Eddieb's DR build thread.

[warewolf]

95 burns slower, that's one of the ways it increases knock resistance (same effect as retarding the ignition). You may find that a bike built for 91 prefers the faster burning fuel at lower speeds, probably because it has the timing set for it.

Dunno 'bout your non-DR, my non-DR runs 11.5:1 compression ratio and demands 95. The DR is only 9.5:1 or something, a shitload less.

My Triumph had 10.6:1 CR and was spec'd for 95 RON. It'd run like pigs arse on 91, bl00dy appalling. Later, even with high-comp pistons and a head job pushing the CR to nearly 14:1, there wasn't really any difference between 95 and 98. But it did have wicked wild cams in it: high lift, long duration and lots of overlap. So the effective dynamic CR was less than the mathematical 14. I ran it on 98 whenever I could "just in case", but I never ever noticed or measured any difference.

[bart]

be careful with cars on 91 bart, my old Focuses only ran on 95 cos they had a 12.5 to 1 compression ratio. If you run these sort of motors on 91 the knock sensors take over and retard things to buggery.

I think it depends on the vehicle. I've had a number of 4 cylinder and V8's that just wouldn't handle 91. They start pinking and missing and running like a bag of arseholes. The Territory (xr6 motor) seems to be fine. It's probably tuned to that ethanol crap they use in Aus.

As for the DR....I can't say I've noticed any difference in power between 91, 95, or 98. I think it's just the economy that changes.

A workmate of mine has a 325kw turbo XR6 that's tuned to 98. When the local BP changed back to 95, he had to travel about 60km to the next BP just to fuel up. That seems crazy to me, but that's the price you pay for horsepower.

[dino3310]

two stroke, 91, 95, 98, the XRs takes it all
what happened to the DR build thread

[JATZ]

Following extensive reearch on fuel, and octane rating with the DR 750, DR350, DR250 and Tenere I have come to the conclusion that........

Any old shit will do so long as it gets you home

But Werewolf was right about the Triumph,, it did run best on 95

[Eddieb]

Good analysis Eddie, if a little convoluted. Fuel comparison is simply km between fills, L to fill, $ to fill; yields L/100km and $/100km. Tank size doesn't matter.

Agreed with the tank size in the bigger picture, including it in this thread gives a point of reference that most DR riders on here can immediately relate to.

As for the DR....I can't say I've noticed any difference in power between 91, 95, or 98. I think it's just the economy that changes.

I've just put a tank of 95 in the 520i and the difference has surprised me. The difference in smoothness and mid range response running 95 is considerable. I haven't done enough km's to comment on any difference in economy in the car yet.

two stroke, 91, 95, 98, the XRs takes it all
what happened to the DR build thread

Normal service was supposed to resume today but didn't happen. Hopefully tomorrow. I've got an oil and filter, bashplate, 2 tyres and an FCR carb still to go on. The FCR I still need to file down some edges on the intake before it's ready to fit

[bart]

I've just put a tank of 95 in the 520i and the difference has surprised me. The difference in smoothness and mid range response running 95 is considerable. I haven't done enough km's to comment on any difference in economy in the car yet.

Old beemers hate 91 also. Well, my 325i did anyway.

[marks]

my 325i did anyway.

poofter 

[bart]

poofter 

...

What about those DR's anyway....

[Box'a'bits]

Old beemers hate 91 also. Well, my 325i did anyway.

Nah....they don't. Just about run on weasel piss. Unless there's an RS in their alphabet soup

[Eddieb]

So the DR has had an oil & filter change today, a very black and thin 2 litres of oil was removed and replaced with nice fresh stuff.

While I was in there a magnetic sump plug also went in so next time I can see if anythings coming adrift.

Fitting the bash plate struck a snag in that the plate is fouling on the end of the engine mounting bolt on the right hand side. Nothing spacing the opposite side of the bolt out with a few washers won't fix but I don't have the right washers here today.

Speaking of which, does that front lower engine mount have any washers on either end as stock? mine doesn't have any at all. The bash plate I just removed bolted on there so by default acted as a washer on each end.

[Eddieb]

Just done my first solo tyre change on the DR, a new knobbly now adorns the front wheel. Thanks Jatz for the training session when I was in Mot, some of it must have rubbed off.

A question for the experts though, the tyre looks like it is seated on the rim properly but the bead didn't 'pop'. I took it down to the garage and pumped it up to 55psi but still no pop, I wasn't game to go any higher. If it hasn't popped does it mean it's still not seated properly?

[dino3310]

i change my front twice a week and ive never poped a bead in, i change it pump it up and ride never had any probs

[bart]

I've hardly ever heard them 'pop'. I think that's more with tubeless tyres, which have a tighter bead.

Now, tell us how you get on changing the back tyre?

[Aslan]

I've hardly ever heard them 'pop'. I think that's more with tubeless tyres, which have a tighter bead.

Now, tell us how you get on changing the back tyre?

What Bart & Dino said Eddie - now the rear tyre that's a different story - PM me if you want an intro to a good mechanic who among other things I use to change my tyres - cheers S

[Eddieb]

I've hardly ever heard them 'pop'. I think that's more with tubeless tyres, which have a tighter bead.

Now, tell us how you get on changing the back tyre?

I haven't decided if I have enough time and swear words in my vocabulary to attempt a rear tyre change on my own yet. I have decided I need another tyre lever though, having a 3rd would make things a little easier.