolutly no problems with it at all, she prefered it to the TKC 80 on the seal and it went o.k. on gravel too.It did every thing she wanted it to.(horses for courses I guess)

warewolf
20th October 2008, 20:34
But the TW42 gets that nickname from hamfisted yanks abusing it offroad.
It's not a knobbly, it's a general purpose tyre. Treat it as such and it'll work fine.Gets that moniker from Tiger riders wrt wet tarseal.

NordieBoy
20th October 2008, 20:45
Gets that moniker from Tiger riders wrt wet tarseal.

The DR needs a handfull on gravel to do what the Tiger does with a handful on seal.

Motu
20th October 2008, 20:49
It's perhaps unfortunate that Bridgestone call all their dual purpose tyres ''Trail Wings''.There are a lots of them,and they are all very good....for their intended purpose.But for unintended use they are crap.Pity people have a bad experience using them for something they are crap at,and then say they are a crap tyre.They are right,for the wrong reason.

JATZ
20th October 2008, 20:53
Your more than welcome to try Mrs Jatz ride one day werewolf, see what you think of the TW302('course you have to be gentle......."yeah right")

warewolf
20th October 2008, 21:03
"Fit for purpose"

If I had a dollar for every time someone said something like, "these TKC80s are so much better in the dirt than the OEM Trail Wings..." Comparing an 80/20 tyre to a 50/50 is meaningless, but happens a lot.

Reckon I'll still give them a go. Nothing could be as bad as a Kenda K270. Ta for the offer Jatz. I'm not a fan of TKC80s, either, so maybe like Mrs Jatz I might get along with the Trailwings better.

Oscar
20th October 2008, 21:20
"Fit for purpose"

If I had a dollar for every time someone said something like, "these TKC80s are so much better in the dirt than the OEM Trail Wings..." Comparing an 80/20 tyre to a 50/50 is meaningless, but happens a lot.

.

I'll take that bet!
You put Deathwings on yer 640 and I'll put TKC's on mine.
How many surfaces would you like to compare on?

warewolf
20th October 2008, 21:49
It's not about whether or not you prefer TKC80s over Deathwings, but whether *I* do. But if you want to buy me a set of TKC80s for another test, don't let me hold you back. Until then, there's plenty of alternatives for me to try.

I don't like Bridgestone sports-touring tyres, so being prepared to at least try their dual-purpose range is a big step for me.

Underground
21st October 2008, 09:21
I use both at the same time ,saves any controversy and works real well, tkc front tw42 rear

NordieBoy
21st October 2008, 15:43
I use both at the same time ,saves any controversy and works real well, tkc front tw42 rear

Or doubles the controversy.

You paid toooo much for the front and the rear will kill you.

_Shrek_
21st October 2008, 18:27
It's not about whether or not you prefer TKC80s over Deathwings, but whether *I* do. But if you want to buy me a set of TKC80s for another test, don't let me hold you back. Until then, there's plenty of alternatives for me to try.

I don't like Bridgestone sports-touring tyres, so being prepared to at least try their dual-purpose range is a big step for me.

I had the Trail wings on my Gs650 found them ok on road & metal, not that flash on wet tar seal
I run Eo7's front & rear, they have a bit of road noise but handle well in the wet on & off the seal, I average 16k rear 20k front thats as long as I'm treating them right lol

pampa
22nd October 2008, 21:28
Hi all, I'm looking to replace my front tyre (currently TKC80) for maybe a Michelin Baja or T63, any suggestion/comment/advice? I currently have a rear Michelin Baja and I'm very pleased with it seems to last :niceone: ... is ok on the road (bit noise) and ok offroad for my riding.

Take into account that I sometimes commute, and I'd also like to try new tyres so won't be buying another TKC.

Thanks in advance

Padmei
23rd October 2008, 06:52
Pampa did you like the TKC80? what kind of riding road & gravel & a few tracks?

pampa
23rd October 2008, 10:19
Pampa did you like the TKC80? what kind of riding road & gravel & a few tracks?

The TKC was alright lasted a lot around 11000K+ so far and is still going (did 6000k on Dakar and 5000k on Xchallenge which is lighter). Did gravel , sand and stony-beachs and bit rougher places not getting quite to single track but kind firebreaks and not well maintained 4x4 tracks. It behaves well on the road cannot notice the difference with a tourance, but if it gets muddy then is likely not the tire but its probably not intended for it anyway.

Cheers,
Pampa

Padmei
23rd October 2008, 19:49
Thanks.

PAdmei

Woodman
30th October 2008, 20:36
A lot it really is about how you live and learn to ride with the tyre(s) you have chosen. There is no perfect tyre really, and you gotta give each one a chance, and to be honest it is what makes this kind of riding enjoyable.

cooneyr
30th October 2008, 22:10
For those who like their front tyre aggressive this tyre may be worth checking out - Pirelli Scorpion MX Hard 486 (http://www.pirellityre.com/web/catalog/moto/moto_catalogo_schedaDescription.page). It is DOT (even though the rears appear not to be). Cost $99 (probably closer to $110 normally - Don at Pit Lane was being nice this arvo) each for a front.

<a href="http://www.pirellityre.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://www.pirellityre.com/en_IT/browser/attachments/images/MOTO%20catalog_long/Dettaglio%20Battistrada/imgdet_scorpion%20mx%20Hard%20486.jpg" border="0" alt="Pirelli Scorpion MX Hard 486"></a>

We came across these in Alex over Q's Bday after El Scooto cut a nice big hole in his newish D606 front. Not a lot of experiance with them yet but both El Scooto and I have new 486's ready to go on the XTZ750's (along with the Michy Desert's when they come). We are hoping because of the single row of blocks around the centre they will wear better than the D606/MT21 and expect they will be better of the seal.

Will report back in a couple of months with how they are going.

Cheers R

Following up re this front tyre. Seems to handle cornering as good as gold on the seal, doesn't mind deep loose gravel but can get interesting on good gravel roads and will find every grove/longitudinal depression on a road. Cornering on grooved hotmix where the groves go around the corner rather than transverse across the road is fun.

I suspect it is the XTZ compared to the DR but I can definitely get the front to wash out much more now on good gravel roads. It is predictable and controllable washing (more throttle helps) but a little "exciting" none the less. I suspect it is cause the XTZ has lots of weight on the front end.

Will probably try a D606 front next time as I an use to them on the DR just for comparison purposes.

Cheers R

warewolf
31st October 2008, 08:22
Be real interested in your comparison thoughts re: the D606 on the two bikes, partly to see what you think of the handling of the two bikes given the common tyre.

When I saw the advertisement for that Pirelli 486, one look at the tread pattern and I thought, that's the ticket!! Didn't make the association when you first mentioned them. Not surprising it grabs longitudinal troughs, the tread looks very linear - the two go hand in hand. Now I wonder if it will show favourable characteristics as in Motu's pick (K190?) which also looks somewhat linear.

talbertnz
31st October 2008, 08:44
Hi all,
I'm currently running pure street tires pirelli mt75 front and sport demon rear on my DR 650.
Being in auckland the only gravel riding i do would be over xmas in coromandel etc. and the odd weekend outing.
The street pirellis are awsome and give a LOT of confidence peg scraping trough the coromandel twisties. Thats the way i like riding...
As I dont have a lot of gravel road/off road experience How fast do you ride with your favorite gravel tyres??
I can only just outrun a FAST local 4x4 ute on the gravel roads :D with these tyres.. Is that slow???
I just read this thread from back to front and it seems that most people like the Mitas E07 as the best compromise tyre..
pretty sure i had some mt21 on before i swapped to road tyres i HATED the tractor tyre noise and vibrations they made.
The COMPROMISE!! tyre I want:
1.Verry Road capable, I like my extreme lean angles! but am willing to give up some lean ability if need be...
2. better in gravel and dry off road, dry grass, beach? then my street combo.
3. Dont think i'll be doing a lot of muddy stuff.
4. 21 Mt75 front looks to gay to be true!!!! esp. with the purple frame thats why i've painted it silver now! ;D
5. Is the E07 realy all that noisey compared to street tyre or ??????
6. I like the milage you guys are getting out of the E07!!! And also seems good price.
7.Dont want and dont have!!! mega bucks to pay for a pair of tyres (read wear item) :P
Previous tyres i've had where:
Pirelli mt83s.
http://faq.f650.com/FAQs/Photos/WheelPhotos/PirelliMt60FrontRear_small.jpg
on cagiva canyon 500 (back in holland). didnt like it much didn't stick on the seal much at all verry slippery in corners. never really used it off road but in the (wet) grass/paddock it didnt seem to grip anymore then the BT45.
and they started to wear quick and weirdly wich made the bike wobble under hard braking.

Brigestone BT45. on cagiva canyon 500. Loved it. On road only. Has hard compound middle and soft outer for cornering. could easily keep up with cbr 600's etc in corners. On the 19 front of the canyon it looked about as girly as I could handle.. never took them off road.
http://tbn0.google.com/images?q=tbn:zJRjleEVMTl-LM:http://www.helmetheadcyclegear.com/Images/eShop
Mt21s (I Think) on the DR. I did like them on the gravel back roads and trough the paddocks back in the waikato. they where ok on road to quite predictable in corners. they did lock up once and ended up crashing because of a bit off loose grit on a seal backroad intersection... was only doing 15kmh, deciding if id go left or right and sllllliiiip there i was kissing the seal!
they wore terribly fast! (90%road riding)
once i moved to f***n auckland they drove me nuts on the motorway vibs and tractor tyre noise. reminded me of a john deere i used to drive on the road at 60kmh.. :D so then i changed them to the road combo i got now.
http://tbn0.google.com/images?q=tbn:hEoA0Pie20amQM:http://faq.f650.com/FAQs/Photos/WheelPhotos/PirelltMt21FrontRear.jpg
MT75 front and sportdemon rear
http://tbn0.google.com/images?q=tbn:8GFngNxvoqLoLM:http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/ProductImages/300/0000_Pirelli_MT_75_Rear_Tire_--.jpg

http://tbn0.google.com/images?q=tbn:XClxQtb2XhykgM:http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/ProductImages/300/SportDemonRear.jpg

Are the Mitas E07 what i want?
http://tbn0.google.com/images?q=tbn:fi6Rg6BK22eVgM:http://www.advrider.com/forums/attachment.php%3Fattachmentid%3D79433%26stc%3D1%26 d%3D1153954883

What size should i look for on the dr 90/90-21 front and 120/90-17 rear right?
or 130/19-17???

Wat about the Pirelli mt90 a/t??? seems reasonable price dont like the price tag of the mt90 s/t http://cycletreads.retail.sprint3.com/package/webservice/kernel_images_thumbnailRender.asp?strImageCode=26. 264

OOps this became a bit of a big post.. sorry..

Motu
31st October 2008, 20:07
Dunlop K70 - 4.00x18.....front and rear.The tyre and the bike they are going on might stretch the thinking of some here - but it's just me doing what I have always done....riding on gravel.Man,it's fat on the front....the guard has to go,and the fork brace will need lifting.

I've had plenty of experience with the K70....the XS1 with flattrack bars and a 3.50x 19 on the front handled better than a lot of dirt bikes with knobs.Gene Romero seemed to do ok with them on his Triumph.

Ixion
31st October 2008, 20:33
Interesting concept (that wheel's pretty distinctive) . Even with street tyres the BMW is quite decent on gravel. And they didn't change much for the GS.

Motu
31st October 2008, 22:00
Yes,it's manners on gravel cinched it for me that it was a bike I could bend to my ways.I didn't want to lose too much road handling by going to an adventure tyre,and as the K180 was not available (but listed,grrrr) the K70 was next on the list.The profile allows it to get into the gravel,and the tread blocks give good traction and braking control.A BMW is a bike for a long term relationship,and there is plenty of time for us to grow together and enjoy some nice rides....we will be discussing who will need to change,and how we go about it....Big changes for both of us,but it will be worth it in the long run.

They had to use the K70 and Pirelli MT53 on the dirt tracks until the mid '70's as the later tyres were no good on the ovals,tyres like the K81 (TT100) had wider profiles and poor traction blocks.That's why the K180 was designed as a purpose built dirt track tyre - they needed a high speed DOT off road tyre.

Paladin
7th November 2008, 09:54
I'm new to adv riding and thought it would be a good idea to get my KLX out on the trails to learn what off road riding was all about. Met up with an experienced friend and took it out on the Totara Park Trail Ride on Nov 2nd.
At the start car park had several people tell me "those tyres are gonna be fun today"!
Holy smokes the stock Dunlops are scarily inadequate on deep, churned up or greasy mud, although they were fine on the gravel.

I was recommended to put some Kenda K760's on as a fairly good compromise for wear/grip/price, but still road legal - any advice on those or alternatives would be appreciated!

Cheers,
Dave

PLUG
7th November 2008, 10:03
K760's ... if thats the trackmaster ... use em' me self ... ticks all the boxes for me

Paladin
7th November 2008, 10:08
K760's ... if thats the trackmaster ... use em' me self ... ticks all the boxes for me

Cheers, yeah the Trackmasters, they look like they'd do the job on gravel and mud; how are they on the road though?

PLUG
7th November 2008, 10:17
how are they on the road though?

chicken strip half way down on the outside knob ... can tip it in pretty hard & be agressive in the dry ... smoothness is the key in the wet ... need to open up the braking distances a bit & blip the throttle on down changes in the wet

clint640
7th November 2008, 10:19
K760's ... if thats the trackmaster ... use em' me self ... ticks all the boxes for me

Yep, I gotta set of those for my trail ride tyres too, they're probably about as aggressive as you get in a road legal tyre. Anything worthy of a trail ride is gunna be short-lived arse on the tarseal though, it's best to just swap something on for the ride then swap back - keeps ya in practice at changing tyres too. Trail rides are sooo much more fun on decent knobs :2thumbsup

On a different note, I'd like to report in on the performance of my Mitas E-07 rear, I've got around 2000km on it now & I like it. It's wearing well, grips nicely on tar & gravel & does better than expected in mud. I think it may become my new rear tyre of choice.

Cheers
Clint

Paladin
7th November 2008, 10:35
Thanks guys!

Dave

talbertnz
7th November 2008, 11:08
On a different note, I'd like to report in on the performance of my Mitas E-07 rear, I've got around 2000km on it now & I like it. It's wearing well, grips nicely on tar & gravel & does better than expected in mud. I think it may become my new rear tyre of choice.


Wohhoo now where do we get these mitas from???
i'm in Auckland...

NordieBoy
7th November 2008, 15:22
On a different note, I'd like to report in on the performance of my Mitas E-07 rear, I've got around 2000km on it now & I like it. It's wearing well, grips nicely on tar & gravel & does better than expected in mud. I think it may become my new rear tyre of choice.

With what on the front?

clint640
10th November 2008, 07:24
Wohhoo now where do we get these mitas from???
i'm in Auckland...

Just give LMS Imports in Palmy a call, number is on their website along with their product range & sizes etc: http://www.lmsimports.co.nz/



With what on the front?

Still got the trusty TKC80 on the front. The E0-7 front didn't look aggressive enough to me & I'm pretty happy with the way the TKC performs.

Cheers
Clint

Peril
10th November 2008, 11:47
K760's ... if thats the trackmaster ... use em' me self ... ticks all the boxes for me

How many Km's have you got out of yours before they're throw away?
I'm in two minds for the Dusty Butt to get another one of these,or put an E-07 on my spare road rim and use that for it.
The Trakmaster that came with the bike is getting a bit 2nd hand now with the middle knobs getting quite rounded and some of the outer ones being ripped apart,but still has around 3-4 mm of tread.I would guestimate it's done around 2-2500kms to be like that.

XF650
10th November 2008, 14:05
I have used EO7, Kenda TrackMaster & EO9 on the Freewind.
EO7 was the better for mostly road work & hard pack gravel, but clogged easy with mud plus lower pressures best for thick gravel.
Trackmaster was the other extreme - excellent traction in rough going incl mud, but fast wear on seal. Scarey on wet seal - basically a road legal knobbly. An alternative to the Trackmaster is the BFGoodrich Crossengo, which is what I use on the DT230.
EO9's seem a great compromise, offering surprisingly good grip on seal & yet still wearing well. Excellent tyre on gravel plus copes well enough with mud. They are very similair to TKC80 but way cheaper.

I did this years DB on EO7's but discovered I have "special needs" i.e. I ride like a nana on steep descents.
So for the next DB I will use EO9's.

Peril
10th November 2008, 16:01
I have used EO7, Kenda TrackMaster & EO9 on the Freewind.
EO7 was the better for mostly road work & hard pack gravel, but clogged easy with mud plus lower pressures best for thick gravel.
Trackmaster was the other extreme - excellent traction in rough going incl mud, but fast wear on seal. Scarey on wet seal - basically a road legal knobbly. An alternative to the Trackmaster is the BFGoodrich Crossengo, which is what I use on the DT230.
EO9's seem a great compromise, offering surprisingly good grip on seal & yet still wearing well. Excellent tyre on gravel plus copes well enough with mud. They are very similair to TKC80 but way cheaper.

I did this years DB on EO7's but discovered I have "special needs" i.e. I ride like a nana on steep descents.
So for the next DB I will use EO9's.

Thats what I'm a bit concerned about.
I have an E-09 and a Trakmaster,but since the TM came with the bike,I don't know how long they really last.
The E-09 has been on for about 5000kms and is a good compromise,but I can be quite aggressive on the throttle and like my grip offroad,which the E-09 can lack in few situations.
On the other side,I'd hate to ride up there on a newish TrakMaster,do the DB1K,then find I've killed the rear tyre :blink: and try to get home again.

I could always get wifey to bring the spare rim up with her in the car & swap over the night before the ride etc etc.....Hmm.

cooneyr
10th November 2008, 17:27
....On the other side,I'd hate to ride up there on a newish TrakMaster,do the DB1K,then find I've killed the rear tyre :blink: and try to get home again.

I could always get wifey to bring the spare rim up with her in the car & swap over the night before the ride etc etc.....Hmm.

I almost killed a D606 which isn't that diff from an E09 on the last DB. The tyres don't get a chance to cool down on the DB so they seem to melt unless the pressures are high. You really don't need that much traction for the DB1k, a couple of fellas last year did the DB on "slicks" (90/10) tyre. It is pretty good gravel most of the time with all of about 50kms of dirt tracks that are not too hard to ride. An E09 would be about the most aggressive tyre you need.

Cheers R

Transalper
10th November 2008, 17:53
Was thinking freshish E07s would be fine, Mangatapu and Porika (the return run) would be my only concern and more really only if it'd been raining enough to make them muddy.
Done the Mangatapu on a balding E07 and it was generally fine, of course i didn't stop and try starting again on any steep bits.
Still I got knobs so I imagine I'll be using them again.
Suppose this post almost fits the DB thread better.

Motu
10th November 2008, 17:53
Wear rate is directly related to wheelspin - the Trackmaster lasted 4,000km on the XT400,which didn't wheelspin at all.Halve that for the XT600 and DT230 which are spinning all the time in gravel.I found them pretty good on seal,you can get some good lean angles,but you just have to be smooth and gentle while you are down there...otherwise you will end up a lot closer to the road.I run fairly low pressures - they will flex and bend,walk out or slide in corners,but all pretty predictable all the same.

NordieBoy
10th November 2008, 18:29
I think I'll be using the MT21 on the front with either an E-07 or even Shinko SR244 on the rear for the Dusty.

E-07's would be sweet unless like TA says - recent heavy rain.

I'd like to try another cheap SR244 to compare with the MT21 rear now the rear suspension is doing more what it's supposed to.
1/2 the price and better mileage.

JATZ
10th November 2008, 19:10
Got a Trackmaster rear on at the moment, I was gunna keep it for the DB but I couldn't help myself.
I don't like it on the seal at all, mind you I scare easily:gob:
I wouldn't bother with another one, seems like a bit of over kill for the ridding I do

Kevnz
10th November 2008, 19:44
[QUOTE=talbertnz;1791005]Hi all,
I'm currently running pure street tires pirelli mt75 front and sport demon rear on my DR 650.
Being in auckland the only gravel riding i do would be over xmas in coromandel etc. and the odd weekend outing...
Have you had a look at the Mitas E08? Look same as a Michilin Sirac which I had on my DR250 and found them excellent for road and dry gravel roads. I have just ordered some E08's for my DR650, will be here end of the month so will let you know what they are like.

Woodman
10th November 2008, 21:19
[QUOTE=talbertnz;1791005]Hi all,
I'm currently running pure street tires pirelli mt75 front and sport demon rear on my DR 650.
Being in auckland the only gravel riding i do would be over xmas in coromandel etc. and the odd weekend outing...
Have you had a look at the Mitas E08? Look same as a Michilin Sirac which I had on my DR250 and found them excellent for road and dry gravel roads. I have just ordered some E08's for my DR650, will be here end of the month so will let you know what they are like.

Me KLR had Anikee front and rear, and I tell you what I was surprised how well they grip off road and of course they were superb onroad. Got a tw301 on rear now but already half worn at about 1000ks.

XF650
10th November 2008, 21:33
EO8's were first tyres I had on the Freewind - very similair to Metzler Tourance. Great road tyre & OK on dry, hard pack gravel.
Horrible on deep / loose gravel & usless on wet gravel.
But it comes down to the rider skill - some of the guns on here prefer tyre compond over tread depth & cleat shape anyway.

talbertnz
11th November 2008, 08:07
[QUOTE=talbertnz;1791005]Hi all,
I'm currently running pure street tires pirelli mt75 front and sport demon rear on my DR 650.
Being in auckland the only gravel riding i do would be over xmas in coromandel etc. and the odd weekend outing...
Have you had a look at the Mitas E08? Look same as a Michilin Sirac which I had on my DR250 and found them excellent for road and dry gravel roads. I have just ordered some E08's for my DR650, will be here end of the month so will let you know what they are like.

Thanks for the reply, yes let us know how you find the E08's,
I'm pretty sure I'll be trying the E07's next tho,
Do they make any noise on the seal ala knoblie???

Kevnz
11th November 2008, 19:40
[QUOTE=Kevnz;1804770]

Thanks for the reply, yes let us know how you find the E08's,
I'm pretty sure I'll be trying the E07's next tho,
Do they make any noise on the seal ala knoblie???

The Siracs were not noisy at all so I imagine the E08s will be the same. Have read that they wear really well on this site and others and as most of my riding is on road and just the odd bit of gravel should suit me just fine. Hope to have them arrive and on by the end of November :2thumbsup

Kevnz
11th November 2008, 19:51
[QUOTE=Kevnz;1804770]

Me KLR had Anikee front and rear, and I tell you what I was surprised how well they grip off road and of course they were superb onroad. Got a tw301 on rear now but already half worn at about 1000ks.

I have the Trail Wing 42, standard tire on DR when new, and it is looking half worn after 1600kms. It likes to let go every now and then when it fells like it so time for a change. Just need to check out what pressures to run on the road as this makes a huge difference to wear, so I found out. Brought myself a decent foot pump and check the pressure every Sunday morning without fail, better than going to church,Amen

NordieBoy
16th November 2008, 07:37
A new version of the E-09...

Mitas E-09 Dakar (http://www.motorcycletyres.net.au/shop/product.php?productid=16208&cat=256&page=1).
Reinforced Bead and Carcass.
Compound Upgraded for Tough Dakar Rally Conditions.
Specifically designed for Competition Rally Conditions.

tri boy
16th November 2008, 08:53
Didn't think the E-09 needs a more reinforced bead and carcass/sidewall.
They must really work them hard in Europe.
Compared my 7000km old one with the the Deano's yesterday, about 2/3rd worn. Really like them.

warewolf
16th November 2008, 10:09
A new version of the E-09...That one's been a-round (sic :weep:) ever since E-09s were first mooted on here.


Didn't think the E-09 needs a more reinforced bead and carcass/sidewall.
They must really work them hard in Europe.I've said before that the E-09 closely resembles the Michelin T-63. There is also a tougher version of the T-63, called the Desert: stronger carcass and harder tread compound.

They are considered 'the schizz' by some in Aussie. Good for long distance high-load high-heat conditions - race or tour.

tri boy
16th November 2008, 10:42
A great tyre it is.;)
They feel a bit more ponderous on initial turn in, but it is very good value (at the moment) compared with TKC's. (probably my favourite hoop, fr n rear on fatty).
Eitherway, I wont fault either, as my riding nerve gives up earlier than the tyre ability in both cases. (wet roads are still an issue though), maybe they could develop a heavy tread pattern , with dispersion grooves. Just a thought.

cooneyr
16th November 2008, 12:18
A new version of the E-09...

Mitas E-09 Dakar (http://www.motorcycletyres.net.au/shop/product.php?productid=16208&cat=256&page=1).
Reinforced Bead and Carcass.
Compound Upgraded for Tough Dakar Rally Conditions.
Specifically designed for Competition Rally Conditions.

Hmmm. This one has me interested since the 17inch deserts seem to be getting hard to find. Comes in a 140 as well. Probably wont come into NZ though - be bugger all demand for them here I'm guessing. Going for an E09 rear next.

Cheers R

johannvr
19th November 2008, 08:06
I've just put a new set of T-63's on the DR -15% off RRP on Michelins for November at "that" tyre shop, so got the set for a shade over 200 bucks ...

Will report back from time to time how they fare - riding at the moment is prolly about 70% tarseal & 30% metal/gravel, so let's see what the mileage & wear rates look like

CRM
19th November 2008, 08:22
Just got some Michelin AC10s for the XR6. They look nice and aggressive and from overseas reports I've read they sound good. Can't find any references on here - anybody used them?

The IRC Trail Winner GP110R's on it at the moment are great on the road/gravel but hopeless in grass. Rode to Auckland on Monday through the Kaukapakapa Rd (lots of twisty seal) and it was huge fun. I assume the AC10's will be fairly poor for that sort of thing, so still looking for a spare set of wheels so i can do a quick change - anybody got some XR600 or XR400 wheels they want to sell?

Thanks

Waihou Thumper
22nd November 2008, 17:25
Just got some Michelin AC10s for the XR6. They look nice and aggressive and from overseas reports I've read they sound good. Can't find any references on here - anybody used them?

The IRC Trail Winner GP110R's on it at the moment are great on the road/gravel but hopeless in grass. Rode to Auckland on Monday through the Kaukapakapa Rd (lots of twisty seal) and it was huge fun. I assume the AC10's will be fairly poor for that sort of thing, so still looking for a spare set of wheels so i can do a quick change - anybody got some XR600 or XR400 wheels they want to sell?

Thanks


Just put a pair of these on the KTM, rode home and it sounded like a four wheel drive I used to have...lol
Good tyres though and it has sure added a few inches to the height of the bike and looks mean as hell and ready for anything!
At the price they were, I guess I can afford to wear them out on the road and have a bit of fun at the same time.

cooneyr
23rd November 2008, 09:37
Did 660kms yesterday. The desert handled the dist pretty well though I did managed to knock a couple of mm of tread of it. I have some serious issues with bike set up at the moment in that I was locking the rear wheel all the time due no feel I suspect I have old school sintered pads and I couldn't drive out of the corners, was spinning, which I suspect is due to too much shock preload. Hopefully both of these issues are easily fixed but the Desert got a pretty hard time yesterday.

The front MX486 is pretty much toast after 2000kms. All of the blocks on the second row from the centre (transversely) are badly worn and of these blocks every third one (circumferentially) is split in half. The third row out is also showing signs (cracking) of significant stress. I highly suspect this is cause they were never designed for a 220km tractor running at close to 100kph for hours on end. Anyway D606 front going on very shortly.

Cheers R

warewolf
23rd November 2008, 11:53
I have some serious issues with bike set up at the moment in that I was locking the rear wheel all the time due no feel I suspect I have old school sintered pads and I couldn't drive out of the corners, was spinning, which I suspect is due to too much shock preload.Does this help?



www.teknikracing.com (http://www.teknikracing.com)

Symptoms of too much low speed rebound damping:
Rear end tends to wash out or slide-out on hard packed sweeper turns with small bumps especially off chamber “Washboard” sections does not develop good braking power. Poor rear wheel hook up when accelerating over series of small bumps or ”washboard” sections. In general, rear end seems to be well controlled in the situations it is not oscillating up and down too much but it just doesn’t seem to develop good traction.

Note: All these problems arise because the excess damping keeps the rear wheel from extending fast enough to follow the low spots between the small bumps the result is poor traction.

Symptoms of too little low speed rebound damping:
The symptoms here are similar to the above tendency to slide out on “washboard” turns and poor braking over washboard sections .e.g. the critical difference in this case is that the back of the bike is bouncing up and down too much. Where as with to much kicking up especially noticeable when braking on downhill sections with small bumps or washboard surface.

Rear end does not hook up:
1. Re-check the rear suspension sag. Not enough preload can cause this.
2. Reduce the rear’s rebound dampening, this allows the rear wheel to get back on the ground faster and increase traction.

The front MX486 is pretty much toast after 2000kms.Sounds like similiar damage to the Metzeler MCE 6-Days I'm running; lots of broken side knobs. Definitely not designed for big bikes, shame really. The ED-661 hasn't suffered like this.

cooneyr
23rd November 2008, 21:02
Does this help?....

Hmm not sure. The bike is the best I've had for driving over washboard. It gets good traction and will accelerate really well unless they are very large (couple of very nasty sections on Jacks pass at the moment). My first lock up and off on Sat was coming from gravel to seal. I locked up on the smooth and loose gravel and it remained locked up on the seal. Second serious lock up and crash was on wet wooden bridge. All other lockups were on gravel but I managed to control those ones with only a little :shit: before cornering.

The other thing about Tenzing is that the brake pedal is closer to the peg than normal and higher than the peg when adjusted down as far as possible. With stiff boots this makes it hard to feel what is going on. Rear pads aren't far of replacing so going for some organics and I'll cut and well the pedal around bit in the hope of getting a bit more progressive braking.

The preload comment is because there is almost no static sag. I've left it alone so far just to give the shock a chance to settle but it is time to do something now.

:Offtopic:

Cheers R

howiezowie
24th November 2008, 13:40
has anyone used the Mitas EO-8 ?
I'm thinking of using on 650 Vstrom - mainly road in place of (unavailable) Anakee.
Thoughts please.

JATZ
24th November 2008, 15:43
has anyone used the Mitas EO-8 ?
I'm thinking of using on 650 Vstrom - mainly road in place of (unavailable) Anakee.
Thoughts please.

Yup.:yes:

Seems o.k. to me.done just over 2000k and it's hardly worn

Padmei
24th November 2008, 19:28
I think I'll get one after the MT21 wears out (in about a week :baby:) Find it ok on gravel & maunga type rocks Jatz?

JATZ
24th November 2008, 19:35
I think I'll get one after the MT21 wears out (in about a week :baby:) Find it ok on gravel & maunga type rocks Jatz?

What size is your rear (tyre), the E-08's sitting in the shed at the moment.
Yer mor 'n welcome to take it for a burn and see what you think.
It's o.k. on gravel and I did the Maunga twice with it with no problems, course it might've been different in the wet

topo
25th November 2008, 18:35
Anyone had any experience with mounting front EO7's "backwards"? I've just fitted a new front with the chevron pattern facing forward (sidewall says it should face to the rear), anyone else mounted them this way?

Transalper
25th November 2008, 19:11
Not personally but have heard several people down here run their front E07s like that and reckon it gives better tracking in gravel.
There must be a down side to it all though since they do have a direction arrow I assume related to their construction.
Question; What suffers when a front tyre goes on backwards? Sealed road cornering or hard braking performance, tyre life? I wonder.

Padmei
25th November 2008, 19:50
What size is your rear (tyre), the E-08's sitting in the shed at the moment.
Yer mor 'n welcome to take it for a burn and see what you think.
It's o.k. on gravel and I did the Maunga twice with it with no problems, course it might've been different in the wet

How come you aren't wearing them at the mo? Saving them for the big dance?

NordieBoy
25th November 2008, 19:59
What suffers when a front tyre goes on backwards? Sealed road cornering or hard braking performance, tyre life? I wonder.

Braking traction?

Some of the directional mtb tyres have arrows going one way for front and the other way if used on the rear.

NordieBoy
25th November 2008, 20:02
Anyone had any experience with mounting front EO7's "backwards"? I've just fitted a new front with the chevron pattern facing forward (sidewall says it should face to the rear), anyone else mounted them this way?

I think it'd preform better the right way and look better backwards.

Take your pick :D

NordieBoy
25th November 2008, 20:02
How come you aren't wearing them at the mo? Saving them for the big dance?

They're road tyres.
You want cleats on for dancing.

Ally67
25th November 2008, 20:15
How come you aren't wearing them at the mo? Saving them for the big dance?

Nah, I think I was doing sumfin else and thought I'd change them just for something to do.
Bike looks much beterer with a big knobly on the back anyway.it is all about looks you know.
If I was going on a longish road trip I'd put them back on, Trackmaster sounds like a swarm of bees on the seal

topo
25th November 2008, 20:30
Certainly looks better "backwards":rolleyes:, find out tomorrow if they can handle the jandle.:yeah:

warewolf
25th November 2008, 21:41
There must be a down side to it all though since they do have a direction arrow I assume related to their construction.
Question; What suffers when a front tyre goes on backwards? Sealed road cornering or hard braking performance, tyre life? I wonder.My recollection, which could just be an urban myth, is that it is related to the construction. Way back when, high-speed race tyres were coming apart seemingly at random. They discovered eventually that the ones that failed had the carcass joins facing one particular way, so now they are made aligned in one direction with the carcass so stamped. Lower speed tyres don't get so stressed, so often aren't constructed that way or marked, eg off-road tyres.

Alternatively, I could understand that directional tread patterns might only be tested for the load/speed ratings while facing the way the manufacturer intended, so are thus marked. This because either the manufacturer doesn't want to pay for the tyre to be tested both ways, or the tyre fails when reversed.

Years ago -err, late eighties- my mtb had a simple chevron-like tread pattern on the tyres. They were supposed to face different ways, front vs rear, to act like a scoop for front braking or rear drive. I experimented with reversing them; IIRC the front hung on a bit better until you touched the brakes, at which point things got seriously alarming with the point-leading chevron cutting a swathe through the track surface.

So the obvious warning applies: if you do reverse a directional-tread tyre, be on the lookout for atypical behaviour.

warewolf
25th November 2008, 22:00
Certainly looks better "backwards":rolleyes:This is closer to the truth than you may realise. Tread patterns are a sales 'point of difference' and are designed to appeal to the eye as much as improve grip (more so for street tyres than off-road). Tyres like the Metzeler ME33 Laser's (now Lasertec) simple herringbone pattern work very, very well in the wet. But they aren't very sexy and certainly don't look new! and improved! so most manufacturers dick about constantly with pretty designs. In fact Metzeler have changed the name, carcass and compound, but not the tread:
<table><tbody><tr><td>
http://www.metzelermoto.com/en_IT/browser/attachments/images/Catalogue/SportTouring/Lasertec_173X236.jpg
</td><td>

LASERTEC
The newest materials and compound technology applied to a classic tread pattern design for enhanced performance out of your bike

New compound with high Silica developed for outstanding grip both in dry and in wet enhancing riding performance
"Sport Touring" carcass design with lighter, more resistant Polyester fibre giving higher comfort and improving handling
"Classic" tread pattern design ensuring effective water dispersal for safe wet riding and wear regularity with long-lasting mileage

</td></tr></tbody></table>

Mystic13
27th November 2008, 09:49
This thread is on the too long side for finding info and I guess it's always subjective.

Which tyres do you recommend based on my bike, experience etc

I bought a dr250 to see if I'd like adventure riding, did two days of gravel riding and one of them was 8 hours followed immediately by the 42nd traverse. On gravel I was always lagging the bigger adventure bikes I was with which ranged from 650-1000. On the 42nd I was quicker and didn't drop the thing.

At the end of the 42nd I decided this is me and sold the 250 and bought 400.
The 250 had knobblies and i don't know what.

The DRZ doesn't have road legal knobblies right now. It has rim locks and riding from Hamilton to Auck's I thought I would lose several fillings.

- I intend to go back to the 42nd and spend the day or two riding all the off side tracks
- I've found some guys who ride farms, beach etc and will join them as well
- I want to ride there even if it's the other end of the island, then ride off road and ride back (yes the seat has to be dealt with)
- I don't get the back out on gravel in corners (intentionally - yet).
- I have no problems with the bike sliding around under braking
- what tyres do you recommend?

I found I have a D605 front in the garage (it came with the dr250 as a spare). it's a much more road orientated tread than I had.

I was about to through a set of MT21's on till I read the thread. Now the T63's look like an option.

I'm not so worried about wear and price and more concerned with grip while I'm learning. So wet road grip is important.

Cheers.

Rosie
5th December 2008, 10:18
A question for the resident tyre experts:

My current TW301/2 setup works well on seal and gravel roads, but occasionally I need a bit more grip for riding on trails etc. So I'm thinking about a second set of tyres to be used for more technical riding.

The sherp is no trailer queen, so whatever I got would need to be able to do 30-40 min stretches on the seal to get to trails. Clint thinks that any cheap knobbly would be fine, but I'm suspicious of taking non-DOT approved tyres on the road.

So, I need either;
a) suggestions of an inexpensive, road legal, agressive knobbly tyre
or
b) to be told to stop being a blouse and just get some proper knobblies, since I wouldn't be taking them on the road much.

Oscar
5th December 2008, 10:46
A question for the resident tyre experts:

My current TW301/2 setup works well on seal and gravel roads, but occasionally I need a bit more grip for riding on trails etc. So I'm thinking about a second set of tyres to be used for more technical riding.

The sherp is no trailer queen, so whatever I got would need to be able to do 30-40 min stretches on the seal to get to trails. Clint thinks that any cheap knobbly would be fine, but I'm suspicious of taking non-DOT approved tyres on the road.

So, I need either;
a) suggestions of an inexpensive, road legal, agressive knobbly tyre
or
b) to be told to stop being a blouse and just get some proper knobblies, since I wouldn't be taking them on the road much.

Depends on yer definition of cheap.
I've using road legal pirelli scorpions on my 640, at about $100 each.

Bass
5th December 2008, 11:50
I found I have a D605 front in the garage (it came with the dr250 as a spare). it's a much more road orientated tread than I had.

Cheers.

Doing my big Oz thing earlier this year, I dropped a duet of D 605's on the DR in Darwin. (Jeez, after that, I feel a limerick coming on)
The rear one wore out in no time at all, but performed pretty well on seal, gravel and medium sand until it did so.

The front one is still on the bike. I'm not qualified to comment on its performance in mud or deep loose stuff, but I have been very pleasantly surprised at how planted it is in the gravel. I think the next one will be same again.

MXNUT
5th December 2008, 11:57
A question for the resident tyre experts:

My current TW301/2 setup works well on seal and gravel roads, but occasionally I need a bit more grip for riding on trails etc. So I'm thinking about a second set of tyres to be used for more technical riding.

The sherp is no trailer queen, so whatever I got would need to be able to do 30-40 min stretches on the seal to get to trails. Clint thinks that any cheap knobbly would be fine, but I'm suspicious of taking non-DOT approved tyres on the road.

So, I need either;
a) suggestions of an inexpensive, road legal, agressive knobbly tyre
or
b) to be told to stop being a blouse and just get some proper knobblies, since I wouldn't be taking them on the road much.

KENDA K760 TRACKMASTER from Cycletreads in Auckland for around $65 - $70
are a very aggressive tyre and are dot legal.

warewolf
5th December 2008, 13:13
So, I need either;
a) suggestions of an inexpensive, road legal, agressive knobbly tyre
or
b) to be told to stop being a blouse and just get some proper knobblies, since I wouldn't be taking them on the road much.I would think that mx knobblies would be overkill, especially with indicators and mirrors on-road, on a sherpa, and not necessarily cheaper. Cheap asian or eastern euro DOT-knobblies would be a good bet. DOT-knobblies tend to last longer at the expense of extreme traction, so the value is the same as a cheaper non-DOT.

Kenda Trakmaster, BF Goodrich Crossengo, IRC Battle Rally, Vee Rubber something?

Rosie
5th December 2008, 13:26
I would think that mx knobblies would be overkill, especially with indicators and mirrors on-road, on a sherpa, and not necessarily cheaper.

Apparently the idea was to find some pre-loved mx tyres in a skip somewhere, rather than buying new ones. <_<

The various tyres suggested look like the sort of thing I'm after. I will check on price/availability on Monday. :D

Motu
5th December 2008, 17:36
The K760 Trackmaster is pretty aggressive for road use,but not too dangerous if you take care.But I found the non DOT Cheng Shin C755 gave better on and off road performance.....but wore a bit faster.

warewolf
5th December 2008, 18:54
Apparently the idea was to find some pre-loved mx tyres in a skip somewhere, rather than buying new ones. <_<There is some merit in that... try to find a skip used by an enduro/cross-country rider using DOT-knobblies!! :D

NordieBoy
5th December 2008, 19:39
There is some merit in that... try to find a skip used by an enduro/cross-country rider using DOT-knobblies!! :D

And push Warewolf out of the way as you're going for them :D

shards
8th December 2008, 11:57
Has anyone any experience/comments about the SAVA tyres for sale on TradeMe?

pete376403
11th December 2008, 20:42
tried an IRC "trail winner" GP110 on the back of the KLR last weekend. Brand new on Friday, home on Sunday and it's completely shagged 1800 kms later. Mostly fast road work apart from about 160km gravel (the Motu and some other Gisborne area roads)
I found it really good on the road, didn't slide at all and got the bike over far enough to scrape the pegs a couple of times), running about 30 pounds pressure. Lots of wheelspin coming out of corners on the gravel, even without trying.
The missus is going to give me grief about my rides costing $50/day for tyres.

The Vee Rubber thing on the front was great, no problem pushing the front or slipping under heavy braking on the sealed roads, and pretty predictable on the gravel

NordieBoy
11th December 2008, 21:32
I felt the GP110 was a bit too hard compound. It didn't have a good feel on rocks and broke loose too easily.

tri boy
12th December 2008, 19:01
Gunna slip a pair of Pirreli Scorpian ST'on fatty for some holidays seal work.
(kanny's Bandit is rolling, and the Daytona, while sweet, is a bit of a back acher now, so the scramblers on "couples" duty.
Let ya know how they go, if I stray on to some gravel. Thinking about a sth island jaunt in Feb/Mar with kanny, and these might fit the bill.

talbertnz
12th December 2008, 22:40
Has anyone any experience/comments about the SAVA tyres for sale on TradeMe?

I asked the same question on here a wee while a go with no reply :)
havent been able to find any info on them at all.
do know lotsa scooter peoples use savas

NordieBoy
13th December 2008, 07:47
Those Sava's look quite expensive...

CrazyFrog
13th December 2008, 08:18
Tried an IRC "trail winner" GP110 on the back of the KLR last weekend. Brand new on Friday, home on Sunday and it's completely shagged 1800 kms later. Mostly fast road work apart from about 160km gravel

Warm weeknd was it? The warmer road temps will destroy an adventure tyre pretty quickly, as well as a bit of hard throttle action.
My MT21 has only lasted 3000km's in springtime on the KTM and is pretty much rooted, only good for seal use or a sneaky burnout somewhere:laugh:

I think those Sava tyres are made by Pirelli, and are supposed to be pretty good for road use, dunno about dirt/adventure riding. Feel free to buy them and tell us.

pete376403
13th December 2008, 21:11
Last weekend (5-6-7th) so yeah, the weather was good and hot. Also the GP110 is only S rated (180k max) so it was approaching 80% of its rated speed a lot of the time (if that counts for anything)

In the tyres favour, it stuck well on the seal and never caused me worry.

Peril
27th December 2008, 08:47
Gave my new Mitas C-02 a run yesterday at the south side of the Waimak.Feels a bit odd on the road so took it easy on the way there.
Get it on shingle and the name Stoneking really makes you wonder if it's an april fools joke...The tyre wanders/moves quite a bit,not enough to feel unsafe but it makes you think you've got a flat tyre.In the mud that was around due to the river being high,the tyre really gripped well,same too with wet sand a bit further up in the forest.
I was running 30psi the whole time and was majorly impressed with the huge level of grip it gave and I don't really think I'd gain much by dropping the pressure much as it had no trouble hooking up at all.After around 70km/s of riding,including to and from the area,it only had a tiny amount of wear on the middle knob,so was impressed with that too as I was trying my hardest to spin it up anywhere I could.
So it gets :2thumbsup from me.

NordieBoy
27th December 2008, 11:01
Gave my new Mitas C-02 a run yesterday at the south side of the Waimak.Feels a bit odd on the road so took it easy on the way there.
Get it on shingle and the name Stoneking really makes you wonder if it's an april fools joke...The tyre wanders/moves quite a bit,not enough to feel unsafe but it makes you think you've got a flat tyre.In the mud that was around due to the river being high,the tyre really gripped well,same too with wet sand a bit further up in the forest.
I was running 30psi the whole time and was majorly impressed with the huge level of grip it gave and I don't really think I'd gain much by dropping the pressure much as it had no trouble hooking up at all.

Drop to 25psi and see if it has the gravel wanders still.
At the higher pressures my MT21 felt like it was being bounced off stones rather than rolling over them.

Peril
27th December 2008, 11:25
Drop to 25psi and see if it has the gravel wanders still.
At the higher pressures my MT21 felt like it was being bounced off stones rather than rolling over them.

I think the major issue is the tread blocks are very tall,a good 18-20mm tall.
Might try different pressure on DB1K,but for that kind of riding I don't think it'll be as vital.

NordieBoy
27th December 2008, 12:50
I think the major issue is the tread blocks are very tall,a good 18-20mm tall.
Might try different pressure on DB1K,but for that kind of riding I don't think it'll be as vital.

I found with the MT21 and 30psi that it would be bouncing off rocks like it was allergic to them. The back was all over the place. Once down to 20psi it rolled over them better and was a totally different tyre.

mazz1972
11th January 2009, 21:02
Have been reading through this thread but it's pretty long...!

I need some new rubber for my KLE500 - sizes are 130/80 17 and 90/90 21.

We are doing Molesworth and Rainbow next month and I'm looking for tyres to help me out in the gravel since I'm pretty crap at gravel and this is going to be a big ask for me. So I need tyres that will give me all the help I can get!

I've noted that many people recommend the Mitas E07's but was a bit alarmed when a few mentioned about square-ish profile and how this felt in cornering - depending on rim size - I've no idea what mine are!

Can anyone help with suggestions for tyres in those sizes? I haven't found too many options so far.

Price is a bit of an issue as we need to order three sets of tyres this month and the money tree is feeling pretty violated at the moment.

Any recomendations would be greatly appreciated, thanks!

NordieBoy
11th January 2009, 21:23
For good general purpose and value for money I'd go Pirelli MT21 on the front and a 130 width Shinko SR244 on the back.
In 8000 odd km when the back is shot then go to a Mitas E07 in a 130 width on the rear.

mazz1972
15th January 2009, 11:23
Thanks Nordie. I've ordered Shinko R244's for both front & rear. Hopefully do the trick!

Crisis management
15th January 2009, 11:55
Thanks Nordie. I've ordered Shinko R244's for both front & rear. Hopefully do the trick!

Change the order...put a very good tyre on the front MT21 (as Nordie suggested) or Continental TKC. You must have front end control, the rear doesn't matter.

Seriously, put the MT21 on the front.


Got the message??

NordieBoy
15th January 2009, 15:31
Thanks Nordie. I've ordered Shinko R244's for both front & rear. Hopefully do the trick!


Change the order...put a very good tyre on the front MT21 (as Nordie suggested) or Continental TKC. You must have front end control, the rear doesn't matter.

The 244 on the front is ok but the mt21 is much better

timg
15th January 2009, 18:20
As Rossi said "Put something you love on the front, and something round and black on the back" :msn-wink:

Crisis management
16th January 2009, 07:06
The 244 on the front is ok but the mt21 is much better

Hence my post.....

NordieBoy
16th January 2009, 07:17
Hence my post.....

Hence my quote of your most excellent post....

:2thumbsup

_Shrek_
16th January 2009, 22:54
Thanks Nordie. I've ordered Shinko R244's for both front & rear. Hopefully do the trick!

If you're going to do metal on a regular basis then I would suggest for your next set the TKC80 on the front & the Mitas Eo7 on the rear as this combo will serve you well on both tar & metal

clint640
19th January 2009, 14:46
If you're going to do metal on a regular basis then I would suggest for your next set the TKC80 on the front & the Mitas Eo7 on the rear as this combo will serve you well on both tar & metal

Yep, I'm definitely liking that combo in 21" Front / 18" Rear on the 640.

Cheers
Clint

mazz1972
20th January 2009, 11:15
The Shinko's are on and from the looks of it I'm ready to do Mt Everest - could say they are slightly WAY more chunky than the photo eluded to!

They weren't my first choice but some of my other selections weren't available.

Despite having a dual purpose bike I'm not particularly adventurous when it comes to riding off tarmac (and not very good at it either!) so the Shinkos will probably come off after that trip and the rear Metzeler Tourance back on and look for a new front since it was stuffed anyway.

Thanks for your comments everyone :wari:

NordieBoy
20th January 2009, 15:38
Keep the Shinko's aired up to 30f/34r psi and they'll govery well on the road.
I got 8000km out of my rear and 20,500km out of the front.

mazz1972
20th January 2009, 20:19
Keep the Shinko's aired up to 30f/34r psi and they'll govery well on the road.
I got 8000km out of my rear and 20,500km out of the front.

What pressure would you recommend offroad?

Wow some some great mileage!!

NordieBoy
20th January 2009, 20:58
What pressure would you recommend offroad?

Wow some some great mileage!!

I ride like a nana.

Gravel roads - 22f/26-30r.
Off road - 20f/22-24r.

The higher rear pressure if you're carrying luggage.

You'll soon find pressures you like.
If the rear is skipping around off rocks or sliding far too easily then it's probably running too high pressure.

I found the 244 rear at 35 psi had better gravel grip than the Pirelli MT21 at 24psi.

As I've said the 244 front was OK but the MT21 is brilliant however I prefer the 244 rear over the MT21 any day of the week :D

Padmei
21st January 2009, 06:36
I fitted a new Mitas E09 to gonzo last nite.

Isn't the sight of a fresh new tyre & shiny rim beautiful:love:

Here's hoping I get better mileage than the MT21.

talbertnz
21st January 2009, 07:13
How much are they for a set??
Let us know how you find them on the road esp hard cornering.

warewolf
21st January 2009, 08:54
I used a tyre machine to fit my T63,and it was a tough fit.Definatly the stiffest carcase I've ever seen.Maybe it had sat under a roof in summer and hardened up.You might be spot on there. I've just re-fitted a half-used T63 rear, which has been stored correctly in a cool, dark place, and it seems to have gone stiff. Lifting the bead to insert the tube, and getting my hands in to insert the valve stem both were very difficult. Doable, but I can see why you'd rate the carcass as stiff. It doesn't seem to stop the tyre flexing as it would in use though.

And as follow-up on the BF Goodrich Crossengo I had been 'finishing up' on the 640A. The tyre developed a couple of 10-15mm splits in the outer casing on the tread surface (ie not sidewall). One of these was rough on the inside and rubbed through the tube. It's an ex-cross-country race tyre so it's had a hard life, still got maybe 50% tread depth remaining, but it's had it. Was good while it lasted, even in the worn state I used it on the 640A. It used about 1/3 tread depth in 800km.

Padmei
21st January 2009, 15:58
How much are they for a set??
Let us know how you find them on the road esp hard cornering.

I only put 1 on the rear as the MT21 on the front is excellent & holding up well. The rear cost $140 + $16 freiht to Nelson thru LMS imports.

As far as a report on them I think there re other more experienced riders on here that could do a better comparison.

XF650
21st January 2009, 18:13
How much are they for a set??
Let us know how you find them on the road esp hard cornering.

Pic link shows scuffing of side knobs of 19" EO9, on Freewind front after a good blat through the Catlins Highway. 17" EO9 rear side knobs were the same. Great gravel tyres too.
I'm amazed at the lean angles I can achieve with these tyres, hard cornering on dry seal. Haven't been game to push them like that in the wet though!!

http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=106088&d=1222085716

timg
21st January 2009, 21:45
Pic link shows scuffing of side knobs of 19" EO9, on Freewind front after a good blat through the Catlins Highway. 17" EO9 rear side knobs were the same. Great gravel tyres too.
I'm amazed at the lean angles I can achieve with these tyres, hard cornering on dry seal. Haven't been game to push them like that in the wet though!!

http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=106088&d=1222085716 Skite :D :scooter:

iceclimber
26th January 2009, 12:31
For good general purpose and value for money I'd go Pirelli MT21 on the front and a 130 width Shinko SR244 on the back.
In 8000 odd km when the back is shot then go to a Mitas E07 in a 130 width on the rear.

Hi Nordie, ( and to all you other knowledgable guys on tyres )

I need some help with tyre choice for my 2005 1200GS. I am still new to NZ, have lived in Welly for 8 months & I do approx 90% road & 10% gravel.
Currently I have a worn set of road tyres (Pirelli MT90's) but I would like to fit better tyres for the gravel, but would still like to travel quick on the road.

I have found all the posts re: the need for the front to be the more chunkier of the two for directional stability on gravel and the need for the rear to be less so for traction on the tarmac. But all comments seam to relate to lighter bikes, more off-road style bikes.
So for the 1200GS, it seams that I need to put a TCK80 on the front and then either of the following on the rear ...... MetasE07, Pirelli MT70, ShinkoR244. I'm pretty sure on the choice for the front But i'v no idea for the rear tyre. :wacko:

Price is important to me ....... km's not quite so important.

look forward to your suggestions.

thanks, Steve

cooneyr
26th January 2009, 15:21
....So for the 1200GS, it seams that I need to put a TCK80 on the front and then either of the following on the rear ...... MetasE07, Pirelli MT70, ShinkoR244. ....

Those options seem like a pretty good starting point to me. I'd personally go for the TKC and Mitas E07 given the type of riding you do.

Cheers R

clint640
27th January 2009, 10:41
Those options seem like a pretty good starting point to me. I'd personally go for the TKC and Mitas E07 given the type of riding you do.

Cheers R

x2, I've run MT70 Pirelli's on the 640 with good results, but the EO7s do everything as well, are cheaper & seem to be lasting lots better. I think an MT70 would disappear pretty quick on the back of a 1200GS.

Cheers
Clint

iceclimber
27th January 2009, 12:13
Many thanks guys for the advice, :niceone: will now look around for decent prices for the TKC & Mitas E07

However, with the BMW i am a bit reluctant to go anywhere ? would prefer somewhere that knows a bit about BM's ? what do you think ?
Steve

cooneyr
27th January 2009, 12:23
Many thanks guys for the advice, :niceone: will now look around for decent prices for the TKC & Mitas E07

However, with the BMW i am a bit reluctant to go anywhere ? would prefer somewhere that knows a bit about BM's ? what do you think ?
Steve

Learn how to change a tyre yourself??? :bleh::msn-wink: Bloody handy to be able to do it out in the wops.

You wont have much choice with suppliers of the Mitas tyres, dealers are few and far between. Only one place here in Chch that sells them. A motormower guy in Palmy North imports them and can be contacted directly - LMS Imports (http://www.lmsimports.co.nz/contact.php). E07 page is here (http://www.lmsimports.co.nz/products.php?cat=2&id=8)

Cheers R

Woodman
31st January 2009, 07:28
oops.

Just realised that I ordered a 140/80/17 E09 for my klr. It was my fault but does anyone know if these are too wide to fit on a killer. It looks close but it is hard to tell until it is fitted up.
Might give it a try this weekend if my shoulder feels better, and if it doesn't fit you will all benefit from my cockup and also there may be a cheapish rear mitas for someone who wants this size.

Woodman
31st January 2009, 20:02
Fitted front and rear e09s today. haven't ridden yet but I must say they are the easiest tyres I have ever fitted, almost like bicycle tyres( slight exagerration).
Will post after ride tomorrow if they are better than the trailwings.

Padmei
1st February 2009, 19:14
Id be interested to hear how the front e09 goes as I went for a good couple of weekends riding around Port Underwood (picton way) to try out the E09 on the back.

Ive got a MT21 on the front which is due to be replaced as the middle medial knobs have been worn to quite a cool pyramid causing a weird vibration when stopping slowly. This is not too good on the gravel though...

I've found the E09 on the back to be a lot better on the big looseish rock stuff on the Maungatapu than the MT21. The MT seemed to throw up lots & rip chunks off. My riding has prob mellowed now though. On normal gravel roads I've found it OK - not good not bad, however on corrugated gravel it sways worse than a drunk sailor at a local dance.

Woodman
1st February 2009, 19:56
Id be interested to hear how the front e09 goes as I went for a good couple of weekends riding around Port Underwood (picton way) to try out the E09 on the back.

Ive got a MT21 on the front which is due to be replaced as the middle medial knobs have been worn to quite a cool pyramid causing a weird vibration when stopping slowly. This is not too good on the gravel though...

I've found the E09 on the back to be a lot better on the big looseish rock stuff on the Maungatapu than the MT21. The MT seemed to throw up lots & rip chunks off. My riding has prob mellowed now though. On normal gravel roads I've found it OK - not good not bad, however on corrugated gravel it sways worse than a drunk sailor at a local dance.

pretty impressed with the e09's really. The rear does move around a bit on gravel and has a tendency to make the rear come out when cornering with a few revs on, mind you it seems controllable and I had a blast today on the road to pelorous with those cambered corners.

The front is ok too but can slip a bit on gravel when lean angles get high, but again not uncontrollably and a few times both wheels had a bit of a skid.:niceone:

So yeah they get my recommendation, but time will tell too.

_Shrek_
2nd February 2009, 17:50
Many thanks guys for the advice, :niceone: will now look around for decent prices for the TKC & Mitas E07

However, with the BMW i am a bit reluctant to go anywhere ? would prefer somewhere that knows a bit about BM's ? what do you think ?
Steve

Hi Ic
the guys at DAS are a great help, I run E07's front & rear mainly because I do both metal & tar & they give me 16k rear 18k front
I have also run the E09's (for the winter) great on the metal helps to keep your speed down on the tar k's not so great but a good tyre

I would sugest if you are on the metal on a regular bassis then the TKC80 front & E07 rear they are good in the wet & dry tar

cheers Shrek

Underground
2nd February 2009, 19:32
Shrek, have you used the Tw 42 on the rear ? Just wondering how it compares to the E 07 which I havent tried .
Im also sold on the TKC front ( 18,000 k also ) , but how the hell do you get 16,000 k out of a rear tyre ? Mine are shot at between 4 and 5,000 k

bart
3rd February 2009, 21:01
Bought a new TKC80 rear today. Thick end of 200 notes, but I believe well worth it. Got about 3000 hard km out of the last one, and honestly couldn't fault it.:woohoo: Seems to do everything real well (except mud, but switch to real nobs for that).

Have to try a front one soon.

_Shrek_
7th February 2009, 18:59
Shrek, have you used the Tw 42 on the rear ? Just wondering how it compares to the E 07 which I havent tried .
Im also sold on the TKC front ( 18,000 k also ) , but how the hell do you get 16,000 k out of a rear tyre ? Mine are shot at between 4 and 5,000 k

only get that out of the E07's, check tyre psi regular & try not to spin it up :laugh:
have not tried the Tw 42

Woodman
7th February 2009, 21:35
only get that out of the E07's, check tyre psi regular & try not to spin it up :laugh:
have not tried the Tw 42

How do you not spin it up????

Transalper
8th February 2009, 01:46
:laugh: that's a rhetorical question right?
Just in case it's not... It's all about control. Self control, throttle control and clutch control.

Woodman
8th February 2009, 07:39
:laugh: that's a rhetorical question right?
Just in case it's not... It's all about control. Self control, throttle control and clutch control.

Yea it was, but sometimes you hust gotta. I very rarely get more than 3k out of a rear tyre, but have never really kept an accurate accurate record. Think I will this time for curiosities sake. there are too many variables to really give someone an accurate answer on which tyre lasts how long etc etc.

NordieBoy
8th February 2009, 17:08
Yea it was, but sometimes you hust gotta. I very rarely get more than 3k out of a rear tyre, but have never really kept an accurate accurate record. Think I will this time for curiosities sake. there are too many variables to really give someone an accurate answer on which tyre lasts how long etc etc.

Simple. If it's your tyre it's not going to last long.

If I don't get 8,000km out of a $100 tyre I feel ripped off.

Padmei
8th February 2009, 19:10
:laugh: that's a rhetorical question right?
Just in case it's not... It's all about control. Self control, throttle control and clutch control.

Ah nup.... control is overrated

Woodman
8th February 2009, 19:36
Hey Padmei,

How are you getting along with your new e09 ?

topo
8th February 2009, 20:23
Hi all, does anyone know where you can get Maxxis tires from in NZ?

Just had a look at their website and there's a couple of interesting D/S options:yes:.

_Shrek_
8th February 2009, 20:26
How do you not spin it up????

when I got my 650Gs it was hard not to as I lived at the end of a 23km road which went over three sets of hills climbing from 240m to 650m above sea level in that 23k's & the fact that I was doing 1200k's a week tyres were not lasting very long :whistle: the 1150Gs was getting the same k's until I put on E09's :drool: well that was another story you just had to go fast & you couldn't help but spin it on the metal with those babys, the down side was that I only got 3500 K's out of the rear

I thought that I had got 13500k's, until I found the speedo reading :laugh:

have gone back to E07's & will on my next bike as well :msn-wink:

Woodman
8th February 2009, 21:12
when I got my 650Gs it was hard not to as I lived at the end of a 23km road which went over three sets of hills climbing from 240m to 650m above sea level in that 23k's & the fact that I was doing 1200k's a week tyres were not lasting very long :whistle: the 1150Gs was getting the same k's until I put on E09's :drool: well that was another story you just had to go fast & you couldn't help but spin it on the metal with those babys, the down side was that I only got 3500 K's out of the rear

I thought that I had got 13500k's, until I found the speedo reading :laugh:

have gone back to E07's & will on my next bike as well :msn-wink:

So its just not me then.
There is some magic ingredient in e09's that makes you want to hang the tail out everywhere.

But seriously what I have found is that straight line grip is good, but when it comes to gravel corners they do spin up and slide, not like a roadish tyre cos the forward drive is still there. And they are good on dry tar too. I will get another one, probly quite soon by the looks of things.

NordieBoy
8th February 2009, 21:31
Hi all, does anyone know where you can get Maxxis tires from in NZ?

Just had a look at their website and there's a couple of interesting D/S options:yes:.

Anyone that does Cheng Shins should be able to do Maxxis.

bart
13th February 2009, 22:06
Changed my Conti TKC80 rear this afternoon. I was absolutly shocked once I read the fine print on the side of the tyre. The old tyre, which I fitted exactly a year ago, had made in Germany written on it. The same tyre, bought a few days ago, says made in Korea.:crazy:

WTF!!!

Woodman
14th February 2009, 07:52
Changed my Conti TKC80 rear this afternoon. I was absolutly shocked once I read the fine print on the side of the tyre. The old tyre, which I fitted exactly a year ago, had made in Germany written on it. The same tyre, bought a few days ago, says made in Korea.:crazy:

WTF!!!

Obviously the germans have outsourced their manufacturing.
You can be rest assured that it will be exactly the same quality as the German made one. They have very strict quality control procedures to ensure that the product is not compromised.

Who believes this?????

jafar
20th February 2009, 11:07
Obviously the germans have outsourced their manufacturing.
You can be rest assured that it will be exactly the same quality as the German made one. They have very strict quality control procedures to ensure that the product is not compromised.

Who believes this?????

Obviously you do :clap:

MXNUT
20th February 2009, 11:26
Obviously the germans have outsourced their manufacturing.
You can be rest assured that it will be exactly the same quality as the German made one. They have very strict quality control procedures to ensure that the product is not compromised.

Who believes this?????


NOT ME:argue: :argue: :argue:

topo
2nd March 2009, 20:24
Anyone tried these?

http://www.irc-tire.com/mce/tires/dual/tr-8/main_01.jpg

IRC TR-8
* DOT approved for street use, plus an aggressive designed tread for off-road action.
* TR-8's have an excellent cost performance advantage.
* Great tires for beginners and intermediate riders.

NordieBoy
2nd March 2009, 20:59
I like the look of the front...

pete376403
2nd March 2009, 21:08
They look interesting. Whose selling them and how much?

warewolf
2nd March 2009, 21:15
I'm running a TR8 on the front of the 640A right now. Much more open tread than a TKC80. IIRC someone tried to get one and was told they aren't being brought in to NZ anymore. Price-wise, I'd expect them to be less than half the price of a TKC80.

edit: Seek and ye shall find: post #141 (http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php?p=1138118&highlight=irc#post1138118) and subsequent discussion.

Woodman
2nd March 2009, 21:23
They look like they have got a good amount of side grip, unlike Mitas

Padmei
3rd March 2009, 06:33
Anyone got them recently? Price? locality?

cynna
8th March 2009, 23:24
going to have to replace my rear sooner then i expected thanks to my run if with a loose tool (http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php?p=1969756#post1969756)

at the moment i have a dunlop d606 - havent had any issues with it so will probably replace it with the same. will have alook through this thread to have a look at your opinions and other options

where is the best place to go in chch for off road tyres - anyone know if DAS has a good range of tyres or am i best to go to pitlane? will have a ring around and see whats available tomorrow

cooneyr
9th March 2009, 14:36
going to have to replace my rear sooner then i expected thanks to my run if with a loose tool (http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php?p=1969756#post1969756)

at the moment i have a dunlop d606 - havent had any issues with it so will probably replace it with the same. will have alook through this thread to have a look at your opinions and other options

where is the best place to go in chch for off road tyres - anyone know if DAS has a good range of tyres or am i best to go to pitlane? will have a ring around and see whats available tomorrow

I use to run D606's on the DR650 and really liked them. They didn't last very long unless you keep the pressures high. The recomended pressures for the DR were 20/22ish and the 606 rear would only last about 2000kms at that pressure. At 30ish the rear would last about 5/6000kms.

DAS do Mitas tyres of which the E-09 is most similar to the D606 in tread pattern. The E-09 aparently lasts a bit longer and has good grip on the seal but grip when leaned over and under power is not as good. I'm about 2500kms into my first one on the XTZ750 and it seems to be last well but I'm not as agressive on the XTZ as I was on the DR so not really compariable. A key reason why I'm using the E09 now as it is the only 17" knobblie that I can find in 140 wide (Mitchy Desert is another but they seem to be impossible to find and the only 1 I've had didn't last well). I know you are using an 18" and the E09 is available in this as well.

Another option is the Mitas C-02 that is more agressive. Popular for the Brass Monkey run last year. Again DAS has these.

Cheers R

Peril
9th March 2009, 16:03
Another vote for the C-02.They are magic offroad,grip everywhere - mud,gravel,sand,dirt,brilliant tyre.
Very offroad bias though and quite squirmy on the road,but if you have a spare rear rim you throw on for offroad work,that is the tyre.
Seems the biggest it comes in is a 120/90-18,but with 25mm knobs it'll make the bike slightly higher geared.
Wear doesn't seem too bad either,I'd estimate I've done 500kms so far and I reckon I've only taken the ribs off the end of the knobs and not much else.

pete376403
9th March 2009, 21:30
. A key reason why I'm using the E09 now as it is the only 17" knobblie that I can find in 140 wide Cheers R

If "Not For Highway Use" doesn't bother you:
http://www.biketreadz.co.nz/index.php?T=Dirt&F=Rear&R=17
Deestone works pretty well and is a bargain. Not as bad as you might expect on the road, either

cooneyr
10th March 2009, 07:04
If "Not For Highway Use" doesn't bother you:
http://www.biketreadz.co.nz/index.php?T=Dirt&F=Rear&R=17
Deestone works pretty well and is a bargain. Not as bad as you might expect on the road, either

Sorry which tyre were you pointing me at, a Deestone D982? 4.6 is about 120 wide from memory so I'd need about a 5.5/5.6 in the old measurement. Never seen anything with this sort of measurement.

Cheers R

warewolf
10th March 2009, 10:52
4.6 is about 120 wide from memory so I'd need about a 5.5/5.6 in the old measurement. Never seen anything with this sort of measurement.Yep, 4.60 is way too small, many tyres are only made up to this size. 5.10 is about the largest you will see, equivalent to a 130/80, and only a few tyres are this big. I've seen 5.60 listed on sizing charts but only on 1 or 2 actual tyres in a catalogue; it is equivalent to a 140/80. Bummer, eh?

Most of the cheaper Asian tyres are only made in the small-middling sizes, because to them 250cc is a big bike!! You have to get into the Euro or US manufacturers to get much choice in the 140s - specially for road legal tyres.

Don't forget a 120/100 is also equivalent to a 140/80.

Woodman
10th March 2009, 19:51
My Mitas e09 will be lucky to get to 3k , padmei didn't you put one on about the same time? How is yours wearing?

_Shrek_
10th March 2009, 20:19
IRC TR-8 <img

src=http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o20/warewolf885/mc/bikes/ktm/lc4/TR8-TKC80.jpg>

ww how do you think they would go on the 1150Gs?

cheers Shrek

topo
10th March 2009, 20:27
my current E-09 has done around 1500km and i'd be supprised if it'd last another 1000 at the rate i'm going.
I still rate the mitas in terms of wear rates as the conti tkc i had previously only lasted 2000km, must add that both rears suffered some severe abuse:innocent: and would probably last a minimum of 5000km on the 640 if treated nicely.

Woodman
10th March 2009, 20:29
my current E-09 has done around 1500km and i'd be supprised if it'd last another 1000 at the rate i'm going.
I still rate the mitas in terms of wear rates as the conti tkc i had previously only lasted 2000km, must add that both rears suffered some severe abuse:innocent: and would probably last a minimum of 5000km on the 640 if treated nicely.

Thats comforting to know, and it is a good comparison as we have similar power to weight ratios too.:crybaby:

Paladin
10th March 2009, 20:39
my current E-09 has done around 1500km and i'd be supprised if it'd last another 1000 at the rate i'm going.
I still rate the mitas in terms of wear rates as the conti tkc i had previously only lasted 2000km, must add that both rears suffered some severe abuse:innocent: and would probably last a minimum of 5000km on the 640 if treated nicely.

Geez "severe abuse" must be an understatement! :clap:

topo
10th March 2009, 20:50
the voices told me to:yeah::weird::devil2:

Paladin
10th March 2009, 20:55
the voices told me to:yeah::weird::devil2:

Oh I SO know what you mean! That's exactly why I can't own a big fast road bike - I would just have to know how fast it would go! :bye:

warewolf
11th March 2009, 10:01
ww how do you think they would go on the 1150Gs?They'd suck, because they aren't available in the right sizes/style. :whistle:

warewolf
11th March 2009, 10:30
I still rate the mitas in terms of wear rates as the conti tkc i had previously only lasted 2000km, must add that both rears suffered some severe abuse:innocent: and would probably last a minimum of 5000km on the 640 if treated nicely.Seriously doubt the TKC will go that far. 4000km for a TKC on mine, ridden as it should be but without being abused. By far the most $/km of all the tyres I've tried at 40% more expensive (per km) than the MT21.

The T63 is looking like it will price out the same as the MT21, but this one has had a comparatively hard life. Almost no touring on it, it's all been fairly solid adventure work. It's not particularly good at big lean angles on the tar, probably worse than the MT21; looks like it has less rubber at that contact angle.

Kevnz
13th March 2009, 19:25
Looking to put some Mitas E08s on my DR650 over winter as I will be commuting/road use only. Standard tyre is 120/90-17. I can get a 130/80-17 or 140/80-17 in the Mitas. Will the 140 fit and any benefit over the 130 ? Thanks for any advise.

NordieBoy
13th March 2009, 21:40
Looking to put some Mitas E08s on my DR650 over winter as I will be commuting/road use only. Standard tyre is 120/90-17. I can get a 130/80-17 or 140/80-17 in the Mitas. Will the 140 fit and any benefit over the 130 ? Thanks for any advise.

It'll fit but no advantage. Go the 130.

Paladin
13th March 2009, 22:24
It'll fit but no advantage. Go the 130.

Why go 130 over 140?

NordieBoy
14th March 2009, 07:13
Why go 130 over 140?

Trying to keep the width ratios as close to stock as possible.
With a wider rear it takes longer to turn/lean whereas the front is still the same.
So the rear becomes a slower cornering tyre compared to the front and the bike starts to feel weird.

Of course some tyres will feel fine in 140 or even 150 section.

Kevnz
14th March 2009, 07:35
Trying to keep the width ratios as close to stock as possible.
With a wider rear it takes longer to turn/lean whereas the front is still the same.
So the rear becomes a slower cornering tyre compared to the front and the bike starts to feel weird.

Of course some tyres will feel fine in 140 or even 150 section.

Thanks for that.I did read somewhere about longer to turn/lean and it makes sense keeping the ratios as close to stock as possible. Must say I'm impressed with how far you can lean down the DR into corners and feel quite confident doing it. I love it as a commuter bike due to the great visability in traffic and amazed at some of the gaps I have squeezed through, its also good to be able to take the back roads when you want to.Cheers guys,will put my order in today.

Paladin
14th March 2009, 08:39
Trying to keep the width ratios as close to stock as possible.
With a wider rear it takes longer to turn/lean whereas the front is still the same.
So the rear becomes a slower cornering tyre compared to the front and the bike starts to feel weird.

Of course some tyres will feel fine in 140 or even 150 section.

Cheers Fran, appreciate the explanation - I've got lots to learn!

warewolf
14th March 2009, 08:51
Why go 130 over 140?As Nordie said. Plus the bigger tyre will raise the rear a little and steepen the fork rake, which puts more weight on the front wheel and sharpens the steering.

The 640 Adventure has a 140/80, whereas the 640 Enduro has a 130/80 on virtually the same bike. Many Adv riders fit the smaller 130 because it makes the bike turn better.

Paladin
14th March 2009, 09:38
As Nordie said. Plus the bigger tyre will raise the rear a little and steepen the fork rake, which puts more weight on the front wheel and sharpens the steering.

The 640 Adventure has a 140/80, whereas the 640 Enduro has a 130/80 on virtually the same bike. Many Adv riders fit the smaller 130 because it makes the bike turn better.

I take it when the size is that close there's no rim size issue then?

warewolf
14th March 2009, 18:25
I take it when the size is that close there's no rim size issue then?Not on those two bikes, the rear rim is the same. Somewhat contrarily, they use the same size front tyre but the Adventure has a massive 2.15" front rim - although that means the front tyre has a flatter profile which would match the 140 rear.

Paladin
14th March 2009, 18:30
Not on those two bikes, the rear rim is the same. Somewhat contrarily, they use the same size front tyre but the Adventure has a massive 2.15" front rim - although that means the front tyre has a flatter profile which would match the 140 rear.

Super info as always, cheers Colin!

.chris
15th March 2009, 07:06
Please excuse the noob question, what about mixing tires?

Thinking of the rear wearing out quicker than the front, would it be ok to have a different tire on the rear? Or would this likely cause problems?

Cheers
c

Paladin
15th March 2009, 07:37
Please excuse the noob question, what about mixing tires?

Thinking of the rear wearing out quicker than the front, would it be ok to have a different tire on the rear? Or would this likely cause problems?

Cheers
c

You'll be alright there mate - lots of the guys are running combos - eg MT21 front, D606 rear etc etc depending on what the bike/rider/terrain needs to suit.

warewolf
15th March 2009, 19:33
Please excuse the noob question, what about mixing tires?You're excused! :hug:

Knobbly front with closer pattern rear for longevity gives the bike better front grip in the dirt, and less front grip on the tar. This latter means the bike will be low-side prone on the tar, which is arguably better than making the bike high-side prone (happens with sports/sportstourers running stickier front and harder long-life rear).

Personally I prefer the bike to be balanced front/rear, as this means the bike slides sideways rather than one end stepping out. Full knobbys on the tar, or road tyres on the dirt, or any combination in between, the bike handles the same either way; only the traction point changes.

junkmanjoe
15th March 2009, 21:16
after the pont of running out of traction, learning to far over.
then its to late.....front slips out, and the back follows soon after.....:Oops:

Paladin
15th March 2009, 22:42
Reading your informative posts is like having a peek inside some kind of motorcycle encyclopedia Colin! :2thumbsup




You're excused! :hug:

Knobbly front with closer pattern rear for longevity gives the bike better front grip in the dirt, and less front grip on the tar. This latter means the bike will be low-side prone on the tar, which is arguably better than making the bike high-side prone (happens with sports/sportstourers running stickier front and harder long-life rear).

Personally I prefer the bike to be balanced front/rear, as this means the bike slides sideways rather than one end stepping out. Full knobbys on the tar, or road tyres on the dirt, or any combination in between, the bike handles the same either way; only the traction point changes.

Padmei
16th March 2009, 19:47
Reading your informative posts is like having a peek inside some kind of motorcycle encyclopedia Colin! :2thumbsup

He is a very interesting person to talk to re bikes. Had a good natter during the laidback & came away with a head ful of ideas & deeper respect for our lil fanged friend.

WW get back into the garage & polish that bike - if your head can get thru the door now:shutup:

Paladin
16th March 2009, 20:04
He is a very interesting person to talk to re bikes. Had a good natter during the laidback & came away with a head ful of ideas & deeper respect for our lil fanged friend.

WW get back into the garage & polish that bike - if your head can get thru the door now:shutup:

I'm sure he could teach me a hell of alot as could quite a few other people on this forum! Actually one of the nice things about this particular forum(apart from the good humour!) is that people are actually very helpful WITHOUT being big headed egotistical arseholes about it!

clint640
17th March 2009, 10:31
Please excuse the noob question, what about mixing tires?

Thinking of the rear wearing out quicker than the front, would it be ok to have a different tire on the rear? Or would this likely cause problems?

Cheers
c

As Colin notes above, you don't want to go radically different front/back, but I've been running different tyres front & back, for general adv use, for ages. A lot of the dual purpose tyres seem to have a much less aggressive front tyre than the rear, & anything too knobby on the back just disappears too quickly.

My current combo of EO-7 rear & TKC 80 front both have a similar knob/void ratio & they seem to have a good balance of traction front & rear. The EO-7 front looks too roady, & the TKC rear wouldn't last long, so it works for me.

Cheers
Clint

Oscar
17th March 2009, 10:39
As Colin notes above, you don't want to go radically different front/back, but I've been running different tyres front & back, for general adv use, for ages. A lot of the dual purpose tyres seem to have a much less aggressive front tyre than the rear, & anything too knobby on the back just disappears too quickly.

My current combo of EO-7 rear & TKC 80 front both have a similar knob/void ratio & they seem to have a good balance of traction front & rear. The EO-7 front looks too roady, & the TKC rear wouldn't last long, so it works for me.

Cheers
Clint


I run a TKC80 front and an OEM Scorpion MT90 rear on my 950.
The KR 990 Project bike has Scorpions both ends, and I am well impressed with performance on gravel.

Underground
17th March 2009, 21:56
My current combo of EO-7 rear & TKC 80 front both have a similar knob/void ratio & they seem to have a good balance of traction front & rear. The EO-7 front looks too roady, & the TKC rear wouldn't last long, so it works for me.

Cheers
Clint

Snap, that combo got me through the Kikiwau laidback without having to push or pick the bike up, plus I pushed it pretty hard on the seal and gravel back to home without having any 'moments' Combo of choice at the mo .

cynna
21st March 2009, 09:34
ended up getting the mitas c02. looks like it has some decent knobs to get me thru winter - havent had the time to try it out yet

thanks for all the info

fredontour
30th March 2009, 15:10
What are your favourite on / off road tyres?
Looking for the best all rounder

Bridgestone trailwings: Road: Good, Gravel (Dry) Ok, Gravel (Wet) Urrrrrgh, Mud NO WAY
Continental TKC80 Road Good, Gravel Good, Mud Ok

Mitas E 07,gravel wet+dry top,mud 09 model is better ,but working ,i drive it on klr 650,maybe this tire in NZ not avaiable?????,fredontour.de

NordieBoy
30th March 2009, 17:17
Mitas E 07,gravel wet+dry top,mud 09 model is better ,but working ,i drive it on klr 650,maybe this tire in NZ not avaiable?????,fredontour.de

Available.

I like the E-07 rear with a more knobby E-09/MT-21/D606 type on the front.

Paladin
30th March 2009, 18:36
Available.

I like the E-07 rear with a more knobby E-09/MT-21/D606 type on the front.

Junkmanjoe's E-07's certainly went pretty damn well on Odlins Road and the Pram Track yesterday! He didn't seem to be getting any less traction than the guys on E-09's/D606's on the rear from what I could see.

Actually its about time one of us took close up photos of AndyMac's tyres - I just have no idea how he does it, he might as well be on slicks and he hardly ever has an off or misses pulling up a loose incline - awesome stuff!
:wacko:

junkmanjoe
30th March 2009, 20:05
i think its a secret 007 tire,, spikes pop out for the tricky bits the go back in on the easy stuff.......:shifty:

junkmanjoe
30th March 2009, 20:09
Mitas E 07,gravel wet+dry top,mud 09 model is better ,but working ,i drive it on klr 650,maybe this tire in NZ not avaiable?????,fredontour.de


hi, in the north island, the mitas importer can be found in Palmerston north.
have a look here.
http://www.lmsimports.co.nz/products.php?cat=2

im running E-07s front and rear. on my 650.

Underground
31st March 2009, 09:33
Actually its about time one of us took close up photos of AndyMac's tyres - I just have no idea how he does it, he might as well be on slicks and he hardly ever has an off or misses pulling up a loose incline - awesome stuff!
:wacko:

umm he's riding a HONDA :yes: a bit of quality makes all the difference

Paladin
31st March 2009, 10:46
umm he's riding a HONDA :yes: a bit of quality makes all the difference

Haha, yeah maaaaaaybe, but I rckon alot of it is down to Andy's undoubted skills as a rider! :msn-wink:

Box'a'bits
31st March 2009, 20:01
I reckon its because he's not worried about falling off, so he doesn't. It's all in your head.

Oscar
31st March 2009, 20:26
hi, in the north island, the mitas importer can be found in Palmerston north.
have a look here.
http://www.lmsimports.co.nz/products.php?cat=2

im running E-07s front and rear. on my 650.

When are Mitas gonna make a 150/70x18!!???:crybaby:

Paladin
31st March 2009, 20:29
I reckon its because he's not worried about falling off, so he doesn't. It's all in your head.

This somewhat :Offtopic: so apologies, but I guess sorta related to confidence in tyres/tyre choice!

There's probably some good truth in that - positive mental attitude etc etc.

Some of it is definitely down to experience(in a broad sense across mental & physical) I'm finding now. I know when I rode the Pram track for the first time a couple of weeks ago on the KLX, i found the long decent challenging and to certain extent scary, BUT going back in there for the 2nd time and doing the same descent this Sunday on the DR, AFTER having accomplished the challenge of Odlins Rd, I just didn't mind it at all - felt more in control and less worried by a long way. I guess its down to "experience" and the multitude of things that can include: time on bike, accomplished a goal you had fear over, completed something up a level on challenge/fear factor that makes previous situation more comfortable etc etc; that kind of thing.

I know on Sunday the TrailWings were WAY less of a problem than I had built up in my head on most of the route, and can admit that the couple of major problems I had of course happened just where I told myself it looked bad! Negative thought process affecting my riding/state of focus or relaxatiion???

I dunno, BUT the fact that AndyMac does so extremely well on these rides on the tyres he has on the T/A proves tyres are not the be all and end all to how comfortably you traverse a route, is my conclusion for where I am at the moment - still learning but that's a good thing as its fun!

:msn-wink:

junkmanjoe
31st March 2009, 20:57
When are Mitas gonna make a 150/70x18!!???:crybaby:

umm you might have to put a suzuki or kawasaki back wheel on your bike.....:2thumbsup

any one had any trouble useing the E-09 front tire.

slipouts, e.t.c

Box'a'bits
31st March 2009, 21:04
So far the rides have been dry. <_< So Andy's (& basically any tyre) will perform okay, as long as it doesn't get a sideways load.

BUT I'm putting on more open (& deeper knobbed) MT21s for the King Country tour, given a chance of mud, and slippery clay, where the more closed up tyres may just clag up. Hopefully they'll wear okay, because I doubt I'll be able to afford more tyres this winter...

I'll probably swap back to my MT70 rear & Trailwing 301 front for the commute & gravel road riding.

cooneyr
31st March 2009, 21:05
When are Mitas gonna make a 150/70x18!!???:crybaby:

I was talking to the guys at Dirt Action Services here in Chch and they have heard that Mitas are working on 150 and larger tyres right now. Have been working on them since Xmas and should be available middle of the year. All hearsay but would be good if it is true!

Cheers R

Paladin
31st March 2009, 21:08
So far the rides have been dry. <_< So Andy's (& basically any tyre) will perform okay, as long as it doesn't get a sideways load. BUT I'm putting on more open (& deeper knobbed) MT21s for the King Country tour, given a chance of mud, and slippery clay, where the more closed up tyres may just clag up. Hopefully they'll wear okay, because I doubt I'll be able to afford more tyres this winter...

You just had to mention mud, slippery clay & clagging up in one post didn't ya! :rolleyes:

Now I've gone all meek and worried again! :Pokey:

junkmanjoe
31st March 2009, 21:10
i did get caught out in the pram track, on damp clay, E-07 just let go, going up a steepish section,
so i picked up a new set of E-09's last night.
i too are a bit worried about the weather for the KCR.

Underground
31st March 2009, 21:17
Staying upright definately has alot to do with rider ability ,but if you want to improve your percieved ability put the best tyre you can afford on the front because if you can keep the front upright you're sweet.
Ive worn out plenty of TW42's on the rear but I sure as hell wouldnt wear one on the front ,I use a TKC80

Paladin
31st March 2009, 21:19
i did get caught out in the pram track, on damp clay, E-07 just let go, going up a steepish section,
so i picked up a new set of E-09's last night.
i too are a bit worried about the weather for the KCR.

Yeah think you'll find those E-09's were for me - you stole them from under my nose - TM -grrrrrrrrrr!

:laugh:

XF650
31st March 2009, 21:52
On the XF I'v found the EO9 front to be a great tyre & hasn't washed out on me (yet), especially as I need all the help I can get for the 19" front.
The only times the EO9 rear has slid out (unintentionally) was on hard base with light fine gravel, where I think the EO7 would have held. For penetration in thick stuff though, the EO9 is the better tyre of the two. However the EO7 lasts a lot longer.

junkmanjoe
31st March 2009, 21:59
Yeah think you'll find those E-09's were for me - you stole them from under my nose - TM -grrrrrrrrrr!

:laugh:

well sorry matey

its open season on there so ya better be quicker on the BUYNOW button.

as you now know, if theres a bargin on there, its going to end up in my shed. :Playnice:

warewolf
31st March 2009, 23:01
There's probably some good truth in that - positive mental attitude etc etc.Motorcycles have to be ridden with confidence. The "if in doubt, power out" homily is true, insofar as gentle acceleration (which includes just enough to hold your speed) usually helps. An accelerating bike is becoming more stable, a decelerating bike is becoming less stable - due to weight shift and gyroscopic effects. Bikes are set up ex-factory for this, for best results you must ride accordingly. A turning/free-wheeling wheel will grip (steer or simply hold a line) in places a braking wheel won't... confident vs not.

Ride the bike into the ground, never give up. I've had the enduro bike low-sided at 90 degrees to the direction of travel, peg on the ground, and kept riding it (fighting/correcting) like it was merely "a little out of line", and it's popped up and continued on as normal, didn't even put a foot down. (An extreme but real example.) The bike will usually out-perform the rider, the trick is to not make bad inputs. Mind you, I've also had the adventure bike on the ground in a similar position, but stopped with me still trying to "save" it... at least it was probably better to stop like that than bail off at some point.

Oscar
31st March 2009, 23:21
Motorcycles have to be ridden with confidence.

Ha!
Fear is the only thing keeping me alive.
The equation is:

(100hp + knobblies + wet road) x (Vege in a hurry) = Terror.


Me

Woodman
1st April 2009, 19:29
Think I have posted before about e09s, but here is a report so far.

Good grip front and rear, but the laidback trail ride proved they are nowhere near a full nondot knobbly for wet grip.

The rear does not have good side grip, which is a bit of a worry on off camber slippery surfaces, but a blast on gravel corners as the back comes out real well and predictably.
I do not find them too noisy on the road and the front does not make the steering heavy. Done a big day ride on a wet day and did a fair bit of windy tar roads and they were excellent, in fact brilliant.
i run about 26 psi front and rear.
After 2200 kms the front knobs are surfing a bit and the rear won't make 3000kms.

Warewolf is right with the confidence thing. Need to learn to use the other brake, that being the windy one on the right.

NordieBoy
1st April 2009, 19:42
Need to learn to use the other brake, that being the windy one on the right.

Yeah. The throttle dosn't just go one way. You can twist it forward too :D

Padmei
3rd April 2009, 20:58
I'm finding the same thing with the newish E09 on the back. On rocky shaley shitty stuff like at the top of the Maungatapu it doesn't spin & is very grippy whereas the MT21 was spinning it's guts out. As was pointed out by Topo it would be because of the width of the point of contact of the row of Knobs. On gravel it slides out easily but predictably with the throttle whereas the Mt21 was better cornering. The MT21 rear was great on mud/ clay whereas the E09 is not very good unless keeping a steady hand on the throttle.

I've got a new Dunop 606 on the front & to be honest I can't tell the difference yet between the new 606 & the old very very bald canvassing front MT21. That said I haven't ridden it on wet roads (it doesn't rain much now in Nelson) nor any local laidbacks:sweatdrop

NordieBoy
3rd April 2009, 22:11
That said I haven't ridden it on wet roads (it doesn't rain much now in Nelson) nor any local laidbacks:sweatdrop

Take it for a quick blat on the lawn in the morning :D

Oscar
3rd April 2009, 22:14
Yeah. The throttle dosn't just go one way. You can twist it forward too :D

I tried that.
A nice man waved me over to the side of the road and gave me a bit of paper with my speed on it.

Paladin
3rd April 2009, 22:20
Take it for a quick blat on the lawn in the morning :D

bloody hilarious!!!

:niceone:


:devil2:

warewolf
4th April 2009, 21:20
I'm finding the same thing with the newish E09 on the back. On rocky shaley shitty stuff like at the top of the Maungatapu it doesn't spin & is very grippy whereas the MT21 was spinning it's guts out.Yet I would rate my experience as either the opposite, or a tie (but mine's a Michelin T63 not an E-09). When new, the MT21 is a pretty rip snortin' tyre, but is known to lose a lot of off-road grip within the first portion of its life, say the first third.

warewolf
4th April 2009, 21:22
A nice man waved me over to the side of the road and gave me a bit of paper with my speed on it.Gave you, or sold you?

Oscar
4th April 2009, 21:47
Gave you, or sold you?

$130 20 Demerits...:baby:

Woodman
5th April 2009, 08:32
$130 20 Demerits...:baby:

How many demerits now before you are walking? I mean total for anyone not just you.

blackballs
5th April 2009, 08:47
FYI

http://www.mitasmx.com/shop/index.php?l=product_list&c=new

Oscar
5th April 2009, 09:46
How many demerits now before you are walking? I mean total for anyone not just you.

100 (or in my case another 60)

warewolf
7th April 2009, 16:58
This tyre, a Michelin Competition III road-legal enduro tyre, was in good shape, but maybe 30% worn at the start of our ride last Saturday (Maungatapu, Mt Altimarloch, Mt Patriarch return). The tread blocks were all present and square, just not at full height. It was destroyed in <500km, at road pressure 29psi. The trouble started with the Maungatapu cutting it up. Then the narrower intermediate knobs were ripped off at the base. Drive and especially braking deteriorated noticeably during the day.

The tyre was manufactured in 2001, so it was a bit old, dry and hard - at the trail ride the other week it was rather unyielding - I don't know if that contributed to its sudden demise. Anyway, it seems for rocky roads an open-pattern tyre is not a good idea. Mitas E-07 is a likely next choice, I will be very keen to see if it grips as well as lasts better. Nordie's recent tests on the Maungatapu would suggest so.

I nearly used this tyre on the Dusty Butt; glad I didn't! Although a new one might survive the day.

http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o20/warewolf885/event/20090404AP/CompetitionIIIWorn2.jpg

http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o20/warewolf885/event/20090404AP/CompetitionIIIWorn1.jpg

junkmanjoe
7th April 2009, 19:24
my set of E-09's arived to day.

guess ill pop them on for a few rides coming up on calendar.

just in case it rains.....:eek5:

Underground
7th April 2009, 19:58
What did you do on the Maungatapu on the way home WW ? it wasnt looking that bad when you left us

Padmei
7th April 2009, 20:16
my set of E-09's arived to day.

guess ill pop them on for a few rides coming up on calendar.

just in case it rains.....:eek5:

Let us know how you find the front... You could sell all those toy cars & buy another bike for wet days

NordieBoy
7th April 2009, 20:27
It was destroyed in <500km, at road pressure 29psi. The trouble started with the Maungatapu cutting it up. Then the narrower intermediate knobs were ripped off at the base. Drive and especially braking deteriorated noticeably during the day.

At that pressure the carcass isn't able to flex enough to allow the base of the knobs to move around much so all the energy is applied to the knob itself.

The bigger knobs of the MT21/TKC80 have the strength to handle the higher pressures better.

Well that's what looking at those pics says to me anyway :D

warewolf
7th April 2009, 21:05
What did you do on the Maungatapu on the way home WW ? it wasnt looking that bad when you left usYeah it was. That's why I wasn't keen on going home via the Whangamoas, with the higher speeds and severe cornering. I figured the slower speeds on the Maunga would be better, if harder on the tyre.


At that pressure the carcass isn't able to flex enough to allow the base of the knobs to move around much so all the energy is applied to the knob itself.That's probably the answer. Max pressure on that tyre is only 32psi - relatively low.

Woodman
7th April 2009, 21:11
32psi is low??

What pressures do you guys run on your tyres,?? I run about 25 front and rear on e09's.

cooneyr
7th April 2009, 21:12
This tyre, a Michelin Competition III road-legal enduro tyre, was in good shape, but maybe 30% worn at the start of our ride last Saturday (Maungatapu, Mt Altimarloch, Mt Patriarch return). The tread blocks were all present and square, just not at full height. It was destroyed in <500km, at road pressure 29psi. The trouble started with the Maungatapu cutting it up. Then the narrower intermediate knobs were ripped off at the base. Drive and especially braking deteriorated noticeably during the day.....

Must be the rocks up your way. The ride that we did between Xmas and new year just been I gave a Michy Desert a really good working over in about 300kms. Deserts are suppose to be tough right? The Mitas E-09 is lasting much better. Maybe there is some truth to Nordie's comments, wider knobs are better (oh-err) for rocky terrain.

Cheers R

junkmanjoe
7th April 2009, 22:00
Let us know how you find the front... You could sell all those toy cars & buy another bike for wet days

them toy ferrari cars are worth over $500 u.s.a dollars each.
pocher, diecast, 1/8 scale.

warewolf
8th April 2009, 09:42
32psi is low??For the tyre's specified 'maximum inflation pressure', yes. Dual-purpose tyres are often 40-ish psi, road tyres can be well above that. A quick google shows DOT-knobblies like this one are often low-to-mid thirties.


What pressures do you guys run on your tyres,?? I run about 25 front and rear on e09's.Varies. Spec on the 640A is 21/29, I tend to run a couple psi more in the front on-road as it feels a bit too soft. 18/24 for adventure work usually, which works on-road too. -2psi either end for gnarly stuff, but that's far too squidgy on-road. With a grippy enduro front tyre I can get away with 22psi even in the snotty stuff.

Woodman
8th April 2009, 21:15
ordered a Michelin t63 today, I love the e09s but the mitchy is cheaper and looks similar. It will be interesting to compare the two when I get it on.

Padmei
8th April 2009, 21:47
them toy ferrari cars are worth over $500 u.s.a dollars each.
pocher, diecast, 1/8 scale.

Funny - they're seling at shell for a bit less than that. anyway off topic sorry

Paladin
9th April 2009, 15:49
mmmmm D606's mmmmmmm TRACTION ........ Finally!

:2thumbsup

Suppose I had better buy a pump now and learn real fast how to change a tyre without pinching the tube!

:calm:

dino3310
10th April 2009, 16:53
nice one mate, quite an aggresive looking tyre. theyll serve you well on the mighty DR.
eerr How much$$$

junkmanjoe
10th April 2009, 20:22
fitted the mitas E-09s to day, went for short ride, seal and gravel, get a feel for them, just love the gravel, heaps control, over all happy with the feel, minor road noise, nothing to worry about.

Paladin
11th April 2009, 08:10
nice one mate, quite an aggresive looking tyre. theyll serve you well on the mighty DR.
eerr How much$$$

$300 for the pair!
(less shop discount of 10%)!!!

junkmanjoe
12th April 2009, 21:14
i put my mitas E-09,s to work this morning.
going over the Rimutaka range road.
its very twisy and a good climb up, the tires handle beter than i thought, leaning right over, no road noise, no worse than the E-07s. very happy with them.

Woodman
12th April 2009, 21:18
i put my mitas E-09,s to work this morning.
going over the Rimutaka range road.
its very twisy and a good climb up, the tires handle beter than i thought, leaning right over, no road noise, no worse than the E-07s. very happy with them.

Very good in the wet too, mind you I wouldn't push it.
Will try mine on the tukas next week too.

junkmanjoe
12th April 2009, 21:25
are you comming over

Woodman
12th April 2009, 21:43
are you comming over

going to napier for mums 75th on friday, but haven't decided which way to go yet. Limited time really for any adventuring so will probarbly road it all the way.
Is the saddle road gravel or paved??
Coming back through on monday.
This trip will be the end of my rear e09 i reckon.

Paladin
13th April 2009, 09:12
OK so I know they are the first full knobblies I have ridden on BUT even so I have to say the D606's were mightily impressive - once I got the feel for how knobbies like to bite, they were a blast and really gave me so much confidence - which unfortunately I took a little too far in the gung ho stakes!

:Oops:

After the ride, they were well scrubbed in and felt great on the tarmac too, occasional little travel out on corners on front end but pretty darn good, rear feels stable as hell on the tarmac!

I love 'em!

:wari:

NordieBoy
25th April 2009, 17:09
That is a complete rip-off of the MT21, apart from the textured finish...and the price

What is ?

warewolf
25th April 2009, 17:51
That is a complete rip-off of the MT21, apart from the textured finish...and the price


What is ?Vee Rubber VRM 147(?), but it's said to have a rubber compound about 25% harder.

It's further back in the thread, IIRC.

Hmmm... that's strange (http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showpost.php?p=674417&postcount=13). (Spammer now history!)

Woodman
25th April 2009, 19:07
Vee Rubber VRM 147(?), but it's said to have a rubber compound about 25% harder.

It's further back in the thread, IIRC.

Hmmm... that's strange (http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showpost.php?p=674417&postcount=13).

hey WW how long did your rear t63 last?
I have one to put on and was just wondering, as I have heard after i got it that they don't last all that long.

Padmei
25th April 2009, 20:23
That is a complete ripoff of a MT21

NordieBoy
25th April 2009, 21:28
That is a complete ripoff of a MT21

The MT21 is enough of a ripoff on it's own.
You seen the latest price for a rear?

warewolf
25th April 2009, 21:34
hey WW how long did your rear t63 last?
I have one to put on and was just wondering, as I have heard after i got it that they don't last all that long.Still going. Looks like it will match my typical wear from an MT21, but this one's had a hard life - more dirt/rock less tar than usual. Several sources indicated they last maybe 20% better than the MT21. So that seems to fit so far.