Tyre choice for adventure riding? (Mixing road and off-road)

**NordieBoy** · 26th August 2010, 15:26

And if it's dry then Shinko 705's.

**Padmei** · 27th August 2010, 16:38

Originally Posted by dino3310

or E-07s unless the tracks have had heavy rain then the E-09 would be better, but you would get a longer road life out of the 07

Agreed. When newish the 07s have as much grip as the chunkier 09's they last for a very long time. I have been running dunlop 606s on the front which are grippy & aggressive & give a long life & E07's on the back. This is a popular choice.

**dino3310** · 27th August 2010, 18:13

like the Doctor sez: put something you trust on the front and a round black rubber thing on the back

**BMCruiser** · 1st September 2010, 20:06

I've decided to buy a pair of Heidenau K60's for my F650GS Apparently they can be run with or without tubes. What are your thoughts about the pros and cons of going with tubes ?

Maybe less likely to puncture vs extra cost and weight ? Or is there more to it than that ?

My intention is adventure riding with a probable split of about 40% seal, 40% gravel and 20% off-road.

**dino3310** · 1st September 2010, 20:38

NZKTM had them on the DRBIG he should be able to answer that one

**Transalper** · 1st September 2010, 21:53

My 2000 F650GS had spoked wheels so needed tubes no matter what tyre I put on when I owned it.
My current ride has spoked rims too so same story.
Most the bigger BMWs spoked rims have the spokes outside the tyre area so use tubeless.

I understand that there can be a bead issue with mismatching tubeless and tubed tyres to their respective rims. I guess the bead won't be an issue with a universally fitting tyre as you say the tyre you're interested in is, but if you have spokes that go to the inside of the well area on the rim then you will probably still need to use tubes inside the tyre.

**BMCruiser** · 1st September 2010, 22:25

Thanks Transalper, I hadn't thought about the spokes issue. It's pretty obvious really that a standard spoked wheel won't hold air without a tube. I should have realised that

My cruiser has external spokes so it can run tubeless but the GS has centre mounted spokes so I will need tubes.

**RideLife** · 2nd September 2010, 09:17

Originally Posted by BMCruiser

What are your thoughts about the pros and cons of going with tubes ?
Maybe less likely to puncture vs extra cost and weight ? Or is there more to it than that ?

Thanks for trying the Heidenau's BMC.
I look forward to a open and honest review on them later in the year.

Just to give my thoughts on tube or tubeless. In my limited experience, I would think a tubed tyre is more likely to get puncture than tubeless. Any nail / screw that gets threw the tread, and penetrates the inner carcass of the tyre would then puncture the tube, allowing a loss of pressure out through the wire spoke joints.
But on the tubeless, that same nail would often seal itself against the rubber where it penetrates, allowing pressure to be retained, at least till you get home and notice it.

The other issue, (which doesn't affect you guys as much), is the heating up of the tyre on tarmac. Having a tube in would I think allow your tyre to heat up quicker, as the tube insulates the tyre somewhat from the air inside it. That air in the tube takes longer to heat as it's a slower process of transference from the tyre to the air in the tube. So in one lap of the race track (for those of us without tyre warmers.......
Ar, I've lost you there now haven't I ?!

Just my thoughts.
Others with experience can tell me if I'm wrong.

Racey.

**Box'a'bits** · 2nd September 2010, 17:24

You're wrong

If you are riding mostly on the road or good gravel then I agree with most of what you have written. But you are dealing with adventure bike here, not road race bikes. Most adventure bikes run spoked wheels which precludes tubeless (unless you run exotic tubliss systems, or have the BMW system).

Then there is a question of pressures. As soon as conditions deteriorate its great to be able to drop pressures, to get more grip. Tubeless tyres have limitations in terms of how much you can drop the pressures to. Tube type tyres can go much lower & allow you to option of running rim locks, to stop the tyre spinning. However as a balance, tube type tyres can have issues with pinch flats where they are running low pressures in (primarily) rocky terrain.

Tubeless tyres can be more problematic to repair in rough conditions. Usually those types of issues are because of cuts or slashes to the tyre. Those punctures cannot always be repaired with the plugs, and the tyres aen't so easy to remove.

Tube type rims are easier to replace or repair. Try repairing a tubeless BMW spoked wheel. Not many wheel builders will touch them..

**RideLife** · 2nd September 2010, 17:43

Originally Posted by RideLife

Others with experience can tell me if I'm wrong.

... and why!

**warewolf** · 2nd September 2010, 21:43

Most manufacturers recommended downgrading the speed rating by one when tubeless tyres are fitted with tubes. Said to be due to increased heat build-up from the tube rubbing against the inside of the tyre - tubeless tyres are often ridged internally, unlike tube-type tyres.

For field repair, a tube-type rim, tyre & tube wins hands down.