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Thread: Flange bolts - where to buy?

  1. #16
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    Yes. Heat cycling. That's what I was thinking of, not expansion rate.
    Quote Originally Posted by skidmark
    This world has lost it's drive, everybody just wants to fit in the be the norm as it were.
    Quote Originally Posted by Phil Vincent
    The manufacturers go to a lot of trouble to find out what the average rider prefers, because the maker who guesses closest to the average preference gets the largest sales. But the average rider is mainly interested in silly (as opposed to useful) “goodies” to try to kid the public that he is riding a racer

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by vifferman View Post
    Flange bolts? Sounds familiar, but what do you need them for (what application)?
    all the bolts on my engine are flange bolts (except for the side covers), and stainless -it's a 1980 gs 850 (that i'm rebuilding in another threadhere)
    i snapped a few trying to correctly torque them and thought i should replace them with the same type bolt

  3. #18
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    Unhappy

    Quote Originally Posted by Fooman View Post
    Aren't flange bolts bolts with a flange built into the head (like an in-built washer)? Used for things like bolting brake discs to wheels.
    yup, that's what i'm after, bolts like on your photo, that are wider at the head base, all the bolts on my engine are like that (the gs850 that's appart, in another thread here), and also the nuts that hold down the block and the head

    sorry if that wasn't clear from the beggining, i thought that's what a flange bolt meant and didn't know there were other meanings

    why stainless? because that's what the originals seem to be. not?
    a few of the nuts were replaced with ordinary steel nuts and rusted so much that i ended up undoing the whole head-holding-down stud before being able to remove the nut from the stud...

  4. #19
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    Doubt that head retaining bolts would be bog 316 stainless. They're usually a very specific grade of steel, designed to stretch just the right amount under the specified torque. Not quite as specific as bigend bolts, but getting up there. I'd be very hesitant to replace top end retaining bolts or studs with anything other than the kosher article. If I had to cos the genuine thing wasn't available, I'd got for a high tensile steel item, and if necessary use a separate washer.
    Quote Originally Posted by skidmark
    This world has lost it's drive, everybody just wants to fit in the be the norm as it were.
    Quote Originally Posted by Phil Vincent
    The manufacturers go to a lot of trouble to find out what the average rider prefers, because the maker who guesses closest to the average preference gets the largest sales. But the average rider is mainly interested in silly (as opposed to useful) “goodies” to try to kid the public that he is riding a racer

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ixion View Post
    Doubt that head retaining bolts would be bog 316 stainless. They're usually a very specific grade of steel, designed to stretch just the right amount under the specified torque. Not quite as specific as bigend bolts, but getting up there. I'd be very hesitant to replace top end retaining bolts or studs with anything other than the kosher article. If I had to cos the genuine thing wasn't available, I'd got for a high tensile steel item, and if necessary use a separate washer.
    cheers. i'm not saying it's 316 but it looks like stainless and definitely doesn't rust (and my knowledge is really limited here)
    anyhow, do you know where i can find M10 fine thread high tensile nuts?

  6. #21
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    Hm. The Suzuki parts fiche appears to show ordinary long studs from crankcase throuh the barrel and head, with a washer and nut on the top. Usual stuff. Nuts studs and washers still available ex Suzuki, nuts about 2 bucks US studs 3 or 4 bucks. Reckon if you talked nicely to the guys at Colemans they'd order them for you.

    Maybe some previous owner tried to get pretty ?

    EDIT: there's what looks like a dome head nut and washer on the outside studs, still listed about $5US. And a couple of smaller bolts that go somewhere , also still listed.
    Quote Originally Posted by skidmark
    This world has lost it's drive, everybody just wants to fit in the be the norm as it were.
    Quote Originally Posted by Phil Vincent
    The manufacturers go to a lot of trouble to find out what the average rider prefers, because the maker who guesses closest to the average preference gets the largest sales. But the average rider is mainly interested in silly (as opposed to useful) “goodies” to try to kid the public that he is riding a racer

  7. #22
    Japanese M10 theads aren't ISO,they will need to be sourced OE.I have so many nuts and bolts salesmen come in and say they can do any metric bolt there is.So I hand them any randomly picked Japanese M10 bolt - ''NO problem Sir,we have plenty of those!''.They don't bother to come back,but just ring up saying they can't do them.Go to PickApart and scrounge around,or change tack - cadnium plate steel nuts and bolts,it's fairly cheap.
    In and out of jobs, running free
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  8. #23
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    Here's a good list of finishes that I use for reference.

    http://www.allmetalcorp.com/htm/pg8_6_00.htm
    If it wasn't for a concise set of rules, we might have to resort to common sense!

  9. #24
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    GS head nuts will be steel (probably grade 8 or better but steel) the acorn nuts are chromed, noit stainless.
    The factory service manual has a table of all the nuts and bolts and their material or grade, I could post this info if required (don't know if the Clymer or Haynes manuals will have this)
    it's not a bad thing till you throw a KLR into the mix.
    those cheap ass bitches can do anything with ductape.
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  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Motu View Post
    Japanese M10 theads aren't ISO,they will need to be sourced OE.
    I've struck a few Suzuki OEM fasteners that don't match any standard thread form. I've often thought it's the Japs way at getting back at the west for the war. The Eyeties are pretty good at it too, although they take a different tack and use ISO standard M7 & M11, just for a laugh!

  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by pete376403 View Post
    GS head nuts will be steel (probably grade 8 or better but steel) the acorn nuts are chromed, noit stainless.
    The factory service manual has a table of all the nuts and bolts and their material or grade, I could post this info if required (don't know if the Clymer or Haynes manuals will have this)
    mate, that would be great, my haynes manual doesn't have it

  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by awful-truth View Post
    Here's a good list of finishes that I use for reference.

    http://www.allmetalcorp.com/htm/pg8_6_00.htm
    very informative, thank you

  13. #28
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    Unfortunately being the shithole backwater NZ is, most of them will not be available retail but even if they are you'll actually struggle to find out which ones any particular company can supply as the counter staff aren't the most informative, and the reps aren't much better.
    If it wasn't for a concise set of rules, we might have to resort to common sense!

  14. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Madness View Post
    I've struck a few Suzuki OEM fasteners that don't match any standard thread form. I've often thought it's the Japs way at getting back at the west for the war. The Eyeties are pretty good at it too, although they take a different tack and use ISO standard M7 & M11, just for a laugh!
    In what way are they not ISO/DIN compliant? I don't think there is a JIS standard for fasteners. The 'eyeties' would be DIN for sure.

    Here's one I use for thread reference:
    http://www.gewinde-normen.de/en/index.html
    If it wasn't for a concise set of rules, we might have to resort to common sense!

  15. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by awful-truth View Post
    In what way are they not ISO/DIN compliant?
    I've struck a few OEM threads on Suzuki's (in a previous sales role) where the pitch was far finer than ISO fine pitch, can't remember any specific details but a sump-plug comes to mind that was something like M14 x 0.75. Weird shit like that would crop up from time to time, always fun trying to explain to customers that they couldn't buy what was required.

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