FIRST BIKE - Dual DRZ250 - Any recommendations?

[warewolf]

Welcome along, nice choice of bike! If you haven't found it already: Drz250 Thread.

I had an '01 model for a couple of years. First thing I did was have the rear shock re-valved, that transformed the handling. The tuner didn't think working on the front was worth it (raised the oil height is all), but Aussie mags report great success with RaceTech GVEs in the front - and left the rear alone! Mine was an Aussie-spec bike, too; I still don't understand those conflicting points of view, but the front on mine was a bit stiff (good for Woodhill sand) and not so nice on rocks.

Oh, and I fitted new stronger alloy bars and barkbusters, replaced the long stiff indicators with cheap small flexible ones. If you replace all the fragile OEM stuff with useful after-market stuff NOW, when you sell the bike you can re-install the originals and take the good stuff to your next bike. What usually happens is ppl only replace the OEM stuff after it's broken.

I never got around to doing any engine mods on mine, too busy riding it. A magazine article I have stashed away says the exhaust is one of the few made these days that is heavy, noisy and restrictive, so in dire need of replacement. IIRC 22rwhp standard and 24-5 with a staintune and re-jet, and the usual bigger gains in the midrange. Staintune reported no power gains from opening the airbox, just more noise.

One big thing I noticed, given the bike spent a lot of time at or near full-throttle: the air filter must be scrupulously clean, or you will lose a lot of power and the top-end throttle response will be all doughy. So get yourself a No Toil kit, or whatever you prefer, and use it.

Go for a good bashplate. Mine never had one, the frame was munted when I bought it so I figured it was too late to bother retro-fitting. It slowly got more munted, as did the footpeg mounts. Standard it has a skid plate to provide key protection from rocks, but as you note, not the sides of the cases.

Enjoy!

[nkcowboy]

And I thought buying a new-ish bike would leave me sorted! From the sounds of it, I got a lot of work to do to get it up to spec!

That's ok though, I'm always looking for ways to improve what I have (READ: Spend money).

So far, what I guess I need to buy ASAP are:
FOR BIKE:
- Bash Plate
-----(Do they sell good ones in NZ, or only Aus?)
- Indicator lights
-----(Current ones are way out. Do any bike lights fit, or have to be special?)
- Maybe play with springs
-----(Got to get used to it first, wouldn't have an idea whats good or bad. Total noob.)
- Cut holes in airbox???
-----(This and some other related mods. Some say it makes a difference, some say its just louder. I, for one, have no clue)
- Heated handlebars
-----(This worth it? Easy to do?)

For Me:
- Helmet
- Jacket
- Shoes

While I would like a pie cooker/dvd-player/fridge, I'm a bit worried I may never come home as I'll have all I need.

Just a quick question too, I see loads of parts for the DRZ400, but far less for the 250. Do any parts (bash plate, etc) fit the 250 as well? Thanks guys!

[Transalper]

I like the BnB bashplates. Most shops here will just get one in for you. I have only seen one guy here somewhere making that sort of stuff in NZ but I don't remember who or even if DRZ250 were mentioned.
I went to Dirt Action Services in Saxon St and they got one in for me. Done the same for my CRF230. Might take 3 or 3 weeks going through them though as they collect a few orders to make freight worth while before placing their order with BnB.
BAshplates are bike specific, one for a DRZ400 is unlikely to fit a 250.

If I were you I'd get the Bash Plate and some hand guards for the bike but leave the rest (engine, airbox) alone until you have been using it for a while. Performance mods don't always go to plan and to me the snorkel removal is more annoyingly noisy to the rider than anything else.

Get decent rider protection ASAP.
Boots, Trousers, Jacket, Gloves, Helmet.... all of it !
I'm a believer in All The Gear All The Time.
It has saved my skin in the past when I thought it wouldn't happen to me because I thought I was generally being careful.

Should be quite a bit of ADV riding due to be done soon, we'll post some of it up beforehand so maybe we'll see you out and about.

[buggsubique]

I started off with a DR 250 - sweet bikes. Even kinda regretted (for a split second) going up to the DR-Z 400 cos it seemed bigger, heavier and harder to ride in the tuff stuff at the time. But anyways, great bikes, don't get too swamped with info first up - heaps to take in but main thing mate is just to get out there and ride it. Sure, a bashplate, handguards or whatever, but just be sure to ride it like you stole it, you're gonna love it and it'll give you some of the best riding experiences you're ever gonna have. use it to learn all the ropes and ins / outs of bikes & how they work, fiddle with things on it etc.

It is going to be awesome! welcome aboard.

[warewolf]

- Indicator lights
-----(Current ones are way out. Do any bike lights fit, or have to be special?)

They aren't peculiar to the DR-Z250, if that's what you are asking. The mounting and wiring connectors vary, as do the bulb wattages (and some are for 6V the DR is 12V) so you may have to make them fit, splice the wires etc. The ones I used were made by WFO to suit XR200. Can't remember if I swapped bulbs to match the originals - did it on one of the bikes - if the wattage is significantly different it can play havoc with the flasher unit (way too slow/fast, or no flash at all).

- Maybe play with springs
-----(Got to get used to it first, wouldn't have an idea whats good or bad. Total noob.)

Springs are basically matched to your weight, and are the primary component of the suspension. Whilst there is no real "get used it" in terms of deciding if the springs are good/bad, if you aren't very experienced then bad springs won't matter so much for a while. Google "setting the sag" for info on setting & checking your springs.

[cooneyr]

.....If I were you I'd get the Bash Plate and some hang guards for the bike but leave the rest (engine, airbox) alone until you have been using it for a while. Performance mods don't always go to plan and to me the snorkel removal is more annoyingly noisy to the rider than anything else......

Get decent rider protection ASAP.
Boots, Trousers, Jacket, Gloves, Helmet.... all of it !
I'm a believer in All The Gear All The Time.
It has saved my skin in the past when I thought it wouldn't happen to me because I thought I was generally being careful.

Should be quite a bit of ADV riding due to be done soon, we'll post some of it up beforehand so maybe we'll see you out and about.

I second all of the above. Protect the bike and yourself then go riding. Leave the performance mods and suspension mods till the bike becomes the limiting factor rather than your skills.

I'm hoping the Canty Adv guys get out and about a bit more in the comming months so make sure you come along and have some fun and learn some stuff.

Cheers R

[Transalper]

Oh crap , did I put hang guards.... what the heck are those!!!
I meant Hand Guards, I like Bark Busters but there are cheaper alternatives.
I also prefer ones with alloy bar in them, although there is an argument out there against them.
I like them because they save my leavers. When I drop the bike I generally let go so haven't yet got caught up in them myself (that's the argument).

[meteor]

If you loosen the screws a bit on the perches (the bit that holds the levers onto the handlbars) then the levers will swivel when you have an off rather than bend or break. Always carry some basic tools. Keep your air filter and oil clean and your chain lubed. Performance mods can be cheap but can cause other problems, get used to the bike first. Oh and if off roading it, good boots are a must. Don't skimp on buying quality protective gear. Above all... enjoy. There is a wealth of experience and info in the other members here... tap into it.

[warewolf]

If you loosen the screws a bit on the perches (the bit that holds the levers onto the handlbars) then the levers will swivel when you have an off rather than bend or break.

Teflon tape underneath helps, too, but neither will stop levers breaking.

Metal barkbusters + teflon tape + loose perches + filed/drilled weak point = best option.

[nkcowboy]

Thanks again for the help guys!

Did biggest drive so far today....to get a service! Want to start off on the right foot, and this made me feel sure all is well and I'm ready to really hit the road/dirt/hopefully not trees.

Transalper:
I've gone and bought a B&B from Aus. Looking forward to armouring up and will feel a bit safer then! Also, looking at hand guards, everyone seems to recommend them. I reckon the full wrap around ones would be best, what other options are there than BarkBusters (seem to be most common)? TradeMe best place for these?

buggsubique:
Thanks for the welcome! Glad to see someone else who started on my bike (well, not my bike specifically).

warewolf:
Thanks for info on the lights. I've bought some shorter generic ones (the standard ones are HUGE, way out there). Should do the job nicely. Win't be messing with springs just yet, but when I get a feel I'll see.

cooneyr:
I'll have to see about getting in touch with Canty adv guys and any groups about rides, although I'll be pretty useless off-road for a while yet. Start with the easy (READ: Flat) stuff first.

meteor:
thanks for all the tips! A lot of people have told me standard bars bend/break pretty easy. Seems a bit worrying to think that to break them I must be in a fairly big crash (off road lets hope), but I guess not? Worth investing in bigger/better bars? Does loosening the bar ever cause it to slip? I guess not?


I'm going out tomorrow to get proper helmet, jacket, gloves, etc. I'd like my first meeting with the ground to be friendly as possible.

One quick question to anyone who knows about DRz250s...

I've seen on ThumperTalk that you can get a plate that covers the stator cover (if that makes sense) as this is Mg and tends to break (or can at least). Several DRZ250's I looked at before buying had this specifcally damaged. However, they only have it for the more popular DRZ400s, and I was just wondering if this might, with some modding, fit 250s? My guess is not?

Here on Thumpertalk

I'm probably trying to protect my bike way more than I need, but thats just me.

[cooneyr]

Emgo brand bark busters are available in lots of shops (Budget have them I think). Another option is Moose handguards that Superior sell. I've got Moose ones and they have taken a few falls (I've never had a broken leaver). The plastic shields are quite soft so they don't stretch/crack.

Cheers R

[Transalper]

...
Transalper:
I've gone and bought a B&B from Aus. Looking forward to armouring up and will feel a bit safer then! Also, looking at hand guards, everyone seems to recommend them. I reckon the full wrap around ones would be best, what other options are there than BarkBusters (seem to be most common)? TradeMe best place for these?

Cooneyr has just answered that.
Some may require a little persuasion to fit.

...
meteor:
thanks for all the tips! A lot of people have told me standard bars bend/break pretty easy. Seems a bit worrying to think that to break them I must be in a fairly big crash (off road lets hope), but I guess not? Worth investing in bigger/better bars? Does loosening the bar ever cause it to slip? I guess not?....

I may have mis-interpreted what you were thinking but just in case... Do not loosen the handle bar mount. The bit you can loosen is only the clamps that hold the leavers on the handlebars, not the clamps that hold the handlebars to the bike. The handle bars shouldn't be able to move but the leavers can be allowed to rotate on the handlebar.
You might bend the original bars in a fall, it might not take much effort either, just a low speed fall may do it, depends how the bike lands. I don't consider stronger handlebars a priority. I do like them though and over a year or so have upgraded all mine with alloy bars. Got tapers (fatter middle, normal diameter ends) on the 650 and regular alloys on the CRF230. Tapers require new clamps so that's another extra cost in those.
Some people have concerns about stronger bars breaking legs in a big crash where your leg might only bend the old bars as you go through them. I think you'd have to be very unlucky for that to happen, but in saying that, cooneyr did bend his bars with his leg in once crash a few years back so it may be possible a stronger bar would have left him in plaster. Was a big crash into a bank that one.

[cooneyr]

....Some people have concerns about stronger bars breaking legs in a big crash where your leg might only bend the old bars as you go through them. I think you'd have to be very unlucky for that to happen, but in saying that, cooneyr did bend his bars with his leg in once crash a few years back so it may be possible a stronger bar would have left him in plaster. Was a big crash into a bank that one.

I think my crash was a little on the unusual side but I'm sure I would have had a broken leg, or would have done a long more damage to the bike, as well as a broken neck if I had alloy bars on. I stuck steel bars back on it after the crash, bent them in a couple of months and thought bugger it I'll just stick alloy bars on. I guess some people never learn but the alloy bars have been on two bikes now with some reasonable crashes and never bent. I have Rental normal diameter alloy bars.

I'd put alloy bars on pretty low on the priority list, the steel ones are fine till they bend.

Cheers R

[warewolf]

Two reasons to upgrade your bars before you destroy them:

1. OEM bars can have captive nuts in the ends to mount the bar end weights. You'll have to remove or otherwise deal to them before you can mount your hand guards in the same spot.
2. After-market alloy bars are much nicer to ride with, absorbing more vibes and flexing for comfort.
3. You can replace the OEM bars when you sell the bike, taking the hand guards and nice alloy bars to your next bike.

That's three, so sue me!

OEM bars are usually really crappy, and can get bent from the bike falling off the stand and similar low-speed low-impact falls. Not much, but enough to notice. A few falls, a few slight bends, aaarrghh. Even half-decent alloy bars don't. Low speed falls are quite common with adventure bikes.

When it comes to damaging yourself on the bars in a crash, there are times when you are just damn unlucky. Strong alloy fat bars are OEM on KTMs and half the jap enduro/mx bikes these days, that wouldn't happen if they were a liability.

[Transalper]

..... Low speed falls are quite common with adventure bikes....

common and expected that's half the fun, especially when it's ya mates bike you're helping to pick up. and not your own