Any long distance tips? Riding from Wellington to Auckland and back this week

[sinfull]

1. More acceleration ... and it's geard up ??? (that he would know)

How ? The gearing change was done before he bought it, so he dosent really know it has more acceleration than a standard bike .....

2. Only been 115-120 ... that would be on the assumption there is no speedo error. (Usually read low)
3. 140 from a bike with "normal' gearing would give it 115 kms/hr. One big jump in increased speed ... is it a turbo ??? )

the speedo error is something we wont know unless he goes through a trap at 120 lol

but if you read the bit you quoted him on, he states that the old owner told him 140 but he aint reached those speeds yet, it may well do that speed which seeing a standard bike with standard gearing only does 115 ! If he clarifies that he still has more speed/power left at 115 it's geared up !

Shit he's asking advise on riding to auckland lol be lucky if he's owned it a month !

[mossy1200]

http://gearingcommander.com/ On a completely tech crazy side note, you guys seen this ?

yeah but i think issue is 17hp(factory claimed so at crank),140kg bike plus 12 for fuel oil plus rider at 6foot3 prob 80kg plus even if thin(Im 90kg medium/thinish kinda ok maybe not as good as used to be).Possible that factory gear doesnt have the grunt to pull past 115 and geared down maybe(8% just a guess)still only restricted by the avaliable power so same result but wasting fuel doing so.

edit( i think that bikes only ever seeing 140 true speed down a hill with a 40kg jockey in spandex suit farting curry juice).

[FJRider]

So we can say the guy that sold it was fulla poo

If the bike is over reving to do 100km idd think changing ratio before said trip to stock would be vital for engine protection alone.

140 kms/hr is possible ... but a fucking steep hill/strong tail wind might be required.

Over reving in top ... on a 250, is not usally an issue ... even one that is geared down.

[sinfull]

yeah but i think issue is 17hp(factory claimed so at crank),140kg bike plus 12 for fuel oil plus rider at 6foot3 prob 80kg plus even if thin(Im 90kg medium/thinish kinda ok maybe not as good as used to be).Possible that factory gear doesnt have the grunt to pull past 115 and geared down maybe(8% just a guess)still only restricted by the avaliable power so same result but wasting fuel doing so.

edit( i think that bikes only ever seeing 140 true speed down a hill with a 40kg jockey in spandex suit farting curry juice).

Which could be a good argument lol the old owner might have been a 50 kilo asian who rode in shorts and t shirt tucked under the bars and made it to 140 clicks

But i still feel the OP was inferring the guy told him there had been a sprocket change to get more top speed ! Geared up ! Which if this does turn out to be the case, where the hell is the gas going ?

[mossy1200]

Which could be a good argument lol the old owner might have been a 50 kilo asian who rode in shorts and t shirt tucked under the bars and made it to 140 clicks

But i still feel the OP was inferring the guy told him there had been a sprocket change to get more top speed ! Geared up ! Which if this does turn out to be the case, where the hell is the gas going ?

remember he claimed acceleration/speed which could be determined ability to accelerate faster or ability to accelerate faster and travel faster(seems not to be possible with named bike(unless factory gearing is a real mess))but due to loss in fuel economy im thinking its the first but everything relies on accuracy of claims and state of tune and what acceleration/speed means.

[crystalball]

Dont forget your wallet.

[mossy1200]

140 kms/hr is possible ... but a fucking steep hill/strong tail wind might be required.

Over reving in top ... on a 250, is not usally an issue ... even one that is geared down.

Yes but new owner confirms 110-120 on clock so 100-110 with some to go but we dont know if thats close to redline or lower than stock revs yet(could be either way).What we do know is that sitting close to redline on a 2000km plus adventure causes tooth decay.

[FJRider]

Yes but new owner confirms 110-120 on clock so 100-110 with some to go but we dont know if thats close to redline or lower than stock revs yet(could be either way).What we do know is that sitting close to redline on a 2000km plus adventure causes tooth decay.

Aside from the fact ... that the routes he was looking at doing ... on a 250 ... would be difficult to keep that speeds to on larger bikes.

Personally ... I think it would (WILL) be a very long day on the Keeway ... Wellington-Auckland ... whatever the route.

[mossy1200]

Aside from the fact ... that the routes he was looking at doing ... on a 250 ... would be difficult to keep that speeds to on larger bikes.

Personally ... I think it would (WILL) be a very long day on the Keeway ... Wellington-Auckland ... whatever the route.

Agree idd do Taupo and stay at the backpackers there.Last time i did that they locked my bike in a storage shed for the night.If you going to do big trip 400km a day is ideal.it must be 650-700 to Auckland idd say.

[Gremlin]

Back to long distance riding tips.

Look after yourself:
1. Stay away from coffee, tea and alcohol. They are diuretics, which means they de-hydrate you.
2. Keep your fluid intake up to keep you hydrated. If you don't feel like a toilet stop at frequent intervals you're not drinking nearly enough.
3. Keep up the energy intake. Riding takes a lot of energy. While the act of riding can feel like an appetite suppressant, you must keep eating to get the energy you need.
4. Get enough sleep. Should be self-explanatory, but your body needs rest and energy.
5. Make sure you're dressed properly. Feeling a little cold for 100-200km isn't too bad. Trying to be a bit cold for 500+km is dangerous. Your body will use up energy trying to keep warm, you won't be able to concentrate properly etc.

Look after the bike:
1. Make sure consumables such as chain, sprockets, tyres, brake pads etc are in good condition. Last thing you want is to break down in the middle of nowhere
2. Before long trips of thousands of km the bike usually has a dealer service to make sure everything is in tip top shape
3. Carry spares of things you might break, such as light bulbs (especially if you're going to ride at night)
4. Carry a puncture repair kit and more importantly, know how to use it. Again, you're in the middle of nowhere and have to be self-sufficient

Equipment:
1. It's quite possible you're going to ride through a lot of different conditions, or even riding in and out of the same system so you have to have all the gear
2. Plan for hot and dry and cold and wet. Winter and summer gloves, wet weather gear and so on
3. Make sure your mobile is charged, as you may need to call for help
4. I carry a lot of stuff now, but some basics: Tie downs, tape, zip ties, tools, personal locator beacon (for emergencies), air compressor (for tyres) and quite a bit of gear.

Riding:
1. Keep a relaxed mental state. As stated, riding fast uses up a lot of energy
2. Know your route and your stops (esp fuel). It helps make the trip more enjoyable (unless it's more fun getting lost and discovering new roads)
3. Last but not least, remember to stop for other bikers, to make sure they're OK.

[nzspokes]

Back to long distance riding tips.

Look after yourself:
1. Stay away from coffee, tea and alcohol. They are diuretics, which means they de-hydrate you.
2. Keep your fluid intake up to keep you hydrated. If you don't feel like a toilet stop at frequent intervals you're not drinking nearly enough.
3. Keep up the energy intake. Riding takes a lot of energy. While the act of riding can feel like an appetite suppressant, you must keep eating to get the energy you need.
4. Get enough sleep. Should be self-explanatory, but your body needs rest and energy.
5. Make sure you're dressed properly. Feeling a little cold for 100-200km isn't too bad. Trying to be a bit cold for 500+km is dangerous. Your body will use up energy trying to keep warm, you won't be able to concentrate properly etc.

Look after the bike:
1. Make sure consumables such as chain, sprockets, tyres, brake pads etc are in good condition. Last thing you want is to break down in the middle of nowhere
2. Before long trips of thousands of km the bike usually has a dealer service to make sure everything is in tip top shape
3. Carry spares of things you might break, such as light bulbs (especially if you're going to ride at night)
4. Carry a puncture repair kit and more importantly, know how to use it. Again, you're in the middle of nowhere and have to be self-sufficient

Equipment:
1. It's quite possible you're going to ride through a lot of different conditions, or even riding in and out of the same system so you have to have all the gear
2. Plan for hot and dry and cold and wet. Winter and summer gloves, wet weather gear and so on
3. Make sure your mobile is charged, as you may need to call for help
4. I carry a lot of stuff now, but some basics: Tie downs, tape, zip ties, tools, personal locator beacon (for emergencies), air compressor (for tyres) and quite a bit of gear.

Riding:
1. Keep a relaxed mental state. As stated, riding fast uses up a lot of energy
2. Know your route and your stops (esp fuel). It helps make the trip more enjoyable (unless it's more fun getting lost and discovering new roads)
3. Last but not least, remember to stop for other bikers, to make sure they're OK.

Better still talk Gremlin into coming with you so you dont need to carry anything.

[Gremlin]

Better still talk Gremlin into coming with you so you dont need to carry anything.

Yeah, need to get them zip ties from ya... the learners have been tapping into my supplies on the last couple of rides

[nzspokes]

Yeah, need to get them zip ties from ya... the learners have been tapping into my supplies on the last couple of rides

No worries. Pop out to Sass sometime.

[Rajol]

Wow thanks so much for all the advice

I've written it all down on a checklist

Also pmed mossy1220 to take him up on his offer of checking out my bike before I go

Thanks all

[george formby]

Padded cycle shorts under your riding gear helps with numb-bum-itis on the longer rides. Even the most comfy seat gets painful if you've been in the saddle for a few straight hours.

True, they are a bit more comfortabler, I tried them on a high mileage European jaunt. Ming like a thousand arseholes at the end of the day, though.

I found a good way to restore the circulation to the numbous buttockous at the weekend. The landscaping at a gas station was made up of smooth round river pebbles & in a eureka! moment I sat down on them & squirmed like a dog with worms, it felt great. I ended up doing a full body squirm to make my back feel better too. Worked a treat & I felt fine for almost the rest of the trip.

So, look out for nice round pebbles when you start to ache.