What about if the surface isn't nice & even at a molecular level? Wouldn't the con-ag mix approach be more appropriate?
In life as in dance Grace glides on blistered feet
Enough of this Molly kule stuff stuff its doing my head in. DR650. Air cooled single banger, run what spec oil the manufacturer suggests and service when its supposed to be done.
Don't buy low spec oil!!!!
KTM oil turning black (due to combustion blow by?) Why do gearbox and diff oils turn black then?
Beemer oil turns black after 1000kms, oil change at 10,000
KTM turns black after 300kms, oil change at 3000
Hang about thats 10% of the service interval for both
The reason for changing oil is because it becomes contaminated and also the additives break down (friction modifiers, polymers etc). Mineral oil itself never breaks down, thats why it can be recycled. No that don't mean you can just change the filter and keep going (remember the additives?)
Biggest bearing in an engine is called a piston. the rings seal against the bore and piston so when combustion occurs they can push the piston down and make the wheels go round which is after all what we want to happen. Good oil keeps it going up and down longer![]()
Just to throw a spanner in the works.....
Wet clutches - how does that effect the whole slippery deal?
You want a clutch to grip - even when smothered in oil, so wouldnt the rugby ball, soccer ball, cricket bat be better?...
I dont know the answer, but would like how that works out with fully synth as opposed to mineral or semi synth....
Run what you are mentally comfortable with. It's the only answer. No ones right or wrong.
with my 82DR as soon as it sniffed the synthetic stuff the clutch would start slipping,
i had the shop do some work on it (not clutch related) they put some this new stuff in saying it was the best thing for it...... shit i had to run and flush it 3 times to get me focking clutch back.
i guess modern oils for modern bikes....
different strokes for different folks
'Good things come to those who wait'
Bollocks, get of your arse and go get it
Can someone please remind me what the deal is with glazing bores and synth oil.
Never heard of it happening with dino.
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Plenty of modern bike engines are not loaded up regularly. They make lots of power easily so just don't get subjected to high combustion pressures and the bores glaze. The problem is that synthetics are too good at lubrication, as you are repeatedly saying.
At least, according to lots of pro mechanics I've spoken with and say its quite a common problem.
Cheers,
Colin
Originally Posted by Steve McQueen
Glazed bores.
A piston is basically a device to block compression when an engine fires, and push exhaust out and help suck in gasses.
The compression rings are seals to make the pistons operation more efficient, they seal on the outside of the ring and the bottom of the piston groove. Any seal prefers the smoothest running surface it can get to make the seal more efficient e.g. the bore surface and the ring surface.
Can someone tell me why a glazed bore is bad, when (I presume) by glazed bore you guys mean a very smooth bore.
I mentioned vegetables once, but I think I got away with it...........
One of the piston rings jobs (oil Ring) is to scrape the oil from the bore on the down stroke. If the bore is "glazed" the oil can smear past the oil ring resulting in high oil consumption. Two strokes don't have an oil ring as this is beneficial in their case (not the glazed bore tho).
Yea naa. A modern cx3 oil ring has virtually no tension and does not scrape, but relys on creating a high pressure zone under the ring and by way of cutouts/ grooves or (old school) holes, makes any oil go to the nearest low pressure zone and drip back into the crankcase.
Smooth is our friend.
2 strokes don't need oil rings because it don't matter as the oil is in the fuel and is the same mix as what goes into the squish area. (Think thats what you said)
I mentioned vegetables once, but I think I got away with it...........
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