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Thread: The good oil

  1. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by Quasievil View Post
    Think of it like this

    (god here I go)

    think of the two surfaces in your engine, if there was no oll they would basically fuse and blow up right, so what ya do is seperate the two surfaces with an oil...........of course!
    okay
    so think of two oils one a mineral or semi syn basestock and the other a full synthetic

    now

    one oil has molecules made up of (lets me imaginative for the purposes of illustrating the point ok) variable sizes marbles, a beach ball a rugby ball and a few tennis balls (use your imagination now) and a few cricket bats and tennis rackets.

    this is mineral

    now think of

    a nice perfectly matching row of exactly the same sized marbles

    this is synthetic

    ok

    now think of those two surfaces held apart by an oil , now answer this question

    which is more efficient ??

    the second one the even sized marbles right..............this is Synthetic.

    and the bennifits?

    less friction, more power, less fuel used, better start up lubrication..........the list goes on.

    Now what do you want to use in your engine?

    synthetic or Mineral/semi

    I use synthetic, all my road bikes and my KTM motard, all mint ,never an engine issue even with hard racing.

    Synthetics FTW
    THAT ! is the best most simple explanation I have heard/read on this oil thread thing, Ju make it up y'self ?

    And..... how would that apply to an air/oil cooled single of advanced years

  2. #77
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    26th January 2008 - 07:37
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    What about if the surface isn't nice & even at a molecular level? Wouldn't the con-ag mix approach be more appropriate?
    In life as in dance Grace glides on blistered feet

  3. #78
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    15th September 2008 - 16:53
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    Enough of this Molly kule stuff stuff its doing my head in. DR650. Air cooled single banger, run what spec oil the manufacturer suggests and service when its supposed to be done.
    Don't buy low spec oil!!!!
    KTM oil turning black (due to combustion blow by?) Why do gearbox and diff oils turn black then?
    Beemer oil turns black after 1000kms, oil change at 10,000
    KTM turns black after 300kms, oil change at 3000
    Hang about thats 10% of the service interval for both

    The reason for changing oil is because it becomes contaminated and also the additives break down (friction modifiers, polymers etc). Mineral oil itself never breaks down, thats why it can be recycled. No that don't mean you can just change the filter and keep going (remember the additives?)

    Biggest bearing in an engine is called a piston. the rings seal against the bore and piston so when combustion occurs they can push the piston down and make the wheels go round which is after all what we want to happen. Good oil keeps it going up and down longer

  4. #79
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    6th June 2009 - 19:36
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    Just to throw a spanner in the works.....

    Wet clutches - how does that effect the whole slippery deal?

    You want a clutch to grip - even when smothered in oil, so wouldnt the rugby ball, soccer ball, cricket bat be better?...

    I dont know the answer, but would like how that works out with fully synth as opposed to mineral or semi synth....

  5. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by gav24 View Post
    Just to throw a spanner in the works.....

    Wet clutches - how does that effect the whole slippery deal?

    You want a clutch to grip - even when smothered in oil, so wouldnt the rugby ball, soccer ball, cricket bat be better?...

    I dont know the answer, but would like how that works out with fully synth as opposed to mineral or semi synth....

    I dont reckon you could fit a cricket bat in the filler hole
    In life as in dance Grace glides on blistered feet

  6. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by Padmei View Post
    I dont reckon you could fit a cricket bat in the filler hole
    Might be able to if I cut it into thirds, put the bike on its side, and added them to the engine before putting the clutch cover back on.

    ... Wonder if a tennis ball would fit in place of the oil filter as well

  7. #82
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    Run what you are mentally comfortable with. It's the only answer. No ones right or wrong.

  8. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by gav24 View Post
    Just to throw a spanner in the works.....

    Wet clutches - how does that effect the whole slippery deal?

    You want a clutch to grip - even when smothered in oil, so wouldnt the rugby ball, soccer ball, cricket bat be better?...

    I dont know the answer, but would like how that works out with fully synth as opposed to mineral or semi synth....
    with my 82DR as soon as it sniffed the synthetic stuff the clutch would start slipping,
    i had the shop do some work on it (not clutch related) they put some this new stuff in saying it was the best thing for it...... shit i had to run and flush it 3 times to get me focking clutch back.
    i guess modern oils for modern bikes....
    different strokes for different folks
    'Good things come to those who wait'
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  9. #84
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    31st August 2008 - 20:27
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    Synthetic makes me gaskets leak. Much more betterer with dino.
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  10. #85
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    20th November 2005 - 22:24
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    Can someone please remind me what the deal is with glazing bores and synth oil.
    Never heard of it happening with dino.
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  11. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by Transalper View Post
    Can someone please remind me what the deal is with glazing bores and synth oil.
    Never heard of it happening with dino.
    Run it in gently with synth and it stuffed.
    Too slippery.

    Run it in aggressively with dino and change it out for synth after a couple of hundred kms and it's sweet.

  12. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by Quasievil View Post
    What engine isn't loaded up regularly, having a "regular loading" doesn't modify the oils performance or attributes, it may offer variance to the oil temperature, which a synthetic can handle better than another oil type.
    the most grueling part of the engines routine is start up, this is where synthetics offer definite advantages over semis and minerals.
    Out of any oil Synthetics enable the rings to perform better than other tyes of oil, also they offer the rest of the engine significant benefits (a good synthetic anyway)
    Plenty of modern bike engines are not loaded up regularly. They make lots of power easily so just don't get subjected to high combustion pressures and the bores glaze. The problem is that synthetics are too good at lubrication, as you are repeatedly saying.

    At least, according to lots of pro mechanics I've spoken with and say its quite a common problem.
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  13. #88
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    27th September 2008 - 18:14
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    Another spanner in the works.

    Glazed bores.

    A piston is basically a device to block compression when an engine fires, and push exhaust out and help suck in gasses.
    The compression rings are seals to make the pistons operation more efficient, they seal on the outside of the ring and the bottom of the piston groove. Any seal prefers the smoothest running surface it can get to make the seal more efficient e.g. the bore surface and the ring surface.
    Can someone tell me why a glazed bore is bad, when (I presume) by glazed bore you guys mean a very smooth bore.
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  14. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by Woodman View Post
    Glazed bores.

    A piston is basically a device to block compression when an engine fires, and push exhaust out and help suck in gasses.
    The compression rings are seals to make the pistons operation more efficient, they seal on the outside of the ring and the bottom of the piston groove. Any seal prefers the smoothest running surface it can get to make the seal more efficient e.g. the bore surface and the ring surface.
    Can someone tell me why a glazed bore is bad, when (I presume) by glazed bore you guys mean a very smooth bore.
    One of the piston rings jobs (oil Ring) is to scrape the oil from the bore on the down stroke. If the bore is "glazed" the oil can smear past the oil ring resulting in high oil consumption. Two strokes don't have an oil ring as this is beneficial in their case (not the glazed bore tho).

  15. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by Taz View Post
    One of the piston rings jobs (oil Ring) is to scrape the oil from the bore on the down stroke. If the bore is "glazed" the oil can smear past the oil ring resulting in high oil consumption. Two strokes don't have an oil ring as this is beneficial in their case (not the glazed bore tho).
    Yea naa. A modern cx3 oil ring has virtually no tension and does not scrape, but relys on creating a high pressure zone under the ring and by way of cutouts/ grooves or (old school) holes, makes any oil go to the nearest low pressure zone and drip back into the crankcase.
    Smooth is our friend.

    2 strokes don't need oil rings because it don't matter as the oil is in the fuel and is the same mix as what goes into the squish area. (Think thats what you said)
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