Help! Sump plug stripped

**IIIRII** · 30th May 2009, 10:16

Removing the bolt is straight forward [for a quality tradesman at least]. Re-threading with either a heli-coil type insert or manufactured plug should the hole be destroyed in some manner is straight forward.

BUT...............regardless of the use of vacuum cleaner and/or grease on the re-threading tap or any other manner of minimising the swarf.............a possibility exists that swarf will remain in the crankcase. Individuals should be aware of the potential risk of motor damage from swarf when performing re-threading/inserting procedure on a crankcase.

Ev this is correct.
The other thing is, by the time you go and buy a tap and a new sump plug, you might have well as just got it helicoiled....

PS Re magnetic sump plugs, I fail to see how this will pick up aluminium swarf thats remaining in the sump ...

Helicoil + lots of crankcase flushing.

Sorted.

The safest way is to pull the engine down and tig a new spigot onto the case.

But thats an overkill on your bike.

I have seen and read about car engines (RB26's) being helicoiled in place with no side effects .....
If they are happy to do it on $30,000 engines, the KX should manage ok ....

Its not like its a KTM or something its only an old bomb KX125 :P

**cs363** · 30th May 2009, 11:01

Originally Posted by flyingcr250

was there really any need for the bad rep???? i was just disagreeing with you.

It's unfortunate that there are a few people on here who choose to use red rep when someone doesn't agree with them, instead of actually arguing their case.
This is after all a forum and that's the whole idea of a forum to promote discussion and debate whilst providing useful information.
Spineless pricks like your red repper don't contribute to the site at all IMO.

Personally I think there is hardly ever a reason for red rep, it's something that should be used sparingly if at all.

As far as the methods of dealing with swarf removal, whilst he's technically correct as the last poster says the risk is minimal with a helicoil and lots of flushing. Particularly as it's a gearbox sump plug being a 2 stroke. Any tiny bits of aluminum swarf left after flushing are likely to be removed with subsequent oil changes. You will have to ensure you remove the 'tail' of the heli coil though, so a flexible magnet would be handy if that doesn't come out cleanly.

My rant over now too...

**B0000M** · 30th May 2009, 15:53

at the end of the day the gearbox gets full of clutch filings anyway, whats a little bit more shit guna do!

**honda_power** · 30th May 2009, 15:54

Originally Posted by flyingcr250

yea both my bad reps are from road bikers. how am i going to sleep at night now.

join the club

i still dont even know what rep does so doesnt really bother me

**oldskool** · 30th May 2009, 17:44

C'mon guys settle down!! There's no need for the personal insults!!! I had a great ride today, let off a lot of steam, seems to me this is what yawl need to do...ride that is!!

What I'm gonna do is ring around, ring Alex Gee too, and get someone who knows what they're doing to do the job. I'll see what they did and let you in on their little trade secrets!!! Hows that?

BTW I do tend to agree with Boom and IIIRII. It is a 2T after all, and if all the swarf doesn't come out what's a few extra really really fine shavings gonna do, really. Flatten and squish around the cogs into nothing and eventually get stuck to the bottom of the casing?

**popelli** · 30th May 2009, 18:16

Originally Posted by gatch

Helicoils are easy to install, just the swarf from the drilling and tapping, then breaking the tail off the heli coil might leave a mess in your motor..

no problem wrap loads of grease on the drill bit and the tap to capture the swarf

re the tang, needle nose pliers to break it off and remove it

**theblacksmith** · 30th May 2009, 21:01

[/QUOTE]BTW I do tend to agree with Boom and IIIRII. It is a 2T after all, and if all the swarf doesn't come out what's a few extra really really fine shavings gonna do, really. Flatten and squish around the cogs into nothing and eventually get stuck to the bottom of the casing?[/QUOTE]

I absolutely agree as well- aluminum is the 3rd most malleable metal. I also would like to state that a new or properly sharpened drill bit drilling aluminum at a very slow rpm using paraffin as a cutting aid without going too far into gearbox(measure thickness and have a stop on the drill to prevent going in any further than is needed) and feeding drill constantly into ali will produce 2 swarfs(if you know what youre doing)not millions of missiles as were stated. Only an idiot would force the drill at full rpm and wiggle it in and out of casing.Who was it that mentioned millions of missiles? He who doesn't trust himself usually doesn't trust others either.
Good luck with the repair mate.
Hope we'll catch up on a ride somewhere.

PS- Henry Ford had a team of R&D 'specialist engineers' who ALL told him that a V8 motor was impossible to develop.
Just as well he did'nt listen to any of them!

**B0000M** · 30th May 2009, 23:57

Originally Posted by theblacksmith

PS- Henry Ford had a team of R&D 'specialist engineers' who ALL told him that a V8 motor was impossible to develop.

there arent many good ones.......

**Motoxparts** · 31st May 2009, 21:34

A good engine reconditioner will fix a striped thread will fit a recoil or heicoil that is were the bike shop will take it have a look in the yellow pages under engine reconditioners they also do all the bike shops reboring honing cylinder head work etc

www.motoxparts.co.nz
06 8749495

**SixPackBack** · 1st June 2009, 14:06

..............Fook me what a bunch of babies.
I'll keep it simple.

"Unless a visual check is made swarf maybe left in the crankcase"-fact.

Washing with hydrocarbon, blowing with air, using grease on the tap or using your magic wand will not GAURANTEE your crankcase is swarf free.

**Cr1MiNaL** · 1st June 2009, 15:09

shit its piss easy, it worked for me no worries... why all the hype over such a simple 2 minute job???

**theblacksmith** · 2nd June 2009, 00:38

Originally Posted by YamahaR64Life

shit its piss easy, it worked for me no worries... why all the hype over such a simple 2 minute job???

Of course it is mate- I found it easier than wiping my arse in a Portaloo.
Fuck - did I need an endoscope for that as well maybe?
To be sure to be sure.

PS - SPB - How do you spell GUARANTEE again Mr Informed?

Ooooh - I see I have my first red rep lol.
Nice contrast in amongst them green ones choice...Chuurrrrr!

**SixPackBack** · 2nd June 2009, 07:00

Originally Posted by YamahaR64Life

shit its piss easy, it worked for me no worries... why all the hype over such a simple 2 minute job???

Originally Posted by theblacksmith

Of course it is mate- I found it easier than wiping my arse in a Portaloo.
Fuck - did I need an endoscope for that as well maybe?
To be sure to be sure.

PS - SPB - How do you spell GUARANTEE again Mr Informed?

Ooooh - I see I have my first red rep lol.
Nice contrast in amongst them green ones choice...Chuurrrrr!

How did either of you check to make absolutely sure that no swarf was left in the crankcase?

**jonbuoy** · 2nd June 2009, 07:15

Originally Posted by SixPackBack

..............Fook me what a bunch of babies.
I'll keep it simple.

"Unless a visual check is made swarf maybe left in the crankcase"-fact.

Washing with hydrocarbon, blowing with air, using grease on the tap or using your magic wand will not GAURANTEE your crankcase is swarf free.

Ok to be 100% sure the sump is swarf free you would need a complete strip. Worst case scenario of a bit of swarf left in the sump would also result in a shorter time to the next rebuild and a complete strip. Like has been said the right speed, lube, drill bit steady hand and a vacuum cleaner and it will be OK. Theres a fair amount of shite at the bottom of most sumps anyway.