Correct, although the clutch wasn't slipping, everything else was in spec so replacing them is more insurance than improvement at this stage. Hopefully I have done enough dressing up to eliminate the clutch plates binding!Originally Posted by MSTRS
Rasta Ratskins
Correct, although the clutch wasn't slipping, everything else was in spec so replacing them is more insurance than improvement at this stage. Hopefully I have done enough dressing up to eliminate the clutch plates binding!
Only a Rat can win a Rat Race!
Whip it, whip it good!
Of course you have! Look, it cant be any worse. The blue lovely is an old lady with a few miles under her belt. As you pointed out, everything is "worn". I am not interested in spending mountains of money on this lovely bike, just making her rideable for me, though spending time attempting to improve at small cost is right up my alley. Blowing oil was not rideable, the clutch was a pain in the arse. Thankfully the oil issue was the gasket that covered the clutch, and you are a bloody gem!
Whip it, whip it good!
Ok, so new clutch springs are ex Aussie, but reasonably priced all the same, the oil filter is a given stocked item. Should have the bits mid week-ish, from there to Laava's abode, when it fits, and then look out world, the blue lovely RETURNS!
In the riders seat
Posted with Ricks Permission, very detailed walkthrough on getting correct clutch adjustment
Clutch Adjustment & Clutch Cable Replacement made simple.
Special to: XJBikes.com
Copyright: November 23, 2006
All Rights Reserved.
By: Rick Massey
Here's my submission to our up-coming Tech Section. There's nothing worse than grinding a pound of gears trying to get the bike into first gear, fighting with the gear change pedal to get into Neutral, having the bike do the "Red Light Creep" and missing a shift. This article will cure those symptoms for you.
Eventually, you'll need to replace the Clutch Cable; too. I have done my best to provide a step-by-step procedure that even the most inexperienced Member should be able to understand and follow when the time comes to swap-out a Clutch Cable.
Following Repair Manual format; here's everything you need to know ... to replace the whole Clutch Cable or simply Adjust your bike's Clutch for smooth riding or Track Day!
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Cable Replacement:
Note the way that the old cable is routed, from the Clutch Lever Perch, around the front, along the frame, through guides, over or under parts, down along the frame, to the mounting point on the Engine Case, below the Carb's, at the rear of the Clutch Case.
(Make notes, a drawing, or stick tape with arrows pointing the way, if you can't remember how it needs to go.)
Down at the Engine Case:
Bend the tab on the Clutch Throw-Out Lever Mount to allow the Lead "Bullet" Cable End, to be removed and release the cable from the Throw-Out Lever's attachment point.
I use a big Crescent Wrench. Push DOWN on the wrench lifting the Throw-Out Lever and maneuver the Cable End Bullet out of its holding bracket. Pad the jaws of the wrench (or any tool you use) with paper towels.
After detaching the Bullet, relax the wrench pressure allowing the Throw-Out Lever to retract. Clean and lube the pivot point of the cable attachment bracket.
At the Cable's End:
Remove the hard rubber Dust Seal. Un-screw it and slide it to the end of the cable along with the nuts and washers collected as the Cable is removed.
With fresh brake fluid or Armoral, lube the Dust Seal for withdrawing the rubber dust seal off the end of the cable, over the Bullet.
Loosen and remove the Lower Hex Locking Nut and Washer (if present).
Push the threaded Adjusting Barrel through the top of the Mount if the Adjusting Barrel does not come loose from the bracket. The barrel might slide right out from the Mount. Other's may need to be withdrawn. Either way; undo the Adjusting Barrel from the Mounting Bracket.
At the Clutch Lever Perch:
Remove the Hex nut on the end of the Clutch Lever Pivot Pin.
Remove the Pivot Pin bolt.
Slide-out the Clutch Lever from the Perch.
Remove the Cable End and Bullet > (or any remains of a broken cable) < from the Clutch Lever.
Line-up the Cable with Slot on the Lever allowing for the removal of the Cable End from the Clutch Lever. Slide the Bullet UP and out of the "Bullet Hole" on the Lever.
Clean-out the channeling and the Pivot Port for the lead Bullet. Put a dab of Waterproof Grease in the "Bullet Hole" and set the Lever aside.
Clean the Knurl Cable End Adjuster and its Locking Ring.
Add NeverSeize to the Knurl's threads.
Place a dab of NeverSeize in the threaded hole for the Knurl on the Perch.
Place the Knurl, with its Locking Ring all the way on, into the Perch's threaded opening.
Spread the NeverSeize along the Perch's inside threads by running The Knurl > IN, to the end and back OUT; several times. Add additional NeverSeize, if needed, to insure the Knurl Adjuster moves freely, without binding. "Exercise" this vital Clutch adjustment mechanism until it is able to move with precision. The Smooth and precise adjustment of this feature is absolutely necessary to properly and precisely adjust the Clutch.
Make sure the Locking Ring is on tight, at the end.
Bottom the Knurl into the Perch, against the Lock Ring.
Turn Knurl OUT 3-1/2 Turns. (Exercise the Knurl IN and OUT, in this particular area, until it adjusts velvety smooth, with no binding or resistance.)
The Cable:
Out with old and in with the new. Follow your notes or taped-on arrows.
Thread the end which attaches to the Clutch Perch > up through the bike < Starting at the Case Mount and ending at the Clutch Lever Perch.
At the Clutch Perch:
Thread the Cable through the > lined-up slots < of the Perch, Knurl and Locking Collar.
Put the lead barrel "Bullet" into the Clutch Lever "Bullet Hole" and mount the Clutch Lever, the Clutch Lever Pivot Pin and tighten Hex nut.
Make a "Final adjustment check" on the Knurl and Locking Collar. Run the Knurl OUT 3-1/2 turns -- positioning the slot > Inboard < to prevent the Cable from escaping during the remainder of the replacement and adjusting.
Critical Proceedure:
Use the Knurl's "Thumb Wheel" Locking Collar and LOCK the KNURL tightly in place, 3-1/2 Turns OUT. Place the Cable Sheath's End-Fitting FIRMLY into it's seat at the open end on the Knurl.
SECURE the sheath against escaping from the Knurl's seat with a strip of Vinyl electrical tape until all Cable and Clutch adjusting is complete.
Down at the Case:
(Mod's for Performance and Precision Adjustment of Clutch include some additional hardware items.)
Place a Hex nut, a Stainless Steel washer and a Nylon washer on to the Threaded Clutch Cable Adjustment end. (Nut, Stainless washer, Nylon washer.)
Slide ... or slip-in from the top ... the Threaded Adjustment End into the Clutch Cable Holding and adjustment mounting bracket. Secure the bottom of the Threaded Adjuster with additional hardware items:
Place a Nylon washer on first.
Place a Stainless Steel washer on next.
Place the Hex nut on the Adjuster; third. (Substitute NyLoc Hex nut for stock nut.)
Rubber Dust Shield; last.
Critical Procedure:
While holding the Threaded Adjustment End tight into the mounting bracket; tighten the Lower Hex nut, with sufficient force, until BOTH Nylon washers "Crush" and mould themselves to, and around, the top and bottom edges of the holding bracket.
[Use standard, thin, stainless washers. Use Nylon washers that are "Soft", about as thick as a Nickel or slightly thicker. The Nylon washers are > supposed to < get Crushed and become non-slip fasteners ... holding the Threaded Barrel of the Clutch Cable, firmly, in the same place, while final installation and adjustments are carried out. Also, to allow fast and accurate adjustments of the upper and lower hex nuts should future cable adjustments be necessary.]
With the Threaded Adjuster tightened in place; place the Lead Bullet End of the Cable into the Cable Attachment Pivot at the end of the Throw-out arm. Push the arm UP, as before, using a proper tool, and capture the Bullet in the pivot attachment devise. Don't fold-over the tab until ALL the Clutch Adjusting is complete.
Release tension on the Throw-out Lever.
Inspect and insure that the Bullet end is firmly seated in its holding slot.
Now, check the Throw-out lever for Cable Slack and Throw-out Lever End Play.
Remove all Slack and End Play.
If the Cable is slack and the Throw-out lever has loose End Play ... LOOSEN the LOWER Hex nut on the Threaded Cable End Adjuster and TIGHTEN the UPPER Hex nut > Holding the Barrel from rotating by holding the Fixed Hex Flats atop the barrel, just above the locking Hex nut on the Threaded Adjuster ... until ALL the SLACK in the CABLE is REMOVED and Throw-out Lever End Play is reduced to Zero Lash.
ADJUSTING THE CLUTCH:
Continue adjusting the Threaded Adjustment End of the Clutch Cable until you remove ALL the Slack in the Cable and the Throw-out Lever is > "On the edge" of ZERO LASH. NO End Play." Use finger pressure on the exposed cable to "Feel" the adjusting process.
You need to adjust the Throw-out arm to ZERO Lash. Such that adjusting the Hex nuts on the Cable's Threaded Adjustment by only one or two flats will provide just a hint of LASH. Adjust the Cable at the Lower Cable Mounting Bracket for ZERO Lash at the Throw-out Lever.
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
** [ You need the whole throw-out on these XJ Clutches. It is not unusual for the adjustment to be complicated by the improper replacement of the Clutch Throw-out Arm, after any work, which might have made removing it convenient or necessary. If you are not getting enough Clutch throw-out; it might be necessary to reposition the Throw-out LEVER a notch or two Counterclockwise on the splines of the Clutch Throw-out ROD.
Remove the Throw-out Lever from the splined end of the Throw-out ROD. Turn the ROD Clockwise until its motion stops upon contact at the clutch.
Maintain contact at the Clutch by holding the ROD fully Clockwise and reposition the Throw-out LEVER back on the spines to where it's new position removes cable slack.
Make the necessary adjustments to all the lower components and adjustment features until you get ZERO Lash at rest ... and complete movement of the ROD Clockwise when the Clutch Lever is pulled.] **
The Clutch is preliminarily adjusted. Although, it very well might be Precisely adjusted.
Test ride and observe for the ease of shifting, finding Neutral, and NOT bucking or jumping into gear.
Further fine-tuning of the Clutch Adjustment is done by adjusting the Knurl, on the Clutch Perch, IN or OUT as needed.
The ability to tweak the adjustment of your Clutch using the Knurl ... allows you maintain Perfect Adjustment at all times.
This feature also allows you to make immediate adjustments if heat becomes a factor in the Adjustment.
When the fine-tuning and adjusting is done ... LOCK the adjustment with the Knurl Locking Ring. Lock it up TIGHT. Most clutch problems are a result of the Knurl vibrating and loosing it's position.
Good job adjusting that Clutch.
Like a new bike ... ain't it???
_________________
Rick Massey
Moderator - Tech Writer
"If you can make black marks on a straight from the time you turn out of a corner until the braking point of the next turn, then you have enough power."
Rasta Ratskins
So this afternoon I thought I would remove the carbs and clean them as I will do a carb sync when going again. It therefore made sense to clean or at least check! So I battled away with battery boxes and air filters to get the whole lot out as in the first photo.
Then I cracked open the carbs and OMFG I have never seen so much crap in carbs before! And it was in all of them equally. In the 2nd photo you can see a rusty sludge, this is what was left AFTER I drained the bowls! It had settled into a hard pill shaped bit in the bottom where the main jet sucks from, but all flushed out when I put some carby cleaner over it. Had to use a whole can tho! The mixture adjustments were all way out of adjustment too, 1 was 5 turns out and another was 4. They should be the usual 2-2 1/2. One was completely seized and I had to drill it out, so we will need to replace it but I will get one of the local shops to source for me.
Remember Anne, when you arrived and I started the bike and revved it and said it sounded alright? How ironic, when there was so much wrong with it! Still it will be good to have it running properly! Looks like the plugs are recent too, did you replace them? So it should be considerably improved when going again, perhaps not overwhelming but some sort of whelming should be in order!
Also, when I took out the battery, the terminals were only just nipped up and the battery acid level is at the bottom of the red sticker in the last pic. Should be at the top! I will top it up and charge it but to be honest, it may have a shortened life from now on, they don't like being like that much!
So that is todays report on the Blue Lovely, hopefully I can sort out what I need up here and we will press on as planned!
Only a Rat can win a Rat Race!
Forum whore
"Extreme Makeover" - biker style !
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
Whip it, whip it good!
What can I say apart from thank you!
I am a bit over whelmed to be honest. What is with that orangey shit that is all through the blue lovely's innards? Perhaps I should call her the orange lovely from now on?
I am so looking forward to being properlywhelmed next time I ride my blue lovely. Far out!
The plugs were replaced very recently ago in an attempt to overcome the missing, there was actually hope that new plugs had sorted the problem. My attempts to improve the fuel supply helped too, but wow! I cant wait to see what the Laava magic has achieved.
Friggen battery! Want to share what a mission it is to get to?
I need a moment here, thanks.
In the riders seat
http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=1961.html
Is a detailed carb clean walkthrough by the same guy who did the clutch one and a useful reference, there's a couple of areas on those carbs which the carb clean quite often doesn't shift and has to be dug out
I'm about to do the same shortly
I can't remember from the other thread but did you take the tap out of the tank and check the screen on that as well?
"If you can make black marks on a straight from the time you turn out of a corner until the braking point of the next turn, then you have enough power."
Whip it, whip it good!
No, I did not do the screen in the tap, I had just refuelled when I came home, and was hunting around for somewhere big enough to dump the gas. Did not find one. The tank is well down at the moment. Dont you feel like a total shit asking if someone else would mind doing that for you?
I would be there in a flash but Warkworth is not wonderfully close to the abode of Laava, well not close enough to pop over of an evening anyway.
Rasta Ratskins
I think it is pumpkin! There was lots of it too! Have you cleaned the tank? If not, it might be worth cleaning it out and doing a "tank slosh" which is a good way of having it as good as new withy a chemical type coating inside.
Only a Rat can win a Rat Race!
Whip it, whip it good!
I may or may not have been sloshed a bit in my time, but I can safely say the blue lovely has never been sloshed in her life!
Rasta Ratskins
Maybe she needs a good night out on the tiles then?
Only a Rat can win a Rat Race!
In the riders seat
The Merkins seem to favour muriatic acid for cleaning the inside of the tank th
"If you can make black marks on a straight from the time you turn out of a corner until the braking point of the next turn, then you have enough power."
The instructions are simple...
Ha!! I knew that all was not right inside those go-juice-delivery-systems...see?
While it was here, I drained the bowls to see if there was any loose crud, but none was evident. Such a mission to remove (as you now know) that being the only way to be sure. Did put new plugs in, and replaced the chain, which was almost as flexible sideways.
Last edited by MSTRS; 17th September 2009 at 09:20.
Do you realise how many holes there could be if people would just take the time to take the dirt out of them?
Forum whore
Mmmm... I thought getting tanked was the same as getting sloshed, but I see one can now slosh your tank..?
You don't get to be an old dog without learning a few tricks.
Shorai Powersports batteries are very trick!
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